rjt65 Posted May 28, 2008 Posted May 28, 2008 JGT: Good to see ya back.... Some more ?'s for the gr8 detail doc (other experienced welcome to chime in too please) on polishing. I am thinking I will tackle this and buy Flex in the fall. 1) any idea? How thick is the paint on Lexus 350 Obsidian Black (no clearcoat) 2) Would you only Polish to remove scratches or would you recommend polishing every 2 years or so to increase base gloss, etc? 3) Temperature/sun/other environmentals -- Is it bad to do outside in Summer high temp's with sun and heat on the car ?, better to wait until the fall and a cloudy day? would under a tree be better than in a wide open driveway? better to do in a garage I know with proper fluorescent lighting (glad to say I am 80% done clearing garage to get her in there!) 4) with a new car (swirl and lite scratching all over from dumb-!Removed! car wash) is it necessary to clay before polishing? or is that not so beneficial as it is so new? 5) Verify that the proper process would be to: test one area to see if the polish and pad are the best (start with lighter cutting stuff first)..if so proceed, if not increase pad cutting. Than polish whole car in 2' x 2' areas (previous mask tape off all trim, plastic, molding etc), take break drink beer--- than polish whole car with gloss polish like sfx3 or equivalent. than UGP+ and carnuba. the 6) thoughts on using water and alcohol (80% h20 - 20% Alc.) on a MF towel to wipe car after polishing ? 7) for lot scratches from bad car wash is SFX2 the best or would the Sonus SwirlBuster Polish be better? (they call out Black cars for this one also at 25$ versus 10 bux for SFX2) I have to keep the DDOC busy on teaching!!! previous post from DDOC: I recommend Sonus SFX 2 and 3. These are mild polishes that are pretty safe to use, but do the job on any Lexus because of their ultra soft paint. If you get the DAS Pads, I would start with the green pad with SFX2, if that does not work then move up to the Orange Pad, then finish off with SFX 3 and the blue pad (these two are more for increase gloss, they don't really polish) If you get the Lake Country Pad I would start with SFX 2 and the white pad, if that does not work then with the orange pad then finish with SFX 3 and the gray or blue pad.
rjt65 Posted May 29, 2008 Posted May 29, 2008 HEY MB..... Nice shine! What year is the 300? And why do you only rate it a 6 out of 10 for a detail job? Looks pretty dang good to me. cheers :) I overslept. Start at 5:31 am...Then it was off to cut down trees etc http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=48188
SW03ES Posted May 29, 2008 Posted May 29, 2008 Its easier to detail out of the sun, although that depends on the products you're using. I'd definately clay the new car, they pick up contaminants on the boat, truck, train etc. Your black will be very easy to polish, you should only need a light polish.
JENunnez Posted May 29, 2008 Posted May 29, 2008 What do you guys think about Meguiars #2 fine cut for a lot of fine scatches. Do you think it's a little to harsh for lexus's soft paint? The previous owner must have dragged stuff back and forth on top of the trunk lid or maybe had cats, anyway I'm having a hard time trying to get rid of them. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
detaildoc Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 JGT: Good to see ya back.... Some more ?'s for the gr8 detail doc (other experienced welcome to chime in too please) on polishing. I am thinking I will tackle this and buy Flex in the fall. 1) any idea? How thick is the paint on Lexus 350 Obsidian Black (no clearcoat) 2) Would you only Polish to remove scratches or would you recommend polishing every 2 years or so to increase base gloss, etc? 3) Temperature/sun/other environmentals -- Is it bad to do outside in Summer high temp's with sun and heat on the car ?, better to wait until the fall and a cloudy day? would under a tree be better than in a wide open driveway? better to do in a garage I know with proper fluorescent lighting (glad to say I am 80% done clearing garage to get her in there!) 4) with a new car (swirl and lite scratching all over from dumb-!Removed! car wash) is it necessary to clay before polishing? or is that not so beneficial as it is so new? 5) Verify that the proper process would be to: test one area to see if the polish and pad are the best (start with lighter cutting stuff first)..if so proceed, if not increase pad cutting. Than polish whole car in 2' x 2' areas (previous mask tape off all trim, plastic, molding etc), take break drink beer--- than polish whole car with gloss polish like sfx3 or equivalent. than UGP+ and carnuba. the 6) thoughts on using water and alcohol (80% h20 - 20% Alc.) on a MF towel to wipe car after polishing ? 7) for lot scratches from bad car wash is SFX2 the best or would the Sonus SwirlBuster Polish be better? (they call out Black cars for this one also at 25$ versus 10 bux for SFX2) I have to keep the DDOC busy on teaching!!! previous post from DDOC: I recommend Sonus SFX 2 and 3. These are mild polishes that are pretty safe to use, but do the job on any Lexus because of their ultra soft paint. If you get the DAS Pads, I would start with the green pad with SFX2, if that does not work then move up to the Orange Pad, then finish off with SFX 3 and the blue pad (these two are more for increase gloss, they don't really polish) If you get the Lake Country Pad I would start with SFX 2 and the white pad, if that does not work then with the orange pad then finish with SFX 3 and the gray or blue pad. Wow, I was starting to worry about you guys, where have you all been? Below are my answers to your questions: 1)Usually Lexus vehicles have a healthy coat of paint, one of the thickest paints in Japanese cars and also one of the most even (around the same thickness all around) Of course, the bumpers and mirrors do have thinner layers of paint. 2)I polish 1 -2 times a year to remove scratches and swirl marks. You can also increase the gloss without removing clearcoat or paint by using SFX 3 with a finishing pad such as the blue DAS pad or blue/red/gray lake Country Pad. This will be purely to increase gloss without removing cc or paint. 3)Most polishes should not be used out in the sun, such is the case of Sonus and Menzerna. The reason being that it will dry up the polish quickly, which means you won't work the polish long enough to fix any damage, it will also result in dry polishing that can induce new scratches on your paint, and you risk burning the paint because of the extra heat provided by the sun. To be safe, always polish in the shade. With that in mind, polishing when it is very cold and humid can make it difficult to remove the polish (depending on the product you are using), this is especially true of polishes like Menzerna, but with Sonus, it is less of a problem. 4)New cars should still be clayed because by the time you buy it, it has already picked up a contaminants. You can use the Sonus green clay for your first claying, which is mild. 5)Sounds good, except that I would stick to SFX 2 as SFX 3 really has no cut and you won't be doing any paint correction, it is used more as a final polish to enhance gloss. Make sure you only put a little bit of polish on your pad, about a dime size. Most people when they start polishing make the mistake of using too much polish. 6)That's fine, except that the mix is 50/50, but personally, I prefer to use Menzerna Top Inspection http://store.pakshak.com/menzerna-top-inspection-16oz.html or here http://www.detailersdomain.com/index.asp?P...&ProdID=130 7)SFX 2 all the way. Swirlbuster is too mild and it contains fillers which are designed to temporarily cover up swirls, as opposed to removing them. I never use Swirlbuster, don't see the point to having to do several passes with it just to cover up swirls. By the way, check out this last detail that I did with my Flex and the Menzerna line. The damage on this car was beyond anything I've seen and the cc was real hard, but the Flex worked great. Just thought I would convince you to get the Flex: http://www.pakshak.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2024 There are pics on pages 1 and 2.
JENunnez Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 I had a bottle of meguirs allready but I'm going with what you suggested. SFX 2 and 3 are on the way to me. Your post explained what I was asking to. Thanks Doc
rjt65 Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 Hey DDOC.... Thanks and WOW for that Camaro revitalization you should be getting lunch for lifetime. amazing. Machine on the detail? Some more ?'s 1- Y did you use both the flex and Ultima Detail Machine? Y not just flex? 2- when you polish 1-2x year do u use sfx 2 all the time or sometimes sfx 3, or both each time ? 3- If using sfx 2 would you bother to follow up with coat of sfx 3 or go to wax or ugp next. 4- ARRGGHHHHHH--- No pain no gain - Found out that in a few weeks, a 4 month project will start-- ripping up my street and 3 other streets by me will occur. they will redo all driveway aprons, curbs, repack dirt base, rgb, and blacktop. 10 days i cannot use my driveway so will have to park around block or somewhere. The dust will be like the wild wild west, potential blacktop drippings oh no! having dirt streets for weeks ugghhh So I will be challenged any advice on how to battle this and stay clean? I will have to wait now to get the flex and as it makes sense to polish after this crap occurs. Car cover maybe, any suggestion's on product to take black top or tar off the car just in case? cheers PS - what do you buy from packshack , versus autopia or autogeek?
AZ08LexusES Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 Great job on that Camaro, it looks great. Hard to believe from what it looked like!
JENunnez Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 rjt65 sorry to hear that but let me tell you, I work for and at a asphalt paving company for the past 32 years. It's dusty when it's dry and muddy when it's wet, there's tar everywhere, machinery may drop oil, grease and you don't see it until you run over the stuff and it sticks to the car. I've seen people here use car a cover but the grit and dust get under the cover and with the wind you get a nice sanding action. Best thing is to keep up with the washing and waxing. To remove any tar some kerosene on a soft towel should do the trick and it does not harm the paint. Just my two cents. And I hope it goes by quickly(never does).
rjt65 Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 Thks JENunnez.....think 4 months of hell will apply here. kerosenes?... hmm thinking there should be a better product, I don't have kerosene and prefer to use a bottled product I think. We shall see. rjt65 sorry to hear that but let me tell you, I work for and at a asphalt paving company for the past 32 years. It's dusty when it's dry and muddy when it's wet, there's tar everywhere, machinery may drop oil, grease and you don't see it until you run over the stuff and it sticks to the car. I've seen people here use car a cover but the grit and dust get under the cover and with the wind you get a nice sanding action.Best thing is to keep up with the washing and waxing. To remove any tar some kerosene on a soft towel should do the trick and it does not harm the paint. Just my two cents. And I hope it goes by quickly(never does).
detaildoc Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 Hey DDOC.... Thanks and WOW for that Camaro revitalization you should be getting lunch for lifetime. amazing. Machine on the detail? Some more ?'s 1- Y did you use both the flex and Ultima Detail Machine? Y not just flex? 2- when you polish 1-2x year do u use sfx 2 all the time or sometimes sfx 3, or both each time ? 3- If using sfx 2 would you bother to follow up with coat of sfx 3 or go to wax or ugp next. 4- ARRGGHHHHHH--- No pain no gain - Found out that in a few weeks, a 4 month project will start-- ripping up my street and 3 other streets by me will occur. they will redo all driveway aprons, curbs, repack dirt base, rgb, and blacktop. 10 days i cannot use my driveway so will have to park around block or somewhere. The dust will be like the wild wild west, potential blacktop drippings oh no! having dirt streets for weeks ugghhh So I will be challenged any advice on how to battle this and stay clean? I will have to wait now to get the flex and as it makes sense to polish after this crap occurs. Car cover maybe, any suggestion's on product to take black top or tar off the car just in case? cheers PS - what do you buy from packshack , versus autopia or autogeek? You're welcome, and thanks. That Camaro took a lot to repair, but the results were well worth it. Now to your questions 1) I used the Flex on most of the car, but the UDM I used to hit the tight spots where the Flex won't reach. As of now, you can not get a smaller backing plate for the Flex to use with smaller pads, so the UDM was used for that purpose with a smaller backing plate and 4" pads. 2)On my car, I usually use Ultima Paint Prep Plus, but SFX 2 for parts that need something a bit stronger. Ultima Paint Prep Plus is a bit milder than SFX 2. You would be fine though using SFX 2 with a light polishing pad. I always finish with SFX 3 for more gloss if I use SFX 2, but not if I use Ultima Paint Prep Plus because the Ultima PPP leaves behind a primer to help Ultima Paint Guard Plus bond and last longer. When using Ultima PPP, I finish by applying more of the Ultima PPP but with a finishing pad, as it also produces a nice gloss. 3)You can, but I prefer to follow with SFX 3 for the gloss. 4) That sucks! You can cover up the car, but be very careful as car covers can cause serious marring on the paint. Better to park somewhere where they won't be doing that work. I have never had to use a tar remover, so I am not sure what would work best. I get my Menzerna, some waxes, Lake Country Pads, brushes, and all my Mf towels from Pakshak. Probably a few other things as well. Pakshak towels are some of the best. I no longer purchase from Autogeek, as I have had a series of bad customer services experiences, so I dropped them. Ranney at Pakshak and Phil at Detailers Domain are outstanding guys. I also prefer to support the little guys than a big conglomerate like AG. The only reason why I purchased from AG before was because of their large selection, but Ranney at Pakshak has expanded his inventory significantly. Just a personal preference, that's all.
rjt65 Posted May 31, 2008 Posted May 31, 2008 thanks as always ddoc.... u will get me up to snuff in no time, so really thanks for always responding. hers is some info I found on the net.$45 or so... for an attachment for the flex to use any size pads. 4" or 6".. limited run hope available soon..might be other places to get it. So what spots might be difficult with 6 " pads on the 350? test the new Flex Adaptor specifically designed so you can use all sorts of pads ! Pads will be perfectly centered (so no more off center pads which cause even more vibration )to the machine which in turn wear the bearings out very quickly. http://edgepadsonline.com/e2kflco.html http://youtube.com/watch?v=FykiFauXtB4
detaildoc Posted May 31, 2008 Posted May 31, 2008 thanks as always ddoc.... u will get me up to snuff in no time, so really thanks for always responding.hers is some info I found on the net.$45 or so... for an attachment for the flex to use any size pads. 4" or 6".. limited run hope available soon..might be other places to get it. So what spots might be difficult with 6 " pads on the 350? test the new Flex Adaptor specifically designed so you can use all sorts of pads ! Pads will be perfectly centered (so no more off center pads which cause even more vibration )to the machine which in turn wear the bearings out very quickly. http://edgepadsonline.com/e2kflco.html http://youtube.com/watch?v=FykiFauXtB4 On the 350, hard to polish areas include the trunk (all around the license plate) and the front around the grill, also the diagonal panels on both sides between the side view mirrors and the windshield. Yes, the edge adapted is new, not yet on full production. The edge pads are nice, but as of now, you have to convert your regular Flex backing plate to use these pads and this will void the warranty on your Flex, which is not a good. The UDM is also nice for applying a wax or glaze with a finishing pad.
JGTNewLexusOwner Posted May 31, 2008 Author Posted May 31, 2008 Hey ddoc, it is good to be back. And, now, I have another question. What do you use for to remove bug and tar debris from the front of the car? There are several options; Meguiars, Poor Boy, Dura Gloss...thoughts? Thanks.
detaildoc Posted May 31, 2008 Posted May 31, 2008 Hey ddoc, it is good to be back. And, now, I have another question. What do you use for to remove bug and tar debris from the front of the car? There are several options; Meguiars, Poor Boy, Dura Gloss...thoughts? Thanks. I actually just use Sonus 4 in 1 Total Cleaner diluted at a 30:1 ratio and it works great. You spray it on and leave it for a few minutes and it gets rid of that stuff really well. I've heard Meguiars is also good, but I have never tried it.
rjt65 Posted May 31, 2008 Posted May 31, 2008 DDOC: 4 in 1 Sonus? Can't seem to find that product, saw an all in one interior... do you have a link for it? For bad bird !Removed! stains on wifes truck i used the sonus paintwork cleanser (small dot) wiped on than all came off real nice... cheers Hey ddoc, it is good to be back. And, now, I have another question. What do you use for to remove bug and tar debris from the front of the car? There are several options; Meguiars, Poor Boy, Dura Gloss...thoughts? Thanks. I actually just use Sonus 4 in 1 Total Cleaner diluted at a 30:1 ratio and it works great. You spray it on and leave it for a few minutes and it gets rid of that stuff really well. I've heard Meguiars is also good, but I have never tried it.
rjt65 Posted May 31, 2008 Posted May 31, 2008 Vaccum cleaner? Has seen this on some websites and I think in this forum... Metro Vacuum VNB-83BA Vac N'Blo Auto Vac - Metro Vacuum..... Like over 200$ on autopia found for 138$ on amazon. What r u guys using? ciao
detaildoc Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 DDOC:4 in 1 Sonus? Can't seem to find that product, saw an all in one interior... do you have a link for it? For bad bird !Removed! stains on wifes truck i used the sonus paintwork cleanser (small dot) wiped on than all came off real nice... cheers Hey ddoc, it is good to be back. And, now, I have another question. What do you use for to remove bug and tar debris from the front of the car? There are several options; Meguiars, Poor Boy, Dura Gloss...thoughts? Thanks. I actually just use Sonus 4 in 1 Total Cleaner diluted at a 30:1 ratio and it works great. You spray it on and leave it for a few minutes and it gets rid of that stuff really well. I've heard Meguiars is also good, but I have never tried it. That's the one, the 4 in 1 interior cleaner. Don't know why they call it interior, it is used for everything since it is an All Purpose Cleaner. If you read the back of the bottle, it has dilution ratios for everything such as tar, bugs, grease, vinyl, fabrics, etc. http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-630.html. The paintwork cleanser works great.
detaildoc Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 Vaccum cleaner?Has seen this on some websites and I think in this forum... Metro Vacuum VNB-83BA Vac N'Blo Auto Vac - Metro Vacuum..... Like over 200$ on autopia found for 138$ on amazon. What r u guys using? ciao That's exactly what I use. It is great. You can use the blower side to blow out excess water from the mirrors, the grill, areas around the trunk, etc. Get it from Amazon, that's where I got it from. That thing is super strong.
rjt65 Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 :lol just ordered from amazon.... my last big buy will be the 200 $$ plus flex..but I will wait until roadwork is done.. Me and wife racing to deplete $$$$ me car and detail Supplies---wife getting new molding, chandelier, and other stuff for home (not mentioning all the clothes for her and daughters) haha Vaccum cleaner?Has seen this on some websites and I think in this forum... Metro Vacuum VNB-83BA Vac N'Blo Auto Vac - Metro Vacuum..... Like over 200$ on autopia found for 138$ on amazon. What r u guys using? ciao That's exactly what I use. It is great. You can use the blower side to blow out excess water from the mirrors, the grill, areas around the trunk, etc. Get it from Amazon, that's where I got it from. That thing is super strong.
JGTNewLexusOwner Posted June 1, 2008 Author Posted June 1, 2008 Hey ddoc, it is good to be back. And, now, I have another question. What do you use for to remove bug and tar debris from the front of the car? There are several options; Meguiars, Poor Boy, Dura Gloss...thoughts? Thanks. I actually just use Sonus 4 in 1 Total Cleaner diluted at a 30:1 ratio and it works great. You spray it on and leave it for a few minutes and it gets rid of that stuff really well. I've heard Meguiars is also good, but I have never tried it. Thanks ddoc!!! I tried the Ultima Quick Detailer Spray today as I was washing my car! I worked but it wasn't necessarily spray and wash...those darn bugs! Hey rjt, I used the P21-100% today (on my front hood only) and it really looks good! I think it takes off marks and leftover bug marks better than UPGP. Plus, the shine was very good (not as glass like but now I know what ddoc means by saying a deeper shine...it was dark when I finished and didn't take a pic but I could only notice the difference up close). However, on the rest of the car I used the UPGP - man is that easy and leaves a glass like shine! Detail #6 in the books since I have been able to (weather) in March/April (or whenever it was).
JENunnez Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 detaildoc I must say I was totaly wrong the way I was using my PC. I was use to using a circular buffer where you had to be extremely careful about not burning or hacking off the corner paint off a car( It was engraved in my mind) that was the only thing available at that time. I was using it in a quick manner, old school,been a while since I've done this, about 15 years and damn things have changed. That is why my dumb questions. I was living in the dark ages. I'm learning more now than ever, thanks to you and all the great people here on LOC. Old dogs CAN learn new tricks. I blame you rjt65 for getting me hooked into this again. I'm going to be the best looking IS350 in Miami!
detaildoc Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 What do you guys think about Meguiars #2 fine cut for a lot of fine scatches. Do you think it's a little to harsh for lexus's soft paint?The previous owner must have dragged stuff back and forth on top of the trunk lid or maybe had cats, anyway I'm having a hard time trying to get rid of them. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks You won't be disappointed. Are you using a Flex, PC, UDM, rotary?
JENunnez Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 Damn wrote it backwards < PC. Edited. Thanks By the way amazing job you did on that Camaro.
detaildoc Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 Damn wrote it backwards < PC.Edited. Thanks By the way amazing job you did on that Camaro. Lol! That's what I thought. Here are a couple of great videos on how to use a PC/UDM: http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/pc_video.html http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/menzerna.html and one comparing the PC and the Flex http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/flex_demo.html
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