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Posted

Hello,

Im VERY new to the world of Lexus's. I just sold my 2002 Black WS6 Trans am and decided to buy a practical automobile.

My new baby...2003 IS300 Graphite gray pearl. 48,000 miles auto off a 1 owner.

My questions....any notorious mechanical problems with these cars? Engines? What oil should be ran? I suppose they run syn from the factory?

Heres my issue..the car has about a half dozen small door dings and dents..some on the "crease" line of the rear panel (you know where the crease line goes across the entire length of the car and swoops up towards the rear). It also has a pretty deep scratch on the rear bumper.

Whats my best bet to do? Go to a body shop and hope they can do a PDR (Paintless dent repair). How about those guys that come to you and do it in your parking lot etc..? Im not sure what to do but i want my new baby to look as good as it did rolling out of the factory. I quess im just asking on what my best option would be for price and service for dings and dents. Never had em before!

Thanks and i look forward to gaining more knowledge on this little 215hp rocket! :D

Posted

Welcome to the LOC!

The stock CD player is about the worst, but other than that the car is great. It doesn't come from the factory with synthetic, but I run all my cars on it, and most of us here do also.

As for the dents, I would try the paintless dent guy first, Just see what he has to say. They fixed up my wifes car and it was amazing what they can do. If they say there are some that they cant do anything about then I would consider a body shop.

And by the way, we uuhh, need pictures.

Posted

Thanks il try the dent guy first. Pics will be up soon.

Question. I see a "Traction control" button..do i want to leave this on or off?

Also a "Power" button..on or off?

Thanks

Posted

The traction control is a safety system that detects wheel spin and stops it. So it depends, if you want to do a burn out or take off hard, then press the traction off button, other than that, it stays on by itself, and everytime you start the car it defaults back to being on. The Power button is for the transmission. It changes the shift points in the tranny to a higher RPM, and a few other subtle changes that help with throttle responce from a stop. Again, up to you, but this will stay in the setting you choose.

Posted

Looks like the previous owner has been running 5W30 "Chevron premium engine oil"

Questions: Is that bad oil?

How hard is changing the oil on these cars? (i remember my moms old ES you use to have to drop the pan i think!)

It has 48.500 miles on it. Should i just switch over to mobil 1 5W30 synthetic now?

Any help? Thanks a lot guys. pics up later today

Posted

That's ok, so long as it was changed regularly. Just switch it over now. It will be fine. Changing oil isn't that bad, the oil filter is a bit of difficult location, but doable. You don't have to drop the pan, just the oil plug.

Posted

Ok thanks..I will try Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic from now on...unless anyone else has any suggestions? I used to run AMSOIL 5W40 in my 2002 Trans Am WS6 and that stuff was amazing..10k and it looked like i put it in the crankcase the day before.

Anyway here are some pics..The rear bumper is not flush with the panels..like a small gap..is this normal or do you think the car has been bumped (SEE PICTURE 3)? Thanks

Oh....also...my headlights seem a bit dingey...like theres moisture on the inside of the plastic lense that will never evap. Any suggestions...isnt it a PITA to take the lenses out and clean?

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Posted
Ok thanks..I will try Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic from now on...unless anyone else has any suggestions? I used to run AMSOIL 5W40 in my 2002 Trans Am WS6 and that stuff was amazing..10k and it looked like i put it in the crankcase the day before.

Anyway here are some pics..The rear bumper is not flush with the panels..like a small gap..is this normal or do you think the car has been bumped (SEE PICTURE 3)? Thanks

Oh....also...my headlights seem a bit dingey...like theres moisture on the inside of the plastic lense that will never evap. Any suggestions...isnt it a PITA to take the lenses out and clean?

The headlight should just be replaced if your having miosture problems. You can try the drill a small hole in the underneath side trick, but I have found that for all the trouble your gonna go thru to do that, just spend the 150 bucks on a new one from Ebay and done with it. To get to the headlights you have to remove the whole front bumper and grill, to gain access to the headlights.

I use Amsoil on all my cars. I race on the side as a hobby and I wouldn't use anything else. BUt that is a personal preference in my opinion.

I can't tell anything from the pic if the bumper has had any issues or not, but I can tell you that mine has never seemed to line up perfectly either. And I have had 3 IS 300's.

Posted

Thanks.

I have my manual. I was just asking about this specific AMSOIL weight and type. The oil capacity question was just thrown in there but yes i can look it up... :P

Posted

Ahh its not moisture on the inside of the lenses its grim on the outside of the headlight lenses..any products good to take it off w/o ruining the plastic? Thanks

Posted

Yeah, the link you posted for the Amsoil id great. That's what I use. As for the headlight, I have used Flitz plastic and glass polish beofre with great results. I have also heard people get good results with some headlight headlight restoration kits.

The poppping and clicking sound you hear, may be the brakes, and is normal. It normally makes that sound when you are backing up, or just staring to move?

Posted

Thanks.

Yes it makes that clicking/poping noise right after im moving after first putting it in gear from startup. Esp. if i turn. Also when i put it in reverse or turn. I know the previous owner always had the hand brake on when he parked the car for some reason but im not sure if that would ever matter. It sounds like a suspension or brake noise as you said (or could be coming from the motor POP or CLICK. ??)

I did a search for that Fitz and couldnt find it. Il go to pep boys and see what they have.

So im going to order the amsoil and was wondering how much a shop or dealership should charge me for just doing the oil change (if i bring the filter and oil)? In my world it should be $20 but thats not reality..I guess im used to changing my own on my 350 LT1/LS1 engines and not paying someone to do it..but these motors seem a PITA to try and change the oil. Wheres the plug and filter on these bad boys?

Posted

The click is normal. It comes from the floating calipers on the front brakes.

The oil drain is on the bottom of the oil pan as you would expect. If you turn your wheels and look under the motor you can see it. Look down on the left side of the motor and you can easily see the filter.

I pay $29 for an oil change and I supply the filter, they supply the oil.

Oh and it's Flitz, not Fitz.

http://www.autogeek.net/flitz-headlight---...ration-kit.html

Posted

Thank you soo much...thats exactely what it sounds like..what are the times the calipers are floating bc i hear it at random times?..not while driving of course. I thought possibly i had a major front end suspension problem

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey New here to the forum. Just bought an 02 IS 300. I just had to replace the batteries in the remote keyless entry and come to find out that it unlocks and locks all the doors except the driver's? Anyway other than that a pretty clean car, thanks for all the info that has already been posted!


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