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LexLuthor400

Stuck Nut On Power Steering Mount Help!

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I am currently in the process of replacing my alternator due to my power steering pump leaking on it and ruining it. So everything has been going somewhat smooth until today. I am trying to remove the nut that is on top, and in front of the PS pump so that it will slide forward. HOWEVER, for some reason this nut is on WAY too tight. According to the service manual its should only be 32ft/lbs, but today I tried soaking it in penetrating oil and then hitting it with a torque wrench that is close to 3' long, yet I get nothing. I have tried tapping it loose but nothing. I am afraid that if I twist any harder that the bolt will snap, it seriously is VERY tight. Almost as though Godzilla himself tightened the bolt on my car. It is so tight that when the entire socket (craftsman, so it fits perfect) was over the nut, and torque was being applied, it slightly started to strip the nut! I don't know what to do! I have never had this problem before.

Have you guys experienced these problems, and if so, how were you able to get it off. This has been extremely frustrating as I need a car, and this bolt has been holding me up now for two days.

Thank you in advance,

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Have you tried a torch? Heat the fastener for a minute, let it cool (make sure you do), apply some penetrating oil and let it 'marinate' for a few minutes. Tap it with a hammer, it should come off now.

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Have you tried a torch? Heat the fastener for a minute, let it cool (make sure you do), apply some penetrating oil and let it 'marinate' for a few minutes. Tap it with a hammer, it should come off now.

I would try a torch, however the nut itself is impossible to reach with anything but a socket. In the diagram below it is the nut that is on the front of the pump on the top right (43(440,32)). It is almost impossible to reach with anything other than a socket, because you have to go trough the holes in the PS pump pulley to reach it.

This is just crazy, I really don't know how a nut could freeze itself this tight. I am pretty sure I applied close to 150Ft/lbs of torque to it after tapping with a hammer and it won't budge, even with penetrating oil having been soaking in there for the past 48 hours now! Anymore pressure and I am sure the bolt would snap, this has to be the tightest nut I have ever encountered EVER!

sr-25.pdf

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Going 'nuts' part II...

You can try a soldering iron/gun. Some types get extremely hot. When you bend or shape the tip a little, you might have just enough space to reach the nut.

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how about one of those micro pencil sized blow torches that they use for soldering ,will that fit in there? Do you have the pulley off already? If not maybe removing the pulley will give you more room to work in and get a torch in there??

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The nuts can be really tight. Many times they have no lock washers and they just stick after all these years.

You need a six point 1/2 inch drive socket. You may have to grind the "lead in" angle off the end of the socket so the entire hex face contacts the nut. Use only a good quality socket too. Remove the pulley for sure and get good access. Then go for it. 150ft. lbs. is just a bit more than a wheel nut - no big deal. Use what is needed with a breaker bar. Just do your preparation so you don't round the nut off - then you'll be cutting it off.

It will let go with a bang. Be ready.

SRK

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Going 'nuts' part II...

You can try a soldering iron/gun. Some types get extremely hot. When you bend or shape the tip a little, you might have just enough space to reach the nut.

"Going 'nuts' part II" is so true! I am going to wait and try a tool called a "nutcracker" later this weekend when my uncle comes over this weekend. He said that works well for him. I am going to replace the nut anyways so might as well cut if off.

Thank you guys for all your quick replies its good to know there are others out there willing to lend a few brain cells to my problem.

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The nuts can be really tight. Many times they have no lock washers and they just stick after all these years.

You need a six point 1/2 inch drive socket. You may have to grind the "lead in" angle off the end of the socket so the entire hex face contacts the nut. Use only a good quality socket too. Remove the pulley for sure and get good access. Then go for it. 150ft. lbs. is just a bit more than a wheel nut - no big deal. Use what is needed with a breaker bar. Just do your preparation so you don't round the nut off - then you'll be cutting it off.

It will let go with a bang. Be ready.

SRK

Unfortunately I already tried soaking it in penetrating oil for two days and then using a 6 point 14mm socket with a ratchet arm that is 3' long, I tapped it with a hammer and then tried to pull, but to no avail. In all my years of taking apart cars and misc. engines, THIS bolt has to be thee tightest/most stuck one I have ever encountered. I swear its ALWAYS one bolt that gives me a headache, everytime!

This is my only gripe about my Lexus: Why are there 5 huge bolts holding the power-steering pump to the engine? Why? And why can't you remove an alternator without removing the intake, the brake assembly, the power steering pump, and the oil cooler lines? On every other Toyota I have owned, an alternator job would take about 10 minutes. Other than that I absolutely love my Lexus, it has been great and after 12 years this the FIRST repair I am making, so I guess I can't complain TOO much.

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Real mechanics don't use penetrating oil. What, you tell Mrs. Smith "Mrs. Smith your car isn't ready, we're waiting two days for the oil to soak in." I don't think so.

Make sure the socket won't round the nut. Then yank on the damn thing until either the nut breaks loose, or the stud unwinds from the head. Either event is ok. Worrying about what philosophy Lexus used in determining the number of fasteners won't help either. But it is to reduce noise-vibration-harmonics or NVH as the industry calls it.

Get back to work :cheers:

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Real mechanics don't use penetrating oil. What, you tell Mrs. Smith "Mrs. Smith your car isn't ready, we're waiting two days for the oil to soak in." I don't think so.

Make sure the socket won't round the nut. Then yank on the damn thing until either the nut breaks loose, or the stud unwinds from the head. Either event is ok. Worrying about what philosophy Lexus used in determining the number of fasteners won't help either. But it is to reduce noise-vibration-harmonics or NVH as the industry calls it.

Get back to work :cheers:

Apparently you failed to read any of my previous posts.

I have already used a 6 point 14mm Craftsman socket that fits perfect on the nut with no play whatsoever, then I attached a 3' long arm to my ratchet and hammered and pulled as hard as possible with no results, other than the nut wanting to round. SO NO, "yanking" it is not going to do anything. I have always used penetrating oil with great results, so why not try it again, right? That is what its for!

I am not worrying about their philosophy, I was simply asking a reasonable question as to why it is necessary to have five huge bolts holding such a relatively small pump.

As far as reducing vibration, that doesn't make sense because vibration (what little it has) comes from the V8 engine's 90 degree setup, so attaching something so firmly to the engine is not going to reduce vibration, because it is held against something which produces the vibration. Your explanation doesn't hold either when you consider that the alternator has much more rotational mass which may cause vibration, yet it only has two bolts holding it in place.

I know I am not a "real" mechanic, however I have always been very good at repairing engines and cars. I did my first engine rebuild on a 50cc quad when I was 7, by myself.

I am not a newbie to fixing cars, I posted on here because I have a valid and serious problem removing this nut, it is the tightest, most stuck nut I have EVER encountered. I Intended to hear some other ideas as to how to remove this nut from other Lexus owners who may have had the same problem with this exact nut, but I guess that was too much for you to handle.

Thanks for your help though!

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I know it's pretty tight in there where you are working but if you have room to slip a long piece of pipe over your 3' breaker bar. I had a bolt on a caliper stick like that and my breaker bar left me sweating and annoyed. I looked around a found a piece of fence pipe and let me tell you, 3 feet might not do it but 6' did.

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I know it's pretty tight in there where you are working but if you have room to slip a long piece of pipe over your 3' breaker bar. I had a bolt on a caliper stick like that and my breaker bar left me sweating and annoyed. I looked around a found a piece of fence pipe and let me tell you, 3 feet might not do it but 6' did.

Yeah good idea I ll have to try that, thanks

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Yeah, try that.

Remember to yank on it.

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Oh yeah, put a long pole on a breaker bar with a 6 point nad you will either break it loos, or just plain break it. In the event it breaks, as you stated earlier, "why are there 5 bolts" I wouldn't worry if one was missing. As SRK said, Yank on it.

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Oh yeah, put a long pole on a breaker bar with a 6 point nad you will either break it loos, or just plain break it. In the event it breaks, as you stated earlier, "why are there 5 bolts" I wouldn't worry if one was missing. As SRK said, Yank on it.

YES ITS FINALLY OFF! Thank God thats over with, I ended up having to beat it with a hammer for like 15 minutes and then pulled as hard as I could (think I tore a muscle in my arm) and viola it came off! Everything else went back in smoothly and the car is running great, however now I am trying to bleed the brakes (since I had to take the brake actuator out) and I am getting brake fluid that is very aerated. It almost looks like milk, do you think that would be normal or what. My pedal is getting firmer and firmer, but the fluid is still coming out very aerated. Also when I go to bleed the brake actuator, at first it was spitting bubbles and fluid, but now it seems like its sucks fluid back in when the pedal is to the floor and I open the bleeder screw. What might that mean?

Thanks guys for the insight! Now I can get back to enjoying driving my Lexus. Thank God they are reliable, I don't think I could work on this thing much more than a few times without losing my mind or limbs lol!

P.S Tell SRK the penetrating oil was the determining factor in getting it off, because it didn't budge before, and after it came right off!

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