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Es300 Smoking Bad And Gas Smell Help?


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1993 Lexus ES300 V6 Automatic 260k miles...I know thats alot but I still want it fixed!

I've been reading forums, reading the repair manuals and topics for a couple of weeks now to try to figure things out on my own and to learn as much as I can. Needless to say, this :censored: thing is driving me crazy because I don't really have a lot of money to spend and the conflicting :censored: I'm getting. I do know some basics about car repair and such but this I'm just not sure because of all of the conflicting information I'm getting and now I'm just getting confused more than anything. :wacko: I'll try to put as much info as I can think of and hopefully it will help if anyone can give me a straight answer on what is to do. I don't know anything about the previous owner(s) or how it was taken care of before.

Please keep in mind, I don't have a whole lot of money, I don't want to junk it, and that I just want it fixed without taking it to a repair shop or dealer.

Here's what's going on with it.

  1. It sucks down gas REALLY bad...sorry that's the only way I can put it
  2. It's blowing white smoke from the tailpipe (sometimes it looks a little greyish but mostly white) when I say "blowing", I mean it's litterally ROLLING out REALLLLLYYYY thick
  3. It blows raw fuel from the tailpipe
  4. It sputters some but otherwise runs really good
  5. It doesn't overheat that I've noticed
  6. I haven't noticed water in the oil or vice versa, BUT there is a smell of fuel on the dipstick
  7. the CEL was on BUT...long story=short version...battery disconnected & now I can't get the codes
  8. not sure if it's using a lot of oil or coolant because I haven't been running it alot (actually I'm a bit afraid to because of the fuel leaking & a few people have mentioned it's like a time bomb waiting to explode)...ummm YIKES?!?! :blink:

Here is a list of what I've done with it so far

  1. new injectors
  2. new spark plugs
  3. new VSV's
  4. new fuel pressure regulator
  5. new PCV valve
  6. cleaned EGR
  7. cleaned IACV
  8. cleaned throttle body
  9. replaced a few old vac hoses
  10. distributor & rotor still good
  11. changed oil & filter
  12. flushed radiator & replaced coolant

Been thinking it has to be the head gaskets & rings causing the smoke and raw fuel but have been told it couldnt be that. I've also been thinking that the guy that told me that is an idiot too though. :chairshot: LOL

I'd really appreciate any real advice and/or help....

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The Best advice I can give you is to take the car to a Good mechanic who you trust and have him diagnose what your problem is. Your best bet is someone who does not have a vested interest in doing the repairs. Spend $50 - $100 and find out what you are dealing with, and what it will cost. In fact, get 2 different mechanics to give you a diagnosis. Only then can you decide what course of action you are going to follow. Quit listening to all the backyard mechanics who haven't been in the backyard long enough. I had a 1984 Cressida that started blowing smoke at about the 6 year old mark. Initially I thought it was rings or valves, but a good mechanic traced it down to worn valve stem seals allowing oil to run down the valve stems into the cylinders. He was able to fix the problem quickly and for a lot less money than what a valve and ring job would have cost. I got another 4 years out of the car before it was trading time. Good luck!

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1993 Lexus ES300 V6 Automatic 260k miles...I know thats alot but I still want it fixed!

I've been reading forums, reading the repair manuals and topics for a couple of weeks now to try to figure things out on my own and to learn as much as I can. Needless to say, this :censored: thing is driving me crazy because I don't really have a lot of money to spend and the conflicting :censored: I'm getting. I do know some basics about car repair and such but this I'm just not sure because of all of the conflicting information I'm getting and now I'm just getting confused more than anything. :wacko: I'll try to put as much info as I can think of and hopefully it will help if anyone can give me a straight answer on what is to do. I don't know anything about the previous owner(s) or how it was taken care of before.

Please keep in mind, I don't have a whole lot of money, I don't want to junk it, and that I just want it fixed without taking it to a repair shop or dealer.

Here's what's going on with it.

  1. It sucks down gas REALLY bad...sorry that's the only way I can put it
  2. It's blowing white smoke from the tailpipe (sometimes it looks a little greyish but mostly white) when I say "blowing", I mean it's litterally ROLLING out REALLLLLYYYY thick
  3. It blows raw fuel from the tailpipe
  4. It sputters some but otherwise runs really good
  5. It doesn't overheat that I've noticed
  6. I haven't noticed water in the oil or vice versa, BUT there is a smell of fuel on the dipstick
  7. the CEL was on BUT...long story=short version...battery disconnected & now I can't get the codes
  8. not sure if it's using a lot of oil or coolant because I haven't been running it alot (actually I'm a bit afraid to because of the fuel leaking & a few people have mentioned it's like a time bomb waiting to explode)...ummm YIKES?!?! :blink:

Here is a list of what I've done with it so far

  1. new injectors
  2. new spark plugs
  3. new VSV's
  4. new fuel pressure regulator
  5. new PCV valve
  6. cleaned EGR
  7. cleaned IACV
  8. cleaned throttle body
  9. replaced a few old vac hoses
  10. distributor & rotor still good
  11. changed oil & filter
  12. flushed radiator & replaced coolant

Been thinking it has to be the head gaskets & rings causing the smoke and raw fuel but have been told it couldnt be that. I've also been thinking that the guy that told me that is an idiot too though.:chairshot: LOL

I'd really appreciate any real advice and/or help....

Wow! It looks like you got a lot of work to do in that car so forget about not spending money. The bad fuel consumption is a sign that something is wrong with your emission systems or your engine. Also, a lot of white smoke, either head gasket is blown and coolant and oil is mixing together. Its easy to see that your car will need some money if you really want to hold on to it. Get a mechanic check it and ask him how much, and then if the quote is more than the value of your car then its time to sell your car for parts or junk it and get another es300 in better condition. Sorry brother, not to depress you or anything but sometimes you have to let go.... :(

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The best way to check to see if there's water in the oil, is to pull the oil drain plug. Oil floats on top of water, so the first thing to come out of the drain should be water, if there's any in there. White smoke usually indicates coolant or oil getting into the combustion chamber, which is usually a problem with a cylinder head or head gasket. You can also have white smoke from running lean, which would also give the symptoms of stuttering at higher RPMs, as well as excessive heat in the exhaust. (the cat can actually glow red).

If I were you, I'd first rule out that you have a head problem by pulling the drain plug on the oil and taking a look. Good luck.

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Update...

First I want to thank you guys for the advice and help.

I have a friend who is a mechanic. He won't charge me for the labor and all I have to pay for is the parts. The only thing is, he has the tools to fix whatever is wrong with it but he doesn't have the equipment to test the car to find out what is wrong with it. So, labor charge being out of the way...

I have a week until he gets back from vacation to take it to a shop to find out what is going on. I caught him just as he was leaving so I didn't get a chance to ask him what I needed to have them check.

I have a place just around the corner to take it to now so I don't have to drive all that far to get it checked out.

I'm assuming they will put the "sniffer" thing on the exhaust right? Does anyone know what else I need to make sure is done?

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The mechanic told me this afternoon that number 4 & 6 injectors were being held open. He thinks either the computer (ECM) is causing it or a short somewhere in the wiring. I'm curious though, would that cause it to smoke that bad and the other symptoms I've been having?

They are going to have someone look at it thoroughly tomorrow to try and track down exactly what is causing the injectors to stay open.

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The mechanic told me this afternoon that number 4 & 6 injectors were being held open. He thinks either the computer (ECM) is causing it or a short somewhere in the wiring. I'm curious though, would that cause it to smoke that bad and the other symptoms I've been having?

They are going to have someone look at it thoroughly tomorrow to try and track down exactly what is causing the injectors to stay open.

Yes definitely, raw fuel out the tailpipe as well as dark smoke is an indicator of way too much fuel. Also your terrible gas mileage. Here's a good snippet of how fuel injectors work.

A fuel injector is nothing more than a high-speed valve for gasoline. An engine computer or controller is used to control the fuel injector. Contrary to popular belief, this is NOT done by sending power to the injector. Fuel injectors are normally fed power whenever the ignition key is on. The computer controls the negative, or ground side, of the circuit. When the computer provides the injector with a ground, the circuit is completed and current is allowed to flow through the injector. This energizes an electromagnetic coil inside the injector, which pulls a sealing mechanism (pintle, ball, or disc) away from its seat. This makes it possible for fuel to flow through the injector and into the engine. When the computer removes the electrical ground to the injector, the electromagnetic coil becomes demagnetized and a spring forces the pintle, ball, or disc shut to cut off fuel flow. Even at an engine speed of just 1000 RPM, this is done hundreds of times per minute.

They should be able to narrow it down through testing, the electrical routing for the injectors is not that complicated.

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The mechanic told me this afternoon that number 4 & 6 injectors were being held open. He thinks either the computer (ECM) is causing it or a short somewhere in the wiring. I'm curious though, would that cause it to smoke that bad and the other symptoms I've been having?

They are going to have someone look at it thoroughly tomorrow to try and track down exactly what is causing the injectors to stay open.

Yes definitely, raw fuel out the tailpipe as well as dark smoke is an indicator of way too much fuel. Also your terrible gas mileage. Here's a good snippet of how fuel injectors work.

A fuel injector is nothing more than a high-speed valve for gasoline. An engine computer or controller is used to control the fuel injector. Contrary to popular belief, this is NOT done by sending power to the injector. Fuel injectors are normally fed power whenever the ignition key is on. The computer controls the negative, or ground side, of the circuit. When the computer provides the injector with a ground, the circuit is completed and current is allowed to flow through the injector. This energizes an electromagnetic coil inside the injector, which pulls a sealing mechanism (pintle, ball, or disc) away from its seat. This makes it possible for fuel to flow through the injector and into the engine. When the computer removes the electrical ground to the injector, the electromagnetic coil becomes demagnetized and a spring forces the pintle, ball, or disc shut to cut off fuel flow. Even at an engine speed of just 1000 RPM, this is done hundreds of times per minute.

They should be able to narrow it down through testing, the electrical routing for the injectors is not that complicated.

Thats very informative of you. I was just wondering if there was a way to differentiate lifter noise from fuel injector ticking.

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Okay I called the mechanic this afternoon, he tells me that it's the powertrain control module, and that the only place he's been able to locate it is at the dealership for $1300. :censored: Is'nt that the same thing as the ECU or ECM that's located behind the glove box? :unsure:

If that's true and if I get a rebuilt one, will it need to be re-programmed for my car?

I was told that it should already be reprogrammed if it's been rebuilt? I found one on ebay that says it's rebuilt and already been reprogrammed. Why would that not work? :huh:

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Okay I called the mechanic this afternoon, he tells me that it's the powertrain control module, and that the only place he's been able to locate it is at the dealership for $1300. :censored: Is'nt that the same thing as the ECU or ECM that's located behind the glove box? :unsure:

If that's true and if I get a rebuilt one, will it need to be re-programmed for my car?

I was told that it should already be reprogrammed if it's been rebuilt? I found one on ebay that says it's rebuilt and already been reprogrammed. Why would that not work? :huh:

I also have a good ecu and im sure i am alot cheaper then ebay good luck bud...adam

captainhowdy313@yahoo.com i acually have a complete car if your looking for anything else.

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hey,

i havent read any of the replies,

but back when i did have an 92 es300, which was about 7 months ago,

it smoked and it smelled like gas and it was white smoke, you could literally smell gas at the tail pipe, the guy who bought it, went to pipes got a new computer for 25$, and its good as ever.

fixed the problem

its most likely 99+% your computer.

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Update....

After about a week with the mechanic, $199 for the computer (ECM), and $285 labor & for other "minor" things that I wanted done personally, the car is finished and running GREAT!!! Thanks to everyone for all your help!

Now I know if anything like this happens again to this car or any of my other ones, I will know what to do.

Thanks again!

Jeffrey

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My car has been doing the same thing. 93 ES300. I have changed everything including the head gaskets. Will the ECM really fix this problem? I am ready to get rid of it. But if this will fix it i will try it. Thanks

I have 93 Lexus ES300, too. I have similar problems: white smoke, gas-smell, high RPM in low gear, really bad gas consumption. I am also wondering if changing ECM can fix these. Thanks.

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My car has been doing the same thing. 93 ES300. I have changed everything including the head gaskets. Will the ECM really fix this problem? I am ready to get rid of it. But if this will fix it i will try it. Thanks

I have 93 Lexus ES300, too. I have similar problems: white smoke, gas-smell, high RPM in low gear, really bad gas consumption. I am also wondering if changing ECM can fix these. Thanks.

It certainly fixed all of the problems I was having. I litterally had raw gasoline coming from my tailpipe, terrible gas cosumption (obviously), white smoke, etc... After I had the garage put the new ECM in, all of those problems are gone! I suppose I could have gotten a cheaper ECM elsewhere and replaced it myself but I really had no idea what I was doing BUT after seeing what was done and now knowing the "how to", I could definitely do it myself. I would try ebay or elsewhere for a rebuilt ECM if I were you. It would also be a good idea (in my opinion) to just DIY. Much less expensive and come to find out, it's probably not all that hard if you have a repair manual.

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My car has been doing the same thing. 93 ES300. I have changed everything including the head gaskets. Will the ECM really fix this problem? I am ready to get rid of it. But if this will fix it i will try it. Thanks

I have 93 Lexus ES300, too. I have similar problems: white smoke, gas-smell, high RPM in low gear, really bad gas consumption. I am also wondering if changing ECM can fix these. Thanks.

It certainly fixed all of the problems I was having. I litterally had raw gasoline coming from my tailpipe, terrible gas cosumption (obviously), white smoke, etc... After I had the garage put the new ECM in, all of those problems are gone! I suppose I could have gotten a cheaper ECM elsewhere and replaced it myself but I really had no idea what I was doing BUT after seeing what was done and now knowing the "how to", I could definitely do it myself. I would try ebay or elsewhere for a rebuilt ECM if I were you. It would also be a good idea (in my opinion) to just DIY. Much less expensive and come to find out, it's probably not all that hard if you have a repair manual.

Hi I have a 94 es300 I had the same problem.The smoking gas smell and so on. I had it fixed last week. It also was the ECM.

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  • 1 month later...

I have a 97 Es300, 161k with similar issues. Curious if it could 'simply' be the ECM and not something more sinister and costly.

Within the last 2 weeks, it has been progressively harder to start cold (longer crank time). Warm start doesn't readlily seem to be as affected. It used to crank within 1 second and on the first try. Now, the crank is up to about three seconds and usually takes more than 1 crank attempt.

Also, I've just noticed within the last few days a fuel odor immediately after start up that seems to dissipate after about a minute or two. The smell seems to be coming from the engine compartment and not the exhaust. I have noticed, though, that for upwards of the last year I have a decent puff of white(-ish) smoke from the exhaust upon start up that seems to dissipate within about 2 to 5 seconds. Haven't really noticed that get worse. (And haven't done the tailpipe sniff test, yet.)

Other than that, the car seems to ride great. No rough idle. No hesitation. Compression feels like it might be okay, though I don't know that I have the same amount of power I had when I bought this used back in 2001.

About 80% of my driving is hwy and my latest mpg is around 25-27. Don't know if that's really tremendous or if it could be bad and possibly an indicator of a problem.

I regularly have my oil and filter replaced within the 5k specs and with no mention of sludging problems that seem to plague this model year.

Any thoughts or assistance? I'd like to at least be able to speak knowledgably with a mechanic and not get taken or replace part/system after part/system without resolve. Thanks!

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