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Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley


AZ Mike
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After I finished with the timing belt, etc. replacement, I have one piece of hardware leftover. Due to well labeled containers, I know that it is the washer that goes under the bolt that holds the timing belt tensioner pulley in place. Of course I didn't find this until it was all put back together. Logic tells me that I get to go through this exercise all over again in order to install the washer under the bolt. Does anyone think the lack of the washer would NOT be a problem?

Crap. :censored:

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Is it part 90201-10101 is this drawing?---> http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1999_LEXU...EPGKA_1302.html

If so, looks like it might provide spacing so that the idler does not contact the block. If'n it were me, I would bite the bullet and put it in...but that's just me B)

If it were a Dodge, I would not worry about it, (or maybe it would be more critical?) :D Even if she will run, you know it will hound you if you don't make it 100% correct, don't you?

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Is it part 90201-10101 is this drawing?---> http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1999_LEXU...EPGKA_1302.html

If so, looks like it might provide spacing so that the idler does not contact the block. If'n it were me, I would bite the bullet and put it in...but that's just me B)

If it were a Dodge, I would not worry about it, (or maybe it would be more critical?) :D Even if she will run, you know it will hound you if you don't make it 100% correct, don't you?

landar;

Good call........

Looking at 90109-10128....the bolt with the shoulder on it. The shoulder is probably ever so slightly longer than the length of the bore through the Idler sub-assembly (13505). If that is the case (moderately good sized question), then the Idler sub-assembly should be free to float/rotate as intended. It would be closer to the block by the thickness (lack of) of the washer as you state. The T/B tensioner (13540) exerts a tremendous amount of force against the idler, and I'd still bet money the idler rotates freely.

However, I agree with you. At the end of the day, if something likes this goes haywire on a VVTI........it's curtains.

Mike: If you're a gambler, leave it alone. Otherwise, I agree w/landar.

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I concur. At least now I know exactly what comes apart where. It should be a much quicker job on Saturday than it was the first time around!!

By the way, I found a new way to tighten the crank nut. It works for loosening it, as well, but not nearly as easily as an impact wrench. After getting the crank pulley on, I wrapped the old serpentine belt around the pulley, cinched it on with locking pliers, then taking the loose end of the belt, wrapping around the driver side control arm and back underneath the vehicle. Using this method, a friend was able to hold onto the belt while I torqed the nut to spec.

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