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1995 Sc400 Side View Mirrors Inop


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Hi folks, new guy here! I picked up an absolutely mint 95 SC400 recently and have run into a few minor glitches. The main thing is the mirrors, checked out the switch and it is working fine. Fuses ok. I'm thinking its a control unit under the dash, so I unplugged the ECU and then re-inserted the plugs - still a problem. Guessing I need a new mirror controller. Any thoughts and?or where I could get one? Is this pretty common? Thanks!

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Hi folks, new guy here! I picked up an absolutely mint 95 SC400 recently and have run into a few minor glitches. The main thing is the mirrors, checked out the switch and it is working fine. Fuses ok. I'm thinking its a control unit under the dash, so I unplugged the ECU and then re-inserted the plugs - still a problem. Guessing I need a new mirror controller. Any thoughts and?or where I could get one? Is this pretty common? Thanks!

Did you check the wires from the switch to the ECU?

post-51991-1237137407_thumb.jpg

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Hi folks, new guy here! I picked up an absolutely mint 95 SC400 recently and have run into a few minor glitches. The main thing is the mirrors, checked out the switch and it is working fine. Fuses ok. I'm thinking its a control unit under the dash, so I unplugged the ECU and then re-inserted the plugs - still a problem. Guessing I need a new mirror controller. Any thoughts and?or where I could get one? Is this pretty common? Thanks!

Did you check the wires from the switch to the ECU?

Yes, sure did. Everything in and out of the switch seems to be fine. Now that I have the schematic, I have a better idea when I go back in the panel. I'd hate to buy an ECU and have it not work. I'd own it then. Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it!!

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Go idea, I'll take some digital pics and post them. I just replaced the two front speakers today without tearing off the door panels. Popped the bottom panel and supported it with my arm while removing the two screws for the grilles. I saw the manuals, and they called for tearing the door panel off - not needed folks. 5 screws and a few pop trim clips and your already there. Cool. New Infinity's dropped right in and sound perfect using the Nak system in the car. Tomorrow is a search locally for trunk struts - damn thing hit me in the head today and that was it for the patience on those. :) All in all, the car is running beautifully.

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Well here's the gig. I've replaced the ECU for the mirrors and it cured the problem instantly. Got the part from "ALIGA" and installed it immediately. Was not able to pictures, my SLR wouldn't fit into the spaces with my head behind it. They didn't make an awful lot of room in there for sure. But - I do know how to tear it apart MINIMALLY so that there is not a huge production to install it. it will take some time, and a lot of patience. The culprit is the top 10mm bolt (that is also slotted for a phillips) - the bottom bolt was a breeze. I had to use a 10mm open wrench with a closed end ratchet on the the other end. They have these at Sears, my wife got me a set for Xmas years ago. Glad she did. The ratchet end swivels, and that's the important part. To keep the wrench on the bolt, I came in from the front with a 3/8" socket extension so that one end was applying pressure on the wrench and the other end was in my only free hand.

I do not recommend this fix for anyone with lower back problems, it's rough on the body.

Basically, you remove the black plastic panel under the dash and unplug the led light and twist out the diagnostics plug. Then remove the lower dash trim panel and disconnect the connections for the trunk & gas filler door. Also twist out the ignition trim ring. Next remove the metal plate behind this trim panel. Remove the sensor (or is it an ionizer for the "fresh air" thing) from the metal panel. Remove the air duct leading from the center by the radio over to the left kick panel area. (more room to work, and easy to do) You will see one screw holding the duct on at the left side. Crawl under the dash and remove the first bolt holding the ECU. The top bolt is a bugger, you'll need to get your hand up there and place a closed end on it....then come in from the front with a long socket extension to apply pressure to keep the wrench on the bolt while you break it - there's very little room for leverage so don't waste time with a phillips driver, you'll be there for hours and will wind up with a stripped head and sore hands. I saw that coming when I tried it.

There's the fix - and man what a difference. Now when hillbilly's come up behind me with their Earthmover 4500's and their headlights in my rear mirrors, or the occasional hi-beamer - I can adjust them up to prevent going blind. Anyone ever attempts this feel free to look me up and ask....I can help guide you through it.

Best regards ---

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On the trunk struts -- Lexus wants $307.00 for two. NUTS. Pep Boy's gets $14.99 each and Autozone has them for $11.99 each. Make sure they come with the ball socket & nipple for you will need them both. I grabbed mine at pep Boys since I wanted to install them right away, too many lumps on my head from the trunk lid.

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  • 2 years later...

Well here's the gig. I've replaced the ECU for the mirrors and it cured the problem instantly. Got the part from "ALIGA" and installed it immediately. Was not able to pictures, my SLR wouldn't fit into the spaces with my head behind it. They didn't make an awful lot of room in there for sure. But - I do know how to tear it apart MINIMALLY so that there is not a huge production to install it. it will take some time, and a lot of patience. The culprit is the top 10mm bolt (that is also slotted for a phillips) - the bottom bolt was a breeze. I had to use a 10mm open wrench with a closed end ratchet on the the other end. They have these at Sears, my wife got me a set for Xmas years ago. Glad she did. The ratchet end swivels, and that's the important part. To keep the wrench on the bolt, I came in from the front with a 3/8" socket extension so that one end was applying pressure on the wrench and the other end was in my only free hand.

I do not recommend this fix for anyone with lower back problems, it's rough on the body.

Basically, you remove the black plastic panel under the dash and unplug the led light and twist out the diagnostics plug. Then remove the lower dash trim panel and disconnect the connections for the trunk & gas filler door. Also twist out the ignition trim ring. Next remove the metal plate behind this trim panel. Remove the sensor (or is it an ionizer for the "fresh air" thing) from the metal panel. Remove the air duct leading from the center by the radio over to the left kick panel area. (more room to work, and easy to do) You will see one screw holding the duct on at the left side. Crawl under the dash and remove the first bolt holding the ECU. The top bolt is a bugger, you'll need to get your hand up there and place a closed end on it....then come in from the front with a long socket extension to apply pressure to keep the wrench on the bolt while you break it - there's very little room for leverage so don't waste time with a phillips driver, you'll be there for hours and will wind up with a stripped head and sore hands. I saw that coming when I tried it.

There's the fix - and man what a difference. Now when hillbilly's come up behind me with their Earthmover 4500's and their headlights in my rear mirrors, or the occasional hi-beamer - I can adjust them up to prevent going blind. Anyone ever attempts this feel free to look me up and ask....I can help guide you through it.

Best regards ---

Holy crap, I have been looking for this for almost a year now, I can't believe I never found it. I finally got my part in thanks to your instructions. You rock!

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