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Gs300 Not Starting, Intermittently.


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HI,

I HAVE A 1998 GS300 124K MILES, WHEN I GO TO START IT, IT CRANKS BUT WON'T TURN OVER/START.

I CHECKED BATTERY CONNECTION IT WAS OK, ALL THE LIGHT AND WINDOWS WORK. TRIED TO START IT ABOUT 10 TIMES EVEN GIVING IT GAS AS I ATTEMPT TO START, NO LUCK.

5 HOURS LATER OR NEXT MORNING TRIED TO START IT AND IT STARTS ON THE 1ST TRY, WEIRD...DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THIS COULD BE?

I REMEMBER A FEW YEARS AGO A LEXUS TECH WAS CHANGING MY SPARK PLUGS, WHEN HE PULLED IT OUT IT WAS WET WITH ENGINE OIL, HE SAID I WAS GOING TO NEED TO CHANGE MY HEAD GASKET SOONER OR LATER. I NEVER DID AND DONT KNOW IF THIS IS THE PROBLEM OR NOT...DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THIS COULD BE?? OTHER WISE I'M JUST GOING TO SELL THE CAR TOO MANY PROBLEMS.

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  • 2 weeks later...

  • 2 weeks later...

My GS400 started doing that, then the alternator popped. I thought it was the starter forever, turns out the alternator finally went out. it's a straight !Removed! trying to find another one at a decent price, and the water pump is in the way for do it yourself removal. god damn jap's

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It cranks but it wont turn over?

YES CRANKS BUT WONT TURN OVER. UNTIL I WAIT ABOUT 15-20 OR 2 HOURS LATER MINUTES THEN IT STARTS WITHOUT A PROBLEM...WEIRD.

Typing in ALL CAPS is shouting on this (or any) forum - are you yelling at someone? :huh:

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It sounds like an issue with fuel, i would check your fuel pump because if its cranking and not starting it could be one of two things lack of spark or lack of fuel but if your waiting a few minutes and it starts just fine i would check out the fuel pump may have a cloged filter or something stupid like that

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When it's not starting, take a spark plug wire off of a spark plug. Stick a screwdriver in it, and lay it next to some metal but not touching. Have someone crank it and look for blue spark from screwdriver to metal. Or buy a spark plug checker and hook it up to check (looks like a spark plug with a claw to attach to metal). Then if it has spark, take the air tube (accordion looking thing) off the throttle body. Spray some carburetor cleaner into the throttle body while someone cranks to see if it will start. You will be determining if there is spark in the first one, fuel in the second test.

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When it's not starting, take a spark plug wire off of a spark plug. Stick a screwdriver in it, and lay it next to some metal but not touching. Have someone crank it and look for blue spark from screwdriver to metal. Or buy a spark plug checker and hook it up to check (looks like a spark plug with a claw to attach to metal). Then if it has spark, take the air tube (accordion looking thing) off the throttle body. Spray some carburetor cleaner into the throttle body while someone cranks to see if it will start. You will be determining if there is spark in the first one, fuel in the second test.

Well the car is at the dealer getting checked out right now. So far it seems like a problem between the immoblizer and the ECU (i'm not sure which one yet). The ECU does not seem to recognize the key with the chip. Or the ECU is not sending the signal to the immoblizer that the key has a chip and is the correct key. I will know better in a few days, stay tuned... :huh:

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Problem is the Electronic Control Unit (ECU), the main computer that has the immoblizer unit attached. Part cost $1,200 dealer. Does anyone know where i could get one for cheap?

Right now the car is at the dealer looks like it is a problem with the ECU the main computer. It is not communicating with the immoblizer to tell it to turn on. $1200 for the part alone. Has anyone had this before?

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  • 1 month later...

Shawn,

Interesting... my wife's 98 GS (130K miles) just started doing this last week. Same thing... One minute, it starts fine, the next it takes 50 turns of the key to get her to kick over. I thought it was the starter on the car, but I also didn't rule out something with the ignition. I did clean the key, but that didn't help.. .

I hope it's not the immobilizer thing. I refuse to go to a dealer!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys, just wanted to let you know the problem is fixed. I got the ECU replaced, the ECU and Immoblizer (both are together on the same board as one unit, ECU) were not communicating with each other, also the crank position sensor had some exposed or spliced wires. The wiring on the crank position sensor was temporary repaired, will replace it later.

The front end noise i had in other post, turned out to be the ball joints, thanks for all the replies guys..

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If the problem is cause by the immobilizer, the security light would continue to blink while cranking. The engine will crank and turn over but won't start. If the light isn't blinking your starting problem is cause by something else.

The ECM is behind the glove box.

N.C.O.

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  • 1 month later...
The problem came back, cranks but won't start, the dealer did tell me i needed to change the crank position sensor i guess i will need to do that, don't know how and why the computer fix the same problem a few months ago?

Hate to say it, but I mught have done the sensor before the ecu.

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The problem came back, cranks but won't start, the dealer did tell me i needed to change the crank position sensor i guess i will need to do that, don't know how and why the computer fix the same problem a few months ago?

Hate to say it, but I mught have done the sensor before the ecu.

I think i have found the problem, i found an exposed wire for the crank position sensor rubbing on the alternator. After i taped it up and removed it from next to the alternator, the car started right up. The next thing to do is figure out how to change it, and do it myself. Looks like the alternator is in the way, can't even see the sensor. Does anyone know how to get to it?

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The problem came back, cranks but won't start, the dealer did tell me i needed to change the crank position sensor i guess i will need to do that, don't know how and why the computer fix the same problem a few months ago?

Hate to say it, but I mught have done the sensor before the ecu.

I think i have found the problem, i found an exposed wire for the crank position sensor rubbing on the alternator. After i taped it up and removed it from next to the alternator, the car started right up. The next thing to do is figure out how to change it, and do it myself. Looks like the alternator is in the way, can't even see the sensor. Does anyone know how to get to it?

This might help you out:

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1998_LEXU....html?hl=15100Q

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The problem came back, cranks but won't start, the dealer did tell me i needed to change the crank position sensor i guess i will need to do that, don't know how and why the computer fix the same problem a few months ago?

Hate to say it, but I mught have done the sensor before the ecu.

I think i have found the problem, i found an exposed wire for the crank position sensor rubbing on the alternator. After i taped it up and removed it from next to the alternator, the car started right up. The next thing to do is figure out how to change it, and do it myself. Looks like the alternator is in the way, can't even see the sensor. Does anyone know how to get to it?

This might help you out:

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1998_LEXU....html?hl=15100Q

Hey thanks guy, so looks like it's behind the oil pump, i wonder if i can get to it with out taking off any major parts, i will jack it up and have a look from under. I will post a reply, thanks again.

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  • 10 years later...

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