Front Strur Bar Bushings Cracked? Suspension Questions

[jaed2]

I recently had my 95 LS into the dealership for a 50K mile service where I found out I needed new rear carrier bushings, front lower ball joints and was also told that the bushings were cracked on my front strut bars. Car only has 51K miles, but is 12 years old so I assume the rubber has probably deteriorated because the ride is getting a little rough. I've decided to do the carrier bushings and the front lower ball joints myself, as they seem easy enough to replace with online tutorials (saving about $1000), but what/where are the bushings on the front strut bars? is there a bushing kit that anyone knows about or online tutorials so I might learn? Has this happened to anyone else and is there a good solution for it? I haven't seen any info on it but really don't want to shell out $650 when it seems that replacing bushings are easy enough. Any help would be appreciated!

Also, should i replace my upper control arms/ball joints if the lower ones need to be done? Not sure if these fail together or not or if I should just do it all together. dealer didn't mention them though.

[landar]

If you are a reasonably good DIY, you should be able to do the strut rods. I am planning on changing

mine out soon. The bushings are almost as much as new rods with bushings, so I am going to just order

the whole assembly and not mess with pressing the bushings out and back in. Cost per side is ~$100.

This search link may help you get started:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...=strut+bushings

[jaed2]

Great! thanks for the pointer. I think i had trouble finding things because I was searching strut bars when people seem to use the term strut rods. I have the repair manual, so I'll check that out. Are there any pictures/visuals anywhere of how to do this? I have the repair manuals. thanks again for the info!

[jaed2]

I just called a place to order parts and now i'm totally confused. I've attached a picture that I was using as a reference for what I was trying to order, and it didn't look exactly like i thought it would and it doesn't have a bushing in the pic. On the attached picture, #10, (what I thought was the strut rod, and I guess is), doesn't have a bushing attached to it in the picture, but i gather it goes into some sort of bushing? does the new part come with a bushing that isn't pictured? Landar, what part are you ordering and do you have the part number? Can you tell me what the number is on the attached description. Please help me, I know this shouldn't be that complicated! Thanks!

[landar]

I just called a place to order parts and now i'm totally confused. I've attached a picture that I was using as a reference for what I was trying to order, and it didn't look exactly like i thought it would and it doesn't have a bushing in the pic. On the attached picture, #10, (what I thought was the strut rod, and I guess is), doesn't have a bushing attached to it in the picture, but i gather it goes into some sort of bushing? does the new part come with a bushing that isn't pictured? Landar, what part are you ordering and do you have the part number? Can you tell me what the number is on the attached description. Please help me, I know this shouldn't be that complicated! Thanks!

jaed2, I was also initially confused by this. The 90-94 has a strut rod design that uses

rubber cushions on the end of the threaded rod. The 95-00, use a rod with a hole with rubber bushing.

The picture in the manuals is for the early model stut rods, hence the confusion. The manual illustration is wrong for your year.

Though I have not yet purchased them, I was going to get strut rods from LexusPartsOnline. Heres the link to the parts..(I hope it comes thru the editor)

The dealer can also get them for me but will have to order. They quoted $115 per side(rod only) and about $700 for the completed job.

The LexusPartsOnline picture also shows the wrong design because they just used the manual illustration, but I have been assured that it is correct when delivered.

http://www.lexuspartsonline.com/index2.htm...p;siteid=214281

[jaed2]

Ah, that makes a whole lot more sense. Thank you! I was looking at my 95 repair manual last night, and I think it shows the newer design, but now at work I can't remember....I guess it should. I saw this 1st gen illustration which then confused me.

Landar, When you say they quoted you "$115 per side (rod only)" Do you mean that it was $115 w/o labor but that it does include the actual bushing, not just the metal rod itself? I assume it comes with the bushing, and I believe that's what you are saying, but i just want to double check before ordering. Parkplace has them for $97/each with free shipping, but their illustration shows the old design, and the person I talked to didn't think there was a difference between gen 1 and 2, which now has me a little concerned. However, if they're going by part number then i should be OK. What do you think? Thanks again for that info, that was great.

jaed2, I was also initially confused by this. The 90-94 has a strut rod design that uses

rubber cushions on the end of the threaded rod. The 95-00, use a rod with a hole with rubber bushing.

The picture in the manuals is for the early model stut rods, hence the confusion. The manual illustration is wrong for your year.

Though I have not yet purchased them, I was going to get strut rods from LexusPartsOnline. Heres the link to the parts..(I hope it comes thru the editor)

The dealer can also get them for me but will have to order. They quoted $115 per side(rod only) and about $700 for the completed job.

The LexusPartsOnline picture also shows the wrong design because they just used the manual illustration, but I have been assured that it is correct when delivered.

http://www.lexuspartsonline.com/index2.htm...p;siteid=214281

[landar]

ok, you inspired me to order the strut rods. But as I was placing an order at LexusPartsOnline.com, I thought I would

call the local dealer one more time to verify the price. To my surprise, they now had the strut rods for my '98 in stock

for $117 each. So, I decided to just buy off of the dealer and be done with it. The $20 difference is in the 'noise' for me.

Anyway, when I went to pick up the parts, I struck up a conversation with the parts manager and just happened to mention to him that

I had been thinking of ordering the strut rods on LexusPartsOnline. He asked me their price and I told him $95. What happened next

pleasantly shocked me. He sold me the rods for $95 each. Appearantly they have room to move. I also picked up a 10 pack of Toyota

oil filters for $50 and he threw in a package of oil plug gaskets. I am a happy camper.

The strut rod part numbers are 48670-40011(LH) and 48660-40021(RH). They come complete with bushings and 2 pressed-in bolts.

I plan on installing these puppies this weekend if the weather is permitting(supposed to be nice in N. Indiana) and I will take lots of digital

pics for you. Actually my teenage son is my camera man.

BTW, I am replacing my strut rods because I have a pretty sharp 'clunk' when going over bumps at low speed. I have already looked at the

strut rod bushings and verified that they are all cracked. I am hoping this will take care of the clunk but it may be something else. Hey, it 'only'

costs me $200 and a day of labor to find out. What a bargain!

[jaed2]

That's amazing. I can't believe the dealership "flinched". I too just ordered those same strut rods from park place. I spoke with someone else and he gave me the correct part numbers (same ones that you have posted below) and he seemed to recognize a difference between the cushion system of Gen I's vs. the bushing system of Gen II's. So I took the plunge. My dealer in Phila. wanted about $150 each, plus i would have had to have picked them up AND payed the taxes (another $20). Park place was $97.50 each, free shipping to my door and no tax! I suppose if the dealership trimmed $50 off their price each I would have gone for that, but I can't imagine they would take that $100 loss.

I'm going to post the strut rod pictures here from my 95 UCF II manual and compare it to the UCF I's strut rod pictures so that people can see the difference. Hopefully this will help people who are also trying to do this repair but can only find the UCF I pictures online. Landar, Your pictures would be an amazing help and when I do it, i'll try and take some too. I really appreciate the info you've given me. Maybe the weekend after this one I'll be installing mine....unless the weather here really starts to get cold. Let me know how it goes!

[landar]

jaed2,

Sounds like you are on the right track. No tax? Better check your state form. Cant believe the good ol' Commonwealth of

PA does not want their tax! :whistles:

Hey, wonder if the state inspection would catch worn strut rod bushings?! :chairshot:

I made the following posting back in April but didnt get any tutorials. I think now is the time to put a good strut rod replacement

tutorial in place for the 95-00 models.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry249166

[jaed2]

Since the dealership is out of the state, I don't think they can collect tax, but maybe PA will come to collect...

When I had my car in last to the dealership they implied that I would probably have to have at least some of the work come inspection time. Not sure if it was ball joints, carrier bushings or strut rod bushings that would have failed me, or if this was just scare tactics, but I don't want to find out! So the strut arm might have failed you. not sure though.

I did read that earlier post you put up before I started this one and wondered if a tutorial had made it up somewhere. When I didn't find it, I decided to post. I think now would be a great time to post a tutorial for others. let's do it!

[landar]

Here's a pic of the new ones....

[landar]

Well, I 'done' it! Replaced the strut rods on my '98. The dreaded 'clunk' is now gone. Took lots of pics along the way so that I could put together

a good picture tutorial. It really isn't too bad of a job. You might need copious amounts of beer however, depending on

your disposition.

I am going to try and figure out how to put together a tutorial and also where it should reside. The Lexus 'workshop/knowledge base'

seems to be a UK based site and I dont see any pictures. Am I missing the obvious? (wouldn't be the first time )

[dashan]

Landar,

We are eagerly waiting for the tutor with pics.

Well, I 'done' it! Replaced the strut rods on my '98. The dreaded 'clunk' is now gone. Took lots of pics along the way so that I could put together

a good picture tutorial. It really isn't too bad of a job. You might need copious amounts of beer however, depending on

your disposition.

I am going to try and figure out how to put together a tutorial and also where it should reside. The Lexus 'workshop/knowledge base'

seems to be a UK based site and I dont see any pictures. Am I missing the obvious? (wouldn't be the first time )

[new2mud]

Here's a pic of the new ones....

Landar--did you have to break loose the upper control arm ball joint to free the UCA from the rest, or did you leave that in place?

A list of major components you "disassembled" would be great!

[landar]

Here's a pic of the new ones....

Landar--did you have to break loose the upper control arm ball joint to free the UCA from the rest, or did you leave that in place?

A list of major components you "disassembled" would be great!

No, I did not. I went for minimal removal of components. The job is really pretty easy. The biggest deal, as you might have imagined,

is breaking free the rusty nuts and bolts. I put Liquid Wrench on all the bolt threads that I planned to remove and let it soak for 15 minutes(longer

would be better..like overnight if possible). Here are the basic steps I took:

1) Take out the lower bolt holding the shock in place.

2) Take out the 2 bolts holding the shock bracket in place. One is a thru-hole bolt, the other is a short bolt which screws into the lower arm.

3) There is a small 'snubber' rod and the top nut needs to be removed. From there the whole lower ball joint assembly is free to move. Dont worry nothing will fall or fly apart.

4) Now you can take the two nuts off the bottom of the strut rod.

5) Before you remove the large nut from the forward end of the strut rod, take a sharpie pen (or similar) and mark both the inside and outside cam adjustment washers. You will see that these washers have indents stamped in them. Mark both sides and on the right and left.

This will aid in reassembly and keep you from the alignment shop (hopefully).

6) Remove the large nut(22mm) from the front of the strut rod.

7) Using a hammer or mallet, tap (ok, beat!) the bottom of the strut rod to get the rear end of it (two studs) to pop out of the lower bracket.

Time for reassembly. It is basically the reverse. However, I found it useful to:

1) Install the front end of the new strut rod with the cam washers. Hand snug the nut and align the cam markings first. (dont tighten hard or it will be difficult to align the rear bolts)

2) Then pull the back of the rod into place and attempt to align the two stud holes. Bet it doesnt just pop in! Gotta live a cleaner life.

3) I tried putting a second car jack under the assembly to jack the studs into place but didnt do so well. However, the rotor and calipers are fairly light and you can easily lift them. I just grabbed the brake rotor and pulled up on it several times...ok, maybe I even "banged" it into the end of the shock... but the studs went right into the lower bracket. Install nuts to studs.

4) Now you are home free. Recheck the cam alignment and readjust if necessary. Mine was pretty close but not perfectly aligned as before and it drove just fine.

5) Reinstall bracket bolts, shock bolt and snubber nut.

5) Recheck and tighten down all remaining bolts.

This job took me about 2.5 hours on the first side, then 1.5 hour on the remaining. It all depends on how stubborn those bolts will be.

Oh, almost forgot. Get a BIG breaker bar. I used a 3 foot pipe on the end of my wrench handle. You might have to jack the car up pretty high to get enuff room at times. Dont forget to use jack stands for safety(one on each side). NEVER get under the car with a single jack alone! (sorry for preaching...just dont want to see anyone in danger. It scares me when I am under the car).

Anyway, the only socket sizes I needed were 17, 19 and 22 mm.

Attached is a picture of the shock bracket loosened and rear strut studs popped up.

Hope this helps.

Lan

[landar]

Some more pics for completion.

I edited the pics with text.

[new2mud]

Some more pics for completion.

I edited the pics with text.

Excellent pictures and great descriptions--in these cases, pictures are truly worth thousands of words!

[landar]

Some more pics for completion.

I edited the pics with text.

Excellent pictures and great descriptions--in these cases, pictures are truly worth thousands of words!

Thanks, mud. I kinda butchered the tutorial and doubled several pics. (Site admin to the rescue?)

Also left out the removal of the lower shock bracket bolt, but attached here.

[landar]

I created a "Photo show" of the strut rod removal....kinda corny but I had fun!

Turn up your sound and you can whistle while enjoying the show.

Check it out:

http://photoshow.comcast.net/watch/Fj9WH6CM

[new2mud]

I created a "Photo show" of the strut rod removal....kinda corny but I had fun!

Turn up your sound and you can whistle while enjoying the show.

Check it out:

http://photoshow.comcast.net/watch/Fj9WH6CM

Now THAT's what I call a tutorial! Thanks again for documenting this for the community.

[dashan]

Landar,

It's very nice.

[jaed2]

Hey Landar,

Thanks again for all the great help and guidance. Just wanted people to know that I did the rear carrier arm bushings, front strut rods and lower ball joints over the past 2 weekends and it was really not very difficult in my opinion. It definitely takes some time and a bit of muscle (I was totally sore the whole weekend but I'm out of shape) but it is worth it. 2 weekends ago i changed the carrier arm bushings and this past weekend I changed the strut rods as well as the lower ball joints. LBJs were very easy and although the strut rods weren't particularly difficult, the operation did require some finessing. One thing that I found difficult on the first side was securing the strut rod's 2 bolts into the carrier arm. This was tricky because normally the strut rod is twisted so that the two bolts align with the holes in the carrier arm. However, when it is bolted through only the bushing into the frame and not into the carrier arm, it is not twisted and is thus relaxed. When it is relaxed the bolts don't line up with the holes. If you take a wrench (21mm, 22mm, 20mm, doesn't really matter too much) and place the box end on the arm, you can actually twist it so that the bolts line up with the holes and you simulate the "unrelaxed" position that the strut rod normally is in. This allows the bolts to line up with the carrier arm holes. On the first side where i didn't use this trick I banged the bolts in, but when i tried this with the wrench on the second side the bolts basically just slide into the carrier arm with a light tap.

The other word of advice that I have is to make sure everything is tight! On my first test drive after doing the front end i started to hear a clanging and couldn't figure out what it was. I figured it was the new strut rod, but i couldn't figure out why this was happening as I thought I torqued everything correctly with the torque wrench. When i bounced on the fender, you could hear it and when i drove the car you heard it all the time on the tiniest bumps. I finally realized that i had not properly tightened the bolt for the little snubber rod enough. It's tricky having to use the allen key and the wrench at the same time (you'll see what i mean if you haven't done this yet.) Anyway, after I realized that this was the problem, i tightened it up and the car drove GREAT!

I've heard a lot of people in this forum complain about some shaking in the fronts of their car at about 60-70mph. I had that problem ever since I bought the car. Sometimes it would be there and sometimes it wouldn't. Wheel balancing seemed to help a little, but it always came back. It wasn't terrible, but moderately annoying. It was also random. Although I'm not sure if it was related to the rear carrier arm bushings, front strut rods or front ball joints (most likely candidate) I will say that it is now gone and the car is TOTALLY smooth. No bone shattering clunks over potholes...Like driving 2 different cars.

Overall this cost me $400 in parts and maybe 7 hours in time. Out the door of the Lexus dealer (w/tax etc.) these jobs were quoted as costing over $1800. That staggering figure is what led me to decide to do this myself and i truly appreciated all the help from everyone on this forum (especially Landar and Jzz30). I am somewhat (ok, very) embarrassed to say that this is the first work I've done on my car. EVER. I have always taken my cars to the dealership and have had the notion that the only people who can do this work is the dealership that knows the car. I will say that I do have a "mechanical mind" and a good tool selection, but I would encourage others who doubt themselves (like me) to try doing these jobs themselves. Saving $1400 over dealer cost for 7 hours of work = $200/hr. I don't make that much or even close to it, so it's worth it for me to do this, and you might find that it is for you too. I hope that my admission of embarrassment will give others the courage to give it a shot and be pleasantly surprised!

Remember also that some of these tools you can borrow from your local auto store for FREE (pepboys, autozone, advance AP, etc). I have still never changed my own oil, but now I have changed my strut rods, ball joints and rear carrier arm bushings. I saved over $1400 by switching to DIY!

Thanks again to all who helped and if others have questions that i can field about these jobs, send me a message, I'm happy to help!

-jaed2

[landar]

Thats a great suggestion to twist the rod with a wrench on the flat part, jaed2. Wish I had thought of it!

You have absolutely nothing to be embarrased about. For someone who has never done any auto work, you sure

jumped in with both feet. I am proud of you. Good show. And you offer encouragement to those who might be on the fence about doing

their own work.

I actually enjoy working on my Lex. Its very therapeutic and comforting knowing I can do the work myself, especially with a great forum like this one

to help out. "I spit on the dealer....poooey" (ok, where's that wood to knock on.....;-)

What you gonna do for an encore? Rebuild the tranny? <_< Mucho congrats to you, jaed2! Salute

[dashan]

The rod rotated with the nut when I tried to remove the the 17 mm nut of the "snubber" arm and the nut simply didn't come out.

How can I do to get the nut out?

Thanks.

[dashan]

I also replaced the strut rods in my 96 LS4 today. The information provided by Landar and jaed2 is very useful, thank you very much.

I got one new tip to add on how to do the replacement.

Actually, you don't need to remove the 17 mm nut that is in the place that connects the stabilizer linker and stabilizer bar. I was not able to loose this nut since it was too rusty so I just leave it alone, and did the replacement of the strut rod.