Key Stuck At Acc Position....

[nll714]

I have a 95 LS400 that is having a very bizzare problem.

Car starts / key turns just fine every time. Heres the problem: when I go to turn the car off the key stops at the "ACC" position and wont continue to move to the "LOCK" position so I can pull the key out.

Now, here's where this problem gets wierd: after the key stops at the "ACC" position the engine has obviously shut down. If I quickly turn the key to the right, hear the engine fire, then quickly turn it back to the left, it will go to the "LOCK" position and I can pull the key out of the ignition with no problem.

WTF is this?

I've tried graphite powder with no luck. I've gently tapped on the key with a hammer while trying to turn it to the left to get it to the "LOCK" position with no luck.

This is the most bizarre thing in the world to me. Why when the car is on, and I turn it off will it get stuck at the "ACC" position, but if I quickly fire the key (after the car has turned off) to the right then back to the left, it goes to the correct position and I can take the key out?

My biggest concern with this problem is that I am placing un-neccesary wear and tear on the starter and possibly other components each time to get the key out.

Any insight suggestions would be much appreciated as this is driving me nuts! Thanks.

[Marklouis]

I also have a 95 ls and i havent come across such a strange issue - heres what you can try, I know that you cannot turn the key to lock if the shifter is in drive - it has to be in park for the key to turn to the lock position. when you have the key in the crank position, shift out of park and then back in park, holding the brake down at the same time of course - and see if it turns to lock then. also try turning your steering wheel back and forth slightly also while trying to turn your key to the lock position. to the best of my guess, there must be a short somewhere thats not allowing you to take your key out while in park, some others will Chime in as well that can help.

please post back your findings. :)

[nll714]

Thanks for the reply Marklouis. I have tried EVERYTHING one could imagine to free the key from the "ACC" position and make it go to "LOCK" -- including light turning of the wheel from left to right. None with any luck.

I suppose my other question to this forum would be: what kind of expense would be involved in replacing the ignition? I understand that may mean having one key to start the car and my existing key for all the doors.....not a big deal to me at all.

Again, any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

[93ls400walt]

Maybe adjusting the park/neutral safety switch would help. If it is an issue with the ECM not recognizing that the trans is in park.

[eatingupblacktop]

Walt has a point about the P/N switch. Push the tranny lever into the park position with some force while you try removing the key. Also make sure there is no pressure on the steering wheel lock. Check by slightly turning the wheel when trying to remove the key. Tumblers could be dirty. Try a bit of wd40 into the cylinder before inserting the key. You could also try disconnecting the batt for 10 min to reset the ecm.

[nll714]

Thank you walt and eatingupblacktop for your comments.....much appreciated. I'll definitely give the cylinder a squirt of WD40 and disconnect the battery as two more options.

Dumb question here for you: Im not familiar with the park/neutral safety switch. Could you let me know where that is and how I would go about resetting it?

Thanks guys.

[nll714]

OK, sprayed some WD40 into the ignition and the key turned all the way to the LOCK position and the key came out!!

HOWEVER, it only worked once. When I pulled the key out it was just filthy with black s**t from the WD40 and all the junk in the ignition.

Put the key back in, cranked it up, turned it back to the left and it got stuck in the ACC spot again. Sprayed in more WD40 and tried again....successful!! But, tried again and it got stuck.

I suppose I'll just keep trying this until the key goes to the LOCK position with some regularity.

Any other suggestions or comments based on what I have said above would be appreciated. Thanks again to those of you who have replied.

[IS400]

Never apply WD-40 to the inside of an ignition or door lock. It will literally gum up the works. That is why graphite powder even exists. The problem is going to get worse now IMO.

I'd be sourcing out a new ignition lock cylinder or at least try one of my other keys to make sure it is not a worn out primary key instead.

Your real problem is going to be when that cylinder does not turn at ALL when you want it. Don't resort to a hammer either with delicate parts. I'm trying to help here not judge, so work through the issue and don't get desperate. If all else fails you can always disconnect the battery while you find a way to fix the problem if the key ever locks in the run condition. :(

[Marklouis]

From the Definition:

WD-40 is a fine product and has many uses, but it is not real contact cleaner. It leaves a sticky residue that can attract dust.

WD-40 should never be used in locks for the same reason. Locks should be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, allowed to dry thoroughly and lubricated with dry graphite powder.

Dont know if you can take the ignition out or not and clean that puppy, but i would do my best to get the combination of WD-40 and graphite powder out of there. maybe your key is worn down as earlier posted - is there a spare you can try? hope you get it figured out.

[eatingupblacktop]

I'll agree with mark and IS, a good quality lock lubricant is the long term solution and alcohol can be used to clean as long as you lubricate afterwards. I think you sprayed too much and have gummed up the works. I was offering a solution for removing the key, but if it came out dirty as I suspected then you should either clean the cylinder if possible or replace. A locksmith could advise you as to the cleaning. I don't think a worn key is your problem.

[oldskewel]

Would this be a good job for brake cleaner? My understanding is that it is a good general purpose solvent, with the important feature that it leaves no residue (unlike WD-40) but can be sprayed precisely with the little red straw. Could you spray brake cleaner in there (better flow than if trying to drop some alcohol in) to wash the bad stuff out (gunk, WD-40 residue, old graphite residue)?

Since the fluid is likely to be conducting, with all the suspended particles, while it is washing stuff away, I'd be sure to disconnect the battery prior to trying this.

When all done, if you can get it clean, adding some graphite powder at the end would be good.

Ed

[eatingupblacktop]

Would this be a good job for brake cleaner? My understanding is that it is a good general purpose solvent,

Ed

I would not recommend brake cleaner. It can damage paint and plastic. Whatever cleaner you decide on, it should be safe for paint, rubber, and plastic in the event of overspray, leakage, spills, accidents, etc.

[nll714]

Well s**t. I have sprayed two generous amounts of WD40 into the cylinder already. As I have no clue how to remove the cylinder myself to clean it, I think my next course of action is to call a locksmith or quote out a new ignition cylinder. Thanks for everyones replies.

[93ls400walt]

electrical contact cleaner, a can of compressed air ( from the computer store ) spray lightly with the e.c.t. and blow dry it with the compressed air. Do this a few times Then graphite it.

The park neutral safety switch is under the car. It connects the gear shift and the trans gearing. Simple adjustment, but if it was out of adjustment you might be having trouble starting the car in park or neutral also. If you want to try this P.M. me and i'll post or fax inst. to you

[IS400]

Well s**t. I have sprayed two generous amounts of WD40 into the cylinder already. As I have no clue how to remove the cylinder myself to clean it, I think my next course of action is to call a locksmith or quote out a new ignition cylinder. Thanks for everyones replies.

I tried getting a new key at a locksmith and he said lexus keys are lexus only. Maybe he was wrong, but looked like 100 years old and had as many keys as the keymaker in the matrix movies! LOL He seemed to know his stuff. My key was sticking and he told me it was worn and to use my other one and to squirt a small amount of graphite in the fall to help compensate for condensation making things stick when the water freezes. Hope that helps.

:)

[eatingupblacktop]

IS is right about coating the tumblers to prevent water/condensation from sticking to the compnents and freezing in winter. She also has a good point of checking your other keys to make sure it's not a key prob.

If you're a diy, you can clean it yourself, if not have a dealer/locksmith do it. If it's as dirty and covered with "filthy black !Removed!" as you described, then the key interlock solenoid is likely buggered and is your prob. It will require cleaning/replacing. Your next concern with all that gunk would be that the ign sw inside doesn't fail to start the car.

If you're going to diy, keep in mind that you first have to disarm the airbag and reactivate it when finished. The batt will have to be disconnected for at least 90 sec before proceeding. You might need an extractor for the tapered screws to slide out the cylinder. Here's a link for the procedure to remove the panels and ring light. I might be able to find some diags for lock removal if you decide to go ahead.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/ignition.html

[nll714]

Thanks for the replies. I am not a DIY'er....if I attempted to do this, the airbag would blow up in my face and am certain that each time I put the key in the ignition the trunk would open and that would be it.

I appreciate all the posts and responses. This is a great forum. I believe I'll be having a locksmith handle this issue, or possibly the dealer (bend over, please).

[eatingupblacktop]

One more suggestion, if you're going the dealer route, get Toyota to estimate it and compare with Lexus. They are less expensive for just about everything, even parts.

[xoneinax]

I have/had a similar problem to you. After I move the shift lever around, I am always Ok. It does not engage P very smoothly.

Depending on the year, you can buy key blank on EBay. I bought for my 1996 LS400, had to find professional locksmith or dealer to cut it though.

[SKperformance]

I popped off the key surround trim and sprayed like no tommorow with small shots of pb blaster , then brake cleaner . The key slips in and out like velvet now.

Main thing is to keep the actual key blade clean first.

[capnfred]

I had a similar problem on my 93 ES, has something to do with the transmission/ignition lock interlock system. If the system does not regognize that the trany is indeed in park, it will not let the the key turn past accesory. This problem surfaced when I had the driveshafts disconnected for service. Try this, with the engine off (key turned to accesory) put the shift lever in park, then softly rock the car back and forth against the park lock see if it frees up the lock. If that doesnt work, then you have a problem in the interlock system, there is a solenoid that has to be energized to pull the key out....if you have an FSM it should help you ... let me know how this works.....

Capn

[EPJr]

I have the same problem. The only way I can get the key out of my ignition is to disconnect the battery every time. Its a pain but gets the job done. i dont know what the issue is or how to correct it. No one I have talked to knows how to fix this problem.

[billydpowell]

I have the same problem. The only way I can get the key out of my ignition is to disconnect the battery every time. Its a pain but gets the job done. i dont know what the issue is or how to correct it. No one I have talked to knows how to fix this problem.

what led you to disconnecting the battery?

[EPJr]

my dad told me to disconnect the battery, and it worked.

i was talking to a friend at work, and he suggested a cut off switch which is mounted under the dash. i might try.

ANYONE KNOW OF A DIY of adding a cut off switch??????

[jpourcy]

Here is something I had to do.

After I changed my motor mounts for some reason the shift lever was really tough to go into park.

Put you car in park, climb under the car and loosen the bolt that adjusts the linkage. I believe it was 12mm.

My linkage was in a slight bind and after I loosened the bolt it went back into it's eased position then I tightened it back up. This fixed my binding shift linkage.

This might help you and on the other hand it might not.

Does your shifter feel like it is in a bind when you throw it in park?

JP