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sightdev

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Just wondering what others use in their crankcase. I have been a believer and user of Slick 50 since early 80’s. I started using Slick 50 when they first mass marketed the product in the early 80’s (before it was a mail order) in my 1987 40k turbo ES-R Starion when it started to make turbine grinding noise. Dealer and others recommended rebuilding turbo at $1.5k which was good chunk of change for a college boy. At someone’s recommendation I tried Slick 50 and within minutes of adding Slick 50 the noise disappeared. After then I had put another hard 50k more on the same turbo before selling the car. Since then I had used Slick 50 on all cars that I have owned with great success. I started using Mobile 1 in past few years to extend the change interval but I am going to try out Syntec which was rated higher compare to Mobile 1 during the Amsoil sponsored comparison test (found the link for this forum). I guess these 4.0 V8 will last forever regardless how maintain it. I have a friend who has ’91 LS400 with almost 200k but still runs good with almost no maintenance.

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Just wondering what others use in their crankcase. I have been a believer and user of Slick 50 since early 80’s. I started using Slick 50 when they first mass marketed the product in the early 80’s (before it was a mail order) in my 1987 40k turbo ES-R Starion when it started to make turbine grinding noise. Dealer and others recommended rebuilding turbo at $1.5k which was good chunk of change for a college boy. At someone’s recommendation I tried Slick 50 and within minutes of adding Slick 50 the noise disappeared. After then I had put another hard 50k more on the same turbo before selling the car. Since then I had used Slick 50 on all cars that I have owned with great success. I started using Mobile 1 in past few years to extend the change interval but I am going to try out Syntec which was rated higher compare to Mobile 1 during the Amsoil sponsored comparison test (found the link for this forum). I guess these 4.0 V8 will last forever regardless how maintain it. I have a friend who has ’91 LS400 with almost 200k but still runs good with almost no maintenance.

Mobil One is the real deal. I use 0W-40 Europeon grade. Simply the best.

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mobil 1 5W-30 and only that. I do not like the addition of any snake oils to the mix, never found it necessary nor found it worth it.

sj

Interestingly, Slick 50 was hammered by the FTC a while back for making dubious claims about their product. Also interesting that Quaker State would imply that normal oil is not adequate!

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You all should take 15 minutes and carefully read Matthew's post at the very top of the pinned threads. Everything you wanted to know about motor oil. After you read that, I guarentee that you will never put another additive in your oil, or use anything but synthetic. Read it, it is excellent.

Denny

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  • 1 year later...

:unsure:

I heard once that some oil additives use chlorine as a cleaning agent. I am not a chemist or have any knowledge of chemistry, but heard that the chlorine can react with motor oils, or sludge, or something turning it into hydrochloric acid which can slowly eat away at metal parts...jets..bearings...thin piston rings...etc.

Does this make sense to anyone and could there be any truth in it?

Thanks

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:unsure:

I heard once that some oil additives use chlorine as a cleaning agent. I am not a chemist or have any knowledge of chemistry, but heard that the chlorine can react with motor oils, or sludge, or something turning it into hydrochloric acid which can slowly eat away at metal parts...jets..bearings...thin piston rings...etc.

Does this make sense to anyone and could there be any truth in it?

Thanks

Yes, most are a waste of money. If you buy a good oil it will have a the good additives in there; high CA, Zn, P, etc etc. Also the good oil will have a good degerent pkg in it.

Some of the oil cleaners on the mark contain; kerosene, naphthalene, xylene, acetone and isopropanol.

I remeber when Slick 50 came out and it was that "Teflon was great" blah blah. We tried Teflon on certain airframe engines (not naming them) and the surfaces with Teflon were the worst for gathering ice on them...Nice

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Just wondering what others use in their crankcase. I have been a believer and user of Slick 50 since early 80’s. I started using Slick 50 when they first mass marketed the product in the early 80’s (before it was a mail order) in my 1987 40k turbo ES-R Starion when it started to make turbine grinding noise. Dealer and others recommended rebuilding turbo at $1.5k which was good chunk of change for a college boy. At someone’s recommendation I tried Slick 50 and within minutes of adding Slick 50 the noise disappeared. After then I had put another hard 50k more on the same turbo before selling the car. Since then I had used Slick 50 on all cars that I have owned with great success. I started using Mobile 1 in past few years to extend the change interval but I am going to try out Syntec which was rated higher compare to Mobile 1 during the Amsoil sponsored comparison test (found the link for this forum). I guess these 4.0 V8 will last forever regardless how maintain it. I have a friend who has ’91 LS400 with almost 200k but still runs good with almost no maintenance.

Question here. Where were you told/read that Syntec was higher when compared to Mobil and Amsoil?

Again, not starting a war but the oil tests I have seen (un-used) say the complete opposite. I even posted some below.

-Castrol Syntec has approx 900ppm P and 950ppm Zn; along with Ca about 3,000ppm.

- Castrol Start Up has even lower numbers

- German Syntec (SLX) has about the same as normal CAstrol

- Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance (15K oil)

Zinc 1056ppm, P 1058ppm, Ca 2038ppm TBN 11.0

- Normal Mobil 1

Zinc 778 ppm, P 656ppm, Ca 2038ppm TBN 8.0

- Amsoil 5w-30 (25K oil)(what I use)

Zinc 1210, TBN 11.5, P 1280, Ca 2867

- Amsoil 5w-30 HDD (25K oil)

Zinc 1265, TBN 12.2, P 1320 Ca 3324

HT/HS (shear stable here). Higher the # the better=HTHS, viscosity index, permanent shear stability index, and temporary shear stability index

Amsoil goes from 3.5 to 4.9

Mobil: 2.61 to 3.17 (there diesel oil goes from 2.99 to is 5.11)

Castrol only find 3.7 on there diesel oil (15w-40)

VI (higher the better)= viscosity index and shear stability index

Mobil -105 to 187

Amsoil -124 to 204 (most are 180+)

Castrol - 106 to 175

So here is some data to help someone select and oil. Also higher numbers= higher the price.

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mobil 1 5W-30 and only that.  I do not like the addition of any snake oils to the mix, never found it necessary nor found it worth it.

sj

Amsoil! :chairshot: :blushing: :P :P ;) :whistles:

:cheers:

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Just wondering what others use in their crankcase. I have been a believer and user of Slick 50 since early 80’s. I started using Slick 50 when they first mass marketed the product in the early 80’s (before it was a mail order) in my 1987 40k turbo ES-R Starion when it started to make turbine grinding noise. Dealer and others recommended rebuilding turbo at $1.5k which was good chunk of change for a college boy. At someone’s recommendation I tried Slick 50 and within minutes of adding Slick 50 the noise disappeared. After then I had put another hard 50k more on the same turbo before selling the car. Since then I had used Slick 50 on all cars that I have owned with great success. I started using Mobile 1 in past few years to extend the change interval but I am going to try out Syntec which was rated higher compare to Mobile 1 during the Amsoil sponsored comparison test (found the link for this forum). I guess these 4.0 V8 will last forever regardless how maintain it. I have a friend who has ’91 LS400 with almost 200k but still runs good with almost no maintenance.

Here you go..... :whistles:

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/07/slick.htm

:cheers:

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I hate to say it, but Slick 50 is selling a bunch of crap. Slick 50 uses as its primary ingredient Teflon (DuPont) or PTFE (generic). This PTFE is in a solid powder form in a suspension not a liquid form. As you may know - oil filters are designed to remove solids so your filter is removing the PTFE from suspension which is probably causing the filter to clog prematurely. While Slick 50 indicated that the PTFE particles are small enough to pass through oil filter pores, the particle size increases under engine operating conditions which can cause pore blockage.

DuPont's own researchers have indicated that there is no benefit to adding PTFE to engine oil. To quote a statement from DuPont's own Fluoropolymers Division Product Specialist, J.F. Imbalzano said,

"Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines."

In response to Slick 50's claims of "bonding to engine components," chief chemist of Redline Synthetic Oil Company, Roy Howell, had this to say:

"... to plate Teflon on a metal needs an absolutely clean, high temperature surface, in a vacuum. Therefore, it is highly unlikely that the Teflon in Slick 50 actually plates the metal surface. In addition the Cf (Coefficient of friction) of Teflon is actually greater than the Cf of an Oil Film on Steel. Also, if the Teflon did fill in 'craters' in the steel, than it would fill in the honing of the cylinder, and the oil would not seal the piston rings."

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