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Posted

i have yoko avids and by my next oil change, 20k miles i have to have all four replaced agian! i paid like 450 for the tires alone. plus 100 for another the alignment. i have them filled w nitrogen which i do not reccommend on the luxury suspension. you feel too much for my old lemoned 07 passat w a turbo it was great! nitrogen does give you a better grip i can say that. Im *BLEEP*ed they should prorate my alignment too since i have to pay for an extra one.

any who my new purchase not even a year and a half later will be prorated by the warranty on the mileage on the tire. they were 45k i think, would be sweet if they were 60k! im thinking kumo but i do not know the specifics of the manufacturers and brands. i know i would rather have a touring tire than a sport hybrid like the avids or the estacy? by kumo. i really want michelins but they are soo expensive im really leaning to cheaper "jap" brands i have read really bad water reviews about bridgestone/firestone turanza and potenza for this car. i really didnt have a problem w the handling just the wear. im in fl so any good rain tires would be great 215/60/16


Posted

I would highly suggest Goodyear Assurance Triple Treds if long mileage & excellent wet weather performace is at the top of your list.

Touring tires are good but generally they do not have the treadlife ratings of a premium all season...the ES is no sports sedan to begin with & there are many choices to consider in the 215 60 16 size. I have never been a fan of Kumho's personally.

Another tire to consider is the Toyo VERSADO LX in V speed rated.

:cheers:

Posted
i have yoko avids and by my next oil change, 20k miles i have to have all four replaced agian! i paid like 450 for the tires alone. plus 100 for another the alignment. i have them filled w nitrogen which i do not reccommend on the luxury suspension. you feel too much for my old lemoned 07 passat w a turbo it was great! nitrogen does give you a better grip i can say that. Im *BLEEP*ed they should prorate my alignment too since i have to pay for an extra one.

Actually Nitrogen doesn't do any of those things. It doesn't change the ride and it CERTAINLY doesn't do anything for grip! Air is 80% nitrogen already.

I have the Michelin Primacy on mine and they ride fantastic...but they aren't cheap...

Posted
I would highly suggest Goodyear Assurance Triple Treds if long mileage & excellent wet weather performace is at the top of your list.

Touring tires are good but generally they do not have the treadlife ratings of a premium all season...the ES is no sports sedan to begin with & there are many choices to consider in the 215 60 16 size. I have never been a fan of Kumho's personally.

Another tire to consider is the Toyo VERSADO LX in V speed rated.

:cheers:

I put brand new Michelin Destinys on both of my Es300's. (97 &2002) 97 is 15inch....2002 is 215-60-16

They have been excellent, quiet, and so far great in the snow, vast vast improvement over bridgestone potenza.

I was debating between goodyear triple tread, about same price, and were ranked #1 by consumer reports I believe, but the tireplace(manager i've known for 10+years.....was adamant those tries aren't lasting the full mileage, but the desintys were easily going the full 85k miles they are stated for, if not more) his advice might not be scientific, but the man has been in the business his whole life, and has always taken care of my car tires. I believe the destinys 16inch go for about $117 a tire, and costed me about $550 otd, with 4yr warranty too.

Posted

i had a diff type of yokos yk20? but had no issues w those. Oh crap they were all seasons, dah! my warranty is 60k and i got 1/3 of the wear! im probably going to have to get yokos to get the prorate but if so i can shop around cause im not getting scamed into another warranty unless it was simply the type not the brand.

I do have a question is the issue im having not w the brand but the type i got. sport hybrid which is softer rubber wears faster, firmer w nitrogen, and directionals. i was told that yokos are a quality brand so im thinking it might just be my dumb decision for the type i got and firmer w nitro for additional wear.

i agree to disagree on the nitrogen, you can tell he diff at the same 35psi. is it worth the $40 thats the question and depends on your expectaions and priorities? pamplets push wrong reasons to sell not science. its the same drive (firmer more responsive) as running your tires at max pressure only w less stress on sidewalls at 5psi lower. nitro takes up more room than air so the tire is fuller at less pressure. nitro molecule is larger and doesnt excape through the tire as easy maintaining pressure longer. longer tire life refers to internal moisture damage from air to metals w in tire not mileage wear. they should wear the same as 40psi air i havent been through a full set. it helps w gas mileage and wear if you dont pay attention to pressure. My question is if every thing compounded make it safer every day + less damage to the car if you were to get a blowout: 5lbs less stress on the sidewalls, less corrosion on metals, better response of higher psi? Lots of nails, dry rott, and rain in FL, I dont want to reck her and never had to change a tire!

Posted
agree to disagree on the nitrogen. ive had it on 3 sets of tires on 2 cars and could tell the diff like gettng better firmer tires almost. like running you tires at max pressure only w out the stress on the tire cause you run it at 5psi lower. you can kick the tires and tell the diff at the same pressue. it doesnt do crap for milege but i never had to add air on either car (about 60k between them all)! which is where it helps w mileage if you dont pay attention to the air pressure or the symptoms it causes which makes you tires wear faster and uses more gas. might be that they werent great tires in the first place? so mileage it is a load of crap yeah...plus the wrong tire sport hybrid w nitro on a luxury car is a dumb mix.. bouncy

You do in theory have less air loss issues, but thats where any difference on nitrogen ends. I too have had tires with nitrogen...and there is no difference in how the vehicle rides or fuel economy.

In fact at the same pressure nitrogen should ride better because you have less pressure increase with heat.

Your issue was the tires...you can choose to believe that its the nitrogen if you want, but its not true.

m the edit QUEEN! lmfao sometimes im not that quick but i usually catch on! if the nitro makes the tire as firm as 40psi w only 35psi you tires will actually wear out as if 40psi.!

Again...thats not true. 40PSI is 40PSI.

Posted

You do in theory have less air loss issues, but thats where any difference on nitrogen ends. I too have had tires with nitrogen...and there is no difference in how the vehicle rides or fuel economy.

i updated not arguing just want your opinion on safety. if it is safer then its worth it to me. i put the paragraph together better after...

longer tire life refers to internal moisture damage from air to metals w in tire not mileage wear. My question is if every thing compounded make it safer every day + less damage to the car if you were to get a blowout: 5lbs less stress on the sidewalls, less corrosion on metals, better response of higher psi? Lots of nails, dry rott, and rain in FL, I dont want to reck her and never had to change a tire! or is the moisture content bogus too

basically if the inside metal ribbions? are in better condition does it reduce chances of blow out or how much the tire shreds if you do? and if lower pressure of 35 but larger like they would be w 40psi air do they wear at the size of 40psi or the rate of 35psi? or is tire wear by pressure not size? i know the avids are just crappy!

Posted
You do in theory have less air loss issues, but thats where any difference on nitrogen ends. I too have had tires with nitrogen...and there is no difference in how the vehicle rides or fuel economy.

i updated not arguing just want your opinion on safety. if it is safer then its worth it to me. i put the paragraph together better after...

longer tire life refers to internal moisture damage from air to metals w in tire not mileage wear. My question is if every thing compounded make it safer every day + less damage to the car if you were to get a blowout: 5lbs less stress on the sidewalls, less corrosion on metals, better response of higher psi? Lots of nails, dry rott, and rain in FL, I dont want to reck her and never had to change a tire! or is the moisture content bogus too

basically if the inside metal ribbions? are in better condition does it reduce chances of blow out or how much the tire shreds if you do? and if lower pressure of 35 but larger like they would be w 40psi air do they wear at the size of 40psi or the rate of 35psi? or is tire wear by pressure not size? i know the avids are just crappy!

As has been mentioned...nitrogen does not provide any significant benefit than filling your tires with regular air (again about 75 - 80% nitrogen...your in Florida I see...you will not notice the difference compared to someone who puts nitrogen in a northern climate in the winter). Frankly I don't see any significant benefits to using pure nitrogen to inflate your tires...I keep a portable compressor that you plug into your power outlet to 'top up' the pressure on occasion.

What does benefit tires? Maintaining proper air pressure, regular rotations as per the maintenance schedule & proper wheel alignments (I get a 4 wheel alignment with every set of tires I install).

I set all my tires at 33.5 PSI (all seasons & winter sets), I get fantastic fuel economy, even wear & a comfortable ride. IMO, 35 - 40 PSI is too high & that will result in uneven wear or less traction long term.

:cheers:

Posted
i updated not arguing just want your opinion on safety. if it is safer then its worth it to me. i put the paragraph together better after...

longer tire life refers to internal moisture damage from air to metals w in tire not mileage wear. My question is if every thing compounded make it safer every day + less damage to the car if you were to get a blowout: 5lbs less stress on the sidewalls, less corrosion on metals, better response of higher psi? Lots of nails, dry rott, and rain in FL, I dont want to reck her and never had to change a tire! or is the moisture content bogus too

basically if the inside metal ribbions? are in better condition does it reduce chances of blow out or how much the tire shreds if you do? and if lower pressure of 35 but larger like they would be w 40psi air do they wear at the size of 40psi or the rate of 35psi? or is tire wear by pressure not size? i know the avids are just crappy!

In theory the nitrogen is drier, and the theory is that it reduces corrosion on wheels and rot on the rubber. However, when is the last time you read about someone's wheels rusting from the inside out, and remember modern cars have aluminum wheels that cannot rust. When is the last time you had a set of tires rot before they wore out? The answer is never...and the tires are still exposed to air and moisture on the outside...which is where the FL weather will act on them...

You're still operating from the idea that you can run 5lbs less pressure and have the same treadwear when filling with nitrogen and thats not true. Pressure is pressure.

Nitrogen has very few benefits for drivers of passenger cars. Its not going to hurt...but I wouldn't spend one dollar for it.

Posted

i can only tell you how horrible these tires were at optimal 40psi nitro!!! it was like being on eggshells or hourseback. i called to return them on the 30day garantee and had the pilots priced and they were 400$ more so i didnt bother having the energies or primacys priced. I dropped psi to 35 after that i could handle the ride for the $ diff if they went 50K . trust your gut. tax return agian!

my last tires were dry rotting w some use left and by replacement tirme were fisured between the treads... at least those went the mileage. yoke-ur-mama! if wear is based on pressure the only thing you are paying for w nitro is a more "responsive feel of larger tire" at a lower psi wear.... your not saving anything (normal wear) just getting 40$ "better feel" and not having to add air. is there significant wear difference if you run air 33 vs 40? are we talking 2 months vs 10 m?

they cant even tell me a pro-rate for mileage! i have to wait til the next oil change and have them measured so they can send the info to their rep to find out if they will prorate and if i have to get another pair of yokos to get it. im thinking costco (wholesale warehouse) any other good spots? tire kingdom does buy 3 get 1 free, not michelins.

i guess its time to turn the traction of and start peeling out... lol but then i guess im !Removed! myself since i dont want yokos

Posted

First of all, 40PSI is not optimal. Thats WAY too high. Look on the door frame of your car, the optimal PSI is 29, at 40PSI any tire is going to ride like crap on the ES. I air mine to 31 and it rides great and gets great economy really.

my last tires were dry rotting w some use left and by replacement tirme were fisured between the treads... at least those went the mileage. yoke-ur-mama! if wear is based on pressure the only thing you are paying for w nitro is a more "responsive feel of larger tire" at a lower psi wear.... your not saving anything (normal wear) just getting 40$ "better feel" and not having to add air. is there significant wear difference if you run air 33 vs 40? are we talking 2 months vs 10 m?

Again...read what I am saying.

you are not getting more responsive feel and you cannot run lower pressures to get the same treadwear when using nitrogen vs using air

Read that at least 3 times...it doesn't seem to be getting through.

Your tires will wear slower at a higher PSI, but 40PSI is probably so high that you're getting uneven wear in the center of the tread.

Personally I bought a Lexus for the smooth quiet ride, so if I sacrifice a little treadwear by running the tires at the pressure Lexus specifies for optimum performance its worth it to me.

In terms of treadwear, I personally don't think a good smooth quiet tire is going to last 50k on this car...best I've done is 35k and thats the Michelins.

Posted

I used nothing but Michelins premacy on my cars. Every 6000 rotate and balance, 35 psig pressure, and change with new tires every 50K.

Very quiet and safe tires.

Posted

***Your tires will wear slower at a higher PSI, but 40PSI is probably so high that you're getting uneven wear in the center of the tread.***

ill change my vocab since its not reading right $40 = the steering/control/grip? (whatever you call it) of a fuller tire (40psi) but the less bumpy ride of 35psi. w no benefit in wear. the only thing nitro does is make the tire larger at a lower psi giving it a diff feel.

Thats what i needed... higher psi wears slower. simpler is better :lol: ive always been told to run based on tire max, 5lbs less for better wear. that compairson is for better wear over the car manufacturer reccomendation for comfort. gotcha, thats why you never get the warranty mileage outta a tire. i should believe i will get half the miles. tires are wearing even at 35, i might drop em case its still rough to me. is max psi for heavier vehicles or a scam so they can put higher unattainable mileage for dummies like me?

Posted

The max PSI is the maximum pressure the tires can safely be inflated to. Thats all it is...it should never be used as a guide to where your tires should be inflated to, nor is it designed to be.

Posted

i read the manuel front to back when i got it, ima geek! door tag gives letters for pressure so ill go w the 33. my x left 3 months before i had to learn the tire stuff. i do have a cigarette air pump in my trunk but its not strong enough to keep them high enough just enough to drive on a flat. Im going w the primacy found em for 153$ at tirekingdom w a 40$ coupon and a 20$ off synthetic oil change. cant use em together :( ill get an oil change, order em, and make an appt for the next weekend... i even found a coupon for 16$ off nitro lol jk. well im off for another 5k til then :cheers:

Posted

I did have one question towards alignment. When I did the aliginment they explained that the camber on one of the back wheels was off due to a normal defect w this car. That the is no fix kit made yet and it will not effect anything. has anybody heard this yet? should i be worried about this?

before i had the alinment done it was way off on the charts but i could still take my hand off the wheel and still go straight like nothing was wrong. i was told that was due to the great suspension. the lady that had the car didnt do the aligment when she got the tires and didnt rotate them so you could tell in the wear on the out side of the front tires.


Posted

I have certainly never seen anything about the rear camber on this car, nor has anyone said that to me in the many times I've had it aligned.

The door sticker DEFINITELY has a numeric PSI for pressure and its 29...you're just missing it. 33 is still going to be a little hard on the ride, and since you have new tires coming why not air it to 30 or so and check out the ride?

Posted

that mom n pop tire shop are retards they put Avids H4s High performance all seasons w 40psi. I should have the passenger ones. no excuse for mileage though. I found it at 33psi last night and at at 30psi you can tell the diff in the ride. Its always been smooth but humpity bumpities are still a problem. at 70mph on smooth pavement its a dream but older pavement it vibrates. when its really bad the steering wheel moves back and forth. my daily reminder is seeing the passenger head rest vibrate while the metal on my purse is jingling. i cant wait for new tires so i can fall back in love its been a rough 16k

i checked the door sticker since I was hanging out the door at a stop light... it was still foreign, literally! 200 is eurpoean then ours. how would a girl know that?? dont americans come first? lol thanks dudes

that shop also quoted the mich pilots at $900 which is absurd when i find them a year later for 125.

Posted

Nothing wrong with Ultra High Performance tires on the car, it just depends on the model. Shops are always going to over-inflate your tires. You'll have to take air out of them every time its been in a shop.

The sticker says "TIRE LOADING INFORMATION", the top part is in english, the bottom part in french. The pressure reads as 200 (29) the 29 is the PSI...

You also might want to have someone do a good review of the front suspension. The car is 8 years old and some of the issues you're having with steering etc might be a suspension or steering rack issue...can you describe the "vibrating" better?

Posted

I actually lost my love when I got these tires cause im all about luxury why I got this car. at high speeds 65+: Flexible or lighter things I set on the seat and p. headrest have noticeable vibes increase w conditions. a low speed quiet vibe in the seat belt height adjuster and low audible vibe from p headrest in worst conditions. The vibes I feel are in the steering wheel and increase w tire noise and condition. I don’t vibrate w the ride. On older gentle worn roads vibes are more than I remember but not crazy. Major vibes are on from uneven pavement: waves, dimples, or cracks. my hands/arms only vibrate w worst roads at from the steering wheel movement 1/8in? Back and forth when worst I will double check the regular vibe direction. May be a much stronger vibration moving my hand vs movement? It does not affect the direction of the car in the worst situation, w no hands it holds steady though moving steering wheel. It is enough vibe difference between older and uneven pavement that I notice the diff in the symptoms. Its as smooth as a baby’s but on new pavement, I get good patches. My 40m commute ea way is mixed highway very bad road conditions. Car seems bouncier in city conditions, stiffer bumps may be better

As the tires have broken and worn plus the pressure changes the symptoms have lessened. It was on a lift for the oil change, they made sure to check to find $$. They said all is good but my bushings are getting dry but not cracked. my mechanic he says to leave them be till they give symptoms. Would this be symptoms? I didn’t tell him anything but the tires sucked. my mechanic did 100k main and anything needed at 90k, 10k ago. He wouldn’t have taken it on the highway though.

The few bad reviews that I found said stiff sidewalls rough ride, wear, noise.. Exactly what im getting! im very sensitive to change in my cars esp this smooth one :) I might not know what it is but I notice. :( ill double check in case I lost a 2.5lb weight not sure if size makes a diff in symptoms? I can tell when they are unbalance front vs back at 5lbs

I though high perf was for sportier is or tl diff feel in the ride

Posted

Having read the entire thread I'm compelled to address the nitrogen issue again. Please listen to what the other posters have stated in this thread about nitrogen - it is a gimmick for tire shops to make extra money and it will make absolutely no difference at all in passenger tires. Any difference you have felt has been your imagination, a placebo effect. My car feels peppier after I wash it, but I know it's just because I'm happier driving it. For background, I am an engineer with both tire and nitrogen generator experience. I've worked for two tire manufacturers and I've used both liquid nitrogen and nitrogen generators. I'm not bragging at all, but I do know what I'm talking about.

The only reason nitrogen is used at all in so many industrial applications is that in the process to remove water vapor from air the other gases, mainly oxygen, are also removed. It has nothing to do with the properties of nitrogen vs. oxygen. Remember that air is already 78% nitrogen. The reason that water needs to be removed from aircraft tires is that those tires see temperatures of -40F and then a few minutes later have to immediately support the weight of an aircraft landing at 150-180 mph. Those tires heat up very fast, and with those temperature extremes, it would be impossible to guarantee the tire would have the correct pressure in it to support the aircraft if there were water vapor in the air used to inflate it. If the tire is underinflated, it will overheat quickly and likely fail during landing. Nobody wants to see that happen.

Race cars also use nitrogen for the same reason. The pressures are tightly controlled for optimum handling, and they see similar temperature differences. The tires are stored at ambient temperature then after they are changed during a pit stop they immediately are run at race speeds, 180 - 220 mph, depending on the series. It's the immediate temperature extremes that makes removing the water vapor necessary. Your car tires never see those types of extremes, so it can't benefit from ultra-dry air. Pressure is pressure, no matter if it is generated from 78% nitrogen or 99.5% nitrogen, so whoever told you that 35 psi acts like 40 psi or vice versa was only trying to sell you something. Others have already covered the fallacies regarding corrosion.

Posted

Bridgestone Potenza RE960 AS Pole Position

225/60R-16 98W B

Best Tires I have owned on this car, and I have had a few as this car is 15 years old. I had Pirelli P6 on these before which were fine, but the Bridgestones have transformed the steering without affecting the plush ride. SO happy.

post-96533-1265934771_thumb.jpg

post-96533-1265934788_thumb.jpg

post-96533-1265934801_thumb.jpg

Posted

Sometimes more head is better!! LMFAO I think we are to the end of my bumpy ride…man people are reading this whole thing? i feel like an !Removed!! :huh:

So ride is much smoother 30. I don’t cringe and clench my teeth at hard bumps. Vibrations have dropped in proportion. The back and forth in the steering wheel is at 80mph n down to 1/16 and on wavy pavement. Like… uniform alternating (not symmetrical) dimples as far as you can see down both ruts...making waves? I have no idea how the roads wear in the north? It seems like its just the wheels catchin the dimples along the ruts moving the steering wheel as they catch? Vibrations in steering wheel are just vibes. Now that the steering wheel is not dominant there is a WHOLE lot of butt jiggling going on. I was amazed at how I could have missed that!?. my top was shaking more since i got more moves than a bowl of jello! :censored: I do not have tail end sway or steering issues as if I were missing a weight. I have directionals and 7.5lbs on the right side only. I cant guarantee that there were weights on the other side cause it looks like a combo of weight marks and finger prints on the inner rim. I could not make out a clean spot on the outer rim where the metal band wraps. if they were there they have been gone awhile. I guess I didn’t notice w the wrong pressure in the tires. It makes no sense that 2 of 4 tires would need weights and they just happened to be going the same direction to end up on the same side? im guessing the missing weights are the source of most vibrations since its the steering wheel and the seat. for the money the are prob ok tires minus the wear. im experiencing! Now, will missing two weights on the same side counter balance the swagger or pulling that you normally get, leaving just vibrations, or is it the matter of the amount weight it was off for the symptoms you get? or a fluke chance? also the tires are speed rated h not v like they should be. I was told after installation that it wont matter. I found a yoko (by chance) tire balance sheet but way to technical 8hrs work n managerial accounting my mind is mush :mellow:

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=ca...jh5RE5P6Lj1dedw

can someone wash my car so it feels pepe agian? ive done above the freaking maintenance and cant get a smooth break for like 2 years now. lmfao no one sold me nitro 40 vs 35 that was my wording for the placebo? i understand nitro adds no special powers to the tire. is there a size diff for the same psi? does 35 nitro use less molecules to meet the pressure in the same space? is that what im missing, makes more sense then!!! i havent taken chemistry yet...my brain hurts

so are ultra high performance for sportier cars ( 6 speed TL type yeSSS!!! (i dont get tickets w an automatic))? is passenger code for economy boxes?

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