Timing Belt Replacment Tutorial?

[rdragoo]

I"m getting ready to do the timing belt on my wifes 03 RX300. I have the factory service manual, but wondered if I couild learn from someone elses experience. If anyone knows of a "how to" that exists, I'd be very interested.

Thanks

[lenore]

Make sure you buy OeM Belt with timing marks on it. Will save you a tremendous amount of time.

[rdragoo]

Make sure you buy OeM Belt with timing marks on it. Will save you a tremendous amount of time.

I just bought one from NAPA. I didn't realize the OEM had marks on it. If that's the case, maybe I'll return it if the marks make the job a lot easier. Still looking for a "how to" from someone that's been there. Do I have to remove the inner fender plastic to get to the lower pulley?

[lenore]

Code58 has done the timing belt change. Yes I believe you would diffenitely have to remove the access panel on the right wheel. Sources for the timing belt are Partsgeek.com . The Mitushobisi belt is a OEM manufacturer. Another source is this one:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...playCatalogid=0

Here is what it looks like:

[lenore]

Go here and then drop to the 10th PDF file for engine mechanical. In there is the procedure for timing belt. it is starting on page 16 thru 26

Note it is under 2003 repair manual (same engine as yours) by the way the camshaft timing belt sprockets dont need to be removed, only if you are replacing the seals.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=52026

[radioactiveboyscout]

Just did the timing belt change on my wifes 99 RX300. It is not fun. If I could make one recommendation it would be to take your time and make your own position marks between the belt and the pulleys. I did this with white finger nail polish. Using the permanent notches on the pulleys helps but doesn't tell you where the belt resides on the pulley. The permanent notches on the pulley and metal guard only tell you where the pulleys reside in relation to the engine. By marking the belt to pulley with finger nail polish I found it was much easier to ensure that I got the new belt on in the exact same position the old belt came off. It's pertinent that you transfer your marks between the old belt and new belt correctly once you get it off. Best of luck to anyone doing this themselves!

BTW My wifes RX300 had 142,000 and the belt looked fine. I went ahead and changed it because we often go on long trips with this vehicle but I wouldn't have any problem letting it go much longer otherwise if I used it mostly around town. This is in light of the fact that the RX300 engine is non-interference so the belt breaking will not cause engine damage. And I verified this with multiple dealers.

[code58]

Just did the timing belt change on my wifes 99 RX300. It is not fun. If I could make one recommendation it would be to take your time and make your own position marks between the belt and the pulleys. I did this with white finger nail polish. Using the permanent notches on the pulleys helps but doesn't tell you where the belt resides on the pulley. The permanent notches on the pulley and metal guard only tell you where the pulleys reside in relation to the engine. By marking the belt to pulley with finger nail polish I found it was much easier to ensure that I got the new belt on in the exact same position the old belt came off. It's pertinent that you transfer your marks between the old belt and new belt correctly once you get it off. Best of luck to anyone doing this themselves!

BTW My wifes RX300 had 142,000 and the belt looked fine. I went ahead and changed it because we often go on long trips with this vehicle but I wouldn't have any problem letting it go much longer otherwise if I used it mostly around town. This is in light of the fact that the RX300 engine is non-interference so the belt breaking will not cause engine damage. And I verified this with multiple dealers.

radioactiveboyscout- I think I'm gonna take you at your word... and stay a long ways from you. I'm betting that you went to the parts house and got an aftermarket belt, because what Lenore was referring to in telling rdragoo to be sure and use OEM Mitsuboshi (Toyota/Lexus original equipment) belt was because they have always come with ALL pertinent marks already on the belt. Also, that they will likely long outlast the aftermarket belts.

Also, the interference vs. non-interference has been beaten to death and buried a long time ago and some pretty intelligent people on this board have come to a conclusion as to what reality is in this respect. I think it best to let you newcomers think whatever you want, rather than confusing you with the facts.

[radioactiveboyscout]

Just did the timing belt change on my wifes 99 RX300. It is not fun. If I could make one recommendation it would be to take your time and make your own position marks between the belt and the pulleys. I did this with white finger nail polish. Using the permanent notches on the pulleys helps but doesn't tell you where the belt resides on the pulley. The permanent notches on the pulley and metal guard only tell you where the pulleys reside in relation to the engine. By marking the belt to pulley with finger nail polish I found it was much easier to ensure that I got the new belt on in the exact same position the old belt came off. It's pertinent that you transfer your marks between the old belt and new belt correctly once you get it off. Best of luck to anyone doing this themselves!

BTW My wifes RX300 had 142,000 and the belt looked fine. I went ahead and changed it because we often go on long trips with this vehicle but I wouldn't have any problem letting it go much longer otherwise if I used it mostly around town. This is in light of the fact that the RX300 engine is non-interference so the belt breaking will not cause engine damage. And I verified this with multiple dealers.

radioactiveboyscout- I think I'm gonna take you at your word... and stay a long ways from you. I'm betting that you went to the parts house and got an aftermarket belt, because what Lenore was referring to in telling rdragoo to be sure and use OEM Mitsuboshi (Toyota/Lexus original equipment) belt was because they have always come with ALL pertinent marks already on the belt. Also, that they will likely long outlast the aftermarket belts.

Also, the interference vs. non-interference has been beaten to death and buried a long time ago and some pretty intelligent people on this board have come to a conclusion as to what reality is in this respect. I think it best to let you newcomers think whatever you want, rather than confusing you with the facts.

Ahh someone taking my advice. Wonderful!

As for what Lenore was referring to ...does not completely touch on what I was suggesting. If you read my post again you will see that my suggestion is to not rely on the factory timing belt marks but to actually mark the pulleys with something more readable than the pulley's timing notches. I used white fingernail polish because it does not easily rub off or wash away. You see I find that the notches are very difficult to accurately sight with the engine marks anyway. It is also unlikely the pulley timing marks will line up with engine marks anyway. And unless the individual want to set the engine to TDC, which of course isn't absolutely necessary but highly recommended, the pulley notches may not be even be pointing at the belt. Sighting the pulley marks is especially difficult when the engine is transverse mounted with one bank of cylinders against the firewall. Keep in mind that when you remove the factory belt the timing paint on it is usually worn away. If they were present they are also very unlikely to land directly on the notches in the pulley. Again, by marking the old belt and pulley you can then check the old belt against new and transfer marks if necessary. By transferring marks or at least lining the belts up to see that you didn't buy the wrong one you will be more likely to get the new belt back on the pulleys in the exact place the old one came from. Also, I would not assume that everyone visiting this forum is going to buy OEM. As most people will not, it is pertinent to transfer the marks yourself. Since this forum is about passing along information to all people and not just people that are determined to buy OEM parts I thought I would mention that detail.

As far as intelligent people concluding one thing or another. I find that the intelligence of a debater can never be used as evidence to whether something is correct or incorrect. I give you one very famous example. Albert Einstein, the father of modern physics and arguably an intelligent man could not, would not, refused to believe many of the assertions of quantum mechanics. Turns out he was wrong. Not judging what side of the camp you sit on I would be appreciative of any information that lends evidence to whether the 99 RX300 is interference or not. The majority of the research I have done indicates it is not. And I would like readers of this forum to know that I sit in that camp. Being the true skeptic that I am if someone can present evidence to me otherwise I have been known to change my mind.

Thanks for pointing out that I was not completely clear with my suggestion.

[pauljcl]

Just did the timing belt change on my wifes 99 RX300. It is not fun. If I could make one recommendation it would be to take your time and make your own position marks between the belt and the pulleys. I did this with white finger nail polish. Using the permanent notches on the pulleys helps but doesn't tell you where the belt resides on the pulley. The permanent notches on the pulley and metal guard only tell you where the pulleys reside in relation to the engine. By marking the belt to pulley with finger nail polish I found it was much easier to ensure that I got the new belt on in the exact same position the old belt came off. It's pertinent that you transfer your marks between the old belt and new belt correctly once you get it off. Best of luck to anyone doing this themselves!

BTW My wifes RX300 had 142,000 and the belt looked fine. I went ahead and changed it because we often go on long trips with this vehicle but I wouldn't have any problem letting it go much longer otherwise if I used it mostly around town. This is in light of the fact that the RX300 engine is non-interference so the belt breaking will not cause engine damage. And I verified this with multiple dealers.

radioactiveboyscout- I think I'm gonna take you at your word... and stay a long ways from you. I'm betting that you went to the parts house and got an aftermarket belt, because what Lenore was referring to in telling rdragoo to be sure and use OEM Mitsuboshi (Toyota/Lexus original equipment) belt was because they have always come with ALL pertinent marks already on the belt. Also, that they will likely long outlast the aftermarket belts.

Also, the interference vs. non-interference has been beaten to death and buried a long time ago and some pretty intelligent people on this board have come to a conclusion as to what reality is in this respect. I think it best to let you newcomers think whatever you want, rather than confusing you with the facts.

Ahh someone taking my advice. Wonderful!

As for what Lenore was referring to ...does not completely touch on what I was suggesting. If you read my post again you will see that my suggestion is to not rely on the factory timing belt marks but to actually mark the pulleys with something more readable than the pulley's timing notches. I used white fingernail polish because it does not easily rub off or wash away. You see I find that the notches are very difficult to accurately sight with the engine marks anyway. It is also unlikely the pulley timing marks will line up with engine marks anyway. And unless the individual want to set the engine to TDC, which of course isn't absolutely necessary but highly recommended, the pulley notches may not be even be pointing at the belt. Sighting the pulley marks is especially difficult when the engine is transverse mounted with one bank of cylinders against the firewall. Keep in mind that when you remove the factory belt the timing paint on it is usually worn away. If they were present they are also very unlikely to land directly on the notches in the pulley. Again, by marking the old belt and pulley you can then check the old belt against new and transfer marks if necessary. By transferring marks or at least lining the belts up to see that you didn't buy the wrong one you will be more likely to get the new belt back on the pulleys in the exact place the old one came from. Also, I would not assume that everyone visiting this forum is going to buy OEM. As most people will not, it is pertinent to transfer the marks yourself. Since this forum is about passing along information to all people and not just people that are determined to buy OEM parts I thought I would mention that detail.

As far as intelligent people concluding one thing or another. I find that the intelligence of a debater can never be used as evidence to whether something is correct or incorrect. I give you one very famous example. Albert Einstein, the father of modern physics and arguably an intelligent man could not, would not, refused to believe many of the assertions of quantum mechanics. Turns out he was wrong. Not judging what side of the camp you sit on I would be appreciative of any information that lends evidence to whether the 99 RX300 is interference or not. The majority of the research I have done indicates it is not. And I would like readers of this forum to know that I sit in that camp. Being the true skeptic that I am if someone can present evidence to me otherwise I have been known to change my mind.

Thanks for pointing out that I was not completely clear with my suggestion.

Of course, everything is relative. But the proof of the pudding, so to speak, is whether anyone has had a timing belt fail (in an RX) and whether engine damage due to interference resulted. I was warned by the dealer of risk of major problems (i.e. engine was interference) and changed the timing belt after the car had 60K miles (six years, as recommended by Lexus Manual), on the theory that it is not only use but also the effluxion of time that deteriorates the material. Reading various postings, I have come to the conclusion that it was not really needed, since the posts have commented on the exceptionally resistant nature of the timing belt and its remarkably good condition after miles in the six figures. Back to interference engine or not for the RX: has anyone had a timing belt break or problem that cause dthe engine to damage (interference)? If not, one can conclude that either timing belts never break, or else that the engine is non-interference.

[lenore]

I believe the debate is because the previous 1mze engine (before the RX300) was a non interference but when the VVTi cams came in they became interference especially at higher RPM. The earlier version of the 1mze did not have the VVTi cam timing....

[pauljcl]

I believe the debate is because the previous 1mze engine (before the RX300) was a non interference but when the VVTi cams came in they became interference especially at higher RPM. The earlier version of the 1mze did not have the VVTi cam timing....

Lenore: you are probably correct. Has anyone had / or had someone they know have / an interference engine problem in a RX300 because of a failed timing belt?

[code58]

'lenore' date='May 20 2009, 08:48 AM' post='372293']

Code58 has done the timing belt change. Yes I believe you would diffenitely have to remove the access panel on the right wheel. Sources for the timing belt are Partsgeek.com . The Mitushobisi belt is a OEM manufacturer.

Lenore- Not very timely, but I wanted you to know I communicated with rdragoo directly with a detailed list of tips that I hope made the job easier for him, if he has done the job. Roger

[code58]

I believe the debate is because the previous 1mze engine (before the RX300) was a non interference but when the VVTi cams came in they became interference especially at higher RPM. The earlier version of the 1mze did not have the VVTi cam timing....

Lenore: you are probably correct. Has anyone had / or had someone they know have / an interference engine problem in a RX300 because of a failed timing belt?

Paul- I believe I have asked that question before and not gotten an answer. I truly wish if someone had that they would post their experience. PLEASE understand that this is the RX with the 1MZ-FE engine. I have read of other Lexus TB's braking, but not 1MZ-FE in the RX. Refer to GATES site for "interference or non-interference engines" It lists those particular engines as INTERFERENCE. Only talking about the RX ('98 build as a '99-up) with the 1MZ-FE engine which is VVTi.

[code58]

Just did the timing belt change on my wifes 99 RX300. It is not fun. If I could make one recommendation it would be to take your time and make your own position marks between the belt and the pulleys. I did this with white finger nail polish. Using the permanent notches on the pulleys helps but doesn't tell you where the belt resides on the pulley. The permanent notches on the pulley and metal guard only tell you where the pulleys reside in relation to the engine. By marking the belt to pulley with finger nail polish I found it was much easier to ensure that I got the new belt on in the exact same position the old belt came off. It's pertinent that you transfer your marks between the old belt and new belt correctly once you get it off. Best of luck to anyone doing this themselves!

BTW My wifes RX300 had 142,000 and the belt looked fine. I went ahead and changed it because we often go on long trips with this vehicle but I wouldn't have any problem letting it go much longer otherwise if I used it mostly around town. This is in light of the fact that the RX300 engine is non-interference so the belt breaking will not cause engine damage. And I verified this with multiple dealers.

radioactiveboyscout- I think I'm gonna take you at your word... and stay a long ways from you. I'm betting that you went to the parts house and got an aftermarket belt, because what Lenore was referring to in telling rdragoo to be sure and use OEM Mitsuboshi (Toyota/Lexus original equipment) belt was because they have always come with ALL pertinent marks already on the belt. Also, that they will likely long outlast the aftermarket belts.

Also, the interference vs. non-interference has been beaten to death and buried a long time ago and some pretty intelligent people on this board have come to a conclusion as to what reality is in this respect. I think it best to let you newcomers think whatever you want, rather than confusing you with the facts.

Ahh someone taking my advice. Wonderful!

As for what Lenore was referring to ...does not completely touch on what I was suggesting. If you read my post again you will see that my suggestion is to not rely on the factory timing belt marks but to actually mark the pulleys with something more readable than the pulley's timing notches. I used white fingernail polish because it does not easily rub off or wash away. You see I find that the notches are very difficult to accurately sight with the engine marks anyway. It is also unlikely the pulley timing marks will line up with engine marks anyway. And unless the individual want to set the engine to TDC, which of course isn't absolutely necessary but highly recommended, the pulley notches may not be even be pointing at the belt. Sighting the pulley marks is especially difficult when the engine is transverse mounted with one bank of cylinders against the firewall. Keep in mind that when you remove the factory belt the timing paint on it is usually worn away. If they were present they are also very unlikely to land directly on the notches in the pulley. Again, by marking the old belt and pulley you can then check the old belt against new and transfer marks if necessary. By transferring marks or at least lining the belts up to see that you didn't buy the wrong one you will be more likely to get the new belt back on the pulleys in the exact place the old one came from. Also, I would not assume that everyone visiting this forum is going to buy OEM. As most people will not, it is pertinent to transfer the marks yourself. Since this forum is about passing along information to all people and not just people that are determined to buy OEM parts I thought I would mention that detail.

As far as intelligent people concluding one thing or another. I find that the intelligence of a debater can never be used as evidence to whether something is correct or incorrect. I give you one very famous example. Albert Einstein, the father of modern physics and arguably an intelligent man could not, would not, refused to believe many of the assertions of quantum mechanics. Turns out he was wrong. Not judging what side of the camp you sit on I would be appreciative of any information that lends evidence to whether the 99 RX300 is interference or not. The majority of the research I have done indicates it is not. And I would like readers of this forum to know that I sit in that camp. Being the true skeptic that I am if someone can present evidence to me otherwise I have been known to change my mind.

Thanks for pointing out that I was not completely clear with my suggestion.

RABS- Am still scratching my head about your statements about the timing marks (both on the belts and on the gears). I have had all of that area apart 3 times on my DIL's RX and not once found that any of the marks were anywhere but where they should be. There were reasons why I have had it apart 3 times (over 30k mi.) that had nothing to do with the work that was done. (developed an occasional squeal at 27k mi. on the new belt) Not wanting my DIL to have problems with it because she lives a very busy life and needs the car, I went back in and replaced W/P, top and bottom idler or tension pulleys and the belt. Never did discover what the occasional squeal was but I suspicion what it was. I replaced the "Goodyear Gatorback" belt that I installed at 97k mi. because I wasn't happy with what it looked like (the original belt looked better at 97k mi.), hence my feeling about using aftermarket parts. I turned the crank to TDC before I started, just as the factory manual says to and ALL marks lined up just as they are supposed to. That way, I don't have to mark anything before I remove it.

I am also curious as to whether you have done a survey on what people use for a replacement timing belt or if you just made that assumption.

Lastly, I would suggest you go to the "Gates" online reference chart concerning these specific years of the RX with the 1MZ-FE engine and tell me what it says. There has been a lot of confusion on this subject (interference vs non-interference), but I'm wondering if you are willing to take responsibility (as you should) for someone losing an engine should they break a timing belt when they took your firm position as gospel. That's something to think about.

[lenore]

'lenore' date='May 20 2009, 08:48 AM' post='372293']

Code58 has done the timing belt change. Yes I believe you would diffenitely have to remove the access panel on the right wheel. Sources for the timing belt are Partsgeek.com . The Mitushobisi belt is a OEM manufacturer.

Lenore- Not very timely, but I wanted you to know I communicated with rdragoo directly with a detailed list of tips that I hope made the job easier for him, if he has done the job. Roger

thanks roger, I am going to do mine next time, especially since I did the Sequoia one. I helped my neighbor do his on the highlander when we rebuilt the engine....

[code58]

'lenore' date='May 20 2009, 08:48 AM' post='372293']

Code58 has done the timing belt change. Yes I believe you would diffenitely have to remove the access panel on the right wheel. Sources for the timing belt are Partsgeek.com . The Mitushobisi belt is a OEM manufacturer.

Lenore- Not very timely, but I wanted you to know I communicated with rdragoo directly with a detailed list of tips that I hope made the job easier for him, if he has done the job. Roger

thanks roger, I am going to do mine next time, especially since I did the Sequoia one. I helped my neighbor do his on the highlander when we rebuilt the engine....

Yea Lenore, but you cheated, you had that thing on an engine stand. I took all the pictures when I cut the parts that I removed from my DIL's RX apart the last time, but I still am technologically disadvantaged about thumbnailing and posting them. I wanted to share what I learned from that experience, but maybe someday when I find some of those 48 hr days. I think it would benefit some of those regulars here even as well as those coming asking for advise. If you remember, I was concerned about a squeal that had come up occasionally in the immediate time before I replaced all of those components. The squeal had nothing to do with the experience of the drive belt squeal that I had dealt with several months earlier.

I hope rdragoo was able to benefit from the tips, I did it back when you mentioned I had done it (3 times, no less!). I passed along tips that I wish I had known when I did it the 1st. time. It's not really that bad (yea, I can say that now! ) I communicated with him by e-mail because the list was rather lengthy.

Appreciated your post on General on F-150 online!

[radioactiveboyscout]

Just did the timing belt change on my wifes 99 RX300. It is not fun. If I could make one recommendation it would be to take your time and make your own position marks between the belt and the pulleys. I did this with white finger nail polish. Using the permanent notches on the pulleys helps but doesn't tell you where the belt resides on the pulley. The permanent notches on the pulley and metal guard only tell you where the pulleys reside in relation to the engine. By marking the belt to pulley with finger nail polish I found it was much easier to ensure that I got the new belt on in the exact same position the old belt came off. It's pertinent that you transfer your marks between the old belt and new belt correctly once you get it off. Best of luck to anyone doing this themselves!

BTW My wifes RX300 had 142,000 and the belt looked fine. I went ahead and changed it because we often go on long trips with this vehicle but I wouldn't have any problem letting it go much longer otherwise if I used it mostly around town. This is in light of the fact that the RX300 engine is non-interference so the belt breaking will not cause engine damage. And I verified this with multiple dealers.

radioactiveboyscout- I think I'm gonna take you at your word... and stay a long ways from you. I'm betting that you went to the parts house and got an aftermarket belt, because what Lenore was referring to in telling rdragoo to be sure and use OEM Mitsuboshi (Toyota/Lexus original equipment) belt was because they have always come with ALL pertinent marks already on the belt. Also, that they will likely long outlast the aftermarket belts.

Also, the interference vs. non-interference has been beaten to death and buried a long time ago and some pretty intelligent people on this board have come to a conclusion as to what reality is in this respect. I think it best to let you newcomers think whatever you want, rather than confusing you with the facts.

Ahh someone taking my advice. Wonderful!

As for what Lenore was referring to ...does not completely touch on what I was suggesting. If you read my post again you will see that my suggestion is to not rely on the factory timing belt marks but to actually mark the pulleys with something more readable than the pulley's timing notches. I used white fingernail polish because it does not easily rub off or wash away. You see I find that the notches are very difficult to accurately sight with the engine marks anyway. It is also unlikely the pulley timing marks will line up with engine marks anyway. And unless the individual want to set the engine to TDC, which of course isn't absolutely necessary but highly recommended, the pulley notches may not be even be pointing at the belt. Sighting the pulley marks is especially difficult when the engine is transverse mounted with one bank of cylinders against the firewall. Keep in mind that when you remove the factory belt the timing paint on it is usually worn away. If they were present they are also very unlikely to land directly on the notches in the pulley. Again, by marking the old belt and pulley you can then check the old belt against new and transfer marks if necessary. By transferring marks or at least lining the belts up to see that you didn't buy the wrong one you will be more likely to get the new belt back on the pulleys in the exact place the old one came from. Also, I would not assume that everyone visiting this forum is going to buy OEM. As most people will not, it is pertinent to transfer the marks yourself. Since this forum is about passing along information to all people and not just people that are determined to buy OEM parts I thought I would mention that detail.

As far as intelligent people concluding one thing or another. I find that the intelligence of a debater can never be used as evidence to whether something is correct or incorrect. I give you one very famous example. Albert Einstein, the father of modern physics and arguably an intelligent man could not, would not, refused to believe many of the assertions of quantum mechanics. Turns out he was wrong. Not judging what side of the camp you sit on I would be appreciative of any information that lends evidence to whether the 99 RX300 is interference or not. The majority of the research I have done indicates it is not. And I would like readers of this forum to know that I sit in that camp. Being the true skeptic that I am if someone can present evidence to me otherwise I have been known to change my mind.

Thanks for pointing out that I was not completely clear with my suggestion.

RABS- Am still scratching my head about your statements about the timing marks (both on the belts and on the gears). I have had all of that area apart 3 times on my DIL's RX and not once found that any of the marks were anywhere but where they should be. There were reasons why I have had it apart 3 times (over 30k mi.) that had nothing to do with the work that was done. (developed an occasional squeal at 27k mi. on the new belt) Not wanting my DIL to have problems with it because she lives a very busy life and needs the car, I went back in and replaced W/P, top and bottom idler or tension pulleys and the belt. Never did discover what the occasional squeal was but I suspicion what it was. I replaced the "Goodyear Gatorback" belt that I installed at 97k mi. because I wasn't happy with what it looked like (the original belt looked better at 97k mi.), hence my feeling about using aftermarket parts. I turned the crank to TDC before I started, just as the factory manual says to and ALL marks lined up just as they are supposed to. That way, I don't have to mark anything before I remove it.

I am also curious as to whether you have done a survey on what people use for a replacement timing belt or if you just made that assumption.

Lastly, I would suggest you go to the "Gates" online reference chart concerning these specific years of the RX with the 1MZ-FE engine and tell me what it says. There has been a lot of confusion on this subject (interference vs non-interference), but I'm wondering if you are willing to take responsibility (as you should) for someone losing an engine should they break a timing belt when they took your firm position as gospel. That's something to think about.

Code58- I don't think I need to explain to you again the details of my post. It is obvious now that you are being obtuse/argumentative. It was not my intent to try to lure a forum lurker in to spar with. You can either take my advice or not as I think it makes changing the timing belt much easier.

Gates is a manufacturer of belts and hoses. If you would rather believe a third party over the manufacturer of the vehicle that is your business. As I've said, my post was meant to be constructive to help people trying to perform a difficult job. You said yourself that you were going to take my advice and steer clear. Why not do that starting now?

[artbuc]

Hi radioactive. I have been reading this thread with great interest. I wasn't going to chime in but I think I will at this point. Code58 is not a lurker interested in sparing and I have never found him to be the least bit argumentative or obtuse. He is one of the most, if not the most, knowledegable people on this forum. He gives his time unselfishly to help people by posting great detail and showing great patience. He has even driven to stranger's homes to fix their cars gratis out of good old-fashioned kindness. Your posts have a certain edge about them which isn't pleasant. Perhaps you should reread them and do some self-reflection.

I can give you many examples of wrong info coming from Lexus & Toyota dealerships so I would urge you not to automatically believe anything they say, especially over a global manufacturing expert such as Gates. BTW, the Gates TB does have marks on it and so does Dayco. You would have to buy a pretty cheap TB to get one without locating marks. I have done two TB replacements on the 1MZFE engine. I think your suggestion of adding locating marks is a waste of time but if it helped you I'm all for it.

[code58]

Hi radioactive. I have been reading this thread with great interest. I wasn't going to chime in but I think I will at this point. Code58 is not a lurker interested in sparing and I have never found him to be the least bit argumentative or obtuse. He is one of the most, if not the most, knowledegable people on this forum. He gives his time unselfishly to help people by posting great detail and showing great patience. He has even driven to stranger's homes to fix their cars gratis out of good old-fashioned kindness. Your posts have a certain edge about them which isn't pleasant. Perhaps you should reread them and do some self-reflection.

I can give you many examples of wrong info coming from Lexus & Toyota dealerships so I would urge you not to automatically believe anything they say, especially over a global manufacturing expert such as Gates. BTW, the Gates TB does have marks on it and so does Dayco. You would have to buy a pretty cheap TB to get one without locating marks. I have done two TB replacements on the 1MZFE engine. I think your suggestion of adding locating marks is a waste of time but if it helped you I'm all for it.

Thank you Artbuc- I'm done now for pretty obvious reasons.

[lenore]

'lenore' date='May 20 2009, 08:48 AM' post='372293']

Code58 has done the timing belt change. Yes I believe you would diffenitely have to remove the access panel on the right wheel. Sources for the timing belt are Partsgeek.com . The Mitushobisi belt is a OEM manufacturer.

Lenore- Not very timely, but I wanted you to know I communicated with rdragoo directly with a detailed list of tips that I hope made the job easier for him, if he has done the job. Roger

thanks roger, I am going to do mine next time, especially since I did the Sequoia one. I helped my neighbor do his on the highlander when we rebuilt the engine....

Yea Lenore, but you cheated, you had that thing on an engine stand. I took all the pictures when I cut the parts that I removed from my DIL's RX apart the last time, but I still am technologically disadvantaged about thumbnailing and posting them. I wanted to share what I learned from that experience, but maybe someday when I find some of those 48 hr days. I think it would benefit some of those regulars here even as well as those coming asking for advise. If you remember, I was concerned about a squeal that had come up occasionally in the immediate time before I replaced all of those components. The squeal had nothing to do with the experience of the drive belt squeal that I had dealt with several months earlier.

I hope rdragoo was able to benefit from the tips, I did it back when you mentioned I had done it (3 times, no less!). I passed along tips that I wish I had known when I did it the 1st. time. It's not really that bad (yea, I can say that now! ) I communicated with him by e-mail because the list was rather lengthy.

Appreciated your post on General on F-150 online!

Thanks Roger, Yea the response on CL site was interesting, than they shut it down and then re opened that forum....yes do timing belt on engine stand is kind of cheating (big time)

[lexus114]

Just did the timing belt change on my wifes 99 RX300. It is not fun. If I could make one recommendation it would be to take your time and make your own position marks between the belt and the pulleys. I did this with white finger nail polish. Using the permanent notches on the pulleys helps but doesn't tell you where the belt resides on the pulley. The permanent notches on the pulley and metal guard only tell you where the pulleys reside in relation to the engine. By marking the belt to pulley with finger nail polish I found it was much easier to ensure that I got the new belt on in the exact same position the old belt came off. It's pertinent that you transfer your marks between the old belt and new belt correctly once you get it off. Best of luck to anyone doing this themselves!

BTW My wifes RX300 had 142,000 and the belt looked fine. I went ahead and changed it because we often go on long trips with this vehicle but I wouldn't have any problem letting it go much longer otherwise if I used it mostly around town. This is in light of the fact that the RX300 engine is non-interference so the belt breaking will not cause engine damage. And I verified this with multiple dealers.

Not so radio,the vvt-i motor is interference.Only the non vvt-i is not.

1MZ-FE:

-3.0L

-aluminum alloy block

-lightweight internals

-OBD 2

-returnless fuel system 97+

-non interference for non-VVTi, interference for VVTi

-COP ignition

-multiport fuel injection

-forged powdered metal fracture split connecting rod

-drive by wire certain models/years

-engine hp/trq (several revisions)

*94-96: 188hp @ 5200rpm / 203ftlb @ 4400rpm

*97+: 192hp @ 5300rpm / 209ftlb @ 4400rpm

*97+ (solara specific): 200hp @ 5200rpm / 214lbft @ 4400rpm (gains from improved exhaust/intake plumbing)

*99+ with VVTi: 210hp @ 5800rpm / 220ftlb @ 4400rpm

-found in USDM

*94-06 Toyota Camry

*99-03 Toyota Solara

*97-01 Lexus ES 300

*99-03 Lexus RX 300

*95-04 Toyota Avalon

*98-03 Toyota Sienna

-vehicles with VVTi 1mzfe

*03-06 Toyota Camry

*00-04 Toyota Avalon

*01-03 Toyota Highlander

*99-01 Lexus ES 300

*99-03 Lexus RX 300

*01-03 Toyota Sienna