Cluster Repair - A Success

[e.k.]

Hey guys. So I pulled off this instructional information on repairing the instrument cluster's frequent problems (lighting and gauges not working). It turns out there are 3 capacitors that commonly go out. I replaced the three capacitors and checked it out. The lights come on great (success), my fuel gauge works (finally), but my tachometer doesn't work at all (still).

Does anyone know which capacitor controls the tachometer? I thought it would be the same as the speedometer.

[CUMan]

The tachometer problem is not usually associated with the bad capacitors. Also, it seems to be common for both the tachometer and the speedometer to exhibit the same problem. Namely, they are slow to move off zero when the weather is hot.

The sticking tachometer and speedometer needles are caused by a lubricant which is on the stops where the needles rest at zero. This lubricant apparently liquifies when the weather gets hot and creates a vaccum between the needles and the stops. This prevents the needles from moving temporarily. You can usually get them to move by rapping on the dash above the needles.

The fix is to remove this lubricant from the needles and the stops. A Q-tip with a bit of solvent on it (window cleaner, perhaps) would likely do the job.

My 93 has the same problem. I just haven't got around to fixing it. My dash does get rapped on a lot.

[17LexusOwner]

Thanks for mentioning that CUMan. I have the same problem.

Except my tach doesn't work sometimes in the cold or the heat. But after driving awhile it's fine.

Lube issue? If so i'm gonna go get some KY.... :)

[CUMan]

Thanks for mentioning that CUMan. I have the same problem.

Except my tach doesn't work sometimes in the cold or the heat. But after driving awhile it's fine.

Lube issue? If so i'm gonna go get some KY.... :)

I think the general conclusion of the ones who diagnosed this problem was that the lubricant was causing the problem. The needles quit sticking when the lubricant was removed.

My needles never stick in the winter. Of course, our weather in Alabama is a lot different from yours in Minnesota.

[e.k.]

All three of my gauges weren't working properly

Tachometer - Nothing at all (it didn't matter hot or cold. the only time I saw it working was once when I revved it in neutral, that's it)

Speedometer - Sometimes it worked sometimes it didn't

Fuel Gauge - Always on E

There was a forum I saved posted by cole that suggested replacing 3 capacitors. After replacing them, everything works except for the tachometer. I'll try to check out on that lube job. Hopefully it fixes the problem. I don't think it will because prior to me soldering the capacitors, tapping on my dash did absolutely nothing for it.

[e.k.]

I stand corrected on this. Used my car 4 times today. On the last time, the speedometer wasn't working at all. So apparently, the only things replacing the capacitors fixed were the back lighting and the fuel gauge.

[Marklouis]

The tachometer problem is not usually associated with the bad capacitors. Also, it seems to be common for both the tachometer and the speedometer to exhibit the same problem. Namely, they are slow to move off zero when the weather is hot.

The sticking tachometer and speedometer needles are caused by a lubricant which is on the stops where the needles rest at zero. This lubricant apparently liquifies when the weather gets hot and creates a vaccum between the needles and the stops. This prevents the needles from moving temporarily. You can usually get them to move by rapping on the dash above the needles.

The fix is to remove this lubricant from the needles and the stops. A Q-tip with a bit of solvent on it (window cleaner, perhaps) would likely do the job.

My 93 has the same problem. I just haven't got around to fixing it. My dash does get rapped on a lot.

how funny! had to smack my dash before i took off to Birmingham to attend a Chris Botti concert at the Civic Center. it was pretty awesome! B-hams concert hall Blows Huntsvilles away!

Good to know there is a fix for the Speedo problem!

[e.k.]

I've attached the posting from this site on replacing the capacitors. reread it twice. it actually says that replacing the capacitors will fix the back light and the fuel gauge problems only.

Lexus_Circuit_Board_Repair.pdf

[tofu]

The tachometer problem is not usually associated with the bad capacitors. Also, it seems to be common for both the tachometer and the speedometer to exhibit the same problem. Namely, they are slow to move off zero when the weather is hot.

The sticking tachometer and speedometer needles are caused by a lubricant which is on the stops where the needles rest at zero. This lubricant apparently liquifies when the weather gets hot and creates a vaccum between the needles and the stops. This prevents the needles from moving temporarily. You can usually get them to move by rapping on the dash above the needles.

The fix is to remove this lubricant from the needles and the stops. A Q-tip with a bit of solvent on it (window cleaner, perhaps) would likely do the job.

My 93 has the same problem. I just haven't got around to fixing it. My dash does get rapped on a lot.

Hello CUMan, Do you have instructions how to clean the lubricant from the needles, removal the glass panel of the cluster? Thank you very much.

[CUMan]

I wish it was as easy as removing the glass (or plastic) panel, but it's not. You have to completely remove the instrument cluster from the car and then disassemble the cluster. The cluster is fairly easy to remove. There are three screws at the top that must be removed. You can then pull out the black plastic panel that is in front of the cluster. There are two connectors that must then be removed from this plastic panel. The cluster is held in place by four screws, two at the bottom and two at the top. When these are removed, you can pull the cluster forward. The problem then is disconnecting the three wiring connectors that plug into the back of the cluster. To do this, you really need three hands. One to hold the cluster, one to push down on the locking clip on the connector, and one to pull the connector out. When these connectors are removed, you can pull out the cluster.

Before removing the instrument cluster, you need to move the steering wheel as far back (toward the driver seat) as it will go and as far down as it will go. After setting the wheel in this position, remove the negative cable on the battery so there is no power to the cluster.

Disassembling the cluster is not for the faint of heart. You really need some guidance on this. You could subscribe to one of the on-line manuals for one day and download the pages that describe the steps. Or if you have access to Volume two of the Lexus service manual, it would be in there.

There is a post on CL that describes what needs to be done once you have disassembled the cluster. Look at post #59 at this thread:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400-foru...not-work-4.html

I actually did this procedure on my 93 LS this past weekend. I added a post to the thread above. My post is #78 at the following address:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400-foru...not-work-6.html

[tofu]

CUMan,

Thank you. I will give it a try soon.

[unilateral_disgust]

Hey didnt want to start a new thread for this Q so hope no one minds if i hijack this one.

The tach needle illumination is not working on my 93 ls (the needle still reads rpm i just cant see it), everything else on the dash works. Please dont tell me it means taking apart the dash to get it back :cries:

ty

david

[CUMan]

Hey didnt want to start a new thread for this Q so hope no one minds if i hijack this one.

The tach needle illumination is not working on my 93 ls (the needle still reads rpm i just cant see it), everything else on the dash works. Please dont tell me it means taking apart the dash to get it back :cries:

ty

david

Sorry to be the one who tells you; but yes, you have to remove and disassemble the cluster to repair the dark needles.

The needles have a coating on the rear which conducts power down the length of the needle, producing the lighting. Over years, this coating tends to deteriorate and crack. If the crack extends across the diameter of the needle, the lighting will stop at that point. The only fix is to replace the needle or recoat the rear of the needle with material that will restore the circuit.

The tachometer and speedometer needles on my 93 LS started going dark several years ago, at about the same time the instrument cluster refused to light up when the weather was cold. I removed the cluster and sent it to Jim Walker in Fresno, Ca. for him to do the capacitor replacement fix. While he was doing this, he also recoated the rear of the dark needles. As I recall, he charged $25.00 for each needle repair. The needles have worked fine since that time.

No one seems to know (or will divulge) what the proper material would be to recoat the needle backs. Some have mentioned the material that is used to repair broken circuitry in rear window defrosters. I have not read of anyone who has successfully done this.

[71421]

e.k, I have same problem just panel light and fuel gauge not working, can you walk me thru which capacitors and cluster panel removal/reinstall process?  thanks in advance!