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lobotomyxx

Leakdown Results On Jdm Swap -- Need Advice Asap

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I recently started the process of a JDM TT 2j swap for my SC300. Did a ton of research, contacted people who have bought from various sellers, found a seller on eBay 'jdm_planet' who had good things said of them. Spoke with them, guy was straight and confident, I went with them. The motor arrived absolutely clean, couldn't have been happier. Leakdown test, however . . .

#1- 42%

#2- 23%

#3- 55%

#4- 49%

#5- 35%

#6- 52%

I know 10% or less is great, get around 20% you consider rebuild -- most leakage is intake side, some exhaust. I've heard back and forth on this -- needs rebuilding, machining, major overhaul, etc, do not install it, its *BLEEP*.

I have also heard its what I should expect, it is a used, turbo motor. It will run fine, and eventually is recommended to rebuild for more power / longer life. Currently everything is at the shop waiting to go, and my seller is not interested in giving me my money back.

The latter opinion is also backed by a friend who has done 10 different JDM swaps - RB's, SR20's, 2j's - said he has seen it most of the time, even his own car (240 w/ sr20 putting out 380whp on 17psi) and our friend Denis' (Skyline, rb25 putting out 430whp @??psi)

So do I go forward with this, have something to have some fun with (no hardcore racing), rebuild during the winter? Do I say the engine is *BLEEP* and make sure I get money back to go with something else?

anyone with experience, or knowledge, its very much appreciated, and days are ticking on the return period (lol)

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So are your leaks from the valves or the cylinder/rings? If it's valves, then I would do a full valve job. You don't need to angle, port and polish, but just a good head rebuild. These motors are known for cracking landings. The stock 2JZ heads flow pretty good stock anyway. And seeing as your turbo, then no titatanium valves either. So it shouldn't be any hassle to get this done. If it's a cylinder/ piston/ ring issue, then I would say either return the motor or do the rebuild first then. #'s 3 and 6 are too low to ignore. Just think about all the work you have ahead of you.......knowing this problem is right around the corner when your done, and could end up costing you alot more money.

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So are your leaks from the valves or the cylinder/rings? If it's valves, then I would do a full valve job. You don't need to angle, port and polish, but just a good head rebuild. These motors are known for cracking landings. The stock 2JZ heads flow pretty good stock anyway. And seeing as your turbo, then no titatanium valves either. So it shouldn't be any hassle to get this done. If it's a cylinder/ piston/ ring issue, then I would say either return the motor or do the rebuild first then. #'s 3 and 6 are too low to ignore. Just think about all the work you have ahead of you.......knowing this problem is right around the corner when your done, and could end up costing you alot more money.

mechanics diagnosis is bad valves, possible bad rings, possible rust in cylinders -- seller later admits 'motor sat 2 years or so, there might be rust, i dont know, start it up and i'll consider the quality.'

in short, the shop is scca / nasa / nhra certified, they work on Supra's, Porsche, BMW, drag cars . . . even have 2 brand new GTR's they are stripping, caging and rebuilding for a few customers -- they don't screw around, are one of the highest authorities and professional opinions when it comes to cars / motors . . . I trust when they say the motor isn't good, or their professional diagnosis of what tear-down / rebuild is necessary.

dispute has been filed with eBay and PayPal, we'll see what happens . . .

I really wish I had $10g's for a rebuild, but then I'd pry do that with my n/a motor, or bought a brand new 2J to *BLEEP* with . . . don't buy from 'jdm_planet', its a front for the old Osaka motors that *BLEEP*ed so many people, and they hide their tracks well.

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Well, sorry about all your trouble. Can I ask how much you paid for it? And what all did you get?

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Well, sorry about all your trouble. Can I ask how much you paid for it? And what all did you get?

$1800, free shipping; motor, auto trans, turbos, turbo intake and exhaust manifolds, ecu, uncut harness (was cut), ignitor, plugs and wires . . . complete swap, ready to go.

i need someone who can give me a good lead on a better motor, if anyone knows anything? TT motor, if not trans my current should work, but I'd rather do a full swap.

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