Jump to content


Garage Lift For Your Lex


landar

Recommended Posts

This may be slightly off-topic...or not. I love to work on my LS400 and dont mind buying specialty tools to do my own work.

One of the most frustrating aspects (for me anyway) is crawling around on the cold garage floor, trying to position the hydraulic floor

jack, get the jack stands positioned and making sure the heigth is not too low, too high and most importantly, stable and safe.

I have been wondering how many of you DIYer's use this method? Or do you use ramps? How about a nice home garage lift?

I envy those garage mechanics who can put the vehicle on a lift and work on the brakes w/o bending down. Would be easy on my

arthritic knees too!

I think I could convince the frau to allow me to spend some $$ on a nice lift if one is available. Sure would be nice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Those ramps are a bit dangerous...Over shoot or a slip can happen... I use the jack stands and a slide board with wheels... That usually gives me enough room to do just about anything under the car...

Of course a hydraulic all wheel car lift would be the best choice, but that is not exactly cost effective or practical in a private garage...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a professional grade hydraulic floor jack and four heavy duty jack stands. I don't spend much time crawling around on the floor. It pays to buy a high quality, high range floor jack - skip the ones at the discount stores. A high quality floor jack may cost more but it will last a lifetime.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been meaning to build a set of ramps similar to what a friend uses. He's a diesel mechanic who works on highway coaches (MCI, Prevost etc). His ramps are made of .75" plywood glued together in layers, bolted (recessed) and stepped very gradually at one end for easy access. They are quite large, as they're designed for large vehicles. I would scale them down of course. Very stable, cheap, cannot collapse, but they have to use a spotter. In the garage I would just set marks on the floor to line up with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been meaning to build a set of ramps similar to what a friend uses. He's a diesel mechanic who works on highway coaches (MCI, Prevost etc). His ramps are made of .75" plywood glued together in layers, bolted (recessed) and stepped very gradually at one end for easy access. They are quite large, as they're designed for large vehicles. I would scale them down of course. Very stable, cheap, cannot collapse, but they have to use a spotter. In the garage I would just set marks on the floor to line up with.

Keeping ramps at a "set" position on my garage floor as I drive the car on has often proved to be problematic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been meaning to build a set of ramps similar to what a friend uses. He's a diesel mechanic who works on highway coaches (MCI, Prevost etc). His ramps are made of .75" plywood glued together in layers, bolted (recessed) and stepped very gradually at one end for easy access. They are quite large, as they're designed for large vehicles. I would scale them down of course. Very stable, cheap, cannot collapse, but they have to use a spotter. In the garage I would just set marks on the floor to line up with.

Keeping ramps at a "set" position on my garage floor as I drive the car on has often proved to be problematic.

Putting some rubber matting under the ramps usually solves the problem. Also making sure the slope is gradual helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

now a days, you can check the internet for a garage lift, cost about $2 to $3K for one. if you buy a garage lift, make sure you can lift from the frame otherwise, you will just have extra parking for another car underneath.

That sounds nice.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

I use an Autolifters 4-post lift with a 6000 pound capacity and runs on 110V. I highly recommend another brand though, this company is now out of business. The lift cost me 2795.00 plus 99.00 per jack bridge (i got 2 of those) and 250.00 for the phenolic castor kit to roll it around the shop or outside. (1998 prices) This lift is ok, but the Bendpak lifts have better pulleys and thats the main drawback with autoliters lift. I am eventually going to buy a BendPak lift and keep the Autolifters lift for lighter cars. It picks up my LS400 1992 just fine, and allows me to park my other cars or motorcycle underneath it. I have a 10 foot ceiling in my shop, so i have no problem parking another car underneath, just have to be careful when i open and close the garage door which its opening is 8 feet high.

I hate working on the floor and had a Z-car fall on me, luckily i had a safety stand under the car to save me. I bought the lift after that fiasco, and its been worth every penny. All you guys who really work on your cars will do it more if its a pleasure to do and not a chore. The lift makes the work not like work. All my friends want to come over and use it though. The money you save by not taking your car to a real mechanic can be put into the cost of buying a lift and fixing your ride yourself. It pays for itself, especially if you work on cars on the side. I work on Nissan Z's and anything Lexus or anything High End. The money will come if you are meticulous and honest.

later,

THE SNAKE

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership