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JimsGX

Switching Motor Oil

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This person is trying to turn this post into a p!ss!ing contest. Too bad he cannot resort to the same standards as the rest of us.

I have used Redline oil for many years, and did so in my 3SGTE engine. Then again, I was developing in excess of 400HP at the rear wheels from a 2 litre engine, and you can bet that putting any engine oil through 21psi of constant boost with overboosting at 24-27psi you made damn sure to find the best oil out there. Did I take an engine oil analysis, no. Didn't need to. Did I change my oil at "recommended" change intervals, no, car was no longer under powertrain warranty due to modifications. Did I change often, yes, sometimes every 6 to 8 weeks, depending on driving. Then again I used common sense.

I do not change my oil based on "pulling UOA", and for that matter 99% don't either. Why? Because it's not practical and nor is it time or cost efficient. Common sense dictates over factual procedures. I don't need an oil analysis to tell me whether at 5000k my oil is still protecting my engine or not.

I do not drive (nor my wife for that matter) my 400h like I do my M5 or my previous vehicles the same way. This vehicle requires to be reliable and trouble free for myself and more importantly for my wife. I understand quiet well what is going on inside a passenger engine and am as reasonable as the next person. If you use a manufacture rated conventional or superior motor oil, and change the oil at the factory recommended intervals you will easily satisfy all aspects... it's common sense. Also, I bet a majority of 400h owners present here on the board will not own there vehicles in 3-5 years, now I am not saying they won't care for there vehicles, but c'mon get real. Pulling UOA's? What for?

Cheers

MadloR

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Still lacking support of any real data to your drain. Another person/post guessing on something. It is not cost efficient to spend $18 average??? I do not bet here since I know what I have in my engine; unlike you. Spending about 30 seconds to drain some oil is not practical? Are you kidding me. I guess money is not integral to knowledge.

You do not even know what you had when you drained the oil. <clueless> You are still missing the valuable importance of UOA yet again; I expected that. You do not need UOA's? Oh ya you will not pay $18 but "think" you need to drain at some 6 to 8 weeks based on nothing. I guess you are better then, Mack, Cat, US Military, Exxon/Mobil, etc since they all utilize this tool; and not only for "changing the oil".

If is funny and what do I know. I just design military trucks and work with these people on a daily bases. Common sense is nice for people who do not understand more in-depth practices. The factory recommended intervals are for people who like a "manual for dummies" or want things handed to them without thinking. Not attacking but I say this since these numbers, in the manual for drains, have some much FOS it is a joke. It is based on $$$, not anything more.

Your before posts would mean nothing if you did some items I listed above, many times.

It is not a "p!ss!ing contest" but rather a forum to post real world info. No guessing in my posts, you yes.:whistles:

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mburnicus,

You sound as if you actually believe that car manufacturer's don't do any testing oils/oil changes and their effect on engine life. Corvettes, as many other vehicles, have oil life monitors that display the percentage of remaining oil life. The algorythm that is used to calculate this life is based upon number of startups, length of driving time, and engine oil temperatures, all of which are monitored. My Corvette manual states that oil should be changed when the remaining oil life percentage is zero or 12 months from the last oil change, whichever occurs first.

Let's say you are a design engineer for GM and you tell your boss that using this algorythm will pretty much guarantee that the engine will last more than 200,000 miles. Your boss responds that he would like for you do replicate your year-long testing, only this time, using Amsoil. You ask, "Why would I do that when I know that this oil, at a much lower cost, will allow these engines to last 20 years or more?" Your boss replies, "Well, based upon my own OAs, I believe the Amsoil-protected engine will last another 20,000 miles!"

Is this a reasonable scenario in any business? ....quite simply, never. It makes no business sense to the company or the consumer.

By the way, bobistheoilguy.com tested quite a few oils for longevity (yes, using OAs every so many miles) and found that Mobil 1 5W-30 in LS-1 engines lasted more than 12,000 miles before needing to be changed. Obviously, your ash fear is unfounded.

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#1 My wifes car, olds alero 2002 (GM) product has an OLM. I also test the oil since the OLM has me, the owner, draining before needed (too soon). UOA find more life left and keep using. Also I would not work for GM, crappy products. The OLM has MAJOR FOS integral to it.

#2, no one has posted anything to why they drain rather then what they "think". No supporting data. Poor reasons since no one has anything conrete on there oil being poor and needs drains.

#3, I trust BITOG site like salesman since they are. Look at there ADD forum. Can you say a joke. Some threads have no basis either, removed for no reason other then $$$$.

#4, so again people are using others people posts as there own? I like to know how MY engine runs etc and no use someone else data. That is a poor way to" think" your engine "might" do.

#5, I dislike Mobil based on my own personal findings, NOT someone elses. Case in point, people are shooting in the dark.

#6, do you know why I dislike ash? It has ZERO to do with oil longevity here. If you understood oil, you would not even have posted that comment.

To close, this thread is full of all kinds of poor reasons. Post some UOA's to support your OWN finds. Until then, this is a typical oil thread of mis-info and poor logic. Maybe I should change my oil since someone in another forum, 2 years ago, said I should at some time. Sounds like everyone else here <unreal>

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Still lacking support of any real data to your drain. Another person/post guessing on something. It is not cost efficient to spend $18 average??? I do not bet here since I know what I have in my engine; unlike you. Spending about 30 seconds to drain some oil is not practical? Are you kidding me. I guess money is not integral to knowledge.

You do not even know what you had when you drained the oil. <clueless> You are still missing the valuable importance of UOA yet again; I expected that. You do not need UOA's? Oh ya you will not pay $18 but "think" you need to drain at some 6 to 8 weeks based on nothing. I guess you are better then, Mack, Cat, US Military, Exxon/Mobil, etc since they all utilize this tool; and not only for "changing the oil".

If is funny and what do I know. I just design military trucks and work with these people on a daily bases. Common sense is nice for people who do not understand more in-depth practices. The factory recommended intervals are for people who like a "manual for dummies" or want things handed to them without thinking. Not attacking but I say this since these numbers, in the manual for drains, have some much FOS it is a joke. It is based on $$$, not anything more.

Your before posts would mean nothing if you did some items I listed above, many times.

It is not a "p!ss!ing contest" but rather a forum to post real world info. No guessing in my posts, you yes.:whistles:

I can say the same, you have not supplied any proof contrary to what EVERY automobile manufacture states. Hmm, oh well, I guess your right and everyone else in the automotive world is wrong, including the drivers who own them.

LMAO!

MadloR

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My, oh, my, some of you guys are intense.

One case of several I know of:

Former girlfriend, not exactly a car nut, had her oil changed at some kind of quick lube place on a fairly regular interval, didn't keep hard copies of receipts, quick lube place went out of business and hence she could not obtain oil change records after the fact, had a major engine failure 2000 miles out of her 50,000 mile warranty, failure was a broken timing belt obviously not related to lubrication, and the manufacturer flat-out refused to consider any sort of financial assistance. Sure she could sue, complain to regulatory authorities, which would have got her zip. Or she simply could have kept proof that she followed the recommended oil change intervals of her owner's manual and may have received some monetary help, particularly if those oil changes had happened at the dealer.

So I'll just change my oil every 5K, keep receipts, and be fat, dumb and happy.

Tom

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Good story but a TB breaking on a car will causes issues and some with. Oil was not integral to the break, as you stated. But will causes fuel to enter engine into oil and excess wear. Proof of oil changes would do nothing here since they factory rep would do what I do, pull a UOA since they will no trust the customer. No matter what they are out.

I am intense, time for a drink! Long week.

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I can show proof but it is company property, no-no. Again I just design powertrains for our military trucks. I like my past history since it comes in very handy. I laughed when I saw the US gov mandates oil testing prior to oil draining. Nevermind C7 cat engines etc. :)

I never said anyone is dumb or stupid. I just said I am the only one with proof (aka UOA) when my oil performance is exhausted. Others "think"...

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Hi,

When I started this thread I never thought it would turn into such a highly debated topic!

I found this article that focuses on motorcycle, automotive, and diesel engine oils. I found it very informative and I hope you will too...

All About Motor Oil

Thanks,

Jim

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mburn,

Please, either slow down or take some grammar lessons. I'm getting a headache when I read your posts! <_<

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mburn,

Please, either slow down or take some grammar lessons. I'm getting a headache when I read your posts! <_<

This is from the guy that does not do UOA too right? :cheers:

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There was no such thing as "UOA 101" when I was going to school! By the way, one of the Corvette forum's UOA oil gurus found that European formula Castrol 0W-30 synthetic oil is among the top UOA oils, although many of us feel that even though this is good info, few of us will have our cars beyond 200,000 miles, anyway. I will be about 84 years old by the time that happens......

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There was no such thing as "UOA 101" when I was going to school! By the way, one of the Corvette forum's UOA oil gurus found that European formula Castrol 0W-30 synthetic oil is among the top UOA oils, although many of us feel that even though this is good info, few of us will have our cars beyond 200,000 miles, anyway. I will be about 84 years old by the time that happens......

There is no UOA 101 now either. It is called self eduction, talking to tribologists, oil people etc. I am not knocking any certain oil. I am however knocking that people keep using someone else UOA's and that means ZERO. Again most "feel", based on lack of raw data, like you do. It is not wrong but I would rather know for sure if(100%) or spend $18 (approx) then basing my investment on a "feel" or other peoples data (no-no).

Again do not use Corvette forum's UOA since that is like when BITOG site was pimping GC (same thing as the vette) and now that is gone...

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First of all, not everyone has the same "access to resources". So then, common sense kicks in. I don't give a rats patootee what some UOA report is going to tell me, if you change your oil often enough you are not doing inherit damage. We are talking about a Lexus that is covered by a warranty, a very good one at that. No gut feelings there, just good ol fashion common sense. So your internal privey to information or facts and such that you cannot share do not justify your point of view. On the other hand, we have the proof of the owners manual, and it doesn't get any more clear than that. Black and white, baby, Black and white. Any questions? No? Good, case closed.

As for the validity of pulling UOA that was not the topic of this posting.

Cheers,

MadloR

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Well said, MadloR.

As an engineer, the UOA stuff is interesting. But it's a rare Lexus owner who is going to crawl under his car, remove an access panel, draw a sample of oil (I don't even know how to accomplish this without making a complete mess), reinstall the access panel, find a company to do the UOA, deliver/ship the sample to them, and then act on the results.

FYI, I also play on a Porsche 968 site. I haven't seen the subject of a UOA mentioned, even in a group of gearheads. (They prefer to debate oil brands and viscosities until the cows come home.)

Tom

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Well said, MadloR.

As an engineer, the UOA stuff is interesting. But it's a rare Lexus owner who is going to crawl under his car, remove an access panel, draw a sample of oil (I don't even know how to accomplish this without making a complete mess), reinstall the access panel, find a company to do the UOA, deliver/ship the sample to them, and then act on the results.

FYI, I also play on a Porsche 968 site. I haven't seen the subject of a UOA mentioned, even in a group of gearheads. (They prefer to debate oil brands and viscosities until the cows come home.)

Tom

Excuse me in advance :whistles: These forums have had too many "OIL" topics that gone by way of the DINOsaur. Time for something new. This topic is way beat................My opinion=.02cents :cheers:

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.02 cents?

Now THAT'S not worth much, these days...... :chairshot:

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MadloR- So now proof in a manual (recommend drains) show anything on the condition of oil?? LMFAO!

Take my work outside the picture here Madlor. Since I was doing this long before my present job, as I noted prior. It is a fact the UOA are a great benefit but most will NOT pay the large amount of $$$. They play the "I do not understand it", too hard, too much $$$ blah blah but do not even try here. I do not want to jeopardize my engines to a "boilerplate" manual when it comes to things as oil, coolants, fluids etc; You take the little Lexus manual that has so much FOS in it for service, it is a flat-out joke. I will pay someone to test my oil/fluids since it again does a lot more then "checking to see how long oil/fluid will last". That madlor is what makes you really understand your engine. It again has saved my hundreds of dollars and nothing to even do with oil changes either.

Gryphon-I agree it is rare for a lexus owner to even fill air in their tires too. But most will pay the outrages prices of "the man" at the stealership. Remove a panel to take a sample of oil (about 2 oz)? You can pay a lab, with shipping folks, from 16 to over $50 to test your oil. Some give you some data and some give you the works. The more you know the better. The best is you can takes a huge 10-minutes to take the sample and even get the USPS to pick it up at your home. You cannot beat that.

Most forums will not get into UOA's for reasons I posted prior. If you post info on oils without UOA's, you are talking out your a$$. Even raw unused oil data is not integral to oil performs in the real world.

RX400h- $0.02 cents will get you a smile at the dealership before they rape you! LOL

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MadloR- So now proof in a manual (recommend drains) show anything on the condition of oil?? LMFAO!

Take my work outside the picture here Madlor. Since I was doing this long before my present job, as I noted prior. It is a fact the UOA are a great benefit but most will NOT pay the large amount of $$$. They play the "I do not understand it", too hard, too much $$$ blah blah but do not even try here. I do not want to jeopardize my engines to a "boilerplate" manual when it comes to things as oil, coolants, fluids etc; You take the little Lexus manual that has so much FOS in it for service, it is a flat-out joke. I will pay someone to test my oil/fluids since it again does a lot more then "checking to see how long oil/fluid will last". That madlor is what makes you really understand your engine. It again has saved my hundreds of dollars and nothing to even do with oil changes either.

Gryphon-I agree it is rare for a lexus owner to even fill air in their tires too. But most will pay the outrages prices of "the man" at the stealership. Remove a panel to take a sample of oil (about 2 oz)? You can pay a lab, with shipping folks, from 16 to over $50 to test your oil. Some give you some data and some give you the works. The more you know the better. The best is you can takes a huge 10-minutes to take the sample and even get the USPS to pick it up at your home. You cannot beat that.

Most forums will not get into UOA's for reasons I posted prior. If you post info on oils without UOA's, you are talking out your a$$. Even raw unused oil data is not integral to oil performs in the real world.

RX400h- $0.02 cents will get you a smile at the dealership before they rape you! LOL

The down and dirty issue here for me is keeping my warranty in effect. I'd say the only way to do that is to perform the 5000 mile oil changes, regardless of the information gained from an oil analysis. Just a guess, but under a warranty claim situation, I don't think Lexus would really care if I were using full synthetic and high capacity long life filters, guaranteed by a manufacturer to be good for 10, 15, 20, or 25k miles. And I don't think they would care either, if I ran my oil change out to 10k miles but had an oil analysis that proved the oil was still within specifications. If I don't have documentation that I adhered to a 5000 mile schedule as it states in the manual, I think any engine failure repairs under warranty could be in jeopardy. Which is a chance I'm not ready to take. I don't think anyone can argue that full synthetic or blends are more effective than straight dino oil at reducing internal engine wear under extreme weather conditions. This is the reason I've chosen to use full synthetic.

I plan to keep my '07 for a lot of years. It may not be rational or cost effective, but I've made a decision to run full synthetic and change it every 5000 miles along with the filter. I might decide to extend the changes after my Platinum Warranty expires but that's many years out...

If you don't want to pay the high price charged by Lexus for this service, find a reputable garage that you can trust, explain your anal retentive nature to the owner, get it done at half the cost, and save the receipt.

Jim

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...If you don't want to pay the high price charged by Lexus for this service, find a reputable garage that you can trust, explain your anal retentive nature to the owner, get it done at half the cost, and save the receipt....

Jim

Hey! mrburnickass. That's how we say, getting "OWNED"!!! LFMAO!

Well said, JimsGX, BRAVO!

Cheers,

MadloR

P.S. it has nothing to do with understanding an analysis, but everything to do with good ol fashion common sense and logic.

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...If you don't want to pay the high price charged by Lexus for this service, find a reputable garage that you can trust, explain your anal retentive nature to the owner, get it done at half the cost, and save the receipt....

Jim

Hey! mrburnickass. That's how we say, getting "OWNED"!!! LFMAO!

Well said, JimsGX, BRAVO!

Cheers,

MadloR

P.S. it has nothing to do with understanding an analysis, but everything to do with good ol fashion common sense and logic.

That is the typical response of most Lexus people; more money then brains....That is owned dude. There is a diff between having them do a complex task vs. performing a simple 6-spark plugs, change yourself for $40 and in 15 minutes I might add via $299 from Lexus. <that is owned???, ya right>.

That is called owners, who CAN do it could do the work better, half the time and you did it yourself . But again people think Lexus service is special. I trust mom/pop shops more then Lexus; since they, lexus have high prices and no added value for the price. I can afford the service but I am smarter then that.

Ps. your good ol fashion common sense and logic are incorrect since you have no data to support anything. You are using a manual, based on recommend items as mandatory which is not the case.

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.... I'd say .....,.....Just a guess,.... I don't think ........... And I don't think.......,......I think... Which is a chance...... I don't think

Jim

My point yet again; see all your thinks...See, most postings of people saying zero info on facts....No data to support anything. I also have yet to see an engine fail using Redline, Amsoil etc. If the engines fails I know manufactures do what, pulling of UOA since they trust the customer zero.

Your clearly do not understand Amsoil's warrenty & UOA's. If you did, you would not have posted.

But ha, if that gives you a warm fuzzy, great. I will again let the data show (no thinking, guessing like most) what I should do and why...and saved time, $$$ etc.

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I have checked the Amsoil site and they are recommending 25000 miles between oil changes in normal usage. Up from 20000 miles.

if you want such extended recommedations you also typically need higher oil capacity, regular 5-7,500-mile quality filter change intervals, and hopefully a block warmer/extended highway miles.

nothing extends oil intervals like simply carrying more oil... which if you notice, is why medium+ duty engines, and extended drain kits use gigantic filters in the first place, some of them haivng a two-three quart capacity of their own.

I have a 1994 camry I have been running amsoil in since 1994. I change the oil every 20000 miles and a regular fram filter every 3000 miles. 140000 miles and the engine is as clean of sludge and coking as the day it was built. It works for me but all else is personal belief and experience. Just my opinion.

id go alittle longer on the filters, and change filter brands. fram sucks, horribly. every personal experiance, every mechanical experiance, and every test of everything they've ever made all says the same thing... fram sucks.

nissan went so far as to void all warranties with fram maintenance items, citing them as inferior products.

PICT0058.jpg

By the way, one of the supporting race shops in the corvette forum commented that while they have tried various synthetic oils in their race cars and found at least one that couldn't hold up, Mobil 1 has never given them a problem. Among the big names in synthetic oil, it is the most readily available and in most cases, the least expensive. Why spend more for other oils if extended drain intervals is your goal?

That being said, I should mention that I have used Amsoil universal ATF and their severe gear differential lube. They do make great stuff; it's just that when it comes to synthetic motor oil, Mobil 1 is a better choice, IMO.

race shops... is alittle off-subject even when talking about oils.

AFA royal purple. its too expencive for any justification in a non race only engine, halfway to poorly avalible, and generally not that good in street oil blends. that's just how it's always been with royal purple... when guy's drag only GNx is topping out a dyno at 1500-1600whp and he's running 0-5 race royal purple, well by god it must be good in a street engine running 10w-40.

racing doesn't apply that well with street oils, less you want to talk about long-term lubricating a CHRA. which doesn't apply to Lexus anyways. lol no turbo

now if you want a 0 weight racing oil in tight tolerance racing engine. then yes royal purple has been a good choice for longer than i know...

MBurnickas,

You may or not be correct about how Lexus will handle a marginal warranty claim on a vehicle that has not met the recommended oil change intervals in the manual. But for several other manufacturers you are dead wrong. I have first hand knowledge of employees, neighbors, acquaintances, etc., that have been denied expensive warranty claims because of lack of proof of oil change intervals.

Tom

if you have a warranty and you're worried about it, run what the warranty says.

MBurnickas,

You may or not be correct about how Lexus will handle a marginal warranty claim on a vehicle that has not met the recommended oil change intervals in the manual. But for several other manufacturers you are dead wrong. I have first hand knowledge of employees, neighbors, acquaintances, etc., that have been denied expensive warranty claims because of lack of proof of oil change intervals.

Tom

Incorrect since #1, it is "recommended oil change intervals". That is not in stone since I know what recommended means. Just like Lexus recommendes you used Lexus parts, lexus air in tires and you take your car in every 3,000 miles for like $200. It is a money maker period. They recommend everything and anything too.

#2 per you beloved Lexus, I need to perfom at least 1 oil change per year. Per my sludge letter. That superceeds the manual.

There is no real proof of perfoming an oil change unless you video take it. You can show slips etc till you are blue in the fact but prove that that oil was installed in that car, that filter etc. Do many ways around it.

#1 pretty much... your car's maintenance IMHO is based upon what happens with very, very low quality items primarily found in southeast asia (especially oil... Toyota's own oil policy has been shifting around their needs for quite some time)

#2 for review to those that dont know. Toyota's official "proof of a reasonable attempt of maintenance" was a single oil change reciept in the last 1 year, or 10,000 miles of operation.

This person is trying to turn this post into a p!ss!ing contest. Too bad he cannot resort to the same standards as the rest of us.

I have used Redline oil for many years, and did so in my 3SGTE engine. Then again, I was developing in excess of 400HP at the rear wheels from a 2 litre engine, and you can bet that putting any engine oil through 21psi of constant boost with overboosting at 24-27psi you made damn sure to find the best oil out there. Did I take an engine oil analysis, no. Didn't need to. Did I change my oil at "recommended" change intervals, no, car was no longer under powertrain warranty due to modifications. Did I change often, yes, sometimes every 6 to 8 weeks, depending on driving. Then again I used common sense.

I do not change my oil based on "pulling UOA", and for that matter 99% don't either. Why? Because it's not practical and nor is it time or cost efficient. Common sense dictates over factual procedures. I don't need an oil analysis to tell me whether at 5000k my oil is still protecting my engine or not.

I do not drive (nor my wife for that matter) my 400h like I do my M5 or my previous vehicles the same way. This vehicle requires to be reliable and trouble free for myself and more importantly for my wife. I understand quiet well what is going on inside a passenger engine and am as reasonable as the next person. If you use a manufacture rated conventional or superior motor oil, and change the oil at the factory recommended intervals you will easily satisfy all aspects... it's common sense. Also, I bet a majority of 400h owners present here on the board will not own there vehicles in 3-5 years, now I am not saying they won't care for there vehicles, but c'mon get real. Pulling UOA's? What for?

Cheers

MadloR

LoL that's because 3s-gte's leak it out so fast it's a short change interval! hahahahahahaha (sorry that's a common 3s-gte joke, they're very leaky... worse than the notriously leaky rear bank's of the v6's by a mile)

A UAO will tell you what state the oil is in. Guessing at your own interval is nothing more than a guess. using the arguement of "this has always worked" is fine, but it has no bearing on discussing "how long is the oil good for", or "what kind of oil gives the least wear on the engine".

...

#2, no one has posted anything to why they drain rather then what they "think". No supporting data. Poor reasons since no one has anything conrete on there oil being poor and needs drains.

#3, I trust BITOG site like salesman since they are. Look at there ADD forum. Can you say a joke. Some threads have no basis either, removed for no reason other then $$$$.

#5, I dislike Mobil based on my own personal findings, NOT someone elses. Case in point, people are shooting in the dark.

To close, this thread is full of all kinds of poor reasons. Post some UOA's to support your OWN finds. Until then, this is a typical oil thread of mis-info and poor logic. Maybe I should change my oil since someone in another forum, 2 years ago, said I should at some time. Sounds like everyone else here <unreal>

2, see reply i made above. don't talk alot of think when you want alot of fact.

3, i agree, BITOG is where everyone should be when they want to find a pleathera of data in the forum, but over the last few years it has become heavily biased in favor of who fronts the server bills. So... use BITOG with a grain of salt, and stick to a gathering place, or a storehouse of testing data.

5, personal opinion. the differance in his and several others in this thread is that atleast MK is basing a prefferance on a reason. he doesn't like the contents of mobil oil, fine.

...If you don't want to pay the high price charged by Lexus for this service, find a reputable garage that you can trust, explain your anal retentive nature to the owner, get it done at half the cost, and save the receipt....

Jim

Hey! mrburnickass. That's how we say, getting "OWNED"!!! LFMAO!

Well said, JimsGX, BRAVO!

Cheers,

MadloR

P.S. it has nothing to do with understanding an analysis, but everything to do with good ol fashion common sense and logic.

owned by what??? what does *BLEEP*ing in a marble lined bathroom, charging a 6x markup on generic Toyota products with toyota labling, and product numbers. and using mexican bulk dino mobil1 5w-30, 5w-20, and 0w-20 have anything to do with a discussion on the factual basis of synthetic VS dino?

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.... I'd say .....,.....Just a guess,.... I don't think ........... And I don't think.......,......I think... Which is a chance...... I don't think

Jim

My point yet again; see all your thinks...See, most postings of people saying zero info on facts....No data to support anything. I also have yet to see an engine fail using Redline, Amsoil etc. If the engines fails I know manufactures do what, pulling of UOA since they trust the customer zero.

Your clearly do not understand Amsoil's warrenty & UOA's. If you did, you would not have posted.

But ha, if that gives you a warm fuzzy, great. I will again let the data show (no thinking, guessing like most) what I should do and why...and saved time, $$$ etc.

Mburnickas,

You can only push peoples buttons here if they allow you to. I could write a book about your response above. The topic would have nothing to do with motor oil though.

If you can provide me with written documentation that Lexus will honor my warranty strictly by UOA, then I can forget about their recommended oil change interval of 5k miles and focus on UOA. Until you or someone else can come up with that proof, I'm stuck with 5k mile oil changes until my warranty expires.

I have no doubt that UOA holds merit and is a much better indicator of when my oil and filter need to be changed. But it doesn't matter to me. This is all about risk management for me. And the measurement I have to manage to is the recommendation by Lexus that I change my oil & filter every 5k miles.

Provide me with the proof above, and the UOA topic takes on a different level of importance for me.

Back in the mid to late 80's, Quaker State had a big quality control problem with their oil. It had excessive amounts of parafin and wax, which was the cause of premature engine failures. The claims took years to process once Quaker State decided to own up to responsibility for the problem.

I don't want to get in line on a class action lawsuit against an oil manufacturer when their oil causes my engine (and thousands of others) to fail. I want to have it towed to Lexus and have them fix my vehicle at no charge, since they were the one that pumped that junk into my crankcase. Granted, I haven't heard of these types of QC problems recently, but I have better things to do with my time than deal with these types of annoyances or to be messing around with UOA on my Lexus. Again, it comes down to risk management.

I'll take my chance with Lexus and their 5k mile oil change recommendation.

Oh and by the way, your comment about Lexus owners not even being willing to check the air in their tires tells me you have a skewed view of reality. In addition to that chip everyone here sees on your shoulder.

Jim

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