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Oil Leak From The Upper Pan


tdk1940
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My 2000 RX300 with 134K went in for timing belt replacement and it now has an oil leak from the upper oil pan (seal) area. it appears that it is going to be a major work to remove a number of parts and to re-seal the leak. Toyota uses a bondo (silcon) seal insteade of gasket at both the lower and the uper pan mating surfaces. Has anyone experienced this problem? Any advise will be appreciated.

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My 2000 RX300 with 134K went in for timing belt replacement and it now has an oil leak from the upper oil pan (seal) area. it appears that it is going to be a major work to remove a number of parts and to re-seal the leak. Toyota uses a bondo (silcon) seal insteade of gasket at both the lower and the uper pan mating surfaces. Has anyone experienced this problem? Any advise will be appreciated.

it would be wise to clean all surfaces that has any oil leak residue. Make sure the leak is complete clean. Recheck and confirm that the leak is not oil residue from oil filter removal and or rear main engine oil seal. It is very rare to have the number one oil pan to leak on those model. If it did not leak for soo many miles it is unlikely to have the number one oil pan leak because of how they seal those in the factory.

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My 2000 RX300 with 134K went in for timing belt replacement and it now has an oil leak from the upper oil pan (seal) area. it appears that it is going to be a major work to remove a number of parts and to re-seal the leak. Toyota uses a bondo (silcon) seal insteade of gasket at both the lower and the uper pan mating surfaces. Has anyone experienced this problem? Any advise will be appreciated.

it would be wise to clean all surfaces that has any oil leak residue. Make sure the leak is complete clean. Recheck and confirm that the leak is not oil residue from oil filter removal and or rear main engine oil seal. It is very rare to have the number one oil pan to leak on those model. If it did not leak for soo many miles it is unlikely to have the number one oil pan leak because of how they seal those in the factory.

Thanks for letting me know that the upper pan is designated as number one oil pan. I am absoulutely sure that the leakage is from this pan. We had it up on a lift and with the engine running. Oil was squorting out in front of my eyes. I am disappointed by Lexus that they choose to seal it with a silcone. I will call Lexus tomorrow and will hear what they have to say.

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My 2000 RX300 with 134K went in for timing belt replacement and it now has an oil leak from the upper oil pan (seal) area. it appears that it is going to be a major work to remove a number of parts and to re-seal the leak. Toyota uses a bondo (silcon) seal insteade of gasket at both the lower and the uper pan mating surfaces. Has anyone experienced this problem? Any advise will be appreciated.

it would be wise to clean all surfaces that has any oil leak residue. Make sure the leak is complete clean. Recheck and confirm that the leak is not oil residue from oil filter removal and or rear main engine oil seal. It is very rare to have the number one oil pan to leak on those model. If it did not leak for soo many miles it is unlikely to have the number one oil pan leak because of how they seal those in the factory.

Thanks for letting me know that the upper pan is designated as number one oil pan. I am absoulutely sure that the leakage is from this pan. We had it up on a lift and with the engine running. Oil was squorting out in front of my eyes. I am disappointed by Lexus that they choose to seal it with a silcone. I will call Lexus tomorrow and will hear what they have to say.

As has been stated, that is the way they are sealed at the factory and is a much better way than when gaskets were used. I suspision the mechanic was a little careless when installing the pan and disturbed the silicone or didn't let it cure long enough before he added the oil. When done properly it is an excellent seal. It DOES take time for it to set. Good Luck in getting it resolved. :)

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  • 6 years later...

hi, Old topic resurrected back from the dead.

2001 RX 300 with identical problem. With the AWD version can number 1 oil pan be dropped or is there a major other operation involved?

where can I find a sequence without purchasing a manual to do this job?

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In the case of this leak, we completely power washed the under side of the engine in this area. The car was losing 2 qts every tank on the average and the entire bottom on the right was coated with oil.

Possible cause the PCV valve?

Bottom line the Number 1 or top oil pan can be removed on an AWD RX300 with a little effort and normal hand tools.

My camera was being used as a flash light... It was a drizzly evening and including a parts run and a broken alternator tension bolt.. it took 6 hrs to get everything back together except the alternator. All work was done with the car up on ramps in the front. I've been working on cars for many years, but the conditions and equipment available or this driveway repair were minimal at best. Done on a lift with air tools the time could probably be cut in half.

Sequence as follows:

Disconnect Battery

Drain oil

Remove flex connector exhaust pipe

Remove metal oil pan

Remove Oil pickup tube

Remove all the Number 1 oil pan bolts (12mm heads)

- There is a small 10mm bolt under in the middle at the crank pulley end

- There are two 14mm headed bolts that go into the transmission

- The small cover at the bell housing needs to be removed - there are two more 10mm bolts behind it

- The bolt right above the exhaust pipe is a pain and will not come fully out so remember it is in there as you remove the pan

Remove and aside the alternator

Remove small bracket that connects the AC pump to the Alternator bracket (one nut and one bolt)

Remove the four 12mm bolts that hold the AC pump to the bracket (the bottom 2 thread into the Number 1 oil pan

Remove the 2 bolts from the AC bracket behind the AC pump at the top and pull the bracket away from the engine towards the front

At this point the upper oil pan can be removed. Bring the crankshaft end down and use a pry bar between the frame and the pan to slowly work it down.

Clean everything, make sure the oil pickup tube screen is clean.

I put a black silicon oil resistant gasket maker compound on both surfaces before putting the number 1 oil pan back up in.

Make sure you reinsert the bolt by the exhaust pipe before you put the Number 1 pan back up...

Insert and start all 4 of the AC pump bolts before tightening the top 2 bracket bolts in order to make sure the bracket is aligned with the oil pan.

Pretty much reverse of removal except for installing the AC pump after the Number 1 pan is already bolted in.

I also replaced the PCV valve just in case that was the culprit. If the engine has excessive blow by.

Count on replacing the exhaust gaskets, Serpentine belt and oil filter in addition to the metal oil pan gasket and oil for a oil change.

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