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What Kind And Grade Of Oil For 99 Rx 300 For 80k Miles


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I want to know what kind and Grade of Oil to put in for my 99 RX 300 for 80K miles servicing?

Also what brand filter to use?

Really appreciate your feedback

I use Mobil 1 5-30W. Seems to work fine. I change it every 5K miles.

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I want to know what kind and Grade of Oil to put in for my 99 RX 300 for 80K miles servicing?

Also what brand filter to use?

Really appreciate your feedback

I use Mobil 1 5-30W. Seems to work fine. I change it every 5K miles.

My toyota dealer suggesting Synthetic? Is it okay?

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If you currently do not have any oil leaks, you will be just fine switching to synthetic. Use 5W 30 (double check your owners manual as 10W 30 might be suggested for your climate) grade & a high quality oil filter such as Toyota.....stay clear of Fram.

:cheers:

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If you currently do not have any oil leaks, you will be just fine switching to synthetic. Use 5W 30 (double check your owners manual as 10W 30 might be suggested for your climate) grade & a high quality oil filter such as Toyota.....stay clear of Fram.

:cheers:

Not starting again, but had you opened a TOYO filter? A china-mart filter is the same. I have had good UOA's with Fram on my bike. In fact, they are fine in my book for <7,500 drains. I am using a EaO now and will compare to the last 14 years UOA on it.

In FL, I would run something thinner since 0w-20 works just fine in the Lonestar state for me. Wake up at 4 am and it is 80 to 85...try that....

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Another great oil is Castrol Oil Full synthetic synertec 0-30 weight made in Germany on the back. It is a very high quality oil and really made my RX300 purrrrrr.

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Just curious to know what type of grade is good for warm weather? Also if someone could tell what exactly these grades are?

Also where is Bank 1 sensor located as i am getting code PL0171.

PL

Kind of a very general question to ask. What are you looking for. Price, performance, keeping engine clean, best mpg, shear stable, low/no ash, low HTHS.................. ?????

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I use Mobil 1 5W-30, a synthetic, in my car (as well as my other two cars) and I can't imagine that using it in your 80000 mile car is going to cause an issue. There are some that claim that synthetics start leaks but I have never seen any evidence of that. Filters? I use the Wix brand sold by NAPA. They have a pretty good reputation on other car forums too.

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If you have a high milage car and get leaks from synthetic, you always had leaks to start. The dino just covered it up. The synthetic, general term, cleaned it out via the esters.

Napa, wix gold is a good filter for the price. If the price was over $3.25 each I would look for a better filter.

R&B

If you want to see the diff in filters (eff/cap) you NEED to do a UOA. ALso why even both if between 10w-30/40 in a "synethic". You are gaining zero I feel. In AZ it does not get that cold to switch these close in vis.

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I want to know what kind and Grade of Oil to put in for my 99 RX 300 for 80K miles servicing?

Also what brand filter to use?

Really appreciate your feedback

I use Mobil 1 5-30W. Seems to work fine. I change it every 5K miles.

My toyota dealer suggesting Synthetic? Is it okay?

Mobil 1 is full synthetic. Many tests imply that it has more 'resistance' to use/sheer than most. I 'felt' the difference (for the better) when I switched to it, but cannot - and did not try to - quantify it. Filter used is Lexus or Mobil 1. I'm happy with the result.

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If you currently do not have any oil leaks, you will be just fine switching to synthetic. Use 5W 30 (double check your owners manual as 10W 30 might be suggested for your climate) grade & a high quality oil filter such as Toyota.....stay clear of Fram.

:cheers:

Not starting again, but had you opened a TOYO filter? A china-mart filter is the same. I have had good UOA's with Fram on my bike. In fact, they are fine in my book for <7,500 drains. I am using a EaO now and will compare to the last 14 years UOA on it.

In FL, I would run something thinner since 0w-20 works just fine in the Lonestar state for me. Wake up at 4 am and it is 80 to 85...try that....

Usually, the warmer the environment, the higher the 'w' (weight) of the oil than should be used (?). The lower number is the flow cold and the higher number the resistance to heat. I've wondered if, in Florida, where I am, I should not use 10W40 instead of the 5W30 in my 66K mile RX300. Dealer says 5W30 is fine.

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Usually, the warmer the environment, the higher the 'w' (weight) of the oil than should be used (?). The lower number is the flow cold and the higher number the resistance to heat. I've wondered if, in Florida, where I am, I should not use 10W40 instead of the 5W30 in my 66K mile RX300. Dealer says 5W30 is fine.

That is correct for dino but throw in a group 4/5 oil, warm/cold does not matter. Also I full synthetic can be a dino-craked oil (aka walfart has their own full synthetic.) Not the same here for $13.95 a gallon.

You can do two things here. trust a dealers most times know zero on oil. or in your case any and everything would work. I understand what the #'s mean but I can use a 15w-40 in Canada and be fine or a 0w-20 in Tx and befine (in real synthetic land).

I use 0w-20 in Texas and works just fine, based on results. If depends on what you want. One reason why I dislike Mobil is their really poor/rude customer service. Skip the Lexus filter. They are crap. Between those 2, use Mobil.

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I have run 5w30 valvoline. valvoline maxlife blend and now Pennzoil Platinum. The valvoline maxlife blend made the engine quietest. I use the toyota filters. I change at 5000 miles and now at 141,000 miles my engine uses about 1/3 quart of oil in 5000 miles. No leaks.

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