08 Rx Low Beams

[triplecore]

I wouldn't recommend doing what LexKid did unless you are an accomplished mechanic.

There is a picture of the adjusting lever in the last post of page 1 of this thread. Loosen the nuts on each end of the center shaft. Then turn the center shaft with the center welded nut to make the thread area shorter (one thread is left handed). Tighten up the two end nuts and you are done.

My center shaft was adjusted about an inch shorter to make the correct headlight alignment. Be sure to check the alignment pre and post adjustment on a wall with tape at the top of the line of light. If drivers flash their lights at you at night then there is a problem and the shaft should be made longer.

The nuts are metric. The end nuts are 11 mm and the middle one is 10 mm if I remember correctly. Adjustable small wrenches would work also. A vice-grip could be used on the center nut if it is hard to turn or won't hold still while you loosen the two end nuts. Soaking the nuts and threads with WD-40 or some other penetrating lubricant first will help.

I didn't find the work space "tiny" at all so I hope we are talking about the same thing. Asking if a lift is needed but stating that you already tried to adjust the lever makes me suspicious that some communication is lacking.

No lift is needed depending on your size. Driving the passenger side rear wheel up on a 2x6 piece of wood will give a bit more room. Driving it up onto a curb will give lots of room for the adjustment.

A floor jack or even the Lexus jack is nice because the wheel droops down and the adjusting lever is somewhat more accessible. Be sure to use jack stands if you use this method.

Thanks for the quick reply. So I take the two 10mm wrenches and turn them together in the opposite direction to loosen them.

Then turn the center nut. Should I turn it to the left or right? Do I want it to move the center washer so it ends up being higher or lower when compared to its original position.

Last question do I need tape?

ps. I was asking about the jack, because when I got under the craw I hand like no room; so I wasn't sure if this job needed it to be lifted.

Thanks

[GDixon]

The top nut and thread are the usual right hand type. The bottom nut and thread are left-handed thread. Hold the middle nut in place that is welded to the shaft (hold with a wrench or vice-grips) and then loosen the top and bottom nut - remember the bottom nut is left-handed thread so will loosen the "wrong" way. Back both top and bottom nuts off at least 1/2 inch.

Then use the middle nut to screw the top shaft into the top receptacle thus shortening it. That would be clockwise if looking from the nut and along the shaft. Since the bottom thread is left handed it will shorten the bottom as the top thread shortens. Tighten the two nuts and that is it.

Measure the distance between the end nuts before you start and write it down. Then measure the distance after the adjustment. The measured distance between the nuts should be about 1 inch less. In other words, the nuts are closer by 1 inch.

Look at the picture again at the bottom of the first page of this discussion. (Click on it to make it larger.) You can see the threads and the direction they need to travel to shorten the shaft. Also the direction the end nuts need to turn to travel toward the center of the shaft and thus be loosened. The nuts on each end are only there to lock in the adjustment after you are finished !Removed! in the shaft to make it shorter.

No tape is needed. LexKid used it because he took off the whole assembly and just taped the adjusting arm to the frame in the position that he wanted. Don't use that technique.

[triplecore]

The top nut and thread are the usual right hand type. The bottom nut and thread are left-handed thread. Hold the middle nut in place that is welded to the shaft (hold with a wrench or vice-grips) and then loosen the top and bottom nut - remember the bottom nut is left-handed thread so will loosen the "wrong" way. Back both top and bottom nuts off at least 1/2 inch.

Then use the middle nut to screw the top shaft into the top receptacle thus shortening it. That would be clockwise if looking from the nut and along the shaft. Since the bottom thread is left handed it will shorten the bottom as the top thread shortens. Tighten the two nuts and that is it.

Measure the distance between the end nuts before you start and write it down. Then measure the distance after the adjustment. The measured distance between the nuts should be about 1 inch less. In other words, the nuts are closer by 1 inch.

Look at the picture again at the bottom of the first page of this discussion. (Click on it to make it larger.) You can see the threads and the direction they need to travel to shorten the shaft. Also the direction the end nuts need to turn to travel toward the center of the shaft and thus be loosened. The nuts on each end are only there to lock in the adjustment after you are finished !Removed! in the shaft to make it shorter.

No tape is needed. LexKid used it because he took off the whole assembly and just taped the adjusting arm to the frame in the position that he wanted. Don't use that technique.

thanks I will give it try sometime this week. Thanks alot really