Steering Wheel Vibration At 65-70mph

[scottelble]

I drive a 98' LS400. I've had a 4 wheel alignment, balanced my wheels twice, replaced my tires, and had my rims inspected for damage. I'm still feeling a vibration at 65-70mph.I also have new rotors but it's in the steering wheel and not the brake peddle.Has anyone experienced this.....Rrrrrr, it's frustrating me!

[RCRFAN3]

Do you have Bridgestone's I had a trouble keeping them balanced?

[Mosh]

Your driveshaft may need to be balanced. There are weights tack welded on there from the factory and it is a good possibility that one came loose or flew off. I would check that. I would assume that a good driveshaft shop could balance it for you. Hope this helps.

[92Lex]

Your driveshaft may need to be balanced. There are weights tack welded on there from the factory and it is a good possibility that one came loose or flew off. I would check that. I would assume that a good driveshaft shop could balance it for you. Hope this helps.

If that was the case then wouldn't the vibration increase after that 65-70mph frame?

[Gryphon]

You may also have tires with tread separation. I did, with similar symtoms.

Tom

[nc211]

it's not the driveshaft....if it were that, you would feel it in the seat, and it would be extremely fast.

Question: who balanced the tires? And what kind of tires, how old are they? But more importantly, who balanced them, and what did they use? For the LS...if you want the best balancing, you have to use the hunter systems. All the dealership's have them. But, if you go here: www.gps9700.com and put in your zip code, you'll find quite a few places other than the dealership that has this system as well. You WANT to make sure you have them use the "road force" option. The tire itself will interact with your rims, and can have heavy spots if they're not properly installed. The road force option will find the heavy spots, and they can remount the tire to off-set this.

Number 2.... You said you have new rotors... What kind of rotors? OEM or aftermarket, and who put them on. Two issues come up with the rotors: #1) They have two, soft metal, centering screws that are needed upon install. These two tiny screws in the middle will center the rotor on the hub. I know this to be FACT as I went through this myself last spring, and my car shook, shimmied and hopped until I figured it out. If you had the dealership put oem's on, then I wouldn't worry about it, as they know this. #2) Warped....just because they're new, doesn't mean they're not warped and need to be turned ever-so-slightly. I have new rotors on my car, Moutain's to be exact. And my steering wheel had been doing the same thing yours is now, for months. I just had them turned for the 1st time a couple weeks ago....no more shaking.

Additional: #3) Pads..more importantly, installation of pads.... They had to be removed to get the rotors off. They sit on two sliding pins. If those pins were not cleaned and regreased, or if one of your shims on the back of the pads is not aligned right "you'll hear clicking when you stop..got this issue myself", the pads can stick just a little too close to the rotors, which will heat up, and eventually lead to a warped rotor.

You have 4 options in my opinion. 1) Improper equipment used for balancing "likely" 2) Improper rotor installment "not likely because you would definetly known that quickly 3) Warped rotor "possible" or 4) bad alignment done.

Learn from me "search for my wobble thread, it's huge" After a couple of attempts from other shops and nothing works, just pony up to the dealership, demand a senior tech look at your car, and be done with it. I've learned that trying to save $100 here, $100 there...usually ends up spending an additional $100 here, $100 there, when I should have gone to the dealer. If there is one thing I HATE ABOUT THESE CARS, is that there is very little forgiveness in suspension tuning for vibrations. They're soo smooth, but damn if one tiny thing will screw up the ride and drive you insane!!

I feel your pain amigo...I feel your pain.

[bicol-ini]

check you steerring gear, bushing might be loose already, also check you tie rod ends, hope this helps, hey nc211 your still alive he he he

[nc211]

check you steerring gear, bushing might be loose already, also check you tie rod ends, hope this helps, hey nc211 your still alive he he he

Yeah man, still chasing down those miles to catch up to you and Blake. The car is doing good, needs a tune up soon and some general maintance. I haven't had time to even wash it in nearly 3 months. I cut out about 3 hours a few weeks ago to service the front brakes and change the oil, and that's it, that's all I've done to it since September. It looks bad, but operates fine. Good thing about having a garage, and covered parking at the office, is no bird crap! Just a ton of bug guts on the grill, which a quick swipe with the window cleaner stick while filling it up at the gas station usually works.

[1990LS400]

A coworker (99 LS) and I (00 LS) both are having difficulty in eliminating all vibration from the wheels/tires at about 65 mph that are felt through the steering wheel.

The local Lexus dealer told me during visits in August and November that that I have one defective tire in both my summer (all season Dunlop 5000) and winter (Bridgestone Blizzak) wheel/tire sets. The winter tires are mounted on separate wheels.

Both "defective" tires look just fine and have plenty of tread left.

Attached is an invoice with the Lexus dealer's description of the defect that prevents properly balancing the summer tire. The description of the defective winter tire is similar. Putting the "bad" tires on the rear made the vibration virtually unnoticable.

It is odd that we never had a problem with wheel balance on my first LS (smaller wheels/tires - 205/65-15) over almost 14 years and a number of sets of tires. And we have never had a wheel balance issue with our 98 Camry which also uses 205/65-15 tires.

What is it with the larger wheels and tires that makes the newer LS400 so sensitive to tire imperfections? Is it just the greater mass of larger tires and wheels that amplifies the vibrations.

[mannye]

I have the exact same shimm on a "new" LS 430 i bought last week. The vibration starts at about 63 and goes to 70-something.

I too have noticed that the advent of larger wheels and tires has made vibrations harder to eliminate. (it xeems that way anyway). I purchased a new 1995 Impala SS that came with what back then were huge 17 inch wheel that were almost 11 or 12 inches wide and it took many different trips to at least three different shops all using the Hunter system to get the vibrations under control at high speeds.

My theory is that the craftsmanship needed to do the job right has risen a few notches and the quality of the workers at these places has fallen several notches. The Hunter machine takes a little more care and attention to do the job right despite all the automation it brings to the table. With a careful operator at the helm, it is capable of perfection, but with a minimum wage monkey doing the button pushing, you can't expect much.

[scottelble]

it's not the driveshaft....if it were that, you would feel it in the seat, and it would be extremely fast.

Question: who balanced the tires? And what kind of tires, how old are they? But more importantly, who balanced them, and what did they use? For the LS...if you want the best balancing, you have to use the hunter systems. All the dealership's have them. But, if you go here: www.gps9700.com and put in your zip code, you'll find quite a few places other than the dealership that has this system as well. You WANT to make sure you have them use the "road force" option. The tire itself will interact with your rims, and can have heavy spots if they're not properly installed. The road force option will find the heavy spots, and they can remount the tire to off-set this.

Number 2.... You said you have new rotors... What kind of rotors? OEM or aftermarket, and who put them on. Two issues come up with the rotors: #1) They have two, soft metal, centering screws that are needed upon install. These two tiny screws in the middle will center the rotor on the hub. I know this to be FACT as I went through this myself last spring, and my car shook, shimmied and hopped until I figured it out. If you had the dealership put oem's on, then I wouldn't worry about it, as they know this. #2) Warped....just because they're new, doesn't mean they're not warped and need to be turned ever-so-slightly. I have new rotors on my car, Moutain's to be exact. And my steering wheel had been doing the same thing yours is now, for months. I just had them turned for the 1st time a couple weeks ago....no more shaking.

Additional: #3) Pads..more importantly, installation of pads.... They had to be removed to get the rotors off. They sit on two sliding pins. If those pins were not cleaned and regreased, or if one of your shims on the back of the pads is not aligned right "you'll hear clicking when you stop..got this issue myself", the pads can stick just a little too close to the rotors, which will heat up, and eventually lead to a warped rotor.

You have 4 options in my opinion. 1) Improper equipment used for balancing "likely" 2) Improper rotor installment "not likely because you would definetly known that quickly 3) Warped rotor "possible" or 4) bad alignment done.

Learn from me "search for my wobble thread, it's huge" After a couple of attempts from other shops and nothing works, just pony up to the dealership, demand a senior tech look at your car, and be done with it. I've learned that trying to save $100 here, $100 there...usually ends up spending an additional $100 here, $100 there, when I should have gone to the dealer. If there is one thing I HATE ABOUT THESE CARS, is that there is very little forgiveness in suspension tuning for vibrations. They're soo smooth, but damn if one tiny thing will screw up the ride and drive you insane!!

I feel your pain amigo...I feel your pain.

I have a very trust worthy japanease meachanic whom has serviced all 5 lexus's i've owned. He alway's uses oem parts and i've never had any issue related to his work, so i don't think it's the rotors or pads. unfortunatly he doesn't do tire balancing so i've had no choice but to use a ''ken towery" automotive that's near my work. I've had them balance the tires twice already so i'm starting to think it's the man more than the machine. You're totally right, what i'm gonna have to do is just go to the dealership and get it done right once and for all.......I just hope they give me a courtesy bandaid for after they've busted my head on the cost;)

[LScott400]

I too have noticed that the advent of larger wheels and tires has made vibrations harder to eliminate. (it xeems that way anyway).

Automakers are putting a premium on decreasing unsprung weight. Meaning anything not supported by the springs, including spindles, axles and wheels. Reducing unsprung weight improves handling by allowing the tires to stay in contact with uneven road surfaces due to a decrease in inertial forces. This can allow automakers to use softer shocks and springs to improve ride comfort without compromising handling.

Weight reduction also equals better fuel economy, but less weight means that the suspension has less mass to absorb vibrations from the tire/wheel assembly. Add to this that the tire sidewall is reduced to compensate for the increased wheel diameter and you have a trend back towards the covered wagon and the Flintstones' mobile.

Having said all that, I do not believe that factory size tire and wheel assemblies on the LS should be all that difficult to properly dignose and service. Your theory is right on the money.

[leeelooo]

I too have noticed that the advent of larger wheels and tires has made vibrations harder to eliminate. (it xeems that way anyway).

Automakers are putting a premium on decreasing unsprung weight. Meaning anything not supported by the springs, including spindles, axles and wheels. Reducing unsprung weight improves handling by allowing the tires to stay in contact with uneven road surfaces due to a decrease in inertial forces. This can allow automakers to use softer shocks and springs to improve ride comfort without compromising handling.

Weight reduction also equals better fuel economy, but less weight means that the suspension has less mass to absorb vibrations from the tire/wheel assembly. Add to this that the tire sidewall is reduced to compensate for the increased wheel diameter and you have a trend back towards the covered wagon and the Flintstones' mobile.

Having said all that, I do not believe that factory size tire and wheel assemblies on the LS should be all that difficult to properly dignose and service. Your theory is right on the money.

if you had all possible components balanced, you still feel vibration, then it is driveshaft that someone mentioned earlier. weight came off from driveshaft.

I had same vibration felt at around 45 mile/perhour and then i had had wheels balanced by discounttire several times within a month and till felt vibratio. Later I had it checked by lexus dealer - test drive. According to tech, if it was wheel balance issue, then the steering wheels will be vibrated left/right, and he said my one was bibrated vertically along steering column, so he added that it could be driveshaft issue.

Following Lexus' tech hit, I checked driveshaft, I found there was a 20mm x 20mm rust area on rear part of driveshaft. It is the biggest weight I can find; all other weights are smaller in size. I don't know what is the thicknes of the weight, so I assume it wa about 1mm thick and made one and then attached to the rust area duct tape secured.

the bibration (actually it is called resonace) shiftted to different speed with different weights that I had tried. I could not get a right size (weight) but it is better than before (was like driving a train).

Tip:

driveshaft is heat treated so it is impossible to make a hole for screw. Also I used liquidnail and the weight came off next day. To use duct tape, worked just fine but to make sure it is wrapped in a right direction. o/w it will come off soon.

I also tied to use hoseclamp and it does not work may be too much weight added

I checked on eBay, one used one might cost $70, but i still leave it as is with my own weight/duct tape, as it is much better than before

I also checked local driveshaft shop - the rough estimattion is about $240 and they said they have never done with Lexus so don't knwo what is the outcome...

[UsualSuspect]

One possibility not mentioned is your air suspension.

I had the same experience with bad alignment and multiple mounting and remounting and balancing of all the tires and nothing helped. Vibes began about 65mph and went to about 80mph. A friend mentioned that it might be my air ride but since it worked fine I wasnt about to mess with it.

But when a rear airshock went out I went ahead and replaced my complete air ride with struts and shocks...and the vibe problem went away.

The air ride was up and worked fine for the last 3 years that I've been the owner but the vibration appears to have been a result of the air suspension as that is the only thing that changed when changing to struts.

[scottelble]

Buying New tires of better quality was the answer. Pricey........but defidently worth it!

[SW03ES]

I had a feeling thats what it would be.

[VBdenny]

Tires out of balance or worse. I just put new tires on mine and I noticed a vibration beween 78 and 83. Nothing at faster or slower speeds. Not a very noticeable vibration, just one that drives you nuts. I will have to take them in a get them rebalanced. The tires are nice. I decided on BF Goodrich Taction T/A V's 225-60-VR15. Very nice tires considering what came off.