Ball Joints

[Guest]

Dealer said my lower ball joints need to be replaced but I am not sure of the warning signs since I do not hear clunking, grinding or squeaking. I do sense a little "looseness" in the front end and a very slight vibration that could be anything! Since it is a $500 repair I want to know what I should be looking for. Also, for a not-so-good mechanic, is this a job to tackle on your own with the puller available from the parts stores?

I think I have seen a tutorial on this but cannot locate it now. Please add the link in reply if you can. Thanks, I really appreciate all the advice here!

[pishta]

Dealer said my lower ball joints need to be replaced but I am not sure of the warning signs since I do not hear clunking, grinding or squeaking. I do sense a little "looseness" in the front end and a very slight vibration that could be anything! Since it is a $500 repair I want to know what I should be looking for. Also, for a not-so-good mechanic, is this a job to tackle on your own with the puller available from the parts stores?

I think I have seen a tutorial on this but cannot locate it now. Please add the link in reply if you can. Thanks, I really appreciate all the advice here!

Here is my Ball joints for idiots tutorial, just open the album in sequence and read the comments. It is based on a 92 but im sure they are not that much different, it is literally 6 bolts after the tire is off. tutorial

[VBdenny]

Hey, pretty good ball joint instructions. Doesn't seem like the same pain-in-the-butt as American cars where you have to press them out. One question, were the parts you got off ebay authetic Toyota parts or aftermarket?

[wwest]

Dealer said my lower ball joints need to be replaced but I am not sure of the warning signs since I do not hear clunking, grinding or squeaking. I do sense a little "looseness" in the front end and a very slight vibration that could be anything! Since it is a $500 repair I want to know what I should be looking for. Also, for a not-so-good mechanic, is this a job to tackle on your own with the puller available from the parts stores?

I think I have seen a tutorial on this but cannot locate it now. Please add the link in reply if you can. Thanks, I really appreciate all the advice here!

Simple, just take it to GoodYear or FireStone, like your dealer, they'll know when your ball joints need replacing.

Okay, your ball joints may actually need to be replaced.

But replacing ball "faulty" joints has long been a favorite ploy of automotive service shops. There is no way, method, feeling, absent the wheels finally falling off, for the owner to know when the ball joints are too worn. Additionally these service shops are well, VERY well, aware of the concern they can cause by stating that ANY part of the car's stearing control is failing.

Not a good answer but the only good answer is to go to a shop that doesn't need or want your money.

Introduce yourself to that shop's service manager tomorrow morning as you wash your face and comb your hair.

[pishta]

Hey, pretty good ball joint instructions. Doesn't seem like the same pain-in-the-butt as American cars where you have to press them out. One question, were the parts you got off ebay authetic Toyota parts or aftermarket?

They were "OEM" brand as in "made by OEM" , NOT Toyota, check the box out. Only difference I saw was that the 17mm bolt mating surfaces were faced (machined or ground flat) on the original ball joint and the aftermarket unit were just cast flat.

[pishta]

But replacing ball "faulty" joints has long been a favorite ploy of automotive service shops. There is no way, method, feeling, absent the wheels finally falling off, for the owner to know when the ball joints are too worn....

Uh, yes there is. Raise the front tire and attempt to push and pull the top and bottom of the tire. If there is any movement, get a helper to look behind the tire or use a free hand and feel where the play is. It is either the upper control arm ball joint, UCA bushings or lower control arm bushing or lower ball joint. It is a matter of seeing how much is moving. If nothing is moving back there you may have a bad wheel bearing. If there is side to side, it can be tie rods. bottom line is that there should be hardly any movement on a raised tire, maybe some slight bushing flex, but there should be no sharp clunks or metal on metal feel.

[new2mud]

Although the data is inconclusive, I believe most of the lower clunking over bumps/potholes appears to be mostly attribute to lower ball joint, with it typically failing before the UCA components.

BTW, lower ball joint is only ~$60 each and about 45 mins for the first time if you've never done it, and probably half that time for the other half.

Only need to replace the one that is clunking, though--is it coming front Driver's front or Passenger's front side?

[falciott]

Hey, pretty good ball joint instructions. Doesn't seem like the same pain-in-the-butt as American cars where you have to press them out. One question, were the parts you got off ebay authetic Toyota parts or aftermarket?

They were "OEM" brand as in "made by OEM" , NOT Toyota, check the box out. Only difference I saw was that the 17mm bolt mating surfaces were faced (machined or ground flat) on the original ball joint and the aftermarket unit were just cast flat.

As far as I remember, defective ball joints will make a clunking sound during very tight turns, and i have changed a few of those bad boys! Go in an empty parking lot, turn your wheels all the way to the left,if there is a clunk,then chances are,that your right ball joint needs to be replaced,and viceversa. Also check if the rubber boot is broken, if it is,then chances are,that the ball joint is broken as well.

Wait! Let me get this straight....your ball joints were made by "OEM" brand? Uhmm :whistles:

[pishta]

Hey, pretty good ball joint instructions. Doesn't seem like the same pain-in-the-butt as American cars where you have to press them out. One question, were the parts you got off ebay authetic Toyota parts or aftermarket?

They were "OEM" brand as in "made by OEM" , NOT Toyota, check the box out. Only difference I saw was that the 17mm bolt mating surfaces were faced (machined or ground flat) on the original ball joint and the aftermarket unit were just cast flat.

As far as I remember, defective ball joints will make a clunking sound during very tight turns, and i have changed a few of those bad boys! Go in an empty parking lot, turn your wheels all the way to the left,if there is a clunk,then chances are,that your right ball joint needs to be replaced,and viceversa. Also check if the rubber boot is broken, if it is,then chances are,that the ball joint is broken as well.

Wait! Let me get this straight....your ball joints were made by "OEM" brand? Uhmm :whistles:

WEll, OE might be more correct, but they were not original equipment manufactured

[landar]

Wow, nice tut, pishta! Thanks for all the effort in putting this together and for sharing!!!

Ever consider putting this on the Lexus LS Workshop/Knowledge base site?