Brakes Need Help Please

[BRIXZ28]

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW IN DETAIL HOW HARD OF JOB TO REPLACE REAR

BRAKES ON 2004 RX330?

WE ARE LEAVING TO on vac. this week & they are squeaking.

thak you for any help

[code58]

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW IN DETAIL HOW HARD OF JOB TO REPLACE REAR

BRAKES ON 2004 RX330?

WE ARE LEAVING TO on vac. this week & they are squeaking.

thak you for any help

Brix- It's an easy job. Maybe even have your wife do it on her lunch hour. LOL Seriously, she probably could do it. Don't worry about turning the rotors, unless they are really chewed up. I believe there is 1 bolt to remove and the caliper will pivot up off the rotor on the pin, which is the second thing that holds the caliper. I would suggest that you use a box wrench to loosen the bleed screw, I think it is 8MM, not sure. Put something under the screw to catch the fluid, maybe a rag or paper towels. Use a large screw driver between the caliper and the rotor, in the opening in the middle of the caliper, on the inboard side of the rotor. When you're in position with the screw driver, open the bleed screw with one hand while you force the caliper inboard with the other hand. Immediately when the caliper bottoms out, close the bleed screw. That way you're not pushing the fluid back upstream (not good) and you can remove the old pads and insert the new pads. Make sure you put the anti-squeek or whatever they give you with the pads on the shim or back of the pads, if no shim. Swing the caliper back in place and insert bolt. make sure master cylinder is full of appropriate fluid and press the brakes a couple of times to bring the pads in contact with the rotor. That way, no need for bleeding. You're done, and enjoy your vacation!

[BRIXZ28]

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW IN DETAIL HOW HARD OF JOB TO REPLACE REAR

BRAKES ON 2004 RX330?

WE ARE LEAVING TO on vac. this week & they are squeaking.

thak you for any help

ok, thanks! will I have to depress the piston? I will tell my wife this is a huge

job & maybe she will make something special for me.

[Speedemon]

while you force the caliper inboard with the other hand. Immediately when the caliper bottoms out, close the bleed screw. That way you're not pushing the fluid back upstream (not good) and you can remove the old pads and insert the new pads.

what's so wrong with pushing the fluid back upstream, it is a negligible amount of fluid and if proper fluid maint has been done or will be done later in regards to flushing then there is no need to open the bleeder. If you open the bleeder with one hand try and compress the piston on the caliper with the other hand and close the bleeder before you introduce air into the system I think you might want to reconsider.

with every car or truck that I've ever done a brake job on I've always used the old pad as something to put 2 flat screw drivers on like a scissor jack and just slowly compressed the piston enough to make room for the new pads.

I'm not familiar with the abs system with the rx but pushing fluid backwards in the system really hasn't been an issue for the last 15 years at least on most other manufacturers.

If I'm wrong enlighten me.

unless you have a bad pulsation when braking you won't need to machine the rotors, keep in mind though if the rotors are not machined the pads will take a little longer to seat in to the rotor because of potential grooves etc....

[code58]

while you force the caliper inboard with the other hand. Immediately when the caliper bottoms out, close the bleed screw. That way you're not pushing the fluid back upstream (not good) and you can remove the old pads and insert the new pads.

what's so wrong with pushing the fluid back upstream, it is a negligible amount of fluid and if proper fluid maint has been done or will be done later in regards to flushing then there is no need to open the bleeder. If you open the bleeder with one hand try and compress the piston on the caliper with the other hand and close the bleeder before you introduce air into the system I think you might want to reconsider.

with every car or truck that I've ever done a brake job on I've always used the old pad as something to put 2 flat screw drivers on like a scissor jack and just slowly compressed the piston enough to make room for the new pads.

I'm not familiar with the abs system with the rx but pushing fluid backwards in the system really hasn't been an issue for the last 15 years at least on most other manufacturers.

If I'm wrong enlighten me.

unless you have a bad pulsation when braking you won't need to machine the rotors, keep in mind though if the rotors are not machined the pads will take a little longer to seat in to the rotor because of potential grooves etc....

In answer to your question Speedemon, I quit pushing the fluid back upstream a long time ago when it pushed a proportioning valve off center and I had a dickens of a time getting it recentered. I don't frankly know if they still use a proportioning valve, but I no longer have to worry about it. No chance of that when you open the bleeder valve. And also, with the bleeder open and no one stepping on the pedal, gravity will keep air from entering the system anyway. (at least until your master cylinder is empty- ) What if the person has kept the master cylinder full or nearly full as they should? Then in order to push the fluid back upstream, you have to suction some out or your going to overflow the MC. My question is: why not let it out the bleeder when it is so much easier and has NO down sides? I do the same thing you do but with 1 large screw driver (preferably the kind with the very broad bent end used for prying), except for letting the fluid out the bleeder. Quicker and simpler for the reasons stated. Now I ask you- why not? For the past 20 yrs. I have not found an adequate answer to that question. :)

[Speedemon]

except for letting the fluid out the bleeder. Quicker and simpler for the reasons stated. Now I ask you- why not? For the past 20 yrs. I have not found an adequate answer to that question. :)

your logic is sound but as with anything there are no guarantees, you open the bleeder, yes it will gravity feed, but the internal design of the calipers cylinder could rest a mm or 2 if your screw driver slips or you just don't keep quite enough pressure on the piston, giving way to the possibility of introducing air into the system, and everyone knows thats bad.

concerning the fluid going back upstream, I don't think that has been an issue for a long time with most manufactures, as long as you go at it slowly, as far as the fluid over flowing the brake resevoir, I typically never have this problem because the rears are worn too, if you do all 4 you will need to put some rags under it or like you said pull some out.

It obviously works for you and I'm not saying it won't, it just gives someone who might be doing his first brake job on this car one more thing to go wrong and to make him shy away from DIY stuff in the future if he loses his pedal and has to get it towed some place to have the brakes bled.

[Karl K]

Guys, I hate to interrupt the conversation but take it from a retired pro. Never pry the piston back by putting pressure on the disc. The proper way is to pivot the caliper up, put a "C"-clamp on the old pad, open the bleeder, crank back the piston by applying the c-clamp pressure against the old pad, when the piston is all the way in close the bleeder. Never push the old, contaminated fluid up-stream into the master cylinder just like code58 says. Also you wouldn't have to clean up the mess from an overflowing master cylinder reservoir.

Just my 2 cents

Karl

[Speedemon]

Guys, I hate to interrupt the conversation but take it from a retired pro. Never pry the piston back by putting pressure on the disc. The proper way is to pivot the caliper up, put a "C"-clamp on the old pad, open the bleeder, crank back the piston by applying the c-clamp pressure against the old pad, when the piston is all the way in close the bleeder. Never push the old, contaminated fluid up-stream into the master cylinder just like code58 says. Also you wouldn't have to clean up the mess from an overflowing master cylinder reservoir.

Just my 2 cents

Karl

Potato - Pohtahto

contaminated fluid isn't an issue with proper fluid maintanence, and if it is the rear the fluid will probably not make it back to the master cylinder due to the length of the brake lines.

I never said anything about prying on a disk because that's not a good idea, he may have

Agreed with the C-Clamp or a caliper tool that they sell at trash auto to push on the old pad

I don't agree with the bleeder method for someone who is posting the question on a message board to see how difficult a brake job is, I've been turning wrenches for a long time and you can't tell me that you did it that way on every single customers car, most times it's rip it apart, machine the rotors and slap it back together as quick as possible to slurp up all that gravy and move on to the next job. If you did it that way on every single job I'll give you more credit than probably 90% of the rest of the techs out there and I've known many.

Not disagreeing with the method at all, it's sound but there is still a chance of someone else (not us) introducing air into the system.

Again not disagreeing with the method, I'm just disagreeing with advising an unseasoned individual to do it, no offense to the original poster, you may have more experience than I'm giving you credit for.

It's neither here nor there if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and you have basic tools you can do this brake job easily.

[code58]

Guys, I hate to interrupt the conversation but take it from a retired pro. Never pry the piston back by putting pressure on the disc. The proper way is to pivot the caliper up, put a "C"-clamp on the old pad, open the bleeder, crank back the piston by applying the c-clamp pressure against the old pad, when the piston is all the way in close the bleeder. Never push the old, contaminated fluid up-stream into the master cylinder just like code58 says. Also you wouldn't have to clean up the mess from an overflowing master cylinder reservoir.

Just my 2 cents

Karl

Potato - Pohtahto

contaminated fluid isn't an issue with proper fluid maintanence, and if it is the rear the fluid will probably not make it back to the master cylinder due to the length of the brake lines.

I never said anything about prying on a disk because that's not a good idea, he may have

Agreed with the C-Clamp or a caliper tool that they sell at trash auto to push on the old pad

I don't agree with the bleeder method for someone who is posting the question on a message board to see how difficult a brake job is, I've been turning wrenches for a long time and you can't tell me that you did it that way on every single customers car, most times it's rip it apart, machine the rotors and slap it back together as quick as possible to slurp up all that gravy and move on to the next job. If you did it that way on every single job I'll give you more credit than probably 90% of the rest of the techs out there and I've known many.

Not disagreeing with the method at all, it's sound but there is still a chance of someone else (not us) introducing air into the system.

Again not disagreeing with the method, I'm just disagreeing with advising an unseasoned individual to do it, no offense to the original poster, you may have more experience than I'm giving you credit for.

It's neither here nor there if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and you have basic tools you can do this brake job easily.

Well, Brix certainly has at least different views to choose from or be confused by. I hope not, Brix. I did not do brake work professionally but did work in automotive all my life and am meticulous about my work. My wife probably would raise an eyebrow, but I used to be a perfectionist and am now a recovering perfectionist. I have tried to retain the good side of perfectionism (high quality) while moving on from the bad side (difficult to please). I do know what I'm doing (have done it for way too long!) and while respecting different views than mine, I stand by my original answers to Brix.

Concerning the Bold, not gonna happen as long as the cap is left LOOSE.

Good Luck Brix with whatever you decide! :)

[BRIXZ28]

It's me again the one who started all of this..... I have changed out a few Gm & Ford brakes but never had to bleed any lines.

we just bought this RX330 about 3 months ago & I like to do alot of misc. maintenace myself but really never worked on

Lexus cars & wanted to know if this was something that the dealer had to do.I really thank you for all of the imput!!!!

Went to my local Oreilly auto & p/u some pads & the guy said I need this special tool kit to push the piston back in b/c the

c clamp wont work.I was planning on doing this tonight. Dosen't the fluid move back toward the mc when the brakes are applied?

If I dont crack the bleed valve we shouldn't have any air in the system.What I have done in the past was remove the mc cap when

pushing the piston in very slowly.That might be wrong but seemed to work. Again thanks for all the help...I need to get this done a.s.ap b/c we are leaving Friday.

[code58]

:) XXX

[code58]

It's me again the one who started all of this..... I have changed out a few Gm & Ford brakes but never had to bleed any lines.

we just bought this RX330 about 3 months ago & I like to do alot of misc. maintenace myself but really never worked on

Lexus cars & wanted to know if this was something that the dealer had to do.I really thank you for all of the imput!!!!

Went to my local Oreilly auto & p/u some pads & the guy said I need this special tool kit to push the piston back in b/c the

c clamp wont work.I was planning on doing this tonight. Dosen't the fluid move back toward the mc when the brakes are applied?

If I dont crack the bleed valve we shouldn't have any air in the system.What I have done in the past was remove the mc cap when

pushing the piston in very slowly.That might be wrong but seemed to work. Again thanks for all the help...I need to get this done a.s.ap b/c we are leaving Friday.

Brix- No, the fluid moves FROM the master cylinder, not back to it. In drum brakes, it did move a little bit back to the MC from the wheel cylinders but with discs, there is virtually NO movement back because the pads ride against the rotors and there is nothing to retract them like the springs in drum brakes. They ride against the rotors all the time, and are just PRESSED against the rotors by the master cylinder pressure when you apply the brakes. Different animal than drum brakes.

I have no idea what the guy at Orielly's was talking about (and I'm not sure he did either). I have changed them on the rear of my DIL's '99RX and it certainly didn't require any special tool. That's why I told you to do it the way I did, when the piston is retracted all the way BEFORE you ever take the 1st. bolt out, when you take the caliper off and remove the old, you're all set to install the new. I've been doing mechanical work for over 50 yrs. and it's not theory I'm sharing, It's experience. They way I explained is the EASIEST way that I have ever found to do it, and IT DOES WORK. Good Luck!

[Karl K]

<Quote> I have no idea what the guy at Orielly's was talking about

He is talking about a special tool that's required to push the piston back when you have a caliper with integral handbrake mechanism which is not the case on Lexus.

BTW, nice instructions code58

Karl

[GSinFL]

while you force the caliper inboard with the other hand. Immediately when the caliper bottoms out, close the bleed screw. That way you're not pushing the fluid back upstream (not good) and you can remove the old pads and insert the new pads.

what's so wrong with pushing the fluid back upstream, it is a negligible amount of fluid and if proper fluid maint has been done or will be done later in regards to flushing then there is no need to open the bleeder. If you open the bleeder with one hand try and compress the piston on the caliper with the other hand and close the bleeder before you introduce air into the system I think you might want to reconsider.

with every car or truck that I've ever done a brake job on I've always used the old pad as something to put 2 flat screw drivers on like a scissor jack and just slowly compressed the piston enough to make room for the new pads.

I'm not familiar with the abs system with the rx but pushing fluid backwards in the system really hasn't been an issue for the last 15 years at least on most other manufacturers.

If I'm wrong enlighten me.

unless you have a bad pulsation when braking you won't need to machine the rotors, keep in mind though if the rotors are not machined the pads will take a little longer to seat in to the rotor because of potential grooves etc....

I use a very similar technique, I do not open the system unless I am flushing out the old Brake fluid for new brake fluid, i do it once a year...

[code58]

<Quote> I have no idea what the guy at Orielly's was talking about

He is talking about a special tool that's required to push the piston back when you have a caliper with integral handbrake mechanism which is not the case on Lexus.

BTW, nice instructions code58

Karl

That's what puzzled me Karl. My DIL had an Acura before the RX and I know that used a special tool, I believe it was to back off the emergency brake adjustment or possibly adjust it also, but I have done rear pads on her RX so I knew it didn't require a special tool. Thanks for the clarification. I guess the difference is the Acura actually applied the pads with emergency application and the RX applies the emergency shoes on the interior of the rotor.

[lenore]

just changed my rear pads, Pushed the piston back with a C clamp and old pad. cleaned mounting surfaces, lubed the two locating pins (the upper pin is easy, the lower pin can be removed and the bore greased. Installed new pads (greased contact points) and pumped brake pedal. Job done. Took 30 minutes.... I even took a buffing pad to disk to remove residue so new pads didnt have left over from old pads. Works fine, last a long time, etc. You can adjust parking brake shoes through the outside (rubber plug on front of brake disk drum) by the way that is a lot nicer than reaching through the back.