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Drivers Door Actuator Replacement


artbuc
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Ok Lenore and Code 58, I have now been separated from the men. No problem in removing door panel. But, I cannot see how you guys hooked-up your replacement actuators. I've read the various threads and looked at the pics, but I don't get it.

The only place I see where you can connect the new rod would be near the plastic cam which is connected to the inside of the exterior door lock. Is that where you guys did it? I can't see or even feel where the connecting rod attaches to the actuator.

Did you have to remove the exterior door handle unit? Can you do that without disconnecting the larger exterior door latch connecting rod?

Also, the pictures show a blue replacement actuator which I am guessing is made by Omega and sells for $10. I bought a cheaper no-name model which the distributor (he sells both) told me is just as good. My unit only has a 3/4" stroke which looks like it will be too short.

Thanks for your help.

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I wish I had taken pictures, the rod is connected to the door lock actuator itself. And No you dont have to remove the outside door lock ( it wont help) I will have to find that post and see if any of the pictures show where it was hooked up...

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I wish I had taken pictures, the rod is connected to the door lock actuator itself. And No you dont have to remove the outside door lock ( it wont help) I will have to find that post and see if any of the pictures show where it was hooked up...

Thanks Lenore. I think I solved my problem. The actuator is covered with a white plastic shroud. The door opening connecting rod passes through the shroud making it impossible to remove unless you either disconnect the door connecting rod or cut the plastic shroud. Indiana, who posted the most detailed description of this process, didn't mention the shroud but it was obviously removed in his pictures.

I believe that removing the shroud will give me the visibility and access I need to do the repair.

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My wife told me today that he driver's door could not be opened with a remote control. I checked this evening and found that the locking nob was not operated with the remote control or door open button. I applied some W-40 and now it is completely stuck in the open position and could be closed with the key, remote control, or door actuator. All other doors are working fine.

Is it an actuator problem?

I really appreciate if anyone has hints what it could be and how to remove the driver's door panel to access the area.

Thank you very much

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I wish I had taken pictures, the rod is connected to the door lock actuator itself. And No you dont have to remove the outside door lock ( it wont help) I will have to find that post and see if any of the pictures show where it was hooked up...

Thanks Lenore. I think I solved my problem. The actuator is covered with a white plastic shroud. The door opening connecting rod passes through the shroud making it impossible to remove unless you either disconnect the door connecting rod or cut the plastic shroud. Indiana, who posted the most detailed description of this process, didn't mention the shroud but it was obviously removed in his pictures.

I believe that removing the shroud will give me the visibility and access I need to do the repair.

artbuc- you do have to remove the (I believe 3 screws) that hold the door lock (latching mechanism) in the door frame. On my DIL's 99RX there was an existing arm with a hole on that latching mechanism that was perfect for the aftermarket actuator rod to attach to (hole was not used, don't know what it was there for). It is really easy to bend the rod and mount the actuator with the supplied strap bracket and piggy-back onto the 2 wires that go to the factory actuator. You want to leave all the original stuff in place and just piggy-back onto those two wires. I didn't have it near as easy because I had to figure it all out on my own (found this forum after I had done all 4 doors). Also, I used 4 Crown Vic actuators (free) and their original brackets. The outside handle doesn't have to come off but I'm quite sure you won't be able to fit and install the rod with the latch in place.

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I wish I had taken pictures, the rod is connected to the door lock actuator itself. And No you dont have to remove the outside door lock ( it wont help) I will have to find that post and see if any of the pictures show where it was hooked up...

Thanks Lenore. I think I solved my problem. The actuator is covered with a white plastic shroud. The door opening connecting rod passes through the shroud making it impossible to remove unless you either disconnect the door connecting rod or cut the plastic shroud. Indiana, who posted the most detailed description of this process, didn't mention the shroud but it was obviously removed in his pictures.

I believe that removing the shroud will give me the visibility and access I need to do the repair.

artbuc- you do have to remove the (I believe 3 screws) that hold the door lock (latching mechanism) in the door frame. On my DIL's 99RX there was an existing arm with a hole on that latching mechanism that was perfect for the aftermarket actuator rod to attach to (hole was not used, don't know what it was there for). It is really easy to bend the rod and mount the actuator with the supplied strap bracket and piggy-back onto the 2 wires that go to the factory actuator. You want to leave all the original stuff in place and just piggy-back onto those two wires. I didn't have it near as easy because I had to figure it all out on my own (found this forum after I had done all 4 doors). Also, I used 4 Crown Vic actuators (free) and their original brackets. The outside handle doesn't have to come off but I'm quite sure you won't be able to fit and install the rod with the latch in place.

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I wish I had taken pictures, the rod is connected to the door lock actuator itself. And No you dont have to remove the outside door lock ( it wont help) I will have to find that post and see if any of the pictures show where it was hooked up...

Thanks Lenore. I think I solved my problem. The actuator is covered with a white plastic shroud. The door opening connecting rod passes through the shroud making it impossible to remove unless you either disconnect the door connecting rod or cut the plastic shroud. Indiana, who posted the most detailed description of this process, didn't mention the shroud but it was obviously removed in his pictures.

I believe that removing the shroud will give me the visibility and access I need to do the repair.

artbuc- you do have to remove the (I believe 3 screws) that hold the door lock (latching mechanism) in the door frame. On my DIL's 99RX there was an existing arm with a hole on that latching mechanism that was perfect for the aftermarket actuator rod to attach to (hole was not used, don't know what it was there for). It is really easy to bend the rod and mount the actuator with the supplied strap bracket and piggy-back onto the 2 wires that go to the factory actuator. You want to leave all the original stuff in place and just piggy-back onto those two wires. I didn't have it near as easy because I had to figure it all out on my own (found this forum after I had done all 4 doors). Also, I used 4 Crown Vic actuators (free) and their original brackets. The outside handle doesn't have to come off but I'm quite sure you won't be able to fit and install the rod with the latch in place.

Thanks 58. Yes, you have to remove 3 torx screws holding the latch in the jamb, another torx screw on the inside panel, a bolt holding the actuator, a bolt holding the window track and a plastic barb. I also removed the exterior door handle so I could disconnect the two connecting rods (one for door key cylinder and the other for the door). Also I removed the bolt holding the inside door latch to create slack on the two wire cables. Finally I disconnected the two wiring harness connectors. This was the only way I could move the actuator around enough to see what I was doing.

More later.

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I wish I had taken pictures, the rod is connected to the door lock actuator itself. And No you dont have to remove the outside door lock ( it wont help) I will have to find that post and see if any of the pictures show where it was hooked up...

Thanks Lenore. I think I solved my problem. The actuator is covered with a white plastic shroud. The door opening connecting rod passes through the shroud making it impossible to remove unless you either disconnect the door connecting rod or cut the plastic shroud. Indiana, who posted the most detailed description of this process, didn't mention the shroud but it was obviously removed in his pictures.

I believe that removing the shroud will give me the visibility and access I need to do the repair.

artbuc- you do have to remove the (I believe 3 screws) that hold the door lock (latching mechanism) in the door frame. On my DIL's 99RX there was an existing arm with a hole on that latching mechanism that was perfect for the aftermarket actuator rod to attach to (hole was not used, don't know what it was there for). It is really easy to bend the rod and mount the actuator with the supplied strap bracket and piggy-back onto the 2 wires that go to the factory actuator. You want to leave all the original stuff in place and just piggy-back onto those two wires. I didn't have it near as easy because I had to figure it all out on my own (found this forum after I had done all 4 doors). Also, I used 4 Crown Vic actuators (free) and their original brackets. The outside handle doesn't have to come off but I'm quite sure you won't be able to fit and install the rod with the latch in place.

Thanks 58. Yes, you have to remove 3 torx screws holding the latch in the jamb, another torx screw on the inside panel, a bolt holding the actuator, a bolt holding the window track and a plastic barb. I also removed the exterior door handle so I could disconnect the two connecting rods (one for door key cylinder and the other for the door). Also I removed the bolt holding the inside door latch to create slack on the two wire cables. Finally I disconnected the two wiring harness connectors. This was the only way I could move the actuator around enough to see what I was doing.

More later.

Ok, the deed is done and all is well. As mentioned before, I bought the $5 actuator from Parts Express (#330-010). I found them on the Amazon storefront but you can buy directly from them at www.parts-express.com. The first one I installed was DOA. I smelled it burning on the first test. Luckily I had purchased two and the second is working fine, for now. Parts Express gave me a credit for the bad unit and 1/2 of the original shipping cost. I purchased two Omega actuators which have the blue body and cost $10 (#330-580). The cheap unit had 13 reviews which were pretty good except concern that the boots tended to dryrot. No mention of premature coil failure. The Omega's only had two reviews because, I guess, everybody buys the cheap ones. Considering the work involved, I would rather install a $10 name brand, than a $5 no-name brand. Now I have a couple spares ready to go.

Now, a couple words of gratitude to those who have gone before me, especially to indiana, Code58, Lenore and the chap who did the superbly illustrated DIY on the door removal (ClubLexus). I could have never done this on my own!

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I wish I had taken pictures, the rod is connected to the door lock actuator itself. And No you dont have to remove the outside door lock ( it wont help) I will have to find that post and see if any of the pictures show where it was hooked up...

Thanks Lenore. I think I solved my problem. The actuator is covered with a white plastic shroud. The door opening connecting rod passes through the shroud making it impossible to remove unless you either disconnect the door connecting rod or cut the plastic shroud. Indiana, who posted the most detailed description of this process, didn't mention the shroud but it was obviously removed in his pictures.

I believe that removing the shroud will give me the visibility and access I need to do the repair.

artbuc- you do have to remove the (I believe 3 screws) that hold the door lock (latching mechanism) in the door frame. On my DIL's 99RX there was an existing arm with a hole on that latching mechanism that was perfect for the aftermarket actuator rod to attach to (hole was not used, don't know what it was there for). It is really easy to bend the rod and mount the actuator with the supplied strap bracket and piggy-back onto the 2 wires that go to the factory actuator. You want to leave all the original stuff in place and just piggy-back onto those two wires. I didn't have it near as easy because I had to figure it all out on my own (found this forum after I had done all 4 doors). Also, I used 4 Crown Vic actuators (free) and their original brackets. The outside handle doesn't have to come off but I'm quite sure you won't be able to fit and install the rod with the latch in place.

Thanks 58. Yes, you have to remove 3 torx screws holding the latch in the jamb, another torx screw on the inside panel, a bolt holding the actuator, a bolt holding the window track and a plastic barb. I also removed the exterior door handle so I could disconnect the two connecting rods (one for door key cylinder and the other for the door). Also I removed the bolt holding the inside door latch to create slack on the two wire cables. Finally I disconnected the two wiring harness connectors. This was the only way I could move the actuator around enough to see what I was doing.

More later.

Ok, the deed is done and all is well. As mentioned before, I bought the $5 actuator from Parts Express (#330-010). I found them on the Amazon storefront but you can buy directly from them at www.parts-express.com. The first one I installed was DOA. I smelled it burning on the first test. Luckily I had purchased two and the second is working fine, for now. Parts Express gave me a credit for the bad unit and 1/2 of the original shipping cost. I purchased two Omega actuators which have the blue body and cost $10 (#330-580). The cheap unit had 13 reviews which were pretty good except concern that the boots tended to dryrot. No mention of premature coil failure. The Omega's only had two reviews because, I guess, everybody buys the cheap ones. Considering the work involved, I would rather install a $10 name brand, than a $5 no-name brand. Now I have a couple spares ready to go.

Now, a couple words of gratitude to those who have gone before me, especially to indiana, Code58, Lenore and the chap who did the superbly illustrated DIY on the door removal (ClubLexus). I could have never done this on my own!

Always happy to help Artbuc. There are certainly those on here that are clever and jump at the chance to help those that would otherwise be on the road to a thinner wallet. The regulars here know who they are and I commend them. My experience is that the Chinese products are not all created equal but for the most part you were just unfortunate to get a bad one. If you shop on the web (as I do) you can pay 500% or more difference for the exact same brand. Depends on how much you dig. I cracked the original Lexus actuator lock modules open to see if i could repair the motor. (They're electrofused together as you probably noticed) The motors inside were stamped "made in China". Isn't everything in this day and age? I simply super-glued them back together when i realized the module had to be in place for all the other stuff it interacts with to work. I'm happy it worked for you- it'll be easier next time won't it? (There will be a next time) I went ahead and replaced all 4 on my DIL's because the drivers had failed and 2 more were intermittent. I couldn't afford the $1300. for the parts and was covering car expenses for my DIL while they were going through a medical crisis with our grandson. (Didn't turn out well) Have a great day and weekend! :)

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Always happy to help Artbuc. There are certainly those on here that are clever and jump at the chance to help those that would otherwise be on the road to a thinner wallet. The regulars here know who they are and I commend them. My experience is that the Chinese products are not all created equal but for the most part you were just unfortunate to get a bad one. If you shop on the web (as I do) you can pay 500% or more difference for the exact same brand. Depends on how much you dig. I cracked the original Lexus actuator lock modules open to see if i could repair the motor. (They're electrofused together as you probably noticed) The motors inside were stamped "made in China". Isn't everything in this day and age? I simply super-glued them back together when i realized the module had to be in place for all the other stuff it interacts with to work. I'm happy it worked for you- it'll be easier next time won't it? (There will be a next time) I went ahead and replaced all 4 on my DIL's because the drivers had failed and 2 more were intermittent. I couldn't afford the $1300. for the parts and was covering car expenses for my DIL while they were going through a medical crisis with our grandson. (Didn't turn out well) Have a great day and weekend! :)

Just got my new Omega DS-2.1 door lock actuators. These are the ones that cost $10 vs $5 for the no-name brand. Except color and brand stamp, the Omegas look just like the no-name and both are made in Taiwan. However, the Omegas have a much smoother and robust action. I think they are definitely worth the extra $5. The Parts-Express catalogue lists the Omega DS-1, but they have been replaced by the DS-2.1.

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Always happy to help Artbuc. There are certainly those on here that are clever and jump at the chance to help those that would otherwise be on the road to a thinner wallet. The regulars here know who they are and I commend them. My experience is that the Chinese products are not all created equal but for the most part you were just unfortunate to get a bad one. If you shop on the web (as I do) you can pay 500% or more difference for the exact same brand. Depends on how much you dig. I cracked the original Lexus actuator lock modules open to see if i could repair the motor. (They're electrofused together as you probably noticed) The motors inside were stamped "made in China". Isn't everything in this day and age? I simply super-glued them back together when i realized the module had to be in place for all the other stuff it interacts with to work. I'm happy it worked for you- it'll be easier next time won't it? (There will be a next time) I went ahead and replaced all 4 on my DIL's because the drivers had failed and 2 more were intermittent. I couldn't afford the $1300. for the parts and was covering car expenses for my DIL while they were going through a medical crisis with our grandson. (Didn't turn out well) Have a great day and weekend! :)

Just got my new Omega DS-2.1 door lock actuators. These are the ones that cost $10 vs $5 for the no-name brand. Except color and brand stamp, the Omegas look just like the no-name and both are made in Taiwan. However, the Omegas have a much smoother and robust action. I think they are definitely worth the extra $5. The Parts-Express catalogue lists the Omega DS-1, but they have been replaced by the DS-2.1.

I actually smile when I see "made in Taiwan" on a part today- feel there is chance the quality may be a little better. How times have changed, huh? Though, as I have said, the motors in my DIL's 99RX say "made in China" ink stamped right on them- they never figured anyone would ever see that, with being electro- fused together. Always glad to hear a success story. :)

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