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Adding Sub To Factory Via Rear Pull Help


BoaR
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Ok, I just got a '95 ES300, read 9 pages of speaker searching the other day and did some mods to the factory sound system. (replaced the rear speakers with proper ohm/watt 3 ways)

While reading I came across more than a few people adding subs and pulling off the rear channels instead of adding tons of wiring, extra amps etc keeping everything really close to stock as possible and giving just that little bit of extra "je ne sait quoi" to the overall sound.

I was wondering how this was accomplished, as nobody went into great detail.

Note that I do not want to add in aftermarket anywhere especially not the HU, really want to keep everything looking as stock as possible (as with my new speakers. you cannot even tell they were changed). also note that in the 95 es the sub was not included... was only dash, front and 2 on the rear paneling for speakers. Also the stock amp in here has no sub outputs. (bah)

I did some googling and nothing really revealing about this process came up. To run a "proper" sub (presuming from reading that it will either be 2-4ohm and max 40w rms 8" sub) off the rear channels what would be required?

Would you just hook the sub up directly to the rear speaker wires? or run some wires spliced at the AMP rear output level to the back where the sub is ? for the "stock" subs that came with certain years of the lexus, was there a solo line to power the sub? or would it suck juice from the channels directly?

It's annoying that my year didnt come with a sub, so the manuals are kinda lacking....Some information please!

Thanks.

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I have 2 10" JL-Audio subs in a sealed box in the trunk. I also have a Polk Audio sub-woofer amp in the trunk. The audio input is from a Hi-Low adapter that draws the audio from the existing sub and turns it into low level signal to put to the input of the sub amp. It also senses audio and provides a 12 volt trigger to turn on the amp.

There are a few things to keep in mind. My existing Mark Levinson system has a pretty high output. Be sure the adapter is a heavy duty one (I burned one out). The existing system crosses over the signal before it gets to the existing sub (filters out the highs and only lets the bass go to the speakers), so keep that in mind as your new sub amp might also have a filter setting and you might loose some of the range you are trying to boost. Also, there are several technologies of amps. Mine is a class-D which is well suited to sub amps, and as hard as I crank it, it barley gets warm.

Basically get a High-Low adapter and proper power wiring from a local car stereo shop, and you add the amp and sub box.

Adding this made a BIG difference in the way the car sounds!

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thanks I'll check that out.

I was really wondering how the people added the sub by drawing off just the oem speakers, but I guess they are so happy about their new car sound that they dont have time to reply ;)

All good, was trying to avoid adding another amp in the car, oh well !

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