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What Type Of Code Scanner Should I Get


davidditt

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I have one from Harbor Freight for $39 (although I notice it's $49 now). Doesn't even need batteries. It just reads codes and can clear them. Can also read some rudimentary emissions data. The more expensive readers interact with software to diagnose real-time data collected from your running engine - probably overkill for most people but necessary for serious diagnostic work.

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I have one from Harbor Freight for $39 (although I notice it's $49 now). Doesn't even need batteries. It just reads codes and can clear them. Can also read some rudimentary emissions data. The more expensive readers interact with software to diagnose real-time data collected from your running engine - probably overkill for most people but necessary for serious diagnostic work.

Thanks. Better than the $100.00 Pep Boys wants to charge to us their unit.

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Lexus RX300 1999 Well I bought my scanner and I'm getting a PO305PD, 306pd and an 1130pd. It's running really rough but it started all at once. Could it be spark plugs? I've got 160,000 miles and I honestly don't know if they have ever been changed. Bought the car at 95,000. It was running perfect, then reallyrough with no power. I've just looked for spark plugs, can't find any, how embarassing. Must be there somewhere, I'll keep looking.

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I've had that exact same thing happen before, twice, and both times it was a faulty ignition coil. P0305 and P0306 are misfire codes, which match with the sudden roughness of the engine. You'll have to clear the codes and check for new codes as soon as the engine light comes back on... the very first code is usually the correct code and will guide you to the faulty coil pack (let's hope it's one of the front bank coil packs, for that's a super easy fix). The P1130 (and any additional code) is probably a trickle-down code that's just induced by the coil pack failure. A new coil pack is about $100 new, or you can get a used one on eBay for about 1/3 the price. I've run used ones for all my replacements and never had any problems.

As to the spark plugs, it might be time to change them, but the factory iridium plugs are pretty amazing and last for a long, long time. If you change them out, I would highly recommend using iridium plugs again. You'll never have to change them out again.

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306 was the first code Blk on Blk then the 1130. I really appriciate the help. I've just recently moved from the midwest were I had my trusted mechanics. I don't mind at all paying for their expertise, but I hate getting ripped off and every time I've been to someone out here in LA I leave with that feeling. Anyway, does the 306 code give me a specific coil or is it a trial and error sort of thing?

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There's a lot of info on here on ignition coils going out. But as a quick reference, code P0306 is a "cylinder #6 misfire". Attached is a firing diagram for the 1MZFE engine, so it's the front right coil pack... a super easy repair/replacement. I would recommend taking out this coil pack and swapping it with the middle one, then start the engine and see if the code follows it (it should show as a P0304 code if the fault follows the coil). That will tell you for sure if it's that specific coil pack or not (and also indicate for sure that it IS the coil pack that's causing the issue).

post-34901-1240955782_thumb.jpg

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I switched the #6 with the#4 and the error code went along with it. 306 to 304. By the way I could have looked forever and never found the spark plugs. Where's the distributer cap, and those things didn't look like any coil I'd ever seen before. I'm getting on ebay now and order a few.

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Exactly. It took me a second the first time I ever saw this kind of engine set up to figure it all out. There is no longer a distributor cap on this kind of ignition system, for this engine has individual ignitor coils for each spark plug (and the spark plug is deep down in the well under each ignition coil... the opening on the end of the coil slides over the tip of the plug). It's a nice design, for it puts the coil right above the spark plug and shortens the length the discharge has to flow... plus you'll never get old cracked or shorting spark plug wires again! The downfall is that you have coil packs that aren't super robust, and when they go out (and they will go out), you have to change them individually. You lucked out, though, for one of your front bank coils was the failure... they are cake to change out.

BTW, this is the seller who I've gotten my previous replacement coil packs from... and they've worked perfectly. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=120385967983

Also, someone else here on the board said you can get OEM Denso coils from Autozone for $69.99. I just checked the Autozone site and they have them listed for $79.99. If you need one right away and can't wait, that might be an option. Or if you can wait, you'll save 50%.

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I couldn't wait for my ebay parts so I went to the AutoZone this morning and bought their $79. coil. Put in on in the parking lot in about two minutes and it runs like a charm. The 1130 error still pops up: I'll start reading through threads and see what that's all about. Thanks so much once again. Fixing your car is better than....

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Totally understand... sometimes getting the part immediately is the "best deal". Pretty hard to wait for a part if it's your primary vehicle.

The 1130 code may still pop up for a while until the system settles back down and readjusts/recalibrates (usually in about 20 miles of open driving... enough time to get everything up to temp and running consistently in balance). I would just clear the codes, drive it for a while and keep an eye on it. If the 1130 code pops on more than a couple extra times, then it would be time to start giving some merit to it.

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  • 2 weeks later...
My local AutoZone says they don't do the scans anymore. they did say they had a scanner that I could purchase. Any idea's what a decent scanner for personal use would cost. And any favorite models etc.

Thanks

You could buy v-checker, it will give you code and info also. Here is the link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350102-V-Checker-OBD2-Scanner-with-LCD-Screen_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4506Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem1c08bd2e85QQitemZ

120405700229QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fToolsQQsalenotsupported

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  • 2 weeks later...
My local AutoZone says they don't do the scans anymore. they did say they had a scanner that I could purchase. Any idea's what a decent scanner for personal use would cost. And any favorite models etc.

Thanks

--------------------------------------

With the cost of Auto Repair( Especially LEXUS ) these days, ... $ 1000 is not out of the average.

I decided not to scrimp on a SCANNER !!!

[[Telling a mechanic a scan code and that you have and know how to use a scanner;

is a way to have him know you appreciate his skills and he will likely do only what you need.]]

Based on what a really good Transmission Service Uses ( They race.)

and online research... I chose:

Equues

INNOVA

Didital Can OBD 2 & 1

Scan Tool

Model 3140

http://www.equus.com/product_info.php?prod...egory_id=1_10_7

You can get it for $ 250 I think.

Works on alot of cars.

Works while on the road.

Really versatile.

Good manual..

Since it has alot of features ... it does takes a learning curve.

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