93ls400walt Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I've broken a couple of connectors over time. Just the locking tabs. Today while removing the alternator the electrical plug-in connector on the back of it was stuck and very brittle. I broke off the locking tab. After getting it out I saw that the terminals on the alternator were corroded. Anyway do you know any tricks as to keeping these connectors solid and not coming loose over time and vibration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aarman4 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I work on old diesel tractor engines on a regular basis, and what you do entirely sepends on how long(and how hard) you want it stuck... Superglue is by far the best thing you can use if you want it to stay on there solid for a long time, silicone will work quite well but may contain acid. If it is something you want to be able to disassemble again in the future, my best recommendation would be to take some locking wire (used on aircraft, but found at most tool centres) and loop it lengthwise (in line with the wires) around the clips and then tie it. Follow it up by wrapping it with black electricians tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwest Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I've broken a couple of connectors over time. Just the locking tabs. Today while removing the alternator the electrical plug-in connector on the back of it was stuck and very brittle.I broke off the locking tab. After getting it out I saw that the terminals on the alternator were corroded. Anyway do you know any tricks as to keeping these connectors solid and not coming loose over time and vibration? Nylon tie-wraps of one size or another will usually work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eatingupblacktop Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 If the terminals on your alternator were corroded, then I would replace the connectors rather than doing a cheap fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwest Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 If the terminals on your alternator were corroded, then I would replace the connectors rather than doing a cheap fix. Were they actually corroded are was the electrical protective grease, sometimes over-abundance of same, used on connectors by the factory mistaken for corrosion...? Hmmmm... Humbucking pickups Last heard that term from Donald Ducker in ~1955 in Memphis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eatingupblacktop Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Hmmmm... Humbucking pickupsLast heard that term from Donald Ducker in ~1955 in Memphis. Think modified Strat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwest Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Hmmmm... Humbucking pickupsLast heard that term from Donald Ducker in ~1955 in Memphis. Think modified Strat Purchased a Gibson "Lucille" at the 2000 Memphis Blues Ball with BB's signature but still trying to coordinate a time/place for him to actually play it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eatingupblacktop Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Better do it soon, he's gettin' on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ls400walt Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 Just some light corrosion. Used some elec. cont. cleaner and a fine wire brass brush and the cleaned up nicely. The alternator brush holder was full of the worn carbon dust and the inside of the alt. was full of P/S oil. I sprayed out the alt with two cans of alt. elec. cleaner. ( Autozone ). and changed the brush holder.( Park Place Lexus-Plano online) $15.00 for the part. Put it back together and had it tested at Autozone. Ran it twice and Passed both times. I bought the P/S pump seal kit from Park Place also. ( $24.00 ) Replaced all of the external O-Rings. I don't have a vise or slide hammer. And could not get the rotor shaft out to change the two internal O-rings or the shaft bearing and seal. Sad for that, but the pump worked fine, the issue was the ext. leak. Both are back on the car. Just have to put the Radiator hoses and belt back on. Hope all is well after I fire her up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eatingupblacktop Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Nice job. Still, don't like keeping connectors that are brittle and have already broken once. Btw, I'm guessing you applied some dielectric grease on the terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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