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Power Steering Solenoid


mls

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Has anyone ever wired the solenoid so that maximum boost is continuos at any speed? Also, if this was done is there any chance it could cause any damage to the system?

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Hi mls,

Since you are from Lake Charles, I will be easy on you..lol..what would be the purpose? It is a variable ratio rack for a reason. A very balanced system, to be sure, and susceptible to little quirks. Welcome to the club.

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My Lexus does not seem to have a precise on center feel especially on the highway. I feel my BMW had a much better steering system. The car tends to wander some and requires minor steering corrections. The steeering is tight but force required to frequently correct on highway with no boost can be annoying. I know tires, alignment, and worn suspension components could also cause some of these symtoms.

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Hi mls,

Since you are from Lake Charles, I will be easy on you..lol..what would be the purpose? It is a variable ratio rack for a reason. A very balanced system, to be sure, and susceptible to little quirks. Welcome to the club.

I'm experiencing one of these little quirks right now. I've replaced the pump, cleaned the screens, flushed the fluid etc. But I'm still getting a stiff wheel. In the mornings the wheel is easy to turn with one finger, but then it quickly becomes harder to turn after the car warms up a bit. Any suggestions? Do many people have to replace the solenoid too? 313,000 miles it could be time?

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Hi mls,

Since you are from Lake Charles, I will be easy on you..lol..what would be the purpose? It is a variable ratio rack for a reason. A very balanced system, to be sure, and susceptible to little quirks. Welcome to the club.

I'm experiencing one of these little quirks right now. I've replaced the pump, cleaned the screens, flushed the fluid etc. But I'm still getting a stiff wheel. In the mornings the wheel is easy to turn with one finger, but then it quickly becomes harder to turn after the car warms up a bit. Any suggestions? Do many people have to replace the solenoid too? 313,000 miles it could be time?

91:

I had this exact same problem when I was going through my trials and tribulations a year & a half ago. The solution was to swap the flow control valve from the old P/S pump into the new P/S pump. Hopefully, you haven't returned the old pump (containing the old flow control valve) for the core value yet, have you?

btw; It's very unlikely that your solenoid needs replacing.........

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Hi mls,

Since you are from Lake Charles, I will be easy on you..lol..what would be the purpose? It is a variable ratio rack for a reason. A very balanced system, to be sure, and susceptible to little quirks. Welcome to the club.

I'm experiencing one of these little quirks right now. I've replaced the pump, cleaned the screens, flushed the fluid etc. But I'm still getting a stiff wheel. In the mornings the wheel is easy to turn with one finger, but then it quickly becomes harder to turn after the car warms up a bit. Any suggestions? Do many people have to replace the solenoid too? 313,000 miles it could be time?

91:

I had this exact same problem when I was going through my trials and tribulations a year & a half ago. The solution was to swap the flow control valve from the old P/S pump into the new P/S pump. Hopefully, you haven't returned the old pump (containing the old flow control valve) for the core value yet, have you?

btw; It's very unlikely that your solenoid needs replacing.........

I forgot to mention that I replaced that part also with one from toad. I had the new ACV on the old pump first, but then went ahead and replaced the pump too, transferring it over to the new pump. We are talking about the valve that's about 7 o'clock down on the pump with the 2 ports for the vacuum from the intake? I'm stumped. I also didn't mention that I did not remove the screen on the solenoid and then flush. Just flushed the fluid first and brushed the screen clean, then replaced.

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Hi mls,

Since you are from Lake Charles, I will be easy on you..lol..what would be the purpose? It is a variable ratio rack for a reason. A very balanced system, to be sure, and susceptible to little quirks. Welcome to the club.

I'm experiencing one of these little quirks right now. I've replaced the pump, cleaned the screens, flushed the fluid etc. But I'm still getting a stiff wheel. In the mornings the wheel is easy to turn with one finger, but then it quickly becomes harder to turn after the car warms up a bit. Any suggestions? Do many people have to replace the solenoid too? 313,000 miles it could be time?

91:

I had this exact same problem when I was going through my trials and tribulations a year & a half ago. The solution was to swap the flow control valve from the old P/S pump into the new P/S pump. Hopefully, you haven't returned the old pump (containing the old flow control valve) for the core value yet, have you?

btw; It's very unlikely that your solenoid needs replacing.........

I forgot to mention that I replaced that part also with one from toad. I had the new ACV on the old pump first, but then went ahead and replaced the pump too, transferring it over to the new pump. We are talking about the valve that's about 7 o'clock down on the pump with the 2 ports for the vacuum from the intake? I'm stumped. I also didn't mention that I did not remove the screen on the solenoid and then flush. Just flushed the fluid first and brushed the screen clean, then replaced.

91:

No, you're talking about the ACV or air control valve. I'm referring to the Flow Control Valve, or FCV, if you will.

The flow control valve lives inside of the body of the pump and can be accessed by removing the Pressure Port Union from the body of the pump. The Pressure Port Union is under the Banjo fitting that has the high pressure discharge hose attached to it. Basically, it's the main high pressure output of the P/S pump. You'll have to do a search for "Pressure Port Union" and "Power Steering".......there are pictures on this site, I just can't lay my hands on them right now.

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Hi mls,

Since you are from Lake Charles, I will be easy on you..lol..what would be the purpose? It is a variable ratio rack for a reason. A very balanced system, to be sure, and susceptible to little quirks. Welcome to the club.

I'm experiencing one of these little quirks right now. I've replaced the pump, cleaned the screens, flushed the fluid etc. But I'm still getting a stiff wheel. In the mornings the wheel is easy to turn with one finger, but then it quickly becomes harder to turn after the car warms up a bit. Any suggestions? Do many people have to replace the solenoid too? 313,000 miles it could be time?

91:

I had this exact same problem when I was going through my trials and tribulations a year & a half ago. The solution was to swap the flow control valve from the old P/S pump into the new P/S pump. Hopefully, you haven't returned the old pump (containing the old flow control valve) for the core value yet, have you?

btw; It's very unlikely that your solenoid needs replacing.........

I forgot to mention that I replaced that part also with one from toad. I had the new ACV on the old pump first, but then went ahead and replaced the pump too, transferring it over to the new pump. We are talking about the valve that's about 7 o'clock down on the pump with the 2 ports for the vacuum from the intake? I'm stumped. I also didn't mention that I did not remove the screen on the solenoid and then flush. Just flushed the fluid first and brushed the screen clean, then replaced.

91:

No, you're talking about the ACV or air control valve. I'm referring to the Flow Control Valve, or FCV, if you will.

The flow control valve lives inside of the body of the pump and can be accessed by removing the Pressure Port Union from the body of the pump. The Pressure Port Union is under the Banjo fitting that has the high pressure discharge hose attached to it. Basically, it's the main high pressure output of the P/S pump. You'll have to do a search for "Pressure Port Union" and "Power Steering".......there are pictures on this site, I just can't lay my hands on them right now.

91:

Go to this post & read ALL of the replies, be patient, it will help you;

Flow Control Valve

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Hi mls,

Since you are from Lake Charles, I will be easy on you..lol..what would be the purpose? It is a variable ratio rack for a reason. A very balanced system, to be sure, and susceptible to little quirks. Welcome to the club.

I'm experiencing one of these little quirks right now. I've replaced the pump, cleaned the screens, flushed the fluid etc. But I'm still getting a stiff wheel. In the mornings the wheel is easy to turn with one finger, but then it quickly becomes harder to turn after the car warms up a bit. Any suggestions? Do many people have to replace the solenoid too? 313,000 miles it could be time?

91:

I had this exact same problem when I was going through my trials and tribulations a year & a half ago. The solution was to swap the flow control valve from the old P/S pump into the new P/S pump. Hopefully, you haven't returned the old pump (containing the old flow control valve) for the core value yet, have you?

btw; It's very unlikely that your solenoid needs replacing.........

I forgot to mention that I replaced that part also with one from toad. I had the new ACV on the old pump first, but then went ahead and replaced the pump too, transferring it over to the new pump. We are talking about the valve that's about 7 o'clock down on the pump with the 2 ports for the vacuum from the intake? I'm stumped. I also didn't mention that I did not remove the screen on the solenoid and then flush. Just flushed the fluid first and brushed the screen clean, then replaced.

91:

No, you're talking about the ACV or air control valve. I'm referring to the Flow Control Valve, or FCV, if you will.

The flow control valve lives inside of the body of the pump and can be accessed by removing the Pressure Port Union from the body of the pump. The Pressure Port Union is under the Banjo fitting that has the high pressure discharge hose attached to it. Basically, it's the main high pressure output of the P/S pump. You'll have to do a search for "Pressure Port Union" and "Power Steering".......there are pictures on this site, I just can't lay my hands on them right now.

91:

Go to this post & read ALL of the replies, be patient, it will help you;

Flow Control Valve

So the flow control valve is different or incorrect in the rebuilt pump that I installed? I still have the core so I can retrieve the old one there. Is it merely cleaning up the old and putting in the rebuilt pump or is there more that needs to be done to the original flow control valve to make it work correctly in the rebuilt pump?

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So the flow control valve is different or incorrect in the rebuilt pump that I installed?

91:

It is my very strong opinion that the flow control valve that is presently in your newly installed P/S pump does not have the same flow and pressure characteristics as the flow control valve that is presently contained in your old P/S pump. Why, I don't have a clue........One would think that the re-builders of the P/S pumps would be able to get that right, but apparently not.

I still have the core so I can retrieve the old one there. Is it merely cleaning up the old and putting in the rebuilt pump or is there more that needs to be done to the original flow control valve to make it work correctly in the rebuilt pump?

I want to make sure we are in total understanding here. What I did was to remove the old flow control valve from the old P/S pump, remove the new flow control valve from the new P/S pump and install the old flow control valve into the new P/S pump. That solved all my driveability problems........period. This is assuming that you have cleaned the rack solenoid filter screen.

In other words, "Just swap them"........there's nothing else to do.....no modifications, etc.

Then, once you've happy with the way the car drives/steers, put the "new" flow control valve into the old core and ship it/take it back for the core charge.

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So the flow control valve is different or incorrect in the rebuilt pump that I installed?

91:

It is my very strong opinion that the flow control valve that is presently in your newly installed P/S pump does not have the same flow and pressure characteristics as the flow control valve that is presently contained in your old P/S pump. Why, I don't have a clue........One would think that the re-builders of the P/S pumps would be able to get that right, but apparently not.

I still have the core so I can retrieve the old one there. Is it merely cleaning up the old and putting in the rebuilt pump or is there more that needs to be done to the original flow control valve to make it work correctly in the rebuilt pump?

I want to make sure we are in total understanding here. What I did was to remove the old flow control valve from the old P/S pump, remove the new flow control valve from the new P/S pump and install the old flow control valve into the new P/S pump. That solved all my driveability problems........period. This is assuming that you have cleaned the rack solenoid filter screen.

In other words, "Just swap them"........there's nothing else to do.....no modifications, etc.

Then, once you've happy with the way the car drives/steers, put the "new" flow control valve into the old core and ship it/take it back for the core charge.

Thanks, I don't know what else that I can do besides switch the FCV, I've done everything else. We'll give it a shot. No telling how much $$$ this board has saved me. It really makes it affordable to keep a car like this going. Real experiences by owners and not relying on a mechanic or parts guys that thinks it will fix the problem. Awesome.

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So the flow control valve is different or incorrect in the rebuilt pump that I installed?

91:

It is my very strong opinion that the flow control valve that is presently in your newly installed P/S pump does not have the same flow and pressure characteristics as the flow control valve that is presently contained in your old P/S pump. Why, I don't have a clue........One would think that the re-builders of the P/S pumps would be able to get that right, but apparently not.

I still have the core so I can retrieve the old one there. Is it merely cleaning up the old and putting in the rebuilt pump or is there more that needs to be done to the original flow control valve to make it work correctly in the rebuilt pump?

I want to make sure we are in total understanding here. What I did was to remove the old flow control valve from the old P/S pump, remove the new flow control valve from the new P/S pump and install the old flow control valve into the new P/S pump. That solved all my driveability problems........period. This is assuming that you have cleaned the rack solenoid filter screen.

In other words, "Just swap them"........there's nothing else to do.....no modifications, etc.

Then, once you've happy with the way the car drives/steers, put the "new" flow control valve into the old core and ship it/take it back for the core charge.

Thanks, I don't know what else that I can do besides switch the FCV, I've done everything else. We'll give it a shot. No telling how much $$$ this board has saved me. It really makes it affordable to keep a car like this going. Real experiences by owners and not relying on a mechanic or parts guys that thinks it will fix the problem. Awesome.

91:

I think it IS your FCV, & it's an easy swap. This board only saves you money when the repair is complete and it works.

Real experiences by owners and not relying on a mechanic or parts guys that thinks it will fix the problem. Awesome.

To those of us who have experience with identifying and fixing problems, it makes ALL the difference in the world when trying help someone that will ACTUALLY listen, such as yourself. You are to be commended for that. You will find that people on this board will absolutely bend over backwards to help you, but you must be willing to be at least 50% of the equation, which you have more than done so. Again, Kudo's :cheers:

Having said that, it is also your responsibility to let everyone here know how everything works out so that others will benefit from your experience (otherwise known as expertise). If the FCV swap doesn't do it, tell us. We will all help, however we can.

btw; When trying to remove the FCV from the new pump on the car, stick your little pinky up in the hole and tap it on the FCV. It will want to drop out, so don't remove your pinky all the way when the FCV starts moving.

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Thread cutter,

Thanks for the kudos and for the pinky tip. Should I expect alot of fluid to come out with the fluid control valve as well? I will definately post the results here to let others know if they're experiencing some of the same symptoms with their cars. This car has been in my family since new (I took it to prom in '93), I'm taking her to at least 500,000 miles with a little luck and good maintenance. The car runs as close to new as you can get right now with 313,000 miles. Thanks again! :cheers:

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Thread cutter,

Thanks for the kudos and for the pinky tip. Should I expect alot of fluid to come out with the fluid control valve as well? I will definately post the results here to let others know if they're experiencing some of the same symptoms with their cars. This car has been in my family since new (I took it to prom in '93), I'm taking her to at least 500,000 miles with a little luck and good maintenance. The car runs as close to new as you can get right now with 313,000 miles. Thanks again! :cheers:

91:

I don't honestly remember how much fluid came out, but I'd suggest that you use a turkey baster and remove as much from the reservoir as possible before swapping the FCV's. Something tells me that it wasn't very much, but I'd hate to lie about something like that.

If you can fit a coffee can or something like it down, in & under the pump, it wouldn't hurt either. If it's a metal container, disconnect your battery beforehand. Remember, the alternator has a Hot connection to/from the battery on it. It'd be nasty to get a metal can across the Hot lead of the battery & ground!

313K!......Wow, I'm impressed!......I'm "only" at 225K.

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Thread Cutter

What if you have had the pump replaced, didn't change the valve, and the old pump is gone?? Can you get a different valve??

ducati:

I really don't have a good answer for you, which I feel bad about. Particularly when it "should" be a simple thing. When I overhauled my P/S system, which included replacing the P/S pump with a rebuild, I still had the old core when I figured out to swap the FCV.

I don't know why the new pump came with an inappropriate FCV, but it did. I didn't have to try and buy one, so I don't know how you would go about doing it. My pump was a Maval brand and they are located in either Cleveland or Cincinnati if memory serves me correct.

If you did use a Maval rebuild you could try calling them to see if they would either send you one N/C or sell you one. I think the one that came in the (new) rebuild had a letter "F" engraved on it & the one I took out of the old OEM pump had an "E" engraved on it. Check this thread;

P/S Pump

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Ok, changed the fluid contol valve. Didn't know to check for an E or F until I just got back on the board. The wheel was very easy when I first started up the car, but it is still hard steering once it warms up a bit. I put the car up and turned the wheels back and forth, back and forth about 30 times. Still hard steering. I've changed the ACV, FCV, the pump, cleaned both screens, flushed the system 2-3 times, WTF? STILL HARD STEERING. The rack is only a few years old, but it is a reman and not leaking?

The new pump whines just a bit (very slightly) so maybe there is still some air in the system?

I saw where someone else took off their solenoid screen, then flushed, then put the screen back on. Does it screw on? I didn't really pay attention if it could be removed or not. Could it be the solenoid is bad too?

I'm at a loss...

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  • 2 weeks later...
Ok, changed the fluid contol valve. Didn't know to check for an E or F until I just got back on the board. The wheel was very easy when I first started up the car, but it is still hard steering once it warms up a bit. I put the car up and turned the wheels back and forth, back and forth about 30 times. Still hard steering. I've changed the ACV, FCV, the pump, cleaned both screens, flushed the system 2-3 times, WTF? STILL HARD STEERING. The rack is only a few years old, but it is a reman and not leaking?

The new pump whines just a bit (very slightly) so maybe there is still some air in the system?

I saw where someone else took off their solenoid screen, then flushed, then put the screen back on. Does it screw on? I didn't really pay attention if it could be removed or not. Could it be the solenoid is bad too?

I'm at a loss...

91:

Sorry, it's been very hectic lately.......

You've managed to confuse me a little........Have you already cleaned your solenoid screen? That is a "must do". I can't speak for anyone else, but I did flush my system with the solenoid screen removed. Of course, I re-installed it after completing the flush.

It's certainly possible that the solenoid is bad, but pretty unlikely. I've never seen a post on this board with a bad solenoid.

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Yes, I've cleaned the screens, but didn't flush with solenoid screen removed. In the mornings for about the 1st quarter mile or so the steering feels like a dream. Then it goes stiff for the rest of the day. I'll try flushing without the screen in place and see if that does it. Does the screen simply unscrew from the solenoid?

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