heyoceanfloor Posted September 25, 2007 Posted September 25, 2007 So I just ordered this JoeZ intake pipe: http://store.my.is/store/customer/product....;cat=&page= and a Blitz drop in filter that I'll keep clean. Is there much of a performance difference between this setup and the SRT intake? I dunno if I can afford the SRT just yet, and this seems like a decent setup. I hear a lot of people like it.
smooth1 Posted September 25, 2007 Posted September 25, 2007 The SRT is essentially the same intake as the rest. The reason it costs more and produces more hp is because of the piggyback ECU chip it comes with. If the intake is all your gonna put on, then it's a great choice. But your looking to do more than that, the better option and set up is to put on an intake, then a header and exhaust or what ever your looking to do. Once you have it together, get a programmable and have it tuned for max hp. That's the ideal way to go. So the Joe Z in my opinion is a better choice for the the long run.
bartkat Posted September 25, 2007 Posted September 25, 2007 The JoeZ setup is the best bang for the buck.
heyoceanfloor Posted September 26, 2007 Author Posted September 26, 2007 awesome, thanks guys! i'll put up a picture when it comes in!
Parking17 Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Heyoceanfloor, After you install and drive around for a week, I would like to know if you have the same pick-up/horsepower under 3000rpm as before you did the mod. Just curious. I had an intake and took it off because I lost hp on accelleration under 3000rpm, like taking off from a light. Your findings are appreciated.
bartkat Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Heyoceanfloor,After you install and drive around for a week, I would like to know if you have the same pick-up/horsepower under 3000rpm as before you did the mod. Just curious. I had an intake and took it off because I lost hp on accelleration under 3000rpm, like taking off from a light. Your findings are appreciated. I had the JoeZ with a Blitz filter on both IS300 and IS350 and never saw any problems. It uses the stock airbox and air inlet so it doesn't mess things up like short ram intakes with big cone filters that get their air from inside the engine compartment.
heyoceanfloor Posted September 28, 2007 Author Posted September 28, 2007 yeah i was thinking along the same lines as bartkat, and fear of your problem was part of the reason i stuck with the stock airbox (cash too), but i'll let you know once i get it anyway :) if you had issues with the short ram under 3000rpm, that could be because you weren't up to a high enough speed to actually get cool air through it, right? maybe it was just sucking some of the hot engine air through first, killing the pickup a little.
smooth1 Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Actually, for you, a cai might be really good as your at a much higher elevation. So the air has alot less oxygen in it. I'm sure your car is set for the higher altitude, but getting more air to the motor will be more beneficial than say someone in Florida and lives at o elavation. let me clarify something here though. A car at 0 elevation will produce more hp than a car at higher elevations. So a car at higher elevations will "feel" more of a pep from the CAI than the car at 0 elavation. Also, Flop just put a K&N Typhoon CAI on his car and he loves it. He says that the shifts are much more positive, and he doesn't feel any difference down low, only sounds much nicer too. Maybe some of the CAI are different from each other somehow.
flop170 Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 ^^^^it's true!!! i love it! makes me smile everytime i hear the noise it makes.... lol...
jondao08 Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 Does anyone know...In terms of HP, what brands would produce best intake, headers, and exhaust combo assuming that money is not an issue? How much would it cost and what would be the predicted HP gains? Thanks.
smooth1 Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 That's a really tall order question as there are so many different combinations. Not to mention the fact that the exact same set up will produce different results on different cars, even of the same model and year. But to answer your question on a more general term, intake, header and exhaust will gain you anywhere from about 15 hp to 30 hp. You will need to have the ECU retuned to maximize the effects and get it to to work together, and so you may get a few more there.
jondao08 Posted October 3, 2007 Posted October 3, 2007 So about a 40 HP gain would be where bolt on mods would max out?
smooth1 Posted October 3, 2007 Posted October 3, 2007 So about a 40 HP gain would be where bolt on mods would max out? Optomistically,Yeah, that's about right.
heyoceanfloor Posted October 8, 2007 Author Posted October 8, 2007 So the stuff came in the mail, and I didn't notice much of a power gain at first... but after the ECU got a chance to re-learn how I drive, I definitely notice more of a punch between 3k and 6k rpm! I like it a lot, great bang for the buck upgrade. Definitely reccomended. I've been running it on ECT power for a few days to get the engine used to more air. I'm at work now, and on my way here I noticed that the passenger side window is acting up a little bit.. It'll roll DOWN from the driver's side, but not back UP. Rolling it back up only works from the passenger door. I unplugged the battery while installing my joez pipe and blitz filter, could that have anything to do with it? I also tried rolling it down pushing down on both passenger and driver buttons, and rolling it back up the same way.. but with no luck. Any advice? I'll post up pictures of the intake stuff when I get home from work :)
heyoceanfloor Posted October 9, 2007 Author Posted October 9, 2007 I'll post up pictures of the intake stuff when I get home from work :) I'm still having the window problem if anybody can help :(
bartkat Posted October 9, 2007 Posted October 9, 2007 I think you have to run each window all the way down and back up again on all the doors and that should reset so the driver's button will operate them all. Also I think there's a lockout button near the drivers door switch that has to be in the off position.
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