Kelly Posted February 14, 2008 Posted February 14, 2008 I finally got my knock sensor replaced, after it failed and caused my transmission to be thrashed. (Apparently, on newer cars, there are 2 knock sensors and one helps control the shifting in the transmission). These are the codes I have left to figure out. P0171 - System to lean Bank 1 P0125 - Insufficient temp for closed loop P1133 - o2s B1S1 Circuit response fault Is this something thats relatively easy to replace myself, or should I bring it to a mechanic? I just got done spending close to 3 grand so I'm a little reluctant to spend a fortune at a mechanic again if its something easy I can do. The car in question is a 1999 ES300. Thanks in advance.
camlex Posted February 14, 2008 Posted February 14, 2008 P0125 (DI–43) Insufficient Coolant Temp. for Closed Loop Fuel Control Open or short in heated oxygen sensor circuit Heated oxygen sensor P0133 (DI–49) Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Heated oxygen sensor P0171 (DI–54) System too Lean (Fuel Trim) Air intake (hose loose) Fuel line pressure Injector blockage Heated oxygen sensor malfunction Mass air flow meter Engine coolant temp. sensor
mburnickas Posted February 15, 2008 Posted February 15, 2008 the scanner should tell you, in order, on what is wrong. Maybe P171 is causing the others to fail.
Kelly Posted February 15, 2008 Author Posted February 15, 2008 The way I wrote them down was the order the scanner gave the codes. Is it fairly straight forward to replace that O2 sensor?
mburnickas Posted February 15, 2008 Posted February 15, 2008 The way I wrote them down was the order the scanner gave the codes. Is it fairly straight forward to replace that O2 sensor? yea, it takes like 30 mintues
Kelly Posted February 15, 2008 Author Posted February 15, 2008 i found this Bank 1 sensor 1 is between the radiator and engine when you open the hood. It looks like a spark plug screwed into the header coming out of the engine, going down, and feeding into the exhaust.Bank 2 sensor 1 is between the firewall and the engine (back side of engine). It also looks like a spark plug screwed into the header coming out of the engine, going down, and feeding into the exhaust. Hard to see unless you get under the car. The 3rd sensor is on the top side of the exhaust pipe just after the catalytic converter. The connectection for this one is underneath the carpet under the driver seat. First and last are easy to replace. Trace wire to connector, disconnect, and unscrew. Remember to use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new sensor. The bank 2 sensor 1 works the same way but I haven't been able to reach the connector to get it disconnected. Its very hard to reach. Best place to buy that I found was at this link http://www.automedicsupply.com/index.php?r...&height=768 Good luck...Let me know if you better luck than I did replacing the bank 2 sensor 1. Seems quite easy, I'll pick up the part and have a buddy of mine help me out who is mechanically inclined. Im guessing b1s1 is pre cat front?
mburnickas Posted February 15, 2008 Posted February 15, 2008 download the FSM for free.It should again take like 30 minutes max and that is after BSing for 30% of it.
Kelly Posted November 4, 2008 Author Posted November 4, 2008 Just want to verify this is the right part for the error codes listed above.. Bank 1, Slot 1. http://www.automedicsupply.com/catalog.php...87054#Location0 rescanned today P0125 Insufficient Temp for Closed Loop P1133 O2S B1S1 Circuit Response Fault P1135 O2S1S1 Heater Circuit Open/Or Short. Thanks in advance. I guess I need to know which sensor this is for, there are 3 on the vehicle, but I cant seem to find which one is which. I don't wanna buy the wrong one. The mechanic told me 390 for the part and I found them anywhere from 80-200 depending on which sensor it is.
Loyal_Lexinator Posted November 10, 2008 Posted November 10, 2008 i found this Bank 1 sensor 1 is between the radiator and engine when you open the hood. It looks like a spark plug screwed into the header coming out of the engine, going down, and feeding into the exhaust.Bank 2 sensor 1 is between the firewall and the engine (back side of engine). It also looks like a spark plug screwed into the header coming out of the engine, going down, and feeding into the exhaust. Hard to see unless you get under the car. The 3rd sensor is on the top side of the exhaust pipe just after the catalytic converter. The connectection for this one is underneath the carpet under the driver seat. First and last are easy to replace. Trace wire to connector, disconnect, and unscrew. Remember to use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new sensor. The bank 2 sensor 1 works the same way but I haven't been able to reach the connector to get it disconnected. Its very hard to reach. Best place to buy that I found was at this link http://www.automedicsupply.com/index.php?r...&height=768 Good luck...Let me know if you better luck than I did replacing the bank 2 sensor 1. Seems quite easy, I'll pick up the part and have a buddy of mine help me out who is mechanically inclined. Im guessing b1s1 is pre cat front? Ok, One of the guru's please jump in here. I am in the midst of an O2 sensor problem as well, and downloaded the FSM for the 97 ES300, (mine is a 98).... and in the technical service bulletin, it says that bank one is between the engine and firewall... could someone please verify for me which is correct? I found the info on PDF page 99 of 273.... Thanks for your help guys... While i havent posted much, i have read lots here and i appreciate all of the shared info. Ron
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