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Intake Advice...injen


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Sorry but I wouldn't get the Injen intake, it's pretty much a waste of money-and I'm not the only one who will tell you that.

I think you should reconsider building an intake. Your best bet would be to build a BFI (planetsoarer.com) you'll probably get the best results w/ hp and torque with the BFI. But something that might concern you is that it doesn't look to sporty-it doesn't really stand out or anything.

If you want sporty and some pretty decent hp gains and added torque, try this it's not too hard. . .

Buy an open filter (K&N, Reactive, etc.) and replace your stock airbox with it. (Just doing that gives you the same look and effect that the Injen intake does except it's about $200 less than the Injen intake). You can stop there if you just want the intake effect-you'll get about a 5 hp gain from this, but if you're wanting a cold air intake then all you need to do is buy some hose about 1 ft. 1/2 long (about 3 in. in diameter) and attache it to your filter then run it down in front of your grill. This will force cold air into your engine. You should get around 10 hp from this, maybe even 15 on a cold day in the winter. The best part is it only cost me $56 and about an hour or so of my time.

Hope that helps, good luck

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Yeah but he said he didn't want to build anything. Not only that but look professional. The Injen intake will give you sound and maybe and I read it gives more oomph on the sc300 than the sc400. It is probably true that you get the most bang for the buck with the BFI. The BFI took me about 3-4 hours of hard labor. If I build it again it should take me about 1-2 hours. It cost me $10 dollars but I bought a $20 dollar water heater blanket and used about 1/30th of it.

But beware, the Injen intake isn't a cold air intake (unless on a cold winter night or if a tree snatched off your hood). A good analogy to that is turbo-ing at 0.01 psi without an intercooler.

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OneHotLexus: Your best bet would be to build a BFI...If you want sporty and some pretty decent hp gains and added torque, try this it's not too hard. . .

Buy an open filter (K&N, Reactive, etc.) and replace your stock airbox with it...but if you're wanting a cold air intake then all you need to do is buy some hose about 1 ft. 1/2 long (about 3 in. in diameter) and attache it to your filter then run it down in front of your grill

OneHotLexus,

On Planetsoarer.com that is the BFD (big fluttering duct). The BFI (big fluttering intake) used the center of the bumper as the 1st of two intake chambers.

Just remember that if you use the hose, the end of the hose that points to the cone intake should not point directly at it (perpendicular to filter element). By doing so you would have turbulence within the cone and that's bad. If you point it parallel with the filter element, there could be a possibility of lower pressure from the high air speed and actually decrease air intake through the cone. What I would do is take the hose and direct it against the frame near the ignition coil (basically metal wall of the wheel well). Then again I'm not an aerospace engineer... yet... so you don't have to believe me. :geek:

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injen makes bleep

don't waste your money one anything they sell

or anything that is not cold air

like a so called ram air pipe

Give Me A F ing Break

there is no air being rammed into this thing

the only ram airs are by GM firebird ,camaro, and some done up j bodies

the only air being rammed up anywhere, is being up yours

to belive there crap

:blink:

basically any short arm will produce lower #'s than any stock box

even on a dyno

since no one ever runs a dyno with a hot car or with a hood closed

so the true "losses " are never even shown

:geek:

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C'mon don't get irritated at me, I wasn't directing it toward you, I agree with you about the modified stock airbox- it probably is the best way to go, I was just stating another option that would do well.

I was talking to bubbles. Bubbles, your right about pointing the hose directly toward the intake, nope it isn't good. I agree with you in that pointing the hose toward the frame at the IC is the best option.

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