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rtd111

Running On Battery Only?

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91 LS400 169K miles

The car died when parked for a few hours. Started on a jump but would die as soon as jumper cables were removed. Got a brand new battery and it started right away and stayed on. But nothing inside the car was lit: no dashboard, windows weren't operating, no lights and the car would not shift. Seems like the alternator is shot. Used the shift override and drove it 4-5 miles and brought it home. Its sitting now with battery terminals removed.

Any thoughts? Is it the alternator or some other issue.

PSPump was replaced 4-5 years ago. Perhaps its leaking again and killed the alternator. Wont get a chance to check until later on Sun. So besides the PSPump, other suggestions welcome.

Many thanks.

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Have you checked for any blown fuses?

Also, if you have access to a voltmeter, start it up and check the charge voltage.

Should be in the 14V +/- range.

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91 LS400 169K miles

The car died when parked for a few hours. Started on a jump but would die as soon as jumper cables were removed. Got a brand new battery and it started right away and stayed on. But nothing inside the car was lit: no dashboard, windows weren't operating, no lights and the car would not shift. Seems like the alternator is shot. Used the shift override and drove it 4-5 miles and brought it home. Its sitting now with battery terminals removed.

Any thoughts? Is it the alternator or some other issue.

PSPump was replaced 4-5 years ago. Perhaps its leaking again and killed the alternator. Wont get a chance to check until later on Sun. So besides the PSPump, other suggestions welcome.

Many thanks.

rtd;

Alternator dead. Replace alternator with new/rebuild. Clean the power steering rack solenoid filter (about every 30K miles). Flush & replace power steering fluid.

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As Threader mentions, that solenoid is the root of all evils when it comes to the p/s fluid leaking. Also rec you don't cheap out on the alt. Get a quality replacement or if you're going to have yours rebuilt make sure you use quality parts.

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Great. Thanx for the replies.

- I have not checked for blown fuses. Though I can't imagine the whole system being down all at once due to one or more, simultaneous blown fuses. Having said that, I will still check

- I'll check the charge: yes I have a voltmeter. I believe you're talking at the alternator.

- I've been in other threads about the ps solenoid -- completely forgot about that nasty little detail.

- I've already replaced the alternator once with a rebuilt/aftermarket. So best not to rebuild this one: any suggestions where I can get quality part, OEM or aftermarket?

BTW, today is shot also. I'll be laboring on this over the next week or so. Having an extra car just means the fun stuff gets deprioritized.

Cheers.

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91 LS400 169K miles

The car died when parked for a few hours. Started on a jump but would die as soon as jumper cables were removed. Got a brand new battery and it started right away and stayed on. But nothing inside the car was lit: no dashboard, windows weren't operating, no lights and the car would not shift. Seems like the alternator is shot. Used the shift override and drove it 4-5 miles and brought it home. Its sitting now with battery terminals removed.

Any thoughts? Is it the alternator or some other issue.

PSPump was replaced 4-5 years ago. Perhaps its leaking again and killed the alternator. Wont get a chance to check until later on Sun. So besides the PSPump, other suggestions welcome.

Many thanks.

rtd;

Alternator dead. Replace alternator with new/rebuild. Clean the power steering rack solenoid filter (about every 30K miles). Flush & replace power steering fluid.

Is the power steering filter easy to get to? Where exactly is the filter? I've always checked the fluid but never knew there was a filter. Thank you! byerjv@yahoo.com

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Search the forum for PS Pump / steering rack solenoid. There's posts in there from me, Threadcutter and the other usual suspects.

The solenoid is on the steering rack on the driver's side. Hard to access and to remove. One of the thread provides instrustrions. You'll have to remove the front driver side wheel.

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I have not checked for blown fuses. Though I can't imagine the whole system being down all at once due to one or more, simultaneous blown fuses. Having said that, I will still check
Be sure to check the alternator fuse under the hood. When it's blown, the car will run, but almost none of the electronic accessories work.

Here's a similar thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=54252&hl=

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hey my friend had this problem with his LS last week, someone jumped his car the wrong way and put negative to positive and blew his alternator fuse

that may be a possibility,

another friend had the same exact symptoms about 2 years ago and it was also a bad alternator fuse,

i suggest you check that first, its located under the hood just lift the fuse cover and look under it for the alt fuse location, then check it

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Some updates.

- I can see thru the fuse window and believe the fuses are okay. How do you remove these *#$( things? Did not see a puller on there unless I am missing something. Does the whole fuse come out or just the top plastic window. In an attempt to remove it with pliers, I actually popped the top of the 40A (#2 fuse i junction 2) and it looks good. I cleaned the dust off the top windows and am able to see the fuses 1-4 and they all look fine. Unless I am supposed to pull the whole thing out...

- I have an aftermarket alternator (Autolite with lifetime warranty). I am not too crazy about it but that's what I got given I need to get the job done this weekend. I am ready to start working on it in another 30 mins.

- Before I start ripping this stuff, I will check the charge as suggested. Even before that, I will hit the alternator with a hammer solid... :-) -- warm, wishful thinking in this friggin' cold Seattle weather last several weeks.

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More updates:

- I really could not check the voltage, and when I removed the undercover, I noticed a drop of ps fluid hanging on the screw at the base of the alternator. So I preceeded to remove it given I suspect ps leak.

- Took it to test it at Schuck's and, well, it tested good. Any comments about the validity of what they do?

- Checked the ALT and IGN fuses -- they're good

So I am at a loss for what the original problem is.

I can check continuity between battery and alternator.

BTW, I cleaned the PS Solenoid. It was a little dirty but not unusually so.

Suggestions appreciated.

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More updates:

I found out last night that someone did screw up big time jumping the car: the cables were in fact reversed -- as The Kid suspected. (Its another issue why this little detail was left out when I went to the car with the new battery.)

So I hope its some fuse somewhere that protected the system and not a major blowout. Any ideas where I can look? I am going to remove the fuse box in Junction 2 and go thru each fuse carefully. Where else can I look and what continuities should I check? (I've reviewed the afore referenced thread blake pointed out.)

I will also research this in the manual.

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I think there was another thread on this just recently with the same issue.

I believe that it was one of the BIG fuses for the Alt. A quick search should be helpful on his results. I think the fuse saved his bacon if I remember correctly.

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I think I am largely behind now on this issue.

The ALT fuse is the one that was busted -- operator error first time around: this is really hard to tell unless the lighting is just right.

Replaced the fuse in and I am good to go. I had taken apart the front to get the alternator out: wasn't bad though and I cleaned a few things out while I was there.

Two additional fuses had to be replaced: a 20amp Radio 1 and a 10 amp... (one closest to the engine) -- both these in Junction 2. The fuses in the driver compartment junction all tested good.

The only bug that remains is the Air Bag light on the dashboard stays on -- wasn't this way until this episode. Will diagnose this further.

Thanx all. Kind of odd that several people (at least one other but seems like there were a couple more) that ran into this same issue because of a similar incident in the last few weeks.

If its this common ... I've taken some pics given its not easy to remove the case that holds the 4 fuses (incl ALT). Ping me if anyone needs assistance - least I can do.

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I think I am largely behind now on this issue.

The ALT fuse is the one that was busted -- operator error first time around: this is really hard to tell unless the lighting is just right.

Replaced the fuse in and I am good to go. I had taken apart the front to get the alternator out: wasn't bad though and I cleaned a few things out while I was there.

Two additional fuses had to be replaced: a 20amp Radio 1 and a 10 amp... (one closest to the engine) -- both these in Junction 2. The fuses in the driver compartment junction all tested good.

The only bug that remains is the Air Bag light on the dashboard stays on -- wasn't this way until this episode. Will diagnose this further.

Thanx all. Kind of odd that several people (at least one other but seems like there were a couple more) that ran into this same issue because of a similar incident in the last few weeks.

If its this common ... I've taken some pics given its not easy to remove the case that holds the 4 fuses (incl ALT). Ping me if anyone needs assistance - least I can do.

r;

Good to see you've made progress. Please post pic's with at least quick write up so that all may benefit from your experience.

Thx

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Good deal! Pics would be awesome on the removal of the big fuses like ALT.

Perhaps someone will weigh in on the Airbag light issue you are still experiencing.

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The only bug that remains is the Air Bag light on the dashboard stays on -- wasn't this way until this episode. Will diagnose this further.

Here's how to clear the air bag light, http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/airbaglight.html. Hope that brings an end to all your problems.

Great. Can't wait to try it. (I should have looked at Lexls!)

Grazie all. (And pics coming soon.)

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