oohryry Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 This one looks like a woozie. I don't think I will try to do it myself, unless I get detailed instructions. Has anyone changed these parts before and how hard and long was the process? Right Upper Control Arm and the Left Tie Rod End. Also, is it possible to just replace the bad ball joint instead of changing the entire Upper Control Arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiveofakind Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 If you are mechanically inclined....the best purchase you ever make will be a set of Factory Service Manuals for your year...they will pay for themselves the first you use them..... Worth their weight in gold.....check ebay for a set of manuals.....buy only factory manuals.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oohryry Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 Ok, I got a used 96 upper control arm, anyone know what tools are needed and how much it should be tightened? It looks fairly easy until I look at the part that probably needs a certain tightening tool that I have know idea of what it may be called. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Oohryry, it's not hard amigo, not hard at all. Got to your local auto parts store and buy yourself a pitman tool to pop the upper balljoint out of the control arm. Do not use the fork tool, as it will completely destroy the rubber housing of the balljoint and put grease everywhere. The pitman simply locks on the back side of the balljoint and you turn the bolt of the pitman against the balljoint arm until it pops loose. It will POP too, loudly, so watch your fingers. From there, it's as simple as two more bolts at the bushing points. For me, I used a little liquid wrench, my normal socket set, and a hammer to pound on the wrench to bust them loose. Once it breaks free, just back out the bolts, take the arm out, and install the new one. Quite easy. I have the proceedure from the manual at home in pdf format. I'll post it up tonight for ya'. If my memory serves correct, I think the lbs' are in the 85-90 range on the bolts. You'll know the balljoint arm is seated when you can see the hole for the slider pin showing with about a 2-3mm space. PS: No replacement for just the balljoint on these, it's all or nothing for this series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oohryry Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 Thanks nc211, how have you been? I was going to try and do it today, but since you're gonna post the procedure this evening I better wait till tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 oohryry, sorry man, I didn't get home until around 11:00 last night "business dinner", and was just wiped out tired. I forgot to post the pdf for you. I'll get it tonight, as I'll be home at a decent hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oohryry Posted April 2, 2008 Author Share Posted April 2, 2008 oohryry, sorry man, I didn't get home until around 11:00 last night "business dinner", and was just wiped out tired. I forgot to post the pdf for you. I'll get it tonight, as I'll be home at a decent hour. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 Here ya' go, amigo, this should take care of it for you. ;) 35.pdf 27.pdf 14.pdf 12.pdf 9.pdf 8.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oohryry Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 Here ya' go, amigo, this should take care of it for you. ;) Thank you my friend. I'm done printing and ready to go to the store to look for the pitman arm puller and a torque wrench. However, the instructions state that I must remove the shock absorber and coil spring to do this procedure. And the Pneumatic cylinder is on page SA-26 but I can see that will be easy to do without the page. I'll ask for more help if I get stuck. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 The shocks & springs are connected to the car via the lower control arm and bracket in the wheel well. The upper control arm simply slides over then, like a horseshoe to the pin. No need to remove them. Good luck, and let us know if you have questions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oohryry Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 The shocks & springs are connected to the car via the lower control arm and bracket in the wheel well. The upper control arm simply slides over then, like a horseshoe to the pin. No need to remove them. Good luck, and let us know if you have questions! I can't get the bolts to turn. I have the upper control arm popped, but can't get the two top bolts to move or the bottom bolts to take of the coil to make more room. Which direction are the control arm bolts suppose to go? Pull the wrench downward towards me or push it upwards away from me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 The shocks & springs are connected to the car via the lower control arm and bracket in the wheel well. The upper control arm simply slides over then, like a horseshoe to the pin. No need to remove them. Good luck, and let us know if you have questions! I can't get the bolts to turn. I have the upper control arm popped, but can't get the two top bolts to move or the bottom bolts to take of the coil to make more room. Which direction are the control arm bolts suppose to go? Pull the wrench downward towards me or push it upwards away from me? Righty-tighty / lefty-loosey - when facing the bolt. So to answer you question about direction: both! Man, are you bringing back some memories when I did this. Wore myself out to the point were I nearly passed out in the shower afterwards. I can't recall ever being so tired. My legs were like rubber, and thought I was going to puke, I was that tired. Hit the bolts with some WD40, liquid wrench preferred, but WD will work as well. I assume you're using a basic wrench? If so, and this is a little tricky, but let the liquid wrench/wd40 sit on the bolt for a few seconds, then with one hand holding the wrench in place at the bolt, take a hammer and tap/hit the other end a few times to loosen up via shock. Then put a little more wd40/liquid wrench on there and tap again, then let it sit for a few minutes to let it work it's way in. It should bust loose shortly thereafter. OR, and this makes EASY work of those damn bolts....a cheater bar or breaker bar. It's basically a 30 inch wrench. The further away from the bolt you can get, the more leverage you'll acheive. BUT WARNING:: WATCH OUT ON THE BOLT THAT REQUIRES YOU TO MOVE THE WRENCH UP!!! YOU'LL HIT THE FENDER OF THE CAR AND DING IT! Breaker bars are sold everywhere, very common in automotive stores. Probably cost around $25 bucks. Or if you have a hollow steel tube that you can slide over the handle of the wrench and achieve a decent enough fit to lift with it, use that. But nothing beats a breaker bar. It's one of those tools that you'll keep forever and use again and again as the car ages and you take on more chores yourself. Especially on the bolts to remove the calipers if you take on the brake rotors. Those puppies get so much grime on them, then gets cooked on with the heat....damn near impossible to loosen them at first without some serious leverage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oohryry Posted June 21, 2008 Author Share Posted June 21, 2008 The shocks & springs are connected to the car via the lower control arm and bracket in the wheel well. The upper control arm simply slides over then, like a horseshoe to the pin. No need to remove them. Good luck, and let us know if you have questions! I can't get the bolts to turn. I have the upper control arm popped, but can't get the two top bolts to move or the bottom bolts to take of the coil to make more room. Which direction are the control arm bolts suppose to go? Pull the wrench downward towards me or push it upwards away from me? Righty-tighty / lefty-loosey - when facing the bolt. So to answer you question about direction: both! Man, are you bringing back some memories when I did this. Wore myself out to the point were I nearly passed out in the shower afterwards. I can't recall ever being so tired. My legs were like rubber, and thought I was going to puke, I was that tired. Hit the bolts with some WD40, liquid wrench preferred, but WD will work as well. I assume you're using a basic wrench? If so, and this is a little tricky, but let the liquid wrench/wd40 sit on the bolt for a few seconds, then with one hand holding the wrench in place at the bolt, take a hammer and tap/hit the other end a few times to loosen up via shock. Then put a little more wd40/liquid wrench on there and tap again, then let it sit for a few minutes to let it work it's way in. It should bust loose shortly thereafter. OR, and this makes EASY work of those damn bolts....a cheater bar or breaker bar. It's basically a 30 inch wrench. The further away from the bolt you can get, the more leverage you'll acheive. BUT WARNING:: WATCH OUT ON THE BOLT THAT REQUIRES YOU TO MOVE THE WRENCH UP!!! YOU'LL HIT THE FENDER OF THE CAR AND DING IT! Breaker bars are sold everywhere, very common in automotive stores. Probably cost around $25 bucks. Or if you have a hollow steel tube that you can slide over the handle of the wrench and achieve a decent enough fit to lift with it, use that. But nothing beats a breaker bar. It's one of those tools that you'll keep forever and use again and again as the car ages and you take on more chores yourself. Especially on the bolts to remove the calipers if you take on the brake rotors. Those puppies get so much grime on them, then gets cooked on with the heat....damn near impossible to loosen them at first without some serious leverage... Thanks for all your help nc, but it wouldn't come off. I used everything I could, even grip pliers and strip the bolts. Took it to Midas today. They re-sanded the bolts and put on my used upper control arm. $245.00. Eric finished it quickly for me though that's what I love about going to Midas in Glen Burnie. He'll fix it right. Oh well, maybe I'll get my next diy right. I was going to take off the coil, but Auto Zone gave me the wrong coil spring tensioner. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.