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Electrical System


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I have a 95' SC400. I've had it about 3 years now, I've done everything I was supposed to I think, i.e. Timing belt, Tune Up, Changed belts, Fluids, etc..

Recently I've been having power steering problems, and it's been narrowed to a leak in the high pressure line which is ridiculously expensive to replace for what it is. Right now I'm just keeping fluid in it till I can get around to it. My question is actually more related to the electrical system though..

What kind of output does the stock alternator do? I know this isn't a car audio forum, but I'm willing to bet that people here would know the electrical limitations of this car better than most at the car audio forums. I want to put in a complete aftermarket stereo and I'm just trying to figure out if the stock electrical system can handle it. The plan is a 4ch 450watt for the mids/highs and a 1000w class D or 1500w class D depending on whether I decide to go with one or two woofers.

I have already purchased the JL 450/4v2: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=438

Considerations for the sub amp are:

Sundown SAE-1000D: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...mp;productId=55

Sundown SAE-1500D: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...mp;productId=20

Cadence TXA-1000D: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=6102

SoundStream PCA1500D: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3194

There are a lot of options, but the output is relatively the same for each in it's respective class. I need to know if you think with that and a brand new battery, the existing stock electrical system is known to be stable enough to be able to handle the extra draw; of course it wont be at full bore all the time, but regardless, are there changes I should make as a precaution? Change the alternator? I found one company online that sells a high output @ 200 amps... but they quoted me ~$650. That just seems high for an alternator, unless one of you kind folks can point me to someone that can do better. Given the ratings on those amplifiers, in your expertise, would the stock alternator be able to keep up with them?

_______

On a side note, for the longest time I've noticed a strange behavior where when cruising at about 40-45 mph, a stuttering in performance. The car doesnt stall, but it acts as if it wants to. It's a constant stutter or hesitation that stops if you let off the gas completely and allow it to naturally deccelerate, or accelerate to a higher speed. It seems to only be happening at that particular cruising speed, and has never happened at any other to my knowledge. During this time, the tach does not fluctuate with what I am experiencing. No one has been able to properly identify the problem, nor has lexus voiced to me that they can even reproduce it, and when it was first mentioned last year, the unanamous recommendation was a tune up, which I did and it did not go away. It doesnt even do it all the time and seems to be slightly more prevalent before the car has fully had an opportunity to warm up.

Any and all input welcomed. Thank you in advance.

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Is it possible that your tranny is dropping in and out of overdrive?

I know you said the tach doesn't indicate anything, but if it is only for a moment it might not register.

I know mine drops into OD at about 40-42 MPH.

Tom

I never considered that, nor would I know what that would feel like. I still think it should be a smoother transition than that.

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What kind of output does the stock alternator do?

Factory OE alternator for a '95 SC400 rated 100 amps @12 volts.

I believe it is indeed 100amps. After much research I decided I pretty much have to upgrade the alternator. One company just quoted me 575 for a HO @ 180amps. Another 645 @ 200amps. Does anyone know where I might be able to do better than that?

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I have a 95' SC400. I've had it about 3 years now, I've done everything I was supposed to I think, i.e. Timing belt, Tune Up, Changed belts, Fluids, etc..

Recently I've been having power steering problems, and it's been narrowed to a leak in the high pressure line which is ridiculously expensive to replace for what it is. Right now I'm just keeping fluid in it till I can get around to it. My question is actually more related to the electrical system though..

What kind of output does the stock alternator do? I know this isn't a car audio forum, but I'm willing to bet that people here would know the electrical limitations of this car better than most at the car audio forums. I want to put in a complete aftermarket stereo and I'm just trying to figure out if the stock electrical system can handle it. The plan is a 4ch 450watt for the mids/highs and a 1000w class D or 1500w class D depending on whether I decide to go with one or two woofers.

I have already purchased the JL 450/4v2: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=438

Considerations for the sub amp are:

Sundown SAE-1000D: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...mp;productId=55

Sundown SAE-1500D: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...mp;productId=20

Cadence TXA-1000D: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=6102

SoundStream PCA1500D: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3194

There are a lot of options, but the output is relatively the same for each in it's respective class. I need to know if you think with that and a brand new battery, the existing stock electrical system is known to be stable enough to be able to handle the extra draw; of course it wont be at full bore all the time, but regardless, are there changes I should make as a precaution? Change the alternator? I found one company online that sells a high output @ 200 amps... but they quoted me ~$650. That just seems high for an alternator, unless one of you kind folks can point me to someone that can do better. Given the ratings on those amplifiers, in your expertise, would the stock alternator be able to keep up with them?

_______

On a side note, for the longest time I've noticed a strange behavior where when cruising at about 40-45 mph, a stuttering in performance. The car doesnt stall, but it acts as if it wants to. It's a constant stutter or hesitation that stops if you let off the gas completely and allow it to naturally deccelerate, or accelerate to a higher speed. It seems to only be happening at that particular cruising speed, and has never happened at any other to my knowledge. During this time, the tach does not fluctuate with what I am experiencing. No one has been able to properly identify the problem, nor has lexus voiced to me that they can even reproduce it, and when it was first mentioned last year, the unanamous recommendation was a tune up, which I did and it did not go away. It doesnt even do it all the time and seems to be slightly more prevalent before the car has fully had an opportunity to warm up.

Any and all input welcomed. Thank you in advance.

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I installed a system similar to what you are contemplating. My headlights dimmed everytime the subwoofer hit. A friend who installs car audio & visual for a living stated that eventually my alternator would fry along with other important electrical stuff. He recommended a capacitor to store the power needed when the subwoofer hits thus allowing the alternator to operate normally. I installed a 5.0 farad capacitor I bot on eBay for $60. Problem corrected.

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I installed a system similar to what you are contemplating. My headlights dimmed everytime the subwoofer hit. A friend who installs car audio & visual for a living stated that eventually my alternator would fry along with other important electrical stuff. He recommended a capacitor to store the power needed when the subwoofer hits thus allowing the alternator to operate normally. I installed a 5.0 farad capacitor I bot on eBay for $60. Problem corrected.

I decided to bite the bullet and order a new alternator. 180a @ $520. I'm not thrilled about it, but better safe than sorry. I have a 1 Farad Cap I'm putting in, as I was previously only going to run 1000 watts to the subs, and they say usually if you're going to run a cap to run 1 Farad for each 1k watts.. but, oh well.

Tell me, did you do the install yourself, or did you have it professionally done? (not that doing it yourself wouldn't be professional, but did you have it done at a shop I mean)

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