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Trying To Remove Egr


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Well im almost done with all the basic maintenance items which were neglected for many years. I’ve got two more things to do and they are giving me the most trouble. First off I cant remove the EGR valve and the fuel filter is rusted on.

Im trying to remove the EGR valve and can not get the two bolts on the bottom of the EGR pipe off. Im following ALL DATA instructions but they are very vague and im so close but so far. The all data instructions say to remove the heater control valve and wire harness. I got the heater valve off but can not figure out how to get the wiring harness out. It doesn’t seem like there is any way to remove this harness but all data says to so i guess you should. The only problem is iI cant get the ratchet in to unscrew the bottom bolts. Ive got the bolts off the egr and everything surrounding it is removed disconnected. Can someone please help me out? I need to get this car on the road because I need to drive it to school on Tuesday.

I’ve been soaking the fuel filter inlet and outlet tubes in PB blaster for the last 3 hours and it still wont budge i put some more on and will try again after school tomorrow. Hopefully I could get this thing off soon. Its been on there for 60k miles and my boss always used the lowest octane so its most likely filthy.

Thanks in advance

John

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The octane rating of the fuel should have no real effect on the cleanliness of the filter. Soaking and elbow grease are the main ingredients to removal of anything rusted.. PB Blaster is one of my favorites as well.

I finally figured out how to remove the EGR. This thing is filthy with a lot of carbon build up. Carbon comes off in chunks when I move a toothpick over it. All data says you have to disconnect the engine wire harness but i couldn’t figure how to do that and it actually might be more work. I disconnected the ECU wiring hoping to pull the wires up enough so I could get a rachet in there but that was useless. I was talking to this mechanic i know and he mentioned using long extensions and a swivel socket. So i went to sears and bought a 17" extension and a swivel 12mm socket. Well it worked great. Now I have to worry about getting it back on. Its 26 degrees right now with a wind chill of 13 degrees so I think ill call it a night. Its so time consuming the first time but now it seams easier.

I think im going to make a write-up of the EGR disassembly and reassembly just because its seems there isnt that much tech info regarding this car and it will hopefully help out someone else.

GuyTelefunken thanks again for the help :D .

-John

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Well i finished everything up but the fuel filter and i still have the check engine light on. Im going to double check the codes tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll be able to use the scan tool at school. I cleaned out the EGR and EGR tube and checked to see if it was working properly and it was. When i applied vacuum the diaphragm would move. I guess there could be a clogged line but that will take a while to track down since i would have to disconnect all the lines and shoot air through them. The exhaust on the car really smells. Ive been reading about other items in the EGR line and I keep seeing people having problem with the carbon/vapor canister and the modulator. Could anyone describe the function of these items? Will these throw a code and make the exhaust smell. Any light on this situation would be great.

I checked the VSV sensor and it is above the specified reistance when cold. Specified cold is 30-34 ohms and its reading 42.2 ohms right now.

Is there any way to test the carbon canister or modulator?

Thanks

John

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No good news today. I brought it to my mechanic just to scan the computer and it found the same faults even after resetting computer. Rear O2 sensor and faulty EGR. I tested the EGR modulator and that’s clogged so hopefully thats why the EGR fault is set but there is a new o2 sensor in there and the wiring looks like it was never touched or tampered with.

The odd thing is the code (light) comes right up when you start the car. It comes up instantly not even a second later. We both found that odd since the o2 sensor and egr don’t turn on until the car cycles so the codes should not have come up for a couple minutes. My mechanic is thinking there is something wrong in the computer itself or worse somewhere in the wiring to these components. Any thoughts. Im going to work on this until work so hopefully i could get that modulator and do some diagnosing.

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