Car Won't Start/dies Quickly After Replacing Air Filter And Cleani

[kashi125]

I replaced the air filter on my 2002 ES300 today. While I was at it, I decided to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner. I also disconnected the battery for 20 mins or so in order to erase the previously learned settings.

Now when I try to start the car, it either doesn't start, or if it starts, it is at very low RPM and then dies after 20 seconds or so.

I made sure none of the hoses is disconnected from the air intake. I have used CRC MAF cleaner in the past on another car without any problems. Any ideas?

[George_Jetson]

I would suggest to clean the throttle body, use some carb cleaner and remove all the deposits around the throttle blade.

[kashi125]

I would just like to add that the car was running perfectly fine before I cleaned the MAF and replaced the filter. So is it still possible that the problem is a dirty throttle body?

[stcist2]

some would say that your car simply needs to re-learn how to idle

[camlex]

I recheck MAF wiring connector

[kashi125]

Thanks for the input everyone. I re-checked the MAF connector and all hoses yesterday and it seemed fine.

stcist2--I was thinking the same thing (car might need to re-learn how to idle). Have you experienced the same thing in the past? How long did it take to return to normal idle RPM?

[kashi125]

I drove around a little bit today to see if the car re-learns the correct idle RPM. It seems to have improved a little bit. It doesn't stall and die any more, but I think the RPM is still low as I can feel a little vibration when the car is parked and idling. I have attached a picture of the tach with car started and transmission in P. Can someone with a 2002 ES300 compare this with theirs and tell me if this normal? As you can see in the picture, my needle sits at the 3rd mark from the bottom. What about yours?

[stcist2]

I to have an 02 es, although i have never disconnected my battery ( and if I do I will hook up a memory saving device ) when fully warmed up mine idles at 600 rpm so if that is the third mark i believe your right there in the correct range...

after looking closer at your picture it looks like yours is idling at 400 rpm, my needle is one notch higher. it could take up to about 50 miles of driving before it returns to normal

[billt22]

You might try removing and cleaning the Idle Control Valve located on the underside of the throttle body. Remove intake air hoses, carefully unscrew the 2 phillips head screws on the ICV (one with yellow paint), carefully remove part exposing a small spring loaded cam. Gently try rotating the shaft back and forth, If it sticks in either direction, it is affecting you idle. Use a good spray injector cleaner like BG and spray into area around cam, work back and forth until it moves freely. Also clean throttle body and butterfly. Worked great on my ES300.

[steviej]

some would say that your car simply needs to re-learn how to idle

read this thread

steviej

[George_Jetson]

some would say that your car simply needs to re-learn how to idle

read this thread

steviej

Shortly after the previous tread, I read a tread on IATN (international auto tech network), where professional tech post for help from other pros. It was for this same problem on a Nissan, and the conclusion of the tread was that cleaning the throttle blade was the fix. Now as previously mentioned here, the car will learn the new positons in time, but as you can imagine for a professional mechanic this is not a option. They cannot return a car, and tell the customer to drive it until it stops stalling at lights. By having a clean throttle body, the base airflow is closer to what it was from the factory. Which make it easier for the ECM to re-learn the idle setting. Also keep in mind that forcing the ECM to learn from a corrupt baseline can cause other issues.

I personnelly have not worked on any of these electronic throttle bodies, but I do have my ASE L1 cert, and the theory is sound. You would be hard pressed to find a professional mechanic that would disagree with the idea that the throttle body needs to be cleaned.

[kashi125]

Update: The car started idling fine after about a day/60miles of driving around.

I didn't clean the throttle plate, but will do when I get a chance.

[steviej]

Update: The car started idling fine after about a day/60miles of driving around.

I didn't clean the throttle plate, but will do when I get a chance.

that was my experience on several occassions.

[stcist2]

some would say that your car simply needs to re-learn how to idle

read this thread

steviej

Shortly after the previous tread, I read a tread on IATN (international auto tech network), where professional tech post for help from other pros. It was for this same problem on a Nissan, and the conclusion of the tread was that cleaning the throttle blade was the fix. Now as previously mentioned here, the car will learn the new positons in time, but as you can imagine for a professional mechanic this is not a option. They cannot return a car, and tell the customer to drive it until it stops stalling at lights. By having a clean throttle body, the base airflow is closer to what it was from the factory. Which make it easier for the ECM to re-learn the idle setting. Also keep in mind that forcing the ECM to learn from a corrupt baseline can cause other issues.

I personnelly have not worked on any of these electronic throttle bodies, but I do have my ASE L1 cert, and the theory is sound. You would be hard pressed to find a professional mechanic that would disagree with the idea that the throttle body needs to be cleaned.

interesting stuff, I do have a new question though. what is the proceedure for cleaning one of these fly by wire throttle plates? when I had mine apart for the t belt and tune up I was not sure on how to get to the back of the throttle plate...

seeing as 99 % of the build up is on the back side. would that be turn the key on mash the accel pedal and turn the key off?

I would assume the throttle plate would return to the closed position when the key was turned off \.? or would it take two people, one to hold the accel pedal and the other to clean?? one thing for sure for everyone else reading this post; never use anything that could scratch the surfaces in there I.E. DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH TO CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY!!!

in the past Iv'e used carb spray and several clean rags, spray wipe repeat...until clean. and those paint gun cleaning tools are awsome they won't melt like a toothbrush and are really cheap at Harbor Freight..

[George_Jetson]

I would suggest that you try having a friend turn the key on (but do not start the car), and depress the throttle. See if that gets it to move. I have not yet cleaned one of these yet, but have read a little about them. If this does not work let me know. I will post the question on IATN forums, I am sure they could get the answer.

As far as cleaning, you are correct that using a wire brush is not a good idea. Get a can of carb cleaner and spray it, some Qtips or a clean rag should be all that you need. The deposits normally come off very quickly.

[Rrolfe64]

I have a 2010 Ford Ranger. I parked it in back yard for winter. There are a lot of animals since I live out in the country. I drove to the gas station to put gas in my truck and soon as I left the gas station headed back home, my truck died. It acted like it wanted to start but for unknown reasons would not. SO we tow it back to house with another vehicle. Today, week later I decide to dig into the problem. I take off my air cleaner cover to inspect and low and behold, a chipmunk chewed the *BLEEP* out of my air cleaner. Bought a new air cleaner, took the wire mesh from the bad air cleaner off and made a wire cover to block the chipmunk from getting in again. Put everything back together. Truck wont start. So I am assuming that some of the tore up debris entered through the throttle body and is obstructing airflow.