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Changing Oil

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i need to change oil in my 92 sc400. do i have to remove the cover under the engine to get to the filter? i see the oil plug but not the filter. what kind of oil and filter should i use? i notive that the oil level is down about 2/3 of a quart and it's time for an oil change. is this normal since i tend to cruise it at 75-80 mph? the car has 85k miles on it. thanks

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How long are you going between oil changes? What kind of oil are you running? What kind of gas are you running?

From consulting the diagram it looks like the 1uz filter is located on the front driver side of the engine just askew and lower right of the serpentine belt if you are facing the car. It could be removed from underneath but the panel will need to come out. I remove my filters from the top on the SC3. I like Fram oil filters. Toyota OEM filters are very good. I also like to run a 5/30 synthetic.

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2/3 quart would make me want to watch a little but may not be a problem. Just check periodically for the first few months and see what ya got. Change the drain plug gasket while you're at it. Slow little meaningless drip can add up over time.

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Spend an extra dollar and buy the Toyota oil filters. I don't remember the part number but it's the same as a '90 4-runner with a V6. AWJ, be careful and cut open a Fram filter with a hacksaw and then do the same to a Toyota filter. I don't think you will use a Fram after that. Wix make good filters as well if you can get them. Think of an oil filter as the car's kidney, you don't want a cheap kidney.

Wick

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Not trying to hijack the thread or anything, this is to follow along with Wick's comment.

You know, I want to know your guy's opinions on oil filter and changing. I change my filter every oil change, but know some people that change theirs every other oil change. They empty the filter and use the same one. Their reasoning is, the filter has already caught particles and those make the holes in the filter smaller, so it can now catch smaller particles. <_< It does sound reasonable, but I don't know if it's really realistic. I haven't done studies on oil and filters, so I don't know. I think K&N oil filters actually suggest doing it this way. I've always used Fram. I've tried Mobil 1 filters and I saw no difference in oil pressure, or temperature. Which to me is what matters. All oil filters catch metal and other debree. That's their job, so how different are different oil filters, really?

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Open up a few filters and you will see the difference. There is an anti-drain back valve on some filters that is very important on some cars. I would never reuse an oil filter. Do you put on dirty socks after you get out of the shower? Your oil is your life blood of your motor and you want it free of all contaminants.

And about different brands of filters. There was a site a few years ago and some anal engineer did all of this research and testing of all types of filters. What he found was that Fram has the biggest percentage of the market for oil filters but they were the worst when it came to filtering out contaminants. The internal construction was cheesey and just not a good product. He found almost all OEM filters to be of very high quality with Wix and Delco not far behind. K&N filters were to be of excellent quality as well be he felt the price was the downfall of them.

Go to Walmart and buy a Fram filter and take it home. Use a hacksaw and cut it open at the base

(close to where it screws on the motor). You will see it's a piece of junk.

Wick

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Re whether to change filters with each oil change.

These once were quite expensive cars, and the quality shows.

Oil filters are cheap, in the grand scheme of things - oil, too.

Change the oil and filter at recommended intervals, or less.

I've used Mobil 1 since break-in. I used to use Fram filters, but switched to Wix after reading the study linked above. Then I bought a case of Toyota filters for my Highlander, and what do you know, they're the same as for the SC300, so Toyota filters for me.

I bought them from Toyotaguys.com, which is now quite different than it used to be, and no longer appears to sell filters by the case. I'm sure they're available online somewhere, much cheaper than at dealers.

A local parts store has a Wix display with a cutaway Wix next to a cutaway orange unbranded filter I assume to be a Fram. Pretty significant differences.

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Well last night before I read this I was buying some parts for another car we're working on, and they had Wix filters there, so I just about one to try it out. After reading the link, I'm glad I did. I almost bought am Amsoil filter, but they didn't have the right one in stock. So I guess I'll never buy a Fram again :lol: If I had to use a Fram in some weird case, I would probably just use a block off plate on the Oil block so the dirty oil just goes straight into the pan and just save myself 3 bucks. :rolleyes:

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i checked my owner's manual. it said it was normal for the car to consume oil because of of several reasons and because of highway high speed driving, which is 95% of my driving.

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I went to Toyota and bought the Supra oil filters. It's one for $4.99 or 3 for $12.

That comes out to be cheaper than the tough guard fram crap.

Mobil1 Synthetic is the only oil that goes into my engine.

Using synthetic with a fram filter is a waste of money.

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What kind of deal did you get for buying 20? Send me 10 and I'll put a check in the mail for ya

tomorrow. he he

Wick

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I wonder if we could get a really great deal if we got some of us together and bought like 5-600 oil filters. :D

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;) I hear lots of opinions but few actual facts. Contact a oil analyst place. There is one in Oakland, CA and others around the country. A spectro and chemical analysis of you oil will run around $40.

They are also great for questions about motor oil weights and temperature etc.

Amsoil sells a sampling kit.

I have had GREAT luck with them and they are helpful. Amsoil also sell very good products, like a reusable air filter abd the oil. Their filters are desinged to trap particles about half the size of other brands.

I agree that true synthetics are best and use Mobile One 5-50W. A petro to synth change-over should be done with a crankcase flush.

Glen (SC400) and former semi-pro cycle racer

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Ok toyota would have my head for this if they ever found out that i'm letting this little company secret out...(i'm a tech for lexus btw)...but if you go to a Toyota dealership..there "Toyota" brand filters are usually rebadged Fram filters! However if you go to Lexus to buy your filter you will find that even though it also says Toyota on the side it is a genuine Toyota Filter....also if you want a little bit better filtering (in theory) and you own an SC300 buy the V8 filter anyway the mating surface and thread size are exactly the same....i've been doing this and it seems to be working...the only downside is that in cold weater it takes a little longer for the oil to get to the top of the engine so you may want to switch back in winter.

Just in case you are curious here is how you can tell the difference between a genuine filter and a knock off...(since they won't tell you) :chairshot:

If the filter has plastic on the sealing side and is lubricated it is a genuine toyota filter...however if it doesn't and it's dry that's a fram wannabe...now these are not bad filters but the genuine ones are still much better...

Also Lexus and Toyota in general (at least around where i'm at it may differ elsewhere) use Valvoline Semi-synthetic oil...this is a proven oil for Toyota and Lexus as i have seen dealer serviced vehicles with over 350,000mi. on them!!!

Hey as far as the car being 2/3 low on oil...if it has an aftermarket filter on it chances are they have a policy where that car was serviced that you don't fill it all the way up....it's easier for them not to learn the exact specs of the engine so they probably only put 5.5 qts. of oil in your car rather than the full 5.9. Just a thought.

Hope this is helpfull! :cheers:

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hey i just read the entry about amsoil...i have to say i do like there stuff and know of a few people who will never go back to normal oil ever again.

a little tidbit of info to impress friends at car gatherings

government specs for oil ratings

"full" synthetic oil....59% synthetic oil minimum (the rest could be rejected toxic waste for all we know)

semi-synthetic....29% synthetic oil minimum

amsoil advertised 100% synthetic oil...not full synthetic...and i believe they are the only ones

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Wick: I could send you ten for 50$. But that is the best I could really do. We can do COD if you are really interested. PM me if so.

Lextech: It never ceases to amaze what dealerships do to make a buck. I know they are business and need to meet overhead and then eat and feed their children but c'mon. When is enough, enough? Anyways, thanks for that tid bit of info.

This is becoming quite an interesting thread. I appreciate everyone's input here. I might put the link in the faq if I remember to. Happy oil changes.

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