Sign in to follow this  
gknitz

1993 Es300 Overheating Problem?

Recommended Posts

I have a 1993 Lexus ES300 that overheated and the engine died on July 2, 2003. The dealer fixed the problem by replacing the wires, plugs, rotor and cap. The reason given for the failure was that car had a broken rotor and broken plug wires.

Then on September 12, 2003, the car overheated and died. The reason given was a bad water pump. The car had 112,000 mile so they replaced the “WATER PUMP ASSY,” BELT, TIMING,” “IDLER S/A. TIMNG BELT,” “IDLER S/A. TIMING BE,” “ANTIFREEZE LEXUS,” “CAP S/A, RADITOR,” and “THERMOSTAT.”

Today, January 15, 2004, the car started overheating. If the car sits idle or you are in stop and go traffic, the car overheats and the temperature gauge goes into the red zone. Then with the temperature gauge in the red zone, you sit with the car in park and idle at 2k-3k RPMs the temperature gauge will return to normal after about 2 minutes.

Does anyone know what is causing the latest problem? It appears that the dealer may be missing the true reason the car keeps overheating?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

your reoccuring problem is a reoccuring question

there are many answers to fixes already tried and failed

it seems to be related to the fan not being turned on properly in traffic by the power steering pump

your dealer ows you alot of money for really bad diagnosis

find the other posts and it will answer all your questions

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had an overheating problem recently, but it was worse than your case from the sounds of it. Fixed mine by replacing the head gaskets. Better hope that's not your problem b/c it's a tough job for the DIYer...I managed to do it though, and the car runs like a top now B) In any case though, good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same problem with overheating in my 92, and was fixed by replacing the head gaskets too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 1993 Lexus ES300 that overheated and the engine died on July 2, 2003. The dealer fixed the problem by replacing the wires, plugs, rotor and cap. The reason given for the failure was that car had a broken rotor and broken plug wires.

If the engine was missing and you kept driving it with an ignition miss - to the point of overheating and then stopping - then the engine may have been permanently damaged and may not be repairable without an expensive overhaul.

I'd get the compression of the engine tested. If compression is low on some cylinders (below about 150 psi) or uneven from cylinder to cylinder (some cylinders 170-180 psi and other cylinders 150 psi or below) then your engine was damaged by the engine missing and overheating.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check your power steering pump for leaks. Check fluid level. Check fan belt that drives the pump for proper tension and condition. Check your thermostat. Most importantly, when engine is cool, check both raditor filler necks for proper fluid level. Takes many toppings over a short period to fill properly (fill to top of neck).

Sounds like engine takes power away from sterring pump and thus causing the engine fan malfunction during driving. Parking and idling alleviates the problem because adequate power is returned to the steering pump.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have a 1993 Lexus ES300 that overheated and the engine died on July 2, 2003. The dealer fixed the problem by replacing the wires, plugs, rotor and cap. The reason given for the failure was that car had a broken rotor and broken plug wires.

Then on September 12, 2003, the car overheated and died. The reason given was a bad water pump. The car had 112,000 mile so they replaced the “WATER PUMP ASSY,” BELT, TIMING,” “IDLER S/A. TIMNG BELT,” “IDLER S/A. TIMING BE,” “ANTIFREEZE LEXUS,” “CAP S/A, RADITOR,” and “THERMOSTAT.”

Today, January 15, 2004, the car started overheating. If the car sits idle or you are in stop and go traffic, the car overheats and the temperature gauge goes into the red zone. Then with the temperature gauge in the red zone, you sit with the car in park and idle at 2k-3k RPMs the temperature gauge will return to normal after about 2 minutes.

Does anyone know what is causing the latest problem? It appears that the dealer may be missing the true reason the car keeps overheating?

Thanks.

i have the same problem to, i change alot of caps timing belt. then one close mechanic friend told me that to remove the thermostat because it hydralic and just let the cooling rush thru constantly. he try it on a nissan 93 and it stop overheating.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have a 1993 Lexus ES300 that overheated and the engine died on July 2, 2003.  The dealer fixed the problem by replacing the wires, plugs, rotor and cap.  The reason given for the failure was that car had a broken rotor and broken plug wires.

Then on September 12, 2003, the car overheated and died.  The reason given was a bad water pump.  The car had 112,000 mile so they replaced the “WATER PUMP ASSY,” BELT, TIMING,” “IDLER S/A. TIMNG BELT,” “IDLER S/A. TIMING BE,”  “ANTIFREEZE LEXUS,”  “CAP S/A, RADITOR,” and “THERMOSTAT.”

Today, January 15, 2004, the car started overheating.  If the car sits idle or you are in stop and go traffic, the car overheats and the temperature gauge goes into the red zone.  Then with the temperature gauge in the red zone, you sit with the car in park and idle at 2k-3k RPMs the temperature gauge will return to normal after about 2 minutes.

Does anyone know what is causing the latest problem?  It appears that the dealer may be missing the true reason the car keeps overheating?

Thanks.

i have the same problem to, i change alot of caps timing belt. then one close mechanic friend told me that to remove the thermostat because it hydralic and just let the cooling rush thru constantly. he try it on a nissan 93 and it stop overheating.

Taking thermostat out is a temp fix, it's not good for the long term. Your engine needs to reach to a certain temp to operate properly. Back to the overheating problem, I would suggest that you flush your cooling system out. If it doesn't do it, change your H/G. While you have the head off, I would go ahead and do the valve steam seals.

JPI

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this