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Looking For Car Audio Help On Lex Metra Kit Door Mods Es Owner New Ls


azmalu

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Hey guys i have used the search feature and have not found what I am looking for. Now that being said

.....

I drive a 94 es and have the option of buying mothers 98 es(170k) or dads 90 ls (315k new motor with 150k put in last week) I just picked it up and love driving it.

There was one owner in between for about a year and they took out cell phone so rears dont work. I found a thread about that so I can figure out how to get those to work. I think I want to gut out this system though. passive xovers from the nak system are no fun

I want to put my double din dvd player in and run comps off HU power 45x4 19 RMS .

I blew out perfect 12 via 600 rms from JBL bp600.1 after a year and half so I need to step up to something that can handle more rms power + 3 year warranty....

my 94 es with double din dvd using metra kit

ED 130v2 dvc 4ohm 3 yr warranty xmax 18.3 spl 89.1

So after you read through the wall of text my questions are:

1. What metra part no. can I order and mod to fit doubel din?

2. What is mounting depth on doors?

3. Has anyone fit 6.5's in door after bondo work etc?

4. Is oem speaker size 4 or 5.25 or neither?

5. Where is the best place to go through firewall and run 1 ga. power wire

6. What is amp rating on factory alt?

Unrelated question...don't flame for asking about climate control I have read some threads...

1. Assuming you have bought climate control LCD for 100 bucks and have minimal experience soldering is the replacement project rather easy to do (10-15 solder points for removal and replacement) Otherwise does Jim on here do the soldering work alone if I buy the LCD? lcd install instructions soldering 16 pins

2. Lights for brake shifter anyone know the size and quantity needed or just go to dealer and tell em I need it.

3. Im assuming at dealer the leather portion of the shifter is pretty pricy . Will 90-94 shifters all fit or is ther a way to touch up existing shifter knob? Same with steering wheel if its beat up anything other than putting on a cover?

4. Cigarette ligher compartment stays open but I havent taken it apart . Is there a tab that is most likely broken or somethign just jammed or do is it a replacement part only?

Please advise.

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Hey guys i have used the serach feature and have not found what I am looking for. Now that being said

I drive a 94 es and have the option of buying mothers 98 es(170k) or dads 90 ls (315k new motor with 150k put in last week) I just picked it up and love driving it.

There was one owner in between for about a year and they took out cell phone so rears dont work. I found a thread about that so I can figure out how to get those to work. I think I want to guy out this system though. passive xovers from the nak system are no fun

94 es with double din dvd using metra kit

I want to put my double din dvd player in run comps of HU power 45x4 19 RMS . and Ed sub

ED 130v2 dvc 4ohm 3 yr warranty xmax 18.3 spl 89.1

I blew out perfect 12 via 600 rms from JBL bp600.1 after a year and half so I need to step up to something that can handle more rms power + 3 year warranty.....

So after you read through the wall of text my questions are:

1. What metra part no. can I order and mod to fit doubel din?

2. What is mounting depth on doors?

3. Has anyone fit 6.5's in door after bondo work etc?

4. Is oem speaker size 4 or 5.25 or neither?

5. Where is the best place to go through firewall and run 1 ga. power wire

6. What is amp rating on factory alt?

Unrelated question...dont flame for asking have read some threads...

1. Assuming you have bought climate control LCD for 100 bucks and have minimal experience soldering is the replacement project rather easy to do (10-15 solder points for removal and replacement) Otherwise does Jim on here do the soldering work alone if I buy the LCD? lcd install instructions soldering 16 pins

2. Lights for brake shifter anyone know the size and quantity needed or just go to dealer and tell em I need it.

3. Im assuming at dealer the leather portion of the shifter is pretty pricy . Will 90-94 shifters all fit or is ther a way to touch up existing shifter knob? Same with steering wheel if its beat up anything other than putting on a cover?

4. Cigarette ligher compartment stays open but I havent taken it apart . Is there a tab that is most likely broken or somethign just jammed or do is it a replacement part only?

Please advise.

I can only answer a couple of the questions that you asked, now, assuming you're talking about the speakers in the LS, stock size is 4" , you could use 6.5" but you won't be able to use the stock box. I upgraded mine to 5.25" MBquarts with active crossovers which i was able to situate in the same box, so only minor mods needed to be made. The difference on my Nak, with those speakers is like day and night. Very cryspy clean, no matter what volume level.. if you're looking for bass, then u'd need to change your stock sub and amp. As far as the lcd display, the job itself is super easy, it'll probably take you longer to disassemble the unit, then to solder the pins, you just need a steady hand, and you detach, and reattach the new diplay by just heating up the pins, no soldering wire needed. I hope that helps.

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facliott thanks for the input but let me clarify "run comps of HU power 45x4 19 RMS . and Ed sub" ...

this means I want to run a component set of speakers seperate woofer and tweeter of aftermarket headunit power which in this case is my kenwood ddx 7015 rated at 45x4 peaks and continious power of ~20 watts per channel.

"I think I want to gut out this system though. passive xovers from the nak system are no fun "

Gutting out systems in my case means running new speaker wire so that I can bypass factovery passive xovers that are inline and no longer use any power from nak system amp because I will have aftermarket doubel din unit installed... I truly cant remember whether the metra kit i bought for my 94 was practically the same thing where its designed to fit iso or single din but with a dremel rotozip etc you can fit the double din. OThers have posted the question about double din kit but one person has just showed picture of someone else with it but no one has responded as to where to buy it. ebay has the single din units and so does autotoys.com

I havent pulled door panel off yet so I dont know what you mean by box can you exapnd(please dont take antyhing I am saying as sarcastic....(i sound like a smart !Removed! by nature please forgive me)

so heating up pins allowed old unit to be removed right. Then i heat pins again and new one will stick? ...sounds easy i might spend the hundred bucks and try it any feedback about ebay auctions for lcd displays 100 bucks... see my post at end of this thread... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=83&st=120 once again thanks for the input

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AZNMALU. trust me..I know what you meant :whistles: , by box.. i meant the enclosure where the speaker is mounted. In the LS the front are component speakers, the rear are woofers without the tweeters, so not the greatest set up. I ran new component Mbquarts in front for mine,with separate 3 way crossovers, then ran 2way MBquarts with inline crossovers in the back. That type of set up works great for me, since I didn't want to go too crazy with mods. I got my LCD from that Jim fella as well, the included instructions are fairly detailed as well. Good luck.

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would a cheap 5 dollar soldering iron and maybe ten minutes of your time take care of soldering and unsoldering....? You mentioned you used the inline xover on coax so obviously you did run new speaker wire did you end up changing out factory HU ....if so did you notice whether you had full range out of those rears or kinda capped? because of te passive xovers in nak system....

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would a cheap 5 dollar soldering iron and maybe ten minutes of your time take care of soldering and unsoldering....? You mentioned you used the inline xover on coax so obviously you did run new speaker wire did you end up changing out factory HU ....if so did you notice whether you had full range out of those rears or kinda capped? because of te passive xovers in nak system....

Hey Aznmalu, yes.. any cheap soldering iron will do, when u reattach the pins, u need to heat them up and gently push down on them, and they'll sink right into the old solder, super fast! Well as far as the passive crossovers, unless there are others I am not aware of, the original Nak ones, were located right inside the speakers enclosures, so I discarded those, so I didn't really need to run a new set of speaker wires, I suppose you could run higher end oxygen free speaker wires, but I chose not to, instead I just extended the original wires where i cut them right before the passive xovers were located.I forgot what the output frequency was on my Nak head unit, but I felt it was within range for my 5.25" rear woofer, so i used an inline xover between the woofer and the tweeter in the rear, the filter our the low frequency on the tweets. Honestly, unless you're switching out the head unit for aestethic reasons, I really think that's not needed. The Nak head unit is great, as I remember its got 20W rms as well, but don;t quote on me on that. I did choose MBquarts because I know they can handle the wattage at high volume levels without any distortion. So the rears are not capped, infact i have a really crisp sound image throughout, I wish I had taken pics of my installation, the only pics I put on here, are the ones of my Bluetooth installation, but I hope i wasn;t too confusing, :cheers:

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Okay thas cool thanks for the fyi...on the es it was that easy to get to......I would want to run ofc just for the sake of ofc just so i could get rid of xover lol....Yeah I rememer when everything was working in this car I rarely would have the volume above like 1/3 It was great....today I didnt get around to taking off doors so ittle b later this week but If I told you tweets and sub are the only thing that played would you be more likely to connect that to the phone being taken out or somply amp or speakers going bad....?

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Okay thas cool thanks for the fyi...on the es it was that easy to get to......I would want to run ofc just for the sake of ofc just so i could get rid of xover lol....Yeah I rememer when everything was working in this car I rarely would have the volume above like 1/3 It was great....today I didnt get around to taking off doors so ittle b later this week but If I told you tweets and sub are the only thing that played would you be more likely to connect that to the phone being taken out or somply amp or speakers going bad....?

I personally, haven't had that problem about just the tweets and subs working, but I think i once read some posts about that happening, and the guys just changed the speakers and they worked fine. I highly doubt that it's related to the phone being taken out. Just curious, what type of speakers are u thinking about installing?

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I have this debate every time but since I am hopefully sticking to HU power im gonna go either infinity reference or jbl power series...(same parent company same PLUS ONE woofer adn surroudn just different tweets) ...JBl is typically or a more warm sound maybe even considered muddy next to infinitys but sometimes the infinitys sound too tinny....but with my new sub (blew out perfect 12 gonna get a ED 130vo2) http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/elemental..._13ov2chart.php and also contemplating changing out rear deck sub to Kicker Comp C8 (read about it on here seems like a good match) RMS 100 peak 200 but if what i read on here is right about sub channel putting out 40-50 rms it shoudl be okay.....

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  • 2 months later...

I dont know if anybody still uses this forum anymore, but I just bought a 91 LS 400 and i need help on suggestions. My neighbor gave me a set of Polk Audio DB6500 6 1/2" and i really want to install those. (I have an aftermarket HU.) because my front right tweeter is blown as well as my sobwoofer. will they be able to fit? and I also have a pair of Honda Odessy speakers that were never used (also 6 1/2") and i wanted to pu tthose in the back. Im on an extremely tight budget, so thats why i would even think about it. help??

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the mounting depth and mod work involved for 6.5 will be a lot of work and i dont know if it woudl be worth it. My first suggestiosn sell those buy same model if you like the sound 5.25" should cost you less than what you made when you sell your 6.5's lexls.com has diy instructions to get from factory 4 to 5.25 but 4 to 6 is big jump...

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