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Project Es300 Engine Gel!


JPI

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I will be testing the ATF also just for ha ha's.

For me, the less wear, less messy oil changes and being proactive (not re-active)on down time is worth the $45 a year for an oil change. That is less then my Chopin Vodka (1.75 L) or not even 1 blade on my r/c heli....not breaking the bank here.

I was thinking about swtiching to Amsoil new AFL (5w-40 European Motor Oil) since there ZDDP and Ca are VERY high. Low NOAK and >4.0 HTHS and a TBN of 12.2!  Plus it passes Volkswagen spec and the MB229.3 spec. For $0.20 more per qt, I will take it.

A couple questions mburn. First, is it Toyota type IV tranny fluid your testing or the Amsoil ATF synthetic tranny fluid.....or a mixture of the two? :unsure:

Next, the 5W 40 Amsoil........I have heard that using the thicker '40' grade oil will decrease your fuel economy ever so slightly........any thoughts or comments? B)

:cheers:

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Werd. When you change it out, you oughta setup an aux. filter for both oils & an atf cooler.

I'm curious how it helps AMS. Always wanted to buy their stuff & add the aux filters, just never been at the top of the list!

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Lexusfreak

The ATF fluid is Amsoil’s that will be tested.

My most current oil test (with 12K+ miles) showed that 5w30 (Amsoil) thicken to 13.57 cSt (very little); normal for this enigne and oil. While there 5w40 is a 40w but there cST is about 14.5; so a 7.3% delta. Both are in 40 grade viscosities here. Plus the 5w40 is more shear stable.

It is a yes/no answer. If I have worn piston rings and cylinder walls and the thicker oil is giving you a better ring seal and higher compression....If not, more drag LESS Mpg. The euro oils are made for high temp, high HTHS and longer drains (the norm over there). Which I think this oils is better for these sludge engines.

MPG changes is due to many factors. The reason that viscosity of fluids may play a role in the MPG’s. The amount of this change is argued constantly anywhere - I think there might be a slight effect on MPG when using a thicker oil. For the average Joe just try keeping the these things “flat lined”/ constant (driving conditions, weather, tires, fuel, etc) over enough time to detect the difference in oil viscosity can be done, but it is very difficult. It is a toss up with MPG and the slight delta in weights here. Also both A3, B2/3 oils etc etc.

Still debating here

I know people think I am nuts for a 20w50 in my bike and I get 40 city and over 50 highway more MPG. Going to try there 10w40 and see what happens. Maybe more MPG and better shifting. Maybe higher temps? No clue yet.

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Werd. When you change it out, you oughta setup an aux. filter for both oils & an atf cooler.

I'm curious how it helps AMS. Always wanted to buy their stuff & add the aux filters, just never been at the top of the list!

I was at one time going to do a bypass filter for the engine oil. Did a trade study and not worth it. The initial cost and filters kill it. The ATF filter might be but I do not know without doing a study.

The Amsoil Atf cost around $6 per qt and lasts 30 to 40K miles(for me). So that is $25 for 2 years of driving. I do not know what I would benefit form a filter. Less Cu, Fe, Pb, Al??

It will be interesting to see the Oxidation, TAN etc? If it is high or not.

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Not sure, aint looked at the benifits frmo them in a long time.

I remember everyone doing 60K+ on the AMSOil competition site was running dual filters at the time. (I aint seen that thing in ages, I think it was on Geocities)

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Werd. When you change it out, you oughta setup an aux. filter for both oils & an atf cooler.

I'm curious how it helps AMS. Always wanted to buy their stuff & add the aux filters, just never been at the top of the list!

I was at one time going to do a bypass filter for the engine oil. Did a trade study and not worth it. The initial cost and filters kill it. The ATF filter might be but I do not know without doing a study.

The Amsoil Atf cost around $6 per qt and lasts 30 to 40K miles(for me). So that is $25 for 2 years of driving. I do not know what I would benefit form a filter. Less Cu, Fe, Pb, Al??

It will be interesting to see the Oxidation, TAN etc? If it is high or not.

Keep me posted on the ATF test results. I'm curious as to your findings. B)

How do you find your tranny shifts with the Amsoil ATF compared with the Toyota type IV? :unsure: Mine is just fantastic & ever so slightly smoother & that was just a 'drain & fill' ;)

:cheers:

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Werd. When you change it out, you oughta setup an aux. filter for both oils & an atf cooler.

I'm curious how it helps AMS. Always wanted to buy their stuff & add the aux filters, just never been at the top of the list!

I was at one time going to do a bypass filter for the engine oil. Did a trade study and not worth it. The initial cost and filters kill it. The ATF filter might be but I do not know without doing a study.

The Amsoil Atf cost around $6 per qt and lasts 30 to 40K miles(for me). So that is $25 for 2 years of driving. I do not know what I would benefit form a filter. Less Cu, Fe, Pb, Al??

It will be interesting to see the Oxidation, TAN etc? If it is high or not.

Keep me posted on the ATF test results. I'm curious as to your findings. B)

How do you find your tranny shifts with the Amsoil ATF compared with the Toyota type IV? :unsure: Mine is just fantastic & ever so slightly smoother & that was just a 'drain & fill' ;)

:cheers:

The shifts are well, you do not even notice them. No jerking etc. This is one my #2 and #3 drain will be at 100K miles.

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Not sure, aint looked at the benifits frmo them in a long time.

I remember everyone doing 60K+ on the AMSOil competition site was running dual filters at the time. (I aint seen that thing in ages, I think it was on Geocities)

The dual bypass is great for engine oil. You can go a LONGGGG time. The problem I see, are then the bypass filters are like over 50% of a complete oil change.

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Ya. The little remote brackets are pretty expencive if you get anything fairly easy to use. Eh, I'd just pimp three Toyota filters. Like $12 a change. =)

I would love for someone to pull the stock oil cooler out of the block under the filter. I keep thinking running a single big tranny cooler & run the engine oil through the stock transmission cooler.

Eh... The oil's cooled pleanty anyway.

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Hi guys,

I need help on my 2000 ES300. I bought the car one year ago (52k miles on the car) and drove about 4k miles. I noticed blue smoke when I start the car recently. I then did an oil change and the Lexus dealer said the car has Engine Gel. To fix it, it would cost more than 6k and is not covered by the warantee. Obviously I made a big mistage buying this car because the problem must have existed before. I read the posts here and JPI mentioned the job should cost 2k or more. Can anyone help me out and any suggestion is appreciated! I live in Miami.

Juan

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Hi guys,

I need help on my 2000 ES300. I bought the car one year ago (52k miles on the car) and drove about 4k miles. I noticed blue smoke when I start the car recently. I then did an oil change and the Lexus dealer said the car has Engine Gel. To fix it, it would cost more than 6k and is not covered by the warantee. Obviously I made a big mistage buying this car because the problem must have existed before. I read the posts here and JPI mentioned the job should cost 2k or more. Can anyone help me out and any suggestion is appreciated! I live in Miami.

Juan

It is well worth your money to try Auto-Rx....I'm not affilated with them at all, but everbody on the Bob is the Oil guy forum raves about this product....these are serious gear heads and Auto-Rx is one of the only products they believe in.

Go here to read the forums....(Go to the additive forum to ask questions about Auto-Rx and what it might be able to do for your car)

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima....cgi?category=1

Go here to buy Auto-Rx if you so choose...

http://www.auto-rx.com/

Report back to this forum and let us know what happens....make your own thread. I just bought 6 bottles of Auto-Rx for my 1996 Nissan Altima and my 1994 Lexus GS300.

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  • 2 months later...

What's up everyone? Well, i had engine gelling in my 98 es and i contacted lexus. they said not no but **ll no to replacing my engine, so being the mechanical guy that i am i took my heads off cleaned them, cleaned the oil pans and cleaned the oil strainer tube, being thorough the army way by the numbers. I have as yet to replace the oil pump but have put everything together. I am not getting any electrical signs of life though, did i blow something out or is it the ecu? It has been the best car i have ever owned so i am keeeping it , but this gelling problem is for the birds you know, Help!!!! jpi said to bring it to them but .... i don't know .... just trying not to hear any bad news, rreally :chairshot:

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dude, he has seen at least 2 per week every time i had been in there, which is alot! I can personally vouch for it, every time i was there there was a new engine slugde problem. there is always an ES300 or 330 in one of his bays with this issue.

as far as there not being enough ES's, have you EVER BEEN to dallas TX? people have lots of $$$. ES's are EVERYWHERE there. i would estimate well over a million and a half of them spread out over the model years. people drive from other states just to have JPI work ont here cars. ask Blake he drives from louisiana. I drove 70 miles one way for all of my work on my 250.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Since this is about engine gelling just a few pics here to scare you people into good maintenance. This is a dealer maintaned Lexus, although I only have records over the last 7 years. Before that time I really don't know. I have allways been religious about oil-changes for the last 3 years that I have owned the vehicle: every 5 months, top quality 5W40 synthetic.

Not trying to raise discussions or issues, just sharing for interest or comment. The operation cost me a small fortune, 4000,- , but hey, it's one of only 12 ES300's in Europe, and I really love the thing.

On the first pic you can see the thing that actually made me have it openened up: a piece of the right upper vale had broken off....very noticeable when driving. The weird part though: apart from that the engine was running very smooth till then, and as said, nicely serviced, and no complaints. It really is a hidden feature, that sludge thing.

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next post: after cleaning the thing.

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