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Rx350 2009 Oil Filter Change


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RX350 2009 -- To change oil filter, remove the plastic door panel (2 screws 10 mm) approximately located underneath the windshield washer bottle on bottom right side of car. Use a 3/8 drive to unscrew the filter drain plug. The oil did not drain out of the filter housing until the plastic drain tube (included with filter and instructions Fram CH 9972) was inserted into bottom of oil filter housing. When the plastic tube is pushed into the bottom of the filter housing, the oil will start to drain right away. Have the oil drain bucket ready. After the oil has drained out of the filter housing, replace the drain plug. Use a filter wrench that goes over bottom of oil filter housing (I had to buy one at Auto Parts store--it cost about $6. It looks like a huge socket). Unscrew oil filter housing and remove old filter element. Clean out unit and remove the two old gaskets, install new filter element and new gaskets, fill filter housing to 3/4 full, install the oil filter housing back into place, replace the plastic door panel, drain the oil from the oil pan, replace with new oil (approximately 6.4 Qts total with filter, minus what you added to the filter--check your owners manual). Start the engine. Check for leaks. You just saved yourself a bundle; however, you didn't get the jiffy car wash from your dealer.

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Can we get some pictures of this from someone??

On my 07, the filter element is inside the allum. housing. There is nothing else present.

This is what I did:

Took off the housing with the 3/8 drive

Dump the oil out, as it was filled.

Remove the gasket and filter element

Clean the housing

Reinsert the new element and gasket

Replace the housing.

Where is this piece which needs to be pierced with the plastic tube?? What does it look like.

It had to work, as I have no leaks anywhere.

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Can we get some pictures of this from someone??

On my 07, the filter element is inside the allum. housing. There is nothing else present.

This is what I did:

Took off the housing with the 3/8 drive

Dump the oil out, as it was filled.

Remove the gasket and filter element

Clean the housing

Reinsert the new element and gasket

Replace the housing.

Where is this piece which needs to be pierced with the plastic tube?? What does it look like.

It had to work, as I have no leaks anywhere.

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Can we get some pictures of this from someone??

On my 07, the filter element is inside the allum. housing. There is nothing else present.

This is what I did:

Took off the housing with the 3/8 drive

Dump the oil out, as it was filled.

Remove the gasket and filter element

Clean the housing

Reinsert the new element and gasket

Replace the housing.

Where is this piece which needs to be pierced with the plastic tube?? What does it look like.

It had to work, as I have no leaks anywhere.

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Can we get some pictures of this from someone??

On my 07, the filter element is inside the allum. housing. There is nothing else present.

This is what I did:

Took off the housing with the 3/8 drive

Dump the oil out, as it was filled.

Remove the gasket and filter element

Clean the housing

Reinsert the new element and gasket

Replace the housing.

Where is this piece which needs to be pierced with the plastic tube?? What does it look like.

It had to work, as I have no leaks anywhere.

On your 2007, you might not have a drain plug on the bottom of your oil filter housing. I might suggest when you are close to a Walmart or auto parts store, to look inside the box of a Fram CH 9972 filter, it shows pictures and etc.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I would also like to see some photos. I have a 2010 RX350 and like changing my own oil and not fimilar with these new oil filter systems.

Thanks

If you can change oil on the friggan hog you can change on the Lexy lol!!!

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No photos yet but the metal cylinder housing holding the filter element is supposed to come apart in two sections. The 3/8" socket wrench extension is supposed to take off only the very bottom disk on the cylinder. Then the little plastic gizmo that is in the box with the new filter is shoved into the exposed opening, it pushes a valve open, and the oil in the cylinder drains. Hint: a short piece of 5/8" garden hose easily fits over the plastic gizmo and down to the oil drain pan.

Then, since there is no 3/8" square hole on the bottom anymore, a 64 mm socket is needed. NAPA auto sells cheap ones and Assenmacher sells a better one P/N TOY640. Since the cylinder is now empty there is no oil to spill. Replace the filter and the two O rings, reassemble, install, and you are done.

The bottom cap is screwed on very tightly and the whole cylinder will usually turn the first time it is removed. I had to put it in a vice after the whole thing was out to get the little bottom disk off during the first oil change.

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skywagon

you got a point there!!!

hogs are not he easiest things to change the oil on but I had a book to help me through the first time and a bike lift. Could not find anything in the book with a discribtion or what works best for me-photos. I know they want you to take to them for oil changes but I'm an hour away from the nearest dealer and I could have done it myself by then.

Bob

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skywagon

you got a point there!!!

hogs are not he easiest things to change the oil on but I had a book to help me through the first time and a bike lift. Could not find anything in the book with a discribtion or what works best for me-photos. I know they want you to take to them for oil changes but I'm an hour away from the nearest dealer and I could have done it myself by then.

Bob

If you are short on time any Toyota dealer will also do the oil change with a tire rotation for about $60, they also check the brake pads for wear and all the fluids.

Jeff

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  • 2 months later...

I found this very useful instruction, with pictures, on changing the oil filter for an '06 Avalon. The '09 RX350 uses the same oil filter. All you have to do is find the location of the oil filter and the process of removing the filter housing and cartridge should be the same. Hope this helps. Refer to the first post. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141459

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I found this very useful instruction, with pictures, on changing the oil filter for an '06 Avalon. The '09 RX350 uses the same oil filter. All you have to do is find the location of the oil filter and the process of removing the filter housing and cartridge should be the same. Hope this helps. Refer to the first post. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141459

Thanks, the pictures makes it clearer. Does that mean a filter change means changing the filter element and not the housing and filter? This is a first for me.

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I found this very useful instruction, with pictures, on changing the oil filter for an '06 Avalon. The '09 RX350 uses the same oil filter. All you have to do is find the location of the oil filter and the process of removing the filter housing and cartridge should be the same. Hope this helps. Refer to the first post. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141459

Thanks, the pictures makes it clearer. Does that mean a filter change means changing the filter element and not the housing and filter? This is a first for me.

Yes, the filter element is the item that you change. If you follow all the steps in the pdf document, than be sure to change the small and large O-rings as well.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, I wanted to write about my experiences changing the oil on my 2007 RX350. I've never changed my oil before and had some time to kill. I'm not sure how to rate my "handiness"... around the house I routinely fix plumbing and electrical things. I installed the GPS override system that requires you to disassemble the console and thread the wire into the trunk.

Here's my take on it for someone who isn't a car lover: continue to take it to whatever local oil change place you trust and don't think about doing it yourself. Before I get totally flamed, here's why:

1) Cost. My total cost was close to $90 to change my oil and use Mobil 1 5W30. This is from scratch, never having changed oil before. Here;s the breakdown:

-Oil. 7 Quarts Mobil 1 5W30. My local auto parts store (Advantage Autoparts) was selling the stuff at $6/qt. Total: $42

-Filter. Bought a Purolator. $7-ish

-Tools. This was my big screw-up. I read in one place that there was no space so don't buy a chain. I bought a strap. Didn't work. I saw the Toyota tool linked above and bought a 65mm filter tool. Didn't work... too small. Finally bought the Toyota tool. Total cost: $6+ $6 + $25 = $37 (could have been $25).

-Other stuff. Oil pan/container that holds 10 quarts and a funnel. $8 + $5 = $13.

-Ramp. I bought 3 pieces of scrap 2x8's from Home Depot. $2.

Total Cost: $94 (could have been $82)

2) Time. Others are right. Had I known what I was doing, It would have taken 30-45 min. It took me 60-90 min.

3) Messy! Despite having the oil pan in the right place, things still managed to splash and drip. If I was smart, I would have put down a plastic sheet and/or some moving pads to prevent the drips. Now my driveway is messy.

4) I'm not sure I really gained anything.

Must dos: Read the avalon oil change page. Read this other thread (which seems to be located in a suboptimal place).

Details of note: Put down a plastic drop cloth on the ground unless you totally know what you're doing. It's going to be messy. You really only need to raise the right front wheel up a little. 3" with stacked wood is fine. Getting access to the filter is a breeze. I don't know what's up with filter tools but I think there's a quality control issue... you'll see places where people used 65 mm tools and they worked. You'll see places where the 65/67 tool as recommended by most didn't work.

Although I am certain it won't take too long to change my oil in the future, I don't know that it's worth it. Now that I own the tools, things go in my favor economically... but let's face it. It will cost me close to $50 in oil and filter next time. Considering my local wrench monkey shop will charge me $25 for dino oil, well... doesn't make much sense to me. Also, I've driven 4 cars now to the 100k mark changing oil on whatever manufacturers recommended schedule and never lost an engine. In fact, I don't personally know anyone who has.

For personal maintenance, I'm definitely doing my air filters in the future... they're easy and definitely a money saver. I'm not so sure about this other stuff.

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  • 2 weeks later...
So, I wanted to write about my experiences changing the oil on my 2007 RX350. I've never changed my oil before and had some time to kill. I'm not sure how to rate my "handiness"... around the house I routinely fix plumbing and electrical things. I installed the GPS override system that requires you to disassemble the console and thread the wire into the trunk.

Here's my take on it for someone who isn't a car lover: continue to take it to whatever local oil change place you trust and don't think about doing it yourself. Before I get totally flamed, here's why:

1) Cost. My total cost was close to $90 to change my oil and use Mobil 1 5W30. This is from scratch, never having changed oil before. Here;s the breakdown:

-Oil. 7 Quarts Mobil 1 5W30. My local auto parts store (Advantage Autoparts) was selling the stuff at $6/qt. Total: $42

-Filter. Bought a Purolator. $7-ish

-Tools. This was my big screw-up. I read in one place that there was no space so don't buy a chain. I bought a strap. Didn't work. I saw the Toyota tool linked above and bought a 65mm filter tool. Didn't work... too small. Finally bought the Toyota tool. Total cost: $6+ $6 + $25 = $37 (could have been $25).

-Other stuff. Oil pan/container that holds 10 quarts and a funnel. $8 + $5 = $13.

-Ramp. I bought 3 pieces of scrap 2x8's from Home Depot. $2.

Total Cost: $94 (could have been $82)

2) Time. Others are right. Had I known what I was doing, It would have taken 30-45 min. It took me 60-90 min.

3) Messy! Despite having the oil pan in the right place, things still managed to splash and drip. If I was smart, I would have put down a plastic sheet and/or some moving pads to prevent the drips. Now my driveway is messy.

4) I'm not sure I really gained anything.

Must dos: Read the avalon oil change page. Read this other thread (which seems to be located in a suboptimal place).

Details of note: Put down a plastic drop cloth on the ground unless you totally know what you're doing. It's going to be messy. You really only need to raise the right front wheel up a little. 3" with stacked wood is fine. Getting access to the filter is a breeze. I don't know what's up with filter tools but I think there's a quality control issue... you'll see places where people used 65 mm tools and they worked. You'll see places where the 65/67 tool as recommended by most didn't work.

Although I am certain it won't take too long to change my oil in the future, I don't know that it's worth it. Now that I own the tools, things go in my favor economically... but let's face it. It will cost me close to $50 in oil and filter next time. Considering my local wrench monkey shop will charge me $25 for dino oil, well... doesn't make much sense to me. Also, I've driven 4 cars now to the 100k mark changing oil on whatever manufacturers recommended schedule and never lost an engine. In fact, I don't personally know anyone who has.

For personal maintenance, I'm definitely doing my air filters in the future... they're easy and definitely a money saver. I'm not so sure about this other stuff.

Great post enama dog!!!!!!

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