Jump to content


Flushing An 08 Es350 Sealed Transmission


KBRX330

Recommended Posts

Well my ES350 is up to 50,000 miles so I decided it is time to flush the trans because I don't ever want to run ATF 100k like the manual says. I did it today successfully via the trans cooler lines and the old fluid was very dark red and stunk quite a bit.

Tools needed:

3/8 ratchet

Torque wrench

6mm allen socket

15/16 socket

short extension

pliers

1 gallon graduated drain painters bucket (ace hardware $2)

IR thermometer

6" funnel with 2' hose attached

1' plece of clear tubing 3/8"

12 quarts WS ATF ( $6.60/qt by the case at a Toyota dealer)

Crush washer gaskets for the drain & fill plugs.

Engine & trans must be completely cold. (best if sat overnight)

The trans fill plug is located by removing a small plastic splash panel in the drivers side wheel well. (15/16) It is stamped WS on the plug. Turn the wheel all the way to the left for easy access.

The drain/dip tube plug is on the bottom of the trans pan (6mm allen)

Remove the wheel well spash piece exposing the fill plug. Break the plug loose.

Remove the driver side plastic under pan exposing the 2 rubber cooler lines on the bottom of the trans.

Remove drain/dip tube plug from trans. About 1 quart of ATF will drain out

Replace drain/dip tube plug in trans pan snug but do not torque

Remove fill plug and insert hose/funnel balance funnel on strut spring in wheel well

Add 1 quart of WS ATF leaving hose in fill hole.

Remove the clamp (slide up hose with pliers) on the cooler line on the drivers side

Slip cooler hose off fitting aim into bucket

Slip clear tubing over cooler fitting aim into bucket

Have helper start car....2 quarts of fluid will pump out. When air pumps out shut off car immmediately.

Add 2 quarts of WS ATF to fill hole with funnel

Repeat pumping out 2 quarts at a time starting car and shutting off quickly until you have pumped 11 quarts through.

You should have 11 quarts out and 11 quarts in( be sure to count them)

By 11 quarts the fluid should be coming out clean.

Reconnect cooler line with factory clamp

Add 1/2 quart WS ATF in fill hole. Install fill plug snug but do not torque yet

Start car and check for leaks.

Cycle trans shift lever through PRNDL 3 times

With car running check trans oil pan with IR thermometer until it reaches 104F

AT 104F remove trans pan drain/dip tube plug and allow fluid to drain until it becomes a trickle. Quickly install plug back in pan. ( about 1/2 quart came out of mine)

Shut off engine.

Torque fill plug to 35 foot lbs

Torque pan drain dip tube plug to 30 foot lbs.

Start car and test drive 5 miles and check for leaks.

Replace plastic underbody and splash panel.

You are done.

Note: the car should be level for the trans oil dip tube measurement so since my ES sits low in the front I used 2 floor jacks to lift the front end about 6" .

Good luck hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Wow I thought on sealed transmissions like the one on my 09 IS350 said transmission flush and replace of fluid would never be needed. Am I wrong?

Depends on how long you want to keep the car. The book says 100k and the dealers say the same thing but they all said that about the RX300's and 330's with the T-IV fluid which was supposed to be "better" than DexronIII. Many of the RX300 transmissions went South at 90-100k. The 330's were better but I have seen posts where people were putting a $5,000 trans in at 125k. I keep my cars for at least 150,000 miles so the $100.00 I spend flushing the transmissions every 50,000 miles trumps the $5,000 replacement cost.

But for me? I never go past 50,000 miles with any ATF. Just way too easy to replace it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool write up KBRX.....I don't trust a 100k mile interval for the fluid change either. Good news too is Amsoil now makes a WS ATF. Thanks for sharing.

:cheers:

Amsoil makes a WS??? Since when? What do they call it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool write up KBRX.....I don't trust a 100k mile interval for the fluid change either. Good news too is Amsoil now makes a WS ATF. Thanks for sharing.

:cheers:

Amsoil makes a WS??? Since when? What do they call it?

Here you go....it's fairly new, but I heard it was in the pipeline...

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atl.aspx

:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool write up KBRX.....I don't trust a 100k mile interval for the fluid change either. Good news too is Amsoil now makes a WS ATF. Thanks for sharing.

:cheers:

Amsoil makes a WS??? Since when? What do they call it?

Here you go....it's fairly new, but I heard it was in the pipeline...

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atl.aspx

:cheers:

Thanks, that will be going in on the next flush for sure. The WS I drained at 50k didn't look any different than the T-IV from my RX330.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, that will be going in on the next flush for sure. The WS I drained at 50k didn't look any different than the T-IV from my RX330.

Amsoil is all I use....whether it be in place of Toyota Type IV or WS fluid. :)

:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 330's were better but I have seen posts where people were putting a $5,000 trans in at 125k.

Where?! I've never seen any such failures on here...

I have seen several at my dealer and independent Toyo mechanic alone. The 330 trans is much better than the 300 but they still need new fluid before 100k. Then add to the difficulty in finding a shop that will rebuild them and you are stuck going back to Lexus for a replacement unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 330's were better but I have seen posts where people were putting a $5,000 trans in at 125k.

Where?! I've never seen any such failures on here...

Here is one.

Posted on: Dec 20 2007, 02:23 AM

New Club Member

Group: Regular Member

Posts: 6

Joined: 20-December 07

Member No.: 60,327

Hello all,

I am new to the forum and I currently have a 2004 RX 330, which lexus has to buy back..because of the bad transmission shifting.. The dealer told me to try the 2006 version of the RX 330, he said that the 2004 was a bad year and a 2006 is better. Is there anyone out there with a 2006 rx 330 with bad transmission shifting between the first and second gears?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well thats a bad shift that Lexus bought back...hardly a transmission failure due to wear...

ok...you are 100% right.......run your ws fluid for as long as you want and keep your fingers crossed. The next time I post I'll make sure to consult you for your expert advice first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats not what I'm saying at all. I absolutely would flush the fluid and often, I've replaced the fluid in my car every 15k miles which is way more than what is reccomended...its cheap insurance.

My comment was simply that I personally have never heard of a failure on an RX330 due to wear, which I absolutely cannot say about the RX300. Transmissions can fail, but there is no question the RX330 has a more reliable transmission than the 300. I simply expressed surprise at your comment because it was contrary to my experience.

By the way...check the attitude at the door. This is a discussion forum, and if you can't handle someone commenting on your comments or challenging your statements...don't post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
Well my ES350 is up to 50,000 miles so I decided it is time to flush the trans because I don't ever want to run ATF 100k like the manual says. I did it today successfully via the trans cooler lines and the old fluid was very dark red and stunk quite a bit.

Tools needed:

3/8 ratchet

Torque wrench

6mm allen socket

15/16 socket

short extension

pliers

1 gallon graduated drain painters bucket (ace hardware $2)

IR thermometer

6" funnel with 2' hose attached

1' plece of clear tubing 3/8"

12 quarts WS ATF ( $6.60/qt by the case at a Toyota dealer)

Crush washer gaskets for the drain & fill plugs.

Engine & trans must be completely cold. (best if sat overnight)

The trans fill plug is located by removing a small plastic splash panel in the drivers side wheel well. (15/16) It is stamped WS on the plug. Turn the wheel all the way to the left for easy access.

The drain/dip tube plug is on the bottom of the trans pan (6mm allen)

Remove the wheel well spash piece exposing the fill plug. Break the plug loose.

Remove the driver side plastic under pan exposing the 2 rubber cooler lines on the bottom of the trans.

Remove drain/dip tube plug from trans. About 1 quart of ATF will drain out

Replace drain/dip tube plug in trans pan snug but do not torque

Remove fill plug and insert hose/funnel balance funnel on strut spring in wheel well

Add 1 quart of WS ATF leaving hose in fill hole.

Remove the clamp (slide up hose with pliers) on the cooler line on the drivers side

Slip cooler hose off fitting aim into bucket

Slip clear tubing over cooler fitting aim into bucket

Have helper start car....2 quarts of fluid will pump out. When air pumps out shut off car immmediately.

Add 2 quarts of WS ATF to fill hole with funnel

Repeat pumping out 2 quarts at a time starting car and shutting off quickly until you have pumped 11 quarts through.

You should have 11 quarts out and 11 quarts in( be sure to count them)

By 11 quarts the fluid should be coming out clean.

Reconnect cooler line with factory clamp

Add 1/2 quart WS ATF in fill hole. Install fill plug snug but do not torque yet

Start car and check for leaks.

Cycle trans shift lever through PRNDL 3 times

With car running check trans oil pan with IR thermometer until it reaches 104F

AT 104F remove trans pan drain/dip tube plug and allow fluid to drain until it becomes a trickle. Quickly install plug back in pan. ( about 1/2 quart came out of mine)

Shut off engine.

Torque fill plug to 35 foot lbs

Torque pan drain dip tube plug to 30 foot lbs.

Start car and test drive 5 miles and check for leaks.

Replace plastic underbody and splash panel.

You are done.

Note: the car should be level for the trans oil dip tube measurement so since my ES sits low in the front I used 2 floor jacks to lift the front end about 6" .

Good luck hope this helps.

The TC I found states to add 200ml back in (about 6.7 oz), here is the last page of the Tc:

TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL – TC011-07 August 11, 2007

Page 5 of 5

5. Check the ATF fluid level.

NOTE:

The fluid temperature MUST be between 104 and 113°F (40 and 45°C) to accurately

check the fluid level.

A. Remove the overflow plug with

the engine idling (A/C OFF).

HINT:

Removing the overflow plug before

reaching fluid check temperature

makes it easier to confirm when fluid

starts coming out at a steady rate.

B. Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube.

If fluid does NOT come out, proceed to step 6, “Refill the transaxle’’.

If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to

step 7, “Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure’’.

6. Refill the transaxle.

A. Remove the overflow plug and gasket.

B. Connect the transmission fill system pump and hose to the quick disconnect

adapter already connected to the refill hole.

C. Add ATF into the refill hole until ATF flows from the overflow tube.

D. Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to the

“Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure’’ procedure in step 7.

7. Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure.

A. Install the overflow plug with a NEW gasket.

B. Add an additional 200 ml of ATF WS through the refill hole.

C. Stop the engine.

D. Install the refill plug with a NEW gasket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My service manual doesn't say that but I have read it somewhere. But 6oz probably doesn't mean squat when you are talking the capacity is 11.4 quarts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Having just flushed the tranny fluid in my 07 Tacoma using a similar procedure, the most annoying part was the repeated fill-X-#-of quarts and start the engine to flush out the trany pan.

I came up with a procedure to avoid this repetitive step (you will only need to turn on the engine once) by puchasing a 5-gallon bucket with measure marks at Home Depot. Buckets run about $6; look for them in the paint department. A few aisles over, I bought 3 feet of 5/8's ID clear tubing and 6 feet of 3/8's. Grab a funnel that will hold the 5/8's tubing (I trimmed a half-inch from an old one I had).

Drain the trany pan and hand-tighten the drain plug. (I drained just over a quart.)

Refill with 3 fresh quarts of WS.

Set up your funnel and tubing. 5/8's tube from funnel to fill plug and 3/8's from radiator to bucket.

Remove all caps from remaining quarts and have them within arms reach

Have a helper turn on the engine and start filling trany when bucket starts filling up

Keep a steady pace filling up one quart after the other.

Have helper shift through the gears, pausing about 2 seconds in each gear

Shut off engine when fluid in bucket reaches around 11.5 quarts.

My biggest concern was the rate to pour in the fluid - I didn't want to overflow. Turns out I kept the right pace because just as the fluid mark hit 11 quarts on the bucket, the fluid started gurgling. When filling with fresh fluid, don't spend too much time getting the last drop out. When you are finish, you can go back and pour in the last drops from each quart.

post-57570-0-73165400-1358114468_thumb.j

post-57570-0-96190600-1358114626_thumb.j

post-57570-0-92579400-1358114642_thumb.j

post-57570-0-08655100-1358114667_thumb.j

This is my wife's 07 ES350 and it had about 105K when I flushed it. They were easy miles. Fluid was dark with a slight hint of burnt aroma. Will change it around 170k next time, and will consider using Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF (red cap) next time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


By the way, AMsoil does have fluid for the WS however everyone be aware that it is not to be used in the hybrids....That is what I was told by AMSOIL....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having just flushed the tranny fluid in my 07 Tacoma using a similar procedure, the most annoying part was the repeated fill-X-#-of quarts and start the engine to flush out the trany pan.

I came up with a procedure to avoid this repetitive step (you will only need to turn on the engine once) by puchasing a 5-gallon bucket with measure marks at Home Depot. Buckets run about $6; look for them in the paint department. A few aisles over, I bought 3 feet of 5/8's ID clear tubing and 6 feet of 3/8's. Grab a funnel that will hold the 5/8's tubing (I trimmed a half-inch from an old one I had).

Drain the trany pan and hand-tighten the drain plug. (I drained just over a quart.)

Refill with 3 fresh quarts of WS.

Set up your funnel and tubing. 5/8's tube from funnel to fill plug and 3/8's from radiator to bucket.

Remove all caps from remaining quarts and have them within arms reach

Have a helper turn on the engine and start filling trany when bucket starts filling up

Keep a steady pace filling up one quart after the other.

Have helper shift through the gears, pausing about 2 seconds in each gear

Shut off engine when fluid in bucket reaches around 11.5 quarts.

My biggest concern was the rate to pour in the fluid - I didn't want to overflow. Turns out I kept the right pace because just as the fluid mark hit 11 quarts on the bucket, the fluid started gurgling. When filling with fresh fluid, don't spend too much time getting the last drop out. When you are finish, you can go back and pour in the last drops from each quart.

post-57570-0-73165400-1358114468_thumb.j

post-57570-0-96190600-1358114626_thumb.j

post-57570-0-92579400-1358114642_thumb.j

post-57570-0-08655100-1358114667_thumb.j

This is my wife's 07 ES350 and it had about 105K when I flushed it. They were easy miles. Fluid was dark with a slight hint of burnt aroma. Will change it around 170k next time, and will consider using Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF (red cap) next time.

I like the 5 gal bucket deal. I also have the exact same red funnel so I will be doing your method next. I am going to try and find a fill bolt and drill a hole and add a piece of metal line to attach the hose to so I can simply screw in the new fill plug and not worry about it backing up. I do think you can buy adapter kits from the people who make fluid extractors. I know they make a Toyota set up for use on other Toyota applications where you actually pump the ATF into the fill hole. But this home made set up works and is easy on the wallet. Very nice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By the way, AMsoil does have fluid for the WS however everyone be aware that it is not to be used in the hybrids....That is what I was told by AMSOIL....

I just shop my local dealers for WS in case price. I usually get a case of 12 for $80-90.00. Then add $3 for the drain plug crush washer and you have a complete fluid exchange for under $100. Not bad. But the Amsoil substitute for WS is a very good fluid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same thing for the Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF - not recommended for hybrids. Here is link to their spec sheet. http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf

I'm interested in that fill plug adapter K. Let us know if you find one. It might also fit my Tacoma. You could also cut a small piece of 5/8 or 3/8 tubing and squeeze in the fill hole to keep the line from pulling out. I kept holding it but I never felt it sliding out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I just did the transmission fluid change last weekend. Instead of pouring each bottle of new ATF through a funnel, I just poured all the remaining 10 quarts (after 2 quarts of new ATF were already replaced in the pan) into a 2.5 gallon water/bevarage dispenser (purchased at Walmarts for $7) and connected the dispenser spigot to the transmission fill hole with 5/8" clear PVC. I turned on the dispenser before starting the car. If the new ATF was flowing in too fast, I could just turn off the spigot momentarily and on again when the same amount of old fluid was pumped out. This made the job really easy and clean. I don't know how Lexus does not recommend changing ATF as part of the maintenance schedule, but at 90,000 miles, the fluid came out pretty dirty (blackish brown in color).

I also did the coolant flush, power steering flush, brake bleed and brake rotors/pads replacement all in the same day. Thanks for all the info provided by great forum members.

htd4555

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, I am gathering parts to flush my 09 ES transmission using the 5Gal bucket method(thanks for the pictures). What was the drain plug and the fill plug crush washer sizes?

Also, did much fluid come out of the cooler hose when unclamped? trying to prevent spill much as possible.

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My es 350 transmission service manual says the 6mm hex socket filler tube must be torqued to 1.7 N-M or 15 in-lbs. in order to adjust the fluid level precisely. 15 in-lbs is also equal to 1.25 Ft-lbs of torque. Anyone have a torque wrench that goes down that low? the lowest setting on my 1/4 drive torque wrench is 20 in-lbs. I am not even sure the torque wrench is accurate at the lowest setting anyway.

I would love to hear what you guys did for the 6MM hex socket tube tightening after draining the pan.

Or should I not bother draining the pan in order to preserve the factory tight setting of the oil filler tube

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

My es 350 transmission service manual says the 6mm hex socket filler tube must be torqued to 1.7 N-M or 15 in-lbs. in order to adjust the fluid level precisely. 15 in-lbs is also equal to 1.25 Ft-lbs of torque. Anyone have a torque wrench that goes down that low? the lowest setting on my 1/4 drive torque wrench is 20 in-lbs. I am not even sure the torque wrench is accurate at the lowest setting anyway.

I would love to hear what you guys did for the 6MM hex socket tube tightening after draining the pan.

Or should I not bother draining the pan in order to preserve the factory tight setting of the oil filler tube

I never mess with the tube. I just remove the plug to set the fluid level after flushing. 180,000+ miles and still going strong. I like all of the inventors on this thread. I wonder if the people at Lexus read these threads where people invent methods to do DIY service.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership