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How To Replace Ashtray Light


Paticake

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Hi there. Does anyone know how to replace the light going to the ashtray?

I have removed the 6 small screws on the front console, but can't seem to get it to roll forward far enough to get to the wires. I'm not that handy but follow instructions well.

It's a small thing but my OCD won't let this go. Any help?

Thanks

Pat

2002 RX300

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Hi there. Does anyone know how to replace the light going to the ashtray?

I have removed the 6 small screws on the front console, but can't seem to get it to roll forward far enough to get to the wires. I'm not that handy but follow instructions well.

It's a small thing but my OCD won't let this go. Any help?

Thanks

Pat

2002 RX300

There are screws on the bottom as well.

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Thanks, I got 2 from the bottom and 4 from the top, but I'll go look again.

I just went through this. There are 4 from the top and 6 from the bottom. I suppose there is a way to get all 6 out from the bottom but it is not easy. I ended up just pulling the console so I could flip it over to easily remove the 6 from the bottom. The replacement bulb you need is Sylvania 2721 available at Autozone.

Check here (and link within) for complete directions with pics:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=378885

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You don't need to pull out the whole console just to gain access to the ashtray light... Just get all the screws you can see holding the ashtray part onto that top drawer and pull.

I took some pics from my car and circled the screws you need to remove to pull that part foward to gain access to the ashtray light. I've done this a million times, i've done some work in this area of the console as you can see...

dsc00377600x450rc1.jpg

w600.png

dsc00378600x450bb0.jpg

w600.png

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Well got the other 2 screws from the bottom, still won't come off, but I can flex it forward enough to get to see the light housing. How does that light come out? I guess long nails don't help either. Maybe I'll just run to Autozone to get light and see if they can get it out.

Thanks again.

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Yuppi, Got it off with some gentle pushing and got the light out. Now for a good cleaning.

Mikey00 and LexKid630, if you ever come to Flemington NJ, coffee is on me.

I LOVE THIS SITE. THANKS.

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YUP, But what purpose does that serve? I kinda like the bright light. I only put back 2 top screws until I decide. Please tell me it's just cosmetic........

Just cosmetic, it gives the light a slight green tint. I used mine but if there is a next time I plan on getting rid of it.

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Great, just call me the Green Lantern.

I have 92K and in reading the post it looks like I might be heading for a timing belt. I take it to Midas for all the oil changes and they just put on all new rotors and pads. The rear pads were no charge due to their life time warrenty. Cost $700. The only problem I've had with them was when they put in a new air filter that hose poped out and I got vsc and cel lights. Read all the info on this site and corrected that problem. They suggest a new H2O pump at the same time but from what I read the may not be necessary. What do you think? Any thing else I should watch out for?

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They suggest changing the water pump when you have the timing belt changed only because they're easy to do at the same time. To get to the water pump you need to get the timing belt off, something like that.

You may not need a new water pump, but they say do it at the same time to save money if you'd ever need to do it in the future.

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Great, just call me the Green Lantern.

I have 92K and in reading the post it looks like I might be heading for a timing belt. I take it to Midas for all the oil changes and they just put on all new rotors and pads. The rear pads were no charge due to their life time warrenty. Cost $700. The only problem I've had with them was when they put in a new air filter that hose poped out and I got vsc and cel lights. Read all the info on this site and corrected that problem. They suggest a new H2O pump at the same time but from what I read the may not be necessary. What do you think? Any thing else I should watch out for?

There is no definitive answer on weather or not to do the wp with the timing belt. I didn't do the wp at 90K and have no plans on doing it at 180K. That was based on a conversation with a couple of Toyota techs. Others may differ.

As a general statement, I don't know if I would trust Midas to do my timing belt. You may have an excellent mechanic there who knows Toyota and everything will be fine. But there have been a few problems reported on the forum after having a timing belt done at a local shop. You may want to consider James Toyota. They are in your area and have done some work for me in the past.

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Thanks, for the update. One of the guys @ Midas is from James, so every time I go I request him. I often thought about James Toyota but had no info on their service dept. I'll call or stop by to talk to them. I'm not in financial position to cough up right away, hoping to hold out. Is that called a hail mary. Did they do your TB? Approx $$$?

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Thanks, for the update. One of the guys @ Midas is from James, so every time I go I request him. I often thought about James Toyota but had no info on their service dept. I'll call or stop by to talk to them. I'm not in financial position to cough up right away, hoping to hold out. Is that called a hail mary. Did they do your TB? Approx $$$?

My TB was done by Towne Toyota in Legdewood for about $330. ($399 minus coupon). I used James Toyota to get trans flush. They were the closest dealer I could find with a flush machine. Of course my trans failed shortly after that, so I wouldn't recommend a flush. In hindsight I wish I stuck with my 15K drain and fill schedule. Trans was fine then. I also had them do the plugs while I was there. I thought they did good work.

My statement about Midas was a rather general one and if someone from James is there it might be a good place to have work done. I usually think of them as a exhaust, brakes, etc. kind of place.

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This Kid knew that when you change the tranny fluid you had to drop the pan for the extra fluid. I had just read that on this site, and that impressed me. Your trans. failed after the flush??? What's a flush? Don't tell me....... I had the fluid changed after reading all the info @ 87K WOW 330 is low cost. I think they quoted

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This Kid knew that when you change the tranny fluid you had to drop the pan for the extra fluid. I had just read that on this site, and that impressed me. Your trans. failed after the flush??? What's a flush? Don't tell me....... I had the fluid changed after reading all the info @ 87K WOW 330 is low cost. I think they quoted

First I have ever heard of dropping the pan for extra fluid. There is second drain plug which sits vertically behind the trans pan drain plug on the front diff which gets about another 1/2 qt of trans fluid out. Could that be what you are referring to?

Anyway, a flush is where they hook your trans up to a machine which does a complete fluid exchange. The process can use as much as 16 qts. even though your trans holds about 9 qts. A normal drain and fill (even with removing the pan) will only get about 1/2 of this.

If I could do it all over again, I would have stuck with my drain and fills and added a pan drop with filter change and skipped the flush. Of course, there is no real proof that the flush did my trans in, but I highly suspect that it did.

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  • 3 weeks later...

WoW didn't realize that I didn't finish sentence. they quoted me about $900.00 for the belt. I will look into James for the service, just had another oil change and Midas pushed for another $800.00 for service. I guess everyone is hurting for money. My next project is to try and replace the "D" light. Thank for your info. ;)

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WoW didn't realize that I didn't finish sentence. they quoted me about $900.00 for the belt. I will look into James for the service, just had another oil change and Midas pushed for another $800.00 for service. I guess everyone is hurting for money. My next project is to try and replace the "D" light. Thank for your info. ;)

The "D" light is a little harder to do but still not to bad. The hardest part is getting out the 2 phillips head screws in the plastic bezel around the instrument cluster. They are in really tight. I find it best to use a good stubby phillips screw driver. This will allow you to put your left thumb on the bottom of the screw driver and the rest of your fingers on the top of the dash. Then squeeze to keep the screw driver in the screw head as you use your right hand to turn counterclockwise looking from the bottom. Be sure and look at all the directions and pics available. Here are some:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...eferrerid=12681

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