Starter Problems?

[AustinGT]

Well, looks like the LS is having another issue :cries: The other day when I started it ,the battery seemed low as the starter was chugging along slower than normal- usually it fires quickly unless it is really cold outside. I figured the battery was low so I had it checked, and they said it was weak but should still be okay. Later that evening I put a charger on it and the battery was totally shot and wouldn't hold a charge (it is barely three years old). I purchased a new Duralast battery that was ranked highly by Consumer Reports, but when I installed it today and fired the LS up right away, it still seemed like the battery was low as the starter still wasn't firing as rapidly as usual (I should mention it has been in a warm garage). The mechanic said my alternator is good (it's only a year old), but I am worried it could be the starter, although I never hear the dreaded "click" then nothing. If anyone has insight, I would greatly appreciate it. I will be studying abroad this summer and would rather spend my money in Europe than on a new starter!!!

[landar]

Well, looks like the LS is having another issue :cries: The other day when I started it ,the battery seemed low as the starter was chugging along slower than normal- usually it fires quickly unless it is really cold outside. I figured the battery was low so I had it checked, and they said it was weak but should still be okay. Later that evening I put a charger on it and the battery was totally shot and wouldn't hold a charge (it is barely three years old). I purchased a new Duralast battery that was ranked highly by Consumer Reports, but when I installed it today and fired the LS up right away, it still seemed like the battery was low as the starter still wasn't firing as rapidly as usual (I should mention it has been in a warm garage). The mechanic said my alternator is good (it's only a year old), but I am worried it could be the starter, although I never hear the dreaded "click" then nothing. If anyone has insight, I would greatly appreciate it. I will be studying abroad this summer and would rather spend my money in Europe than on a new starter!!!

Ausin, the good news is that starter related problems should be fairly easy to isolate if you are methodical as you go about analyzing the situation. All of the clues are there, you just need to be a good Sherlock <_<

First, a quick review or tutorial, depending on your background. A starter pulls in excess of 100 amps when turning over the engine. 100+ amps is a LOT of current. ANY bad or semi-bad connection between the battery and starter(including ground connections) can spoil the whole circuit and make your starter seem sluggish. So, if you are interested, and have access to a voltmeter, here are some simpler tests you can perform.

First, without the engine running, check the voltage at the battery posts and then at the cable terminals. They should be nearly identical (12 volts approx.). Then switch on the headlights and check the voltages again. A difference of more that a couple tenths of a volt would probably mean a poor connection at the battery terminal(s). You see, the headlights pull some current(probably a few amps) but not nearly what the starter does. Still, it can be a valuable indication of a bad connection which becomes exacerbated when the starter is engaged.

Starter circuits also need a relay to handle the large current loads because the ignition switch which you turn to engage the starter cannot handle the 100+ amps. It can energize a coil which pulls in the starter relay with larger contacts. These relay contacts get corroded over time and can begin restricting the flow of current making your starter seem sluggish. The relay is usually an integral part of the starter and may be possible to rebuild without buying a new starter if that ends up being the problem. BTW, the "dreaded click" usually indicates corroded/worn out relay contacts. What you are hearing is the relay being pulled in once when you turn the key but since it fails to make good contact, nothing more happens. The other sound more often heard is the rat-tat-tat clicking which indicates a weak battery or bad connection somewhere. The rat-tat-tat continues on as a sort of oscillation because as the relay engages, the starter begins to pull its large current. The large current causes the voltage to fall rapidly, which "starves" the relay and it falls back open. Which allow the voltage to return to normal and engage the relay/starter again....its a vicious cycle. Thats why you hear a rapid clicking noise.

Sorry if this is more than you wanted to know. I can get on my soapbox pretty easily. The bottom line is that you should clean all connections(particularly to the battery). If you have access to a voltmeter, perform the tests I have mentioned. You should also check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. Anything in the 13 to 14 volt DC range would mean your charging system is fine.

[SRK]

These starters are notorious for contact wear in the solenoid. Cheap parts, easily replaced. The problem is the starter is tough to access. Slow cranking speed with a known good battery in good charge condition means the solenoid. The battery cables and terminal ends rarely go bad - it is a Toyota after all. Find a shop that will repair the starter and not simply replace it with a new one. That more than doubles the cost, when in fact all you need are solenoid contacts.

[landar]

These starters are notorious for contact wear in the solenoid. Cheap parts, easily replaced. The problem is the starter is tough to access. Slow cranking speed with a known good battery in good charge condition means the solenoid. The battery cables and terminal ends rarely go bad - it is a Toyota after all. Find a shop that will repair the starter and not simply replace it with a new one. That more than doubles the cost, when in fact all you need are solenoid contacts.

I once replaced the starter relay contacts in my son's Toyota Corolla with lift truck parts. Turns out the Toyota lift trucks(tow motors) use the same starter parts as their cars....makes sense. Replacing the contacts was easy, getting the starter out of the car took some time. Had to be a contortionist.

[AustinGT]

Thanks guys- this started on Tuesday, and I replaced the battery on Wednesday. So far (as of Saturday) the car starts up fine, the starter just makes a lower-pitched sound and is somewhat slower. Landar, I appreciate the info- I did check the battery terminals with a voltmeter and found that the car's electrical system wasn't pulling any current (which was good). Because the car still starts reliably (knock on wood!!!!), I will wait to replace the solenoids and/or relays. I thought this was interesting though.... there is an older couple I am good friends with, and their '03 UL LS430 has always had a similar starting sound that mine now has- mine used to be more rapid and high-pitched, but now it has the slightly slower, lower pitched starter sound like the newer one. Go figure.... Thanks for all the help so far!!

[etex]

You might also consider that the NEW battery may not have been fully charged when you installed it. If that is the case, driving it a while should fully charge it, and maybe the spin will be more rapid.