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Body Shop In Toronto, Canada


timd
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All,

I've got a '95 SC400 which some absolute !Removed! bumped the other day and I now have a dent just next to the joint with the rear fender on the drivers side.

I think it should be a fairly easy repair since the dink is accessible through the trunk and a few taps with the right tools should be able to work the damage out.

Unfortunately the a**hole chipped the paint and the area is going to require refinishing. While it's at the shop I'll get the rear and front fenders done too - might as well.

It's really important that the job is first rate and done by someone who understands how to match and blend metallics and use the right amount of flex in the paint mix – too often you see apparently good fender jobs craze and cobweb at the slightest hint of pressure – the result of an incorrect paint mix.

Any recommendations for a great body shop in the GTA??

Thanks.

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All,

I've got a '95 SC400 which some absolute !Removed! bumped the other day and I now have a dent just next to the joint with the rear fender on the drivers side.

I think it should be a fairly easy repair since the dink is accessible through the trunk and a few taps with the right tools should be able to work the damage out.

Unfortunately the a**hole chipped the paint and the area is going to require refinishing. While it's at the shop I'll get the rear and front fenders done too - might as well.

It's really important that the job is first rate and done by someone who understands how to match and blend metallics and use the right amount of flex in the paint mix – too often you see apparently good fender jobs craze and cobweb at the slightest hint of pressure – the result of an incorrect paint mix.

Any recommendations for a great body shop in the GTA??

Thanks

I'm not sure what a !Removed! is but your pic with help! Paint repair is both an art, skill and "experience". What your wanting for the bummbers is "flex agent" added to the bumper paint - with out it, there is no flex capability. Most good shops will add this, especially if questioned/ask for! it changes the wet-out so the car is painters/blended separately. As for the paint there are three basic type: soild colors, two stage with metallics, and tri-coat; all are formulated with base color and top with clear, except tri-coat which has a factory intermediate coat of pearl or pearl/metallic (between base color and clear). Most all Lexus very light colors that look pearl or essence are tri-coat (i.e., white code 51). Most skilled professional paints can blend base and clear, some -approximately 1 out of 25 can blend two stage metallics, very few many 1 in 250 can blend tri-coats correctly. Most all insurances are based on panel complete because the defficultly with blending. Do appreciate that many color codes as read from the car VIN tag could have many "color variations" - in the 80's, 90's and early 2000's until paint batch tagging was instituted, this means for simple black (2-stage, Es 300) there are about 3 "variation paint" formulas that could be possible and white tri-coat = about 3. Therefore besides the difficulty blending the paint, the correct match has to determined and it will stand out like a sore spot with in correct color blends, but not as noticeable when completed to an edge. Only skill painters knows what to do!!! They try to stay only with the factroy formulas otherwise its a its trial-by-error and a color blend science; Paint matching by machine or mass-spec scanning is only 60% close for tri-coats, about 80-95% color accurate for base coats with metallics and some pearls (to 5% wt) because of the "flop agent" that is factory additive to control the metallics and pearls reflection position, and solids can be very exact. Some factory pacs or availble, but not very often.

I hope this paint appreciationn helps = find a good reliable shop, probably as recommended by lexus or good referral, get an estimate before hand then inspect the paint in the sun light (full spectrum white light)

Mark.blend, Denver

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