Jump to content

Will Mixing Synthetic Oil With Oil Cause Any Problems


molocka12

Recommended Posts


While having my LX tuned up my mechanic added 2 quarts of 5-30 conventional oil to my truck but I use 5-30 synthetic oil .

Should this be a concern or not a big deal. Should I change the oil?

Also should have my oil warning light come on?

From what I recall, maybe and maybe not. I don't think mixing of the oils themself is really a big deal, but I think the additives (particularly between dfferent brands) can sometimes be incompatible. If you know the specific brands of oil in there, post up on bobistheoilguy.com and someone there should be able to tell you whether this is no good. You could also email the oil manufacturer and ask them.

The oil indicator light has nothing to do with the oil you put in. Reference the owners manual, but I'm pretty sure it only comes on as an indication that the oil level is low or if there's a problem with the sensor (almost always the former). If level is correct, then you may try removing and cleaning the contacts on the connect as a first shot troubleshoot. The oil level sensor attaches to the drivers side of the upper oil pan and there is a connector there that attaches to the back side of the sensor.

Rookie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It will be no problem at all it is just a blend now.

How long till your next oil change?

I will try removing and cleaning the contacts on the connect as I believe the light should have come on to let me know

I was 2 qt low on oil

2,000 miles till my next oil change

I change my oil every 5000 miles. I have a oil leak which I will be fixing sometime before the spring I can remember car manufactures manuals in the past stating every 7,500 miles oil & oil filters every 15,000 then every 5,000 & now every 3,000.

5,000 mile oil & filter changes have always work for me . I own Toyotas v 6 4x4 ex cabs each runing strong with 185,000

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could have confirmed the light on start up to see if it lit up.

Yes the oil warning light lights up when starting up the truck.

I check with my mechanic he tells me that Synthetic oil is magnetize & will stay up top cling to all possibly tricking the oil warning light even with dangerously low oil levels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the oil warning light lights up when starting up the truck.

I check with my mechanic he tells me that Synthetic oil is magnetize & will stay up top cling to all possibly tricking the oil warning light even with dangerously low oil levels.

which oil light? The little oil can with drips coming out the spout or the oil can with wavy lines underneath it?

I question your mechanics reasoning on this one. Oil is not magnetized.

steviej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I start my truck the little oil can with drips coming out the spout with the wavy lines underneath light up

My mechanic speaks with a heavy accent . It is more likely I misquoted him .

I believe what he was trying to tell me was that Synthetic oil acts as if it is magnetized by clinging & staying up top & does not go to the bottom of the oil pan as quickly as conventional oil would.

So possibly the low oil light might not come on for that reason.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check your dipstick again. maybe you needed more than 2 quarts.

Since synthetic flows more freely than conventional, I would expect just the opposite. I would expect the synthetic to make it back to the pan quicker.

steviej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my experience, the light will come on when the oil level gets to the low mark on the dipstick and it probably takes around 1 1/2 quarts to get it back up to the full line. When the light comes on (assuming its due to low oil) in reality you only have to add a little to get the light to go off. It's pretty common for these vehicles to use some oil. Mine goes through about a quart about every 3000 miles. I've seen posted where some of these use a quart every 1000 to 1500 miles, and doesn't seem to be a cause for over concern, although I think that seems a bit high. If your using a lot of oil, check/replace the PVC valve. It's about a $4 part and if it's not funtioning properly, significant amounts of oil can be sucked into the intake which is not a good thing.

Rookie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just had the LX tuned up by my mechanic replace the following .All parts meet OE spec.

Spark Plugs (6) Ignition Wires Set PCV Valve Distributor Cap Distributor Rotor Button Fuel Filter Air Filter .

He also change 2 drive belts 1 AC belt + 2 small hoses that sit up on top that had cracks .Also added 2 qts oil at my cost of $240 + tip. Which I believe to be a very good price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My mechanic speaks with a heavy accent . It is more likely I misquoted him .

I believe what he was trying to tell me was that Synthetic oil acts as if it is magnetized by clinging & staying up top & does not go to the bottom of the oil pan as quickly as conventional oil would.

Due to ester levels in synthetic, it is designed to "stick to metal"; that is a good thing. But even though it "sticks" (as steve stated) it will flow much better/faster/easier then dino at lower temps.

In theory if both oils have the same cP, then both should get that in the same time. But that does not happen since both oils are diff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
mburn,

Are you still using Amsoil ASL 5W 30 or have you switched to the Amsoil HD diesel in your ES?

:cheers:

No on the ASL. I do use their Series 3000 diesel oil in my Kubota tractor and was thinking about trying there new DEO oil. ASL always went up a grade for me in my ES; but, now I am told the basestock is fixed and this will not happen.

I am using in my ES and wifes car, do not laugh, Chinamart 5w30 and LC20. I am trying this to see the outcome since LC20 made a HUGE difference (unreal) in my last oil test with Amsoil. Dyson analysis said this is normal for LC. Going to see how it does with a group 2 oil (with LC20). If it does the same as Amsoil ASL (nothing else added) I am staying with chinafart oil and LC.

I might try there Ea oil filter since per some people and oil testing people it is the best full flow filter out there. Problem is the price; $13 per filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mburn,

Are you still using Amsoil ASL 5W 30 or have you switched to the Amsoil HD diesel in your ES?

:cheers:

No on the ASL. I do use their Series 3000 diesel oil in my Kubota tractor and was thinking about trying there new DEO oil. ASL always went up a grade for me in my ES; but, now I am told the basestock is fixed and this will not happen.

I am using in my ES and wifes car, do not laugh, Chinamart 5w30 and LC20. I am trying this to see the outcome since LC20 made a HUGE difference (unreal) in my last oil test with Amsoil. Dyson analysis said this is normal for LC. Going to see how it does with a group 2 oil (with LC20). If it does the same as Amsoil ASL (nothing else added) I am staying with chinafart oil and LC.

I might try there Ea oil filter since per some people and oil testing people it is the best full flow filter out there. Problem is the price; $13 per filter.

Interesting findings :huh:

As for the Ea oil filter (their Ea air filter is excellent too btw) I am able to get them for the same price as a K & N or M1 oil filter here (granted it is smaller than the ES filter).

:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for the Ea oil filter (their Ea air filter is excellent too btw) I am able to get them for the same price as a K & N or M1 oil filter here (granted it is smaller than the ES filter).

:cheers:

I will let you know how the dino oil does. About 50% done on a drain. Also using ST filter's since I ran out of Wix's. I had VERY good luck with Amsoil but I really like to see how the LC does since if it give me the same outcome, but cheaper price, that is what I want.

As much as I would like to use there air filter, I had bad luck with it in my diesel. I killed to many sensors with oil glazzed filters. Back to paper.

I might have to try there oil ftilers but need to get the dealer price from family dealers. I am putting on less and less miles so it becomes hard to justify the higher price for oil with less(er) miles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • 1 month later...

In regards to two things brought up throughout this discussion. One being the oil light. As "idiot" lights go (thats just what they're called in casual conversation, not a comment on anyone :) ) I was under the impression they worked on oil pressure readings not actual oil levels. You can be low on oil but still have sufficient pressure to keep the sensor from alerting the engine manegement system. If the pressure gets low you're really in trouble and the light goes on.

Second, I don't believe any Lexus should use a quart of oil between changes. I've got 100k on an RX and I don't lose any perceptable amount between changes. That doenst mean its a crisis or anything but that just seems odd to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In regards to two things brought up throughout this discussion. One being the oil light. As "idiot" lights go (thats just what they're called in casual conversation, not a comment on anyone :) ) I was under the impression they worked on oil pressure readings not actual oil levels. You can be low on oil but still have sufficient pressure to keep the sensor from alerting the engine manegement system. If the pressure gets low you're really in trouble and the light goes on.

Second, I don't believe any Lexus should use a quart of oil between changes. I've got 100k on an RX and I don't lose any perceptable amount between changes. That doenst mean its a crisis or anything but that just seems odd to me.

god but oils are diff and burn diff. Some oils burn a lot and some not. Amosil burns like @ 6% and some are over 18%.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used synthetic blend for the first 90K miles on my Lexus and switched to full synthetic Mobil 1 at that mileage. I now have 133k miles on the car and still use no oil between changes. My experience has been that 3k to 4k oil changes and a good engine will generally not use oil. I had a mercedes 190E that used no oil at 155k miles after I rebuilt the engine at 101k miles because of poor maintenance. (I purchased vehicle with 99k miles on engine) Oil useage can be at the rings, valve stem seals, and leaks. If any of these components are out of speck you will use oil. I have a new ford f150 that uses oil and I suspect Ford does a lousy job on manufacturing the 5.4 liter engine. So there be it. When the manufacturor tells you engines use some oil that is a cover for poor design. Piston rings and valve stem seals are made of the latest materials unlike our fore fathers had in their cars. You should not use a quart of oil between changes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[god but oils are diff and burn diff. Some oils burn a lot and some not. Amosil burns like @ 6% and some are over 18%.

True. Thats a variable I hadn't considered, I was just looking at NOACK ratings on the amsoil site and I can see the differences.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[god but oils are diff and burn diff. Some oils burn a lot and some not. Amosil burns like @ 6% and some are over 18%.

True. Thats a variable I hadn't considered, I was just looking at NOACK ratings on the amsoil site and I can see the differences.

That is a good place to start. Mobil is a little higher so most users say it burns more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mobil is over-rated. Kendall FTW. Expensive but oil analysis has proven this oil.

I agree Mobil is over rated but Mobil is the top dog in marketing and the customers eyes. Anywhere you go they are there.

Kendall is not bad but it is an average oil. I would take Havoline over it. More Moly and a better ZDDP package. That being stated, Mobil 1 (not 5000, 7500 etc) would/does excel above all three noted. Unless UOA say otherwise which you aare going and is great!

For price, I would take either Havoline (moly madness bigtime) or Walmart full syn (group 3) over any and work just fine; hell of a good deal for Havoline at $1.98 qt or Walmart Full syn @ 2.75 qt . Plus either one could go 7,500 no problem. I am stepping away from Mobil and Amsoil since stopping my miles per year gone WAY done; along with other ways.

Then again keep up the UOA man. That is cool and many do not do this powerful tool!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership