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Which Type Of Oil?


jcrome04
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Ok so I just bought my 1997 LS400 a little over a month ago and only changed the oil once at a Jiffy Lube. I kind of want to start changing the oil myself again because all of the changing places including dealerships don't seem too trustworthy to me.

My car has 136k miles and I used the Castrol High Mileage oil.

Should I keep using this? Or switch to a Synthetic blend? Or go Full Synthetic?

I've read I should use 5W-30 and not 10W-30 in the 1UZFE. Is there a specific reason for this??

And what is the best type of fluid for the differential. I'd like to change that out too.

Thanks in advance!!!! :cheers:

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I have a 97 also I just bought with 140k miles. I started using Mobile 1 extended mileage full synthetic oil. I have changed it twice to date. I haven't had any complaints at this point and feel it should be giving me a little extra lubrication protection. You can buy it at Walmart in a 5 quart container and save a considerable amount of $'s. I am not a Walmart fan but it is the cheapest place I have found.

It really depends on the outside temperature where you are located for to choose the correct oil weight. I use 10W 30. Each oil manufacturer supplies that information in their literature or on the web.

For the differential I will defer to someone who knows more about that subject.

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For Washingtone State.....I would stick with 5W 30 year round personally. Do a search on the oil issue, there is a ton of info on the subject.

As for the differential fluid......I'd go with Amsoil synthetic personally. What grade is required in the LS? My guess is either 75W 90 or 80W 90. Some more info here...

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/fgr.aspx

:cheers:

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When I acquired my '93 it was suffering from a leaky rear main seal and 10k old dino juice (the likely culprit), I've been running 5w30 Pennzoil Plat synthetic since I got it and haven't lost a drop. My '02 Taurus was also carried from 60k miles to 83k miles on synthetic with absolutely no problems before I got rid of it.

I'd recommend it, but it's more expensive and you're certainly fine on regular oil if you keep up on your intervals.

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The high mileage oils I do not think are needed. They have seal swealers in them that might be covering leaks but that is me. I also like Amsoil, be using it for years but recently switched from the 5w-30 to there 0w-20. All I can say is wow. More power, smoother and more mpg. It will be better in colder and warmer places due to fluid properties.

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I ran that catrol high mileage stuff a few times before switching over to full synthetic, with no problems. Infact, the only difference I had was a smoother and quieter engine. :cheers:

Amsoil seems to be a favorite too, but for me it was and still is much easier to find Mobile 1 on the store shelf. I've had a hard time finding Amsoil stuff around my local auto stores.

mburnickas, your signature kills me :cheers: ! I know Mobile, Fairhope, Destin FloraBama area, and aside from needing to know the lyrics to Simple Man, spanish is right up there too.

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I don't buy that stuff in general to be honest. I don't believe in the 100k spark plug, the "lifetime" transmission fluid, or the extended life oil. The combustion chamber of an engine is one of the most hostile and abusive areas on earth "next to Hillary Clinton's bedroom". I'd stick with the 3-5k oil changes, especially on an older car like yours. Best to be safe than sorry. :cheers:

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Mobil EP should be able to go 15K no problem. I would test at like 10 to 12K just do do the normal baselines.

What is funny is the people that don't buy extended drains are the very ones that do not pull UOA or understand oils. Not knocking, people but the 3 to 5K drains are a total joke.

I have done longer drains for years, as the UOA show it (amsoil) can go much longer then what I do; even in a sludge prone engine.

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The high mileage oils I do not think are needed. They have seal swealers in them that might be covering leaks but that is me. I also like Amsoil, be using it for years but recently switched from the 5w-30 to there 0w-20. All I can say is wow. More power, smoother and more mpg. It will be better in colder and warmer places due to fluid properties.

Is their much difference price wise between the ASL 5W30 & the ASM 0W20? And is it really that noticable? I'm due for an order of Amsoil soon......was going to order the ASL, but I will consider the ASM......Just seems really thin to me....I've never had a problem with the ASL. :unsure:

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Is their much difference price wise between the ASL 5W30 & the ASM 0W20? And is it really that noticable? I'm due for an order of Amsoil soon......was going to order the ASL, but I will consider the ASM......Just seems really thin to me....I've never had a problem with the ASL. :unsure:

It is like $0.25 more per qt. My ES loves it, gained a little more mpg and engine responses better. ASL works but for me, the ASM wins hands down. In fact I ordered 5 gallons of it!

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I've been told by several sources to stay clear of Lucas products (their specifications come nowhere near the products I use). If you use a top quality engine oil or tranny fluid for example (in my case, both Amsoil synthetic) there should be no need for any additional 'additives'.

As for the fuel system.....using high quality gasoline should be sufficient along with proper maintenance. Once a year (on a long drive) I will use a bottle of Redline fuel system cleaner, and that's it.

:cheers:

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If you use a top quality engine oil or tranny fluid for example (in my case, both Amsoil synthetic) there should be no need for any additional 'additives'.

As for the fuel system.....using high quality gasoline should be sufficient along with proper maintenance. Once a year (on a long drive) I will use a bottle of Redline fuel system cleaner, and that's it.

:cheers:

After using LC20 in Amsoil ASL, I would never NOT use it. I thought I did not need it till the UOA's came back.

Lastly, with ethanol and crappy lubricity using it, I would use a fuel add, like now! But I do not use Lucas any longer since it is not liked but lots of testing people and after seeing it last year in the winter, no way.

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I don't buy that stuff in general to be honest. I don't believe in the 100k spark plug, the "lifetime" transmission fluid, or the extended life oil. The combustion chamber of an engine is one of the most hostile and abusive areas on earth "next to Hillary Clinton's bedroom". I'd stick with the 3-5k oil changes, especially on an older car like yours. Best to be safe than sorry.:cheers:

I'll go with NC on this one. Top grade fluids. Extreme schedule. No problems. No worries. Besides, the more often the changes, the more you get to check everything out and maybe spot something small before it gets big. Nothing beats knowing what needs attention.

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It is still funny people "do not buy anything" and have nothing to support it. Longer drains work, why? I have been doing them for enough time to know they do. Again know oils (basestocks and adds) nd what you need and how to read UOA, you are fine. Short drains are a total waste of manpower, time, resources.

Top grade products to know ensure zero

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Just today a guy with a 1991 Chevy Silverado hit the 1,000,000 mile mark. A Chevy, for cryin' out loud! In the article, he attributes the fact that he changed the oil every 3,000 miles to the trucks problem-free 1,000,000 miles. Now, that says something to me. My uncle who is a 747 pilot for UPS, has cars that go 300k+, from Chrystlers to Volvos to Nakitakimohakis, to riding lawn mowers over 20 years of age, and he says "change the oil every 3-5k miles, if for anything to just check out the underside of the vehicle". Personally, long life oils don't sell me one bit, no matter how much scientific reportings support it. Just my personal opinion. Not knocking the proceedure, as I'm sure it's probably fine. But for me, history repeats itself time and time again. :D

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20080212/ap_on_...lion_mile_truck

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