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mrlexluter2

White Bluish Smoke After Car Sits Overnight

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:blink::huh::blink:

if anyone reads this thread have any ideas please let me in :geek: I got a 94 es-300 over 210 th. on the dash had a motor put in at 160 th. on the dash they did the heads i know for sure but i dont thik they did the rings. The thing is after i ran it at 65 MPH for few minutes and let the car sit for bout 5-7 hrs or more and I start it this big cloud of look like grey blue smoke bust out for like 5 secs or more then it clears up. I check around bout this issue and most told me it's my value guide seals :unsure: or could be my rings. Some suggest I use heavier oil I use what the manuel say and that's 5w 30 find out that's for cars under 100 th. so now I just switch to 10w30 and i added some oil detergine it still smokes after start. Should i keep doing this and wait a while longer or use 30w I dont want to overhaul the engine again :cries: What GURU on here can give me some help?....please it's my LEX LUTHER it's embrarrasing :angry: to start such a car ladies looking at me and car be smoking, just kill a chance of a date like that but really guys need some help on this :( :(

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It's your valves, but if you think it may be the rings, then you'll need to do a leak down test to find out for sure. Rings usually have other symptoms to go along with the smoke though.

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Its been a few years since I've had the same situation, but the fix was new valve guide seals.

First thing in the morning at startup you get a cloud of oil smoke that disappears within 30 seconds or so. You don't see smoke all day as long as you're driving the car, but park it for three or four hours and there is another puff of oil smoke at startup. As the problem progresses you will get more and more smoke, sometimes you'll not be able to see the car at startup. And then you'll be able to see more and more smoke, even while driving.

In my case the valve guides had aged to the point where they were allowing oil from the valve train to creep down the valve stems and get burned in the cylinder. The fix is to pull the valve covers, pull the sparkplugs, and turn the crank until all the valves on a particular cylinder are closed. Then a special air fitting is threaded into the sparkplug hole and the cylinder pressurized to 150 lbs or so (to keep the valves closed and prevent them from falling into the cylinder). The valve springs would each be removed, the old valve guide seal removed and a new one replaced.

The cost was far more labour than parts, but it solved my problem. Good Luck!

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I did valve guide seals on a 1986 ford ranger V6 a few years back and it took me about 12 hours. Had to use a tool to connect my air compressor to the spark plug hole and keep the cylinder under pressure so the seals could be removed and replaced.

All i can say is the job was a huge pain in the !Removed!.

the way to tell if it is the rings or the valve guide seals is simple. all you need is some oil and a compression checker.

first check the compression in each cylinder and write it down. next add about 3 cap fulls of oil to each cylinder right before you check the compression again. if the number go way up its your rings that have gone bad. if they do not go up then its your valve guide seals.

hope this helps

Matt

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:) :) B)

Ha man thanks for the info...needed some other opinions on this; which give me the same idea i

had known and gotten from at lease, one other source who said the same as yall did on here. got to tear it down

and rebuild with new seals but :wacko: trying to see is it possible to avoid this ' pain in the azz :(

I going to try a few things before i act on this advice that seem to be the only real way to solve this.

Going to continue using heavier oil, also just tried this 'RESTORE', have any one ever tried this? :huh: I

read some where that it did stop or at lease slowed down oil consumption so i just poured in some with this

oil change i just did so i will keep this thread inform on what ended up happening so give me a lexus pray

to the TOYOTA GOD"S and hope i dont have to do this 'tear down' man i hope i dont have to :cries:

Matt

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:whistles: well bout week or so have pass and the white bluish smoke seems to lighten up now after every start it still smokes but the smoke is much lighter then it was before after i added that restore after i change the oil again i will add little more plus some ring sealer and give it couple of weeks to check my oil and see is this kinda working wish me luck :whistles: :geek::geek: as i will keep this thread inform and hope to avoid any major repairs :cries: but she still runs like a lex luther should

post-113155-127171491627_thumb.jpg

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:whistles: well bout week or so have pass and the white bluish smoke seems to lighten up now after every start it still smokes but the smoke is much lighter then it was before after i added that restore after i change the oil again i will add little more plus some ring sealer and give it couple of weeks to check my oil and see is this kinda working wish me luck :whistles: :geek::geek: as i will keep this thread inform and hope to avoid any major repairs :cries: but she still runs like a lex luther should

My 92 has done this intermittently for 10 years/100k miles. It still passes emissions, and barely burns any oil.

You might not need to do anything right away.

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I know on my LS400 I had the same issue when some vacuum switch on the power steering pump was allowing PS fluid (Dex) to enter the intake manifold. I disconnected the lines and plugged them and the intake and it stopped. The smoke wasn't real blue, more of a whitish color. The only other thing that makes white smoke is water and unless you have a cracked or failing head gasket, that isn't water. Check your PS fluid level and see if it is low. I don't know if the ES models even use this feature but it has something to do with increasing the idle when the steering wheel is turned to lock. Worth consideration since the other options listed were way more expensive.

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