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Need A Couple Of Ignition Coils


tdandkd
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I have a 1999 rx300 and just got a CEL indicating that the ignition coils in 1 and 3 are having multiple random misfires. I want to change them out but want to know if I can get an ignition coil from Toyota rather than Lexus? My local dealer is a complete rip off and would rather buy from Toyota if possible. Is this possible? If so, what part number am I looking for? I apologize if this has been answered before, I am having issues with the search function. Thanks.

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I have a 1999 rx300 and just got a CEL indicating that the ignition coils in 1 and 3 are having multiple random misfires. I want to change them out but want to know if I can get an ignition coil from Toyota rather than Lexus? My local dealer is a complete rip off and would rather buy from Toyota if possible. Is this possible? If so, what part number am I looking for? I apologize if this has been answered before, I am having issues with the search function. Thanks.

TD- the 1st thing you want to do is switch those into 2 different holes (keep track of where you switch what COP's to. Then read the codes again to see if the codes follow those COP's. TC's are a guide and not always an absolute arrow to what's wrong. Always confirm! With the price of parts, you don't want to throw parts at the wrong place (a lot of people do!) I believe if you ask for COP's for a Camry you should be OK. Toyota and Lexus parts do not often, if ever, cross over in part #'s. Done for a reason, to protect the overpriced Lexus profit margin. I checked parts #'s on www.toyodiy.com and

it was confusing without the frame #, but the actual part situation is a lot simpler than the smoke and mirrors that Toyota/Lexus makes it with the part #'s situation. When I buy from a Toyota dealer I always just say it's for a Camry, Highlander, or a similar Toyota model that uses the 1MZFE engine since they have no cross over for Lexus parts. They can look it up without you giving them the #. toyodiy has the #'s but seems a little confusing with foreign #'s possibly thrown in. Hope that helps.

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First off, Code58 is right in that you want to switch out your coils, clear your codes, and see what comes back to determine which (if either, or both) is truly bad.

For our '99 RX300 the coil pack numbers are either 90080-19016 or 90919-02234. Both should work (90080-19016 is a revision part for 90919-02234), and these parts are the same for the Toyota Highlander, so you can get them from the Toyota Dealership as well. I've always bought my replacement coils used from eBay and have never had a problem. I think I've bought from this very seller before: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=120385967983 ...the last time I did, I bought three of the coils at a time ($10 shipping on the first, $5 for each additional). That's $110 for two replacements and a spare, delivered (if two of yours are truly bad). Price from the dealer is ~$100/each new... you can find them online from places like www.toyotapartscheap.com for $73.50/each new. Your choice.

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First off, thanks for your input, it may have prevented me from spending money needlessly! Anyway, I went back and cleared the codes and drove around until the CEL came back on. The engine sounded a little rough while sitting at stop lights but I'm not sure that I heard any misfires. I got home and checked the code and got a P0171. I cleared it again and tried again, this time getting the P0171 and a pending P1150. After letting it run a few minutes, the P1150 went away and I was left with just the P0171. The engine still doesn't exactly purr, but it really doesn't sound like a misfire today. Any thoughts?

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First off, thanks for your input, it may have prevented me from spending money needlessly! Anyway, I went back and cleared the codes and drove around until the CEL came back on. The engine sounded a little rough while sitting at stop lights but I'm not sure that I heard any misfires. I got home and checked the code and got a P0171. I cleared it again and tried again, this time getting the P0171 and a pending P1150. After letting it run a few minutes, the P1150 went away and I was left with just the P0171. The engine still doesn't exactly purr, but it really doesn't sound like a misfire today. Any thoughts?

TD- Go to www.obd-codes.com and make your way to DTC codes P0100-P0199, Fuel & Air metering. I wish I could post the direct link but I'm not computer literate enough. Excellent site, gives you some tips. You haven't had the air box messed with lately have you? There is a tube that gets knocked of the back side and causes problems. Have you checked for any vacuum leaks. The code says bank 1 too lean. I would make SURE there are NO vacuum leaks. I am assuming you know how a vacuum leak makes an engine run- not very smooth when it's running lean.

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First off, thanks for your input, it may have prevented me from spending money needlessly! Anyway, I went back and cleared the codes and drove around until the CEL came back on. The engine sounded a little rough while sitting at stop lights but I'm not sure that I heard any misfires. I got home and checked the code and got a P0171. I cleared it again and tried again, this time getting the P0171 and a pending P1150. After letting it run a few minutes, the P1150 went away and I was left with just the P0171. The engine still doesn't exactly purr, but it really doesn't sound like a misfire today. Any thoughts?

TD- Go to www.obd-codes.com and make your way to DTC codes P0100-P0199, Fuel & Air metering. I wish I could post the direct link but I'm not computer literate enough. Excellent site, gives you some tips. You haven't had the air box messed with lately have you? There is a tube that gets knocked of the back side and causes problems. Have you checked for any vacuum leaks. The code says bank 1 too lean. I would make SURE there are NO vacuum leaks. I am assuming you know how a vacuum leak makes an engine run- not very smooth when it's running lean.

I checked out a couple of vacuum lines that I could find, mainly the one leading to the air filter box and the one below it. They seemed to be ok. I didn't drive the car today but I did let it warm up in the driveway and it sounded ok. No CEL. Weird. I guess I'll just have to keep driving it and wait for the problem to repeat itself as I can't seem to duplicate it reliably. If you have any other suggestions as to where to look, I'm all ears. Thank you again for your advice, it is truly appreciated.

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I've had a lot of experience with coil replacement .

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...979&hl=coil

I'd say only buy the new, 90080-19016 coils as the old ones (if you can even find them) we're supposedly changed to stave off the failures that brought us all to this point in the first place.

Also , as I mentioned in the linked post, the parts do seem to be the same across the Toyota brands and my Toyota dealer wanted $106 for them while the Lexus dealer was charging (only:O) $91. I found them for as low as the mid $70's but I wanted them right away since my rig was sidelined until I replaced them and I didn't want to wait for them to be shipped

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Sounds like you might be having a MAF issue. I'd just take the MAF out of the intake hose, then spray it out clean using an automotive electrical spray cleaner (can be found at any automotive shop). Just wear gloves and don't breathe the vapors... nasty stuff. Oh, and don't touch any of the sensors (they are buried deep in the housing). Just spray them off with the cleaner, let them dry, reassemble into your intake system and see how things run and if it makes a difference. If it does, then maybe it just needed a cleaning. If it does make a difference, but then starts to act weird again, then at least you know the problem is probably in the MAF.

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Sounds like you might be having a MAF issue. I'd just take the MAF out of the intake hose, then spray it out clean using an automotive electrical spray cleaner (can be found at any automotive shop). Just wear gloves and don't breathe the vapors... nasty stuff. Oh, and don't touch any of the sensors (they are buried deep in the housing). Just spray them off with the cleaner, let them dry, reassemble into your intake system and see how things run and if it makes a difference. If it does, then maybe it just needed a cleaning. If it does make a difference, but then starts to act weird again, then at least you know the problem is probably in the MAF.

I cleaned the MAF sensor last night, drove it today for about 3 miles before the CEL came back on. Fuel mileage seems ok, don't hear any misfires, don't know what to look at next. Maybe it is the A/F sensor but I'd rather not spend the $150 or so if that isn't it.

BTW, the only code I am seeing now is the P0171.

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Well, if cleaning the MAF didn't make a change, it could be a fuel injector issue. You could have an injector that is slightly clogged, triggering the lean code. This happened to me, and it turned out (a freak thing) that one of my connectors on an injector had cracked and was making sporadic contact issues. I doubt this is your problem, but my issue was injector related and it threw P0171 codes.

I would try getting some top-rated injector cleaner and filling that into a tank of gas. Run through the tank of gas and see how things go.

At this point, I doubt it's a bad A/F sensor, for the sensor seems to be doing it's job by telling you that you have a lean issue. The A/F mix is controlled by a combination of input from the MAF of incoming air, the CO concentration in the exhaust via sensors, and then hardware like injectors, etc. The problem is the injectors are 'dumb'... there is nothing on them to say if they are clogged, working properly, leaking, or what-not. You have to decipher problems with injectors from the readings from the surrounding sensors. They use a common-rail fuel system that is always positively pressurized, so if they leak, they'll dribble down constantly, but that would lead to a 'rich' code. Since you've got a lean code, I'm guessing they/one may be a little dirty. Try the injector cleaner and let us know what you get.

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Well, if cleaning the MAF didn't make a change, it could be a fuel injector issue. You could have an injector that is slightly clogged, triggering the lean code. This happened to me, and it turned out (a freak thing) that one of my connectors on an injector had cracked and was making sporadic contact issues. I doubt this is your problem, but my issue was injector related and it threw P0171 codes.

I would try getting some top-rated injector cleaner and filling that into a tank of gas. Run through the tank of gas and see how things go.

At this point, I doubt it's a bad A/F sensor, for the sensor seems to be doing it's job by telling you that you have a lean issue. The A/F mix is controlled by a combination of input from the MAF of incoming air, the CO concentration in the exhaust via sensors, and then hardware like injectors, etc. The problem is the injectors are 'dumb'... there is nothing on them to say if they are clogged, working properly, leaking, or what-not. You have to decipher problems with injectors from the readings from the surrounding sensors. They use a common-rail fuel system that is always positively pressurized, so if they leak, they'll dribble down constantly, but that would lead to a 'rich' code. Since you've got a lean code, I'm guessing they/one may be a little dirty. Try the injector cleaner and let us know what you get.

Well, today I got a whole bunch of codes. P0171, P300, P301, P303, P305 and P1133 pending. Why couldn't it be P302,304,306? Would make my life a lot easier! I'll get them replaced and try the injector cleaner. Any cleaner you recommend?

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Well, if cleaning the MAF didn't make a change, it could be a fuel injector issue. You could have an injector that is slightly clogged, triggering the lean code. This happened to me, and it turned out (a freak thing) that one of my connectors on an injector had cracked and was making sporadic contact issues. I doubt this is your problem, but my issue was injector related and it threw P0171 codes.

I would try getting some top-rated injector cleaner and filling that into a tank of gas. Run through the tank of gas and see how things go.

At this point, I doubt it's a bad A/F sensor, for the sensor seems to be doing it's job by telling you that you have a lean issue. The A/F mix is controlled by a combination of input from the MAF of incoming air, the CO concentration in the exhaust via sensors, and then hardware like injectors, etc. The problem is the injectors are 'dumb'... there is nothing on them to say if they are clogged, working properly, leaking, or what-not. You have to decipher problems with injectors from the readings from the surrounding sensors. They use a common-rail fuel system that is always positively pressurized, so if they leak, they'll dribble down constantly, but that would lead to a 'rich' code. Since you've got a lean code, I'm guessing they/one may be a little dirty. Try the injector cleaner and let us know what you get.

Well, today I got a whole bunch of codes. P0171, P300, P301, P303, P305 and P1133 pending. Why couldn't it be P302,304,306? Would make my life a lot easier! I'll get them replaced and try the injector cleaner. Any cleaner you recommend?

Chevron Techron is not the ONLY good one but there isn't a better one for any amount of money. Get the concentrated one- will cost you from $7. to $10. a bottle but worth every penny. Follow directions on the bottle and if that doesn't clean em up in a few miles, they're not dirty! Good luck!

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Well, if cleaning the MAF didn't make a change, it could be a fuel injector issue. You could have an injector that is slightly clogged, triggering the lean code. This happened to me, and it turned out (a freak thing) that one of my connectors on an injector had cracked and was making sporadic contact issues. I doubt this is your problem, but my issue was injector related and it threw P0171 codes.

I would try getting some top-rated injector cleaner and filling that into a tank of gas. Run through the tank of gas and see how things go.

At this point, I doubt it's a bad A/F sensor, for the sensor seems to be doing it's job by telling you that you have a lean issue. The A/F mix is controlled by a combination of input from the MAF of incoming air, the CO concentration in the exhaust via sensors, and then hardware like injectors, etc. The problem is the injectors are 'dumb'... there is nothing on them to say if they are clogged, working properly, leaking, or what-not. You have to decipher problems with injectors from the readings from the surrounding sensors. They use a common-rail fuel system that is always positively pressurized, so if they leak, they'll dribble down constantly, but that would lead to a 'rich' code. Since you've got a lean code, I'm guessing they/one may be a little dirty. Try the injector cleaner and let us know what you get.

Well, today I got a whole bunch of codes. P0171, P300, P301, P303, P305 and P1133 pending. Why couldn't it be P302,304,306? Would make my life a lot easier! I'll get them replaced and try the injector cleaner. Any cleaner you recommend?

Chevron Techron is not the ONLY good one but there isn't a better one for any amount of money. Get the concentrated one- will cost you from $7. to $10. a bottle but worth every penny. Follow directions on the bottle and if that doesn't clean em up in a few miles, they're not dirty! Good luck!

Roger, I just added two bottles of Techron Plus to my 99 Avalon (same engine as 99RX300 except no VVTi). Symptons were poor acceleration and low gas mileage. Maybe I am going nuts, but the Avalon was running remarkably better in just 5-10 miles. I had similar good results with Seafoam in the RX. I generally don't go for the snakeoil stuff, but I do believe Seafoam and Techron Plus can make a big difference depending on how fouled your injectors are.

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tdandkd, yeah, it's looking like you've got an injector issue. When I had my injector issue, it was doing the same thing... a code here or there, one with the ignition coil malfunction and another peripheral code like the lean reading. Then I'd get a big chunk of codes... then clear them, then just one or two again. They were the same codes, too... all on the back bank (heavy sigh). That was a buggar. Turned out to be the center fuel injector connection.

I replaced all injectors with remanufactured ones from Motor Man. Great price and the vehicle has run beautifully ever since.

Try the cleaner, and both Code58 and Artbuc are right on with their input. I'm a bit more reserved with the thought of adding Seafoam to my oil, though.

If the injector cleaner doesn't do much, then I'm afraid the next step is to go after replacing the injectors... and you'll want to replace them all at the same time.

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Ok I'm having what appears to be the exact same problem as tdandkd - I first got a misfire code and a bunch of others - then I reset the light and now I'm getting the lean bank 1 and a pending lean bank 2 code - Doesn't this sound similar? I think I might go for the snake oil remedy but any other suggestions are welcome.

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Well, if cleaning the MAF didn't make a change, it could be a fuel injector issue. You could have an injector that is slightly clogged, triggering the lean code. This happened to me, and it turned out (a freak thing) that one of my connectors on an injector had cracked and was making sporadic contact issues. I doubt this is your problem, but my issue was injector related and it threw P0171 codes.

I would try getting some top-rated injector cleaner and filling that into a tank of gas. Run through the tank of gas and see how things go.

At this point, I doubt it's a bad A/F sensor, for the sensor seems to be doing it's job by telling you that you have a lean issue. The A/F mix is controlled by a combination of input from the MAF of incoming air, the CO concentration in the exhaust via sensors, and then hardware like injectors, etc. The problem is the injectors are 'dumb'... there is nothing on them to say if they are clogged, working properly, leaking, or what-not. You have to decipher problems with injectors from the readings from the surrounding sensors. They use a common-rail fuel system that is always positively pressurized, so if they leak, they'll dribble down constantly, but that would lead to a 'rich' code. Since you've got a lean code, I'm guessing they/one may be a little dirty. Try the injector cleaner and let us know what you get.

Well, today I got a whole bunch of codes. P0171, P300, P301, P303, P305 and P1133 pending. Why couldn't it be P302,304,306? Would make my life a lot easier! I'll get them replaced and try the injector cleaner. Any cleaner you recommend?

Chevron Techron is not the ONLY good one but there isn't a better one for any amount of money. Get the concentrated one- will cost you from $7. to $10. a bottle but worth every penny. Follow directions on the bottle and if that doesn't clean em up in a few miles, they're not dirty! Good luck!

Roger, I just added two bottles of Techron Plus to my 99 Avalon (same engine as 99RX300 except no VVTi). Symptons were poor acceleration and low gas mileage. Maybe I am going nuts, but the Avalon was running remarkably better in just 5-10 miles. I had similar good results with Seafoam in the RX. I generally don't go for the snakeoil stuff, but I do believe Seafoam and Techron Plus can make a big difference depending on how fouled your injectors are.

Artbuc- As I've said before I worked for a major county transportation department. One of the mechanics that worked at our facility had worked at another one about a mile away. (we had 4 transportation facilities) Had a Chevy S-10 to work on that was running poorly. He had been a Ford mechanic before he came to work for us and though he was one of the very best mechanics we had, at the time he wasn't highly familiar with the S-10. He called a friend at Chevy and the friend told him to use Chevy injector cleaner ( is Techron labeled GM). He put a bottle in and said LITERALLY by the time he drove around the block, it was running smoothly. He was one honest dude so I know it was no stroke job. (he may have put it in less than a tank of gas, the reason it cleared up so quickly).

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Often times the 'lean' codes show up as a by-product of what ever is going wrong... so do some other codes like misfire codes, etc. It's hard to ween down through these peripheral codes to find what is going on, but in my experience, when it's not a bad coil pack, and it's not the MAF giving you trouble, and you aren't getting an O2 sensor failure code, then it's probably either plugs or an injector issue. Plugs having problems are rare, especially if they are iridium plugs... if they are platinums, then there are cases where the platinum tips come off and cause crappy firing. Beyond that, the problem goes to the injectors.

If one has similar symptoms as these, try the Techron injector cleaner and see what happens. If nothing, then I'd start looking at the injectors themselves. And if that's the case, they are so hard to get to (namely the back bank) that it's advisable to just buy replacements and ensure to eliminate injectors as the cause... especially on high-mileage vehicles.

BTW, Woodwardo, I see you are in the PDX area. If you get to the point you are looking for a great indie shop to use, Todd's Import Automotive in Lake-O is excellent!

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Hey thanks for the tip blkonblk - I'll definitely check them out if I need to, hopefully I won't.

I did dump a bottle of the techron injector cleaner in and haven't noticed anything yet, but then again I've only driven a few miles and the rough idling would come and go even before that.

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Anytime.

You might want to go back and clean out your MAF as recommended in the first part of this thread. That may be part of your issue, not just injectors and/or ignition coils. If/when you do clean it, if there is a noticeable change, then it could be the MAF contributing to your issues. It also wouldn't hurt to check your air filter to ensure it's clean.

BTW, you can pick up the spray automotive electrical cleaner for a good price at Bi-Mart. (red can)

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Yesterday I cleared out my codes again and everything stayed off, for the day anyway. I put a bottle of Techron in with a full tank and this morning the CEL came back. I didn't have time to check the code but it drove ok on the way to work (about 7 miles). When I left work this afternoon, the light was still on but then started to blink but only for a few seconds then went back to a solid CEL. This happened twice. I know that whenever you see a blinking CEL, the computer will not shift into overdrive, and it wouldn't. Had to take the city streets home. Once I got home I pulled the codes again. P0300, 0301, 0303, 0305, P0171 and I think either P1133 or P1153. I know that the back coils are good, I swapped them with the front ones which were replaced not too long ago. I'm at a loss on this issue. I'll try cleaning the MAF sensor again tonight but I'm really not sure what else to do at this point.

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The blinking CEL is saying, "continuing to drive the vehicle could cause damage to the engine"... and in this situation it usually shows up when you've got a misfire problem. If you are confident your coils are good, then I'd be going after the spark plugs and taking a look at those. Usually a problematic injector will trigger rich/lean conditions and other peripherals, but rarely a flashing CEL.

Are you truly confident your coils are good?

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The blinking CEL is saying, "continuing to drive the vehicle could cause damage to the engine"... and in this situation it usually shows up when you've got a misfire problem. If you are confident your coils are good, then I'd be going after the spark plugs and taking a look at those. Usually a problematic injector will trigger rich/lean conditions and other peripherals, but rarely a flashing CEL.

Are you truly confident your coils are good?

Yes, I am confident that they are good. I never had any issues with cylinder 2,4,6 which these were on. I had the same CEL codes a couple of days ago before I switched the coil packs. So, whether I use the old ones or the new ones, I get the same codes intermittently on cylinders 1,3,5. The one constant code I get is the P171. If the spark plugs were the issue, I wouldn't get a lean code, would I? Do you think all of the back spark plugs could have an issue at the same time? BTW, the car has 145,000 miles on it so I know that the spark plugs are due for a replacement. I just can't understand how the codes are for 1,3,5 all at the same time???

I also want to thank you for you help, I really do appreciate it.

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Those codes aren't happening "at the same time"... they are building up in the ECU. One code triggers, and then the others follow in a cascade effect. When something goes awry, it can trigger odd codes... not always directly corresponding to what's happening.

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