SLORICK Posted March 17, 2010 Posted March 17, 2010 It's easy, don't need pics. Use socket wrench to turn serpentine belt counterclockwise at tensioner to get some slack. Pull serpentine belt off topside of idler pulley and put it underneath idler pulley, and actually try to tuck it up inbetween engine block and idler pulley. Then close your engine hood. Then, crank engine a few seconds, and belt should flip that idler pulley right off. Dont even need to start the engine. You can tell when the job is done by hearing a big thud, and seeing the dent pushing out on your engine hood. Turn your key off immediately after hearing the thud, or if the engine starts. You just want to crank it a second or two. Easier than using a puller. For the dent on your hood, just whack it back down with a hammer, then spray it with white Rust-Oleum spray paint, or the color that matches your car color.
fsuguy Posted March 18, 2010 Posted March 18, 2010 pics would be nice hi flipstyle808, The idler pulley is at the top right of the engine (if you are looking at it from the front of the car). Using either a long breaker bar on the belt tensioner pulley bolt, take the pressure off the serpentine belt - this is the belt that drives your alternator, water pump, power steering and fan, etc. Don't horse anything - you should not have to push too hard to know if you are taking the tension off the belt! Once you do that, slip the belt off the tensioner pulley and slowly let the pressure off the belt tensioner pulley. Next remove the belt off the idler pulley and using correct sized socket with the breaker bar or a hefty wrench, remove the idler pulley bolt. If the idler pulley is really shot to bits, it may come off in pieces; if not, there should be one center bolt and a largish washer. Don't lose the washer or bolt since your new part does not come with those (mine didn't!). Replace everything in the same order. Make sure you follow the torque specifications for the bolt when replacing it - sorry I don't have that info with me at the moment. HTH :) Mike
SLORICK Posted March 18, 2010 Posted March 18, 2010 Yeah, flipstyle808, , , what Mike said. You know what "TORQUING A BOLT" is, doncha? . . . That's when you get it tighter than hell, then give it a half more turn. :D
curiousB Posted March 18, 2010 Posted March 18, 2010 Yeah, flipstyle808, , , what Mike said.You know what "TORQUING A BOLT" is, doncha? . . . That's when you get it tighter than hell, then give it a half more turn. :D Why is sarcasm the lowest form of wit? Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit since its aim is to belittle or hurt someone, and to laugh at their expense; we associate the word "cutting" with it. On the other hand, true wit associates with the word "levity", and boosts everyone's spirits, being aimed at an action, a happening or an attitude.
Elisa Hickman Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 When driving home my serpentine belt broke due to the idle pulley siezing... Can I do this replacement myself with the help of a retired mechanic?? or is it very difficult... What tool is used to remove the Idle pully? is it as simple as the above instructions.. anyhelp would be appreciated
landar Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 When driving home my serpentine belt broke due to the idle pulley siezing... Can I do this replacement myself with the help of a retired mechanic?? or is it very difficult... What tool is used to remove the Idle pully? is it as simple as the above instructions.. anyhelp would be appreciated Welcome to the club, Elisa! The answer is yes, with the help of a mechanic you can get it replaced. It is really not all that difficult. You will need to determine if the tensioner pulley seized or the fan bracket pulley. Again, welcome.
vissine Posted June 22, 2014 Posted June 22, 2014 It's easy, don't need pics. Use socket wrench to turn serpentine belt counterclockwise at tensioner to get some slack. Pull serpentine belt off topside of idler pulley and put it underneath idler pulley, and actually try to tuck it up inbetween engine block and idler pulley. Then close your engine hood. Then, crank engine a few seconds, and belt should flip that idler pulley right off. Dont even need to start the engine. You can tell when the job is done by hearing a big thud, and seeing the dent pushing out on your engine hood. Turn your key off immediately after hearing the thud, or if the engine starts. You just want to crank it a second or two. Easier than using a puller. For the dent on your hood, just whack it back down with a hammer, then spray it with white Rust-Oleum spray paint, or the color that matches your car color. Did anyone actually follow this advice?
landar Posted June 22, 2014 Posted June 22, 2014 Did anyone actually follow this advice? I think (hope?) that most people would realize the absolute ludicrous nature of the advice and quickly dismiss it. The idler pulley is shown in step 9 in the lexls timing tutorial. You do not want (or need) to do everything mentioned just to get to the pulley. But it gives a good idea of what it will take. If you need to replace the fan bracket assembly pulley, you would look at step 20. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html
vissine Posted June 22, 2014 Posted June 22, 2014 The idler pulley is shown in step 9 in the lexls timing tutorial. You do not want (or need) to do everything mentioned just to get to the pulley. But it gives a good idea of what it will take. If you need to replace the fan bracket assembly pulley, you would look at step 20. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html I am going to replace both tensioner and idler pulleys. Idler pulley is pretty straight forward, but I am not familiar with tensioner pulley. Should I remove the assembly or just unbolt the bold that hold the tensioner pullley?
landar Posted June 22, 2014 Posted June 22, 2014 It all depends...I would probably replace the entire tensioner assembly with pulley because then you are also getting new spring tension along with new pulley bearing/bushing. Quite honestly, I am not real familiar with the tensioner assembly on the LS but it looks like it has a Left hand thread, meaning you rotate the bolt CCW to tighten and CW to loosen. But verify that before you try. The reason I say that is because you rotate the bolt CCW to loosen the tension which is usually the way to also tighten the bolt. But again, I would recommend to replace the entire tensioner assembly and be done with it.
vissine Posted June 22, 2014 Posted June 22, 2014 I installed the idler pulley. But I am not sure i installed it correctly. Can someone verify if my drawing is correct? Top side: Bolt -- washer -- pulley --> engine. Or the pulley is upside down? My problem is when I shake the pulley, I feel like there is something wrong with its bearing.
vissine Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 It all depends...I would probably replace the entire tensioner assembly with pulley because then you are also getting new spring tension along with new pulley bearing/bushing. Quite honestly, I am not real familiar with the tensioner assembly on the LS but it looks like it has a Left hand thread, meaning you rotate the bolt CCW to tighten and CW to loosen. But verify that before you try. The reason I say that is because you rotate the bolt CCW to loosen the tension which is usually the way to also tighten the bolt. But again, I would recommend to replace the entire tensioner assembly and be done with it. Thanks for the information! With the cost difference and time consume, I decided to replace the tensioner pulley ($30) instead of the whole assembly ($250). You were right, I had to turn counterclockwise to open. Apply light force for a 14 mm head is good enough. It took me less than 10 minutes. I start the car and notice that the noise that has bothered me for quite a few months is now gone. But, I need to drive a few days to be sure.
steve2006 Posted July 3, 2014 Posted July 3, 2014 I installed the idler pulley. But I am not sure i installed it correctly. Can someone verify if my drawing is correct? Top side: Bolt -- washer -- pulley --> engine. Or the pulley is upside down? My problem is when I shake the pulley, I feel like there is something wrong with its bearing. Your diagram is correct,the side from where you drift out the old bearing faces the engine.
sha4000 Posted July 4, 2014 Posted July 4, 2014 I have to change the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley also. I get that annoying noise in the front and I changed the fan bracket which helped alot but it's still there.
vissine Posted July 7, 2014 Posted July 7, 2014 I installed the idler pulley. But I am not sure i installed it correctly. Can someone verify if my drawing is correct? Top side: Bolt -- washer -- pulley --> engine. Or the pulley is upside down? My problem is when I shake the pulley, I feel like there is something wrong with its bearing. Your diagram is correct,the side from where you drift out the old bearing faces the engine. Thanks steve2006, I feel the pulley is wobbling although I torque it correctly.
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