Stinky Air Conditioning

[82DMC12]

Hi group,

I have a 1994 Lexus ES300. A year ago I replaced the expansion valve on the evaporator core under the dash. Not long after that I began having a foul odor coming from my A/C. I think I must have disturbed some mold or something under there. I know my A/C drain isn't plugged because it always leaves copious amounts of water under the car whenever I am idling with the A/C on.

I have tried using a product called PureAir from Checker Auto, as well as spraying lysol down the air intake duct. It only works for a short time before the odor is back. I have also ran hot water through the vent and out the drain to no effect.

What else should I do? I was thinking mixing up some bleach and hot water and pouring it down there but I am afraid of what it might do to things that aren't mold, as well as leaking onto my carpets.

Andy

[anthonyiez]

good luck, these odors are caused buy mold and bacteria and are very hard to remove. there used to a product called ozinizer (sp?) that worked pretty good.

[bartkat]

Mold grows on the evaporator core. Simply pouring stuff in the intake vents won't clean that out.

I used a foaming cleaner that you put directly into the plenum. The material foams up and cleans the entire core and then runs out the condensate drain. It worked for my IS and it ought to work for any A/C system.

http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.m...ode=48N-Cleaner

[wwest]

Hi group,

I have a 1994 Lexus ES300. A year ago I replaced the expansion valve on the evaporator core under the dash. Not long after that I began having a foul odor coming from my A/C. I think I must have disturbed some mold or something under there. I know my A/C drain isn't plugged because it always leaves copious amounts of water under the car whenever I am idling with the A/C on.

I have tried using a product called PureAir from Checker Auto, as well as spraying lysol down the air intake duct. It only works for a short time before the odor is back. I have also ran hot water through the vent and out the drain to no effect.

What else should I do? I was thinking mixing up some bleach and hot water and pouring it down there but I am afraid of what it might do to things that aren't mold, as well as leaking onto my carpets.

Andy

Leaving the windows open at night in the garage helped, tremendously, eliminate the odor from my new 1992 LS400 back when. It also helps to prevent those early morning episodes of windshield fogging over.

The issue is fairly well documented at airsept.com regarding their EED, Electronic Evaporator Dryer, device.

[rayder34]

have you changed your cabin air filter?

[backwoods lex]

What is the ac plenum? I feel a little dumb because I have no idea what that is.

[bartkat]

The plenum, for pratical purposes, is basically the heating and air conditioning ducts underneath the dashboard.

[Toysrme]

You must kill the mold. Once the mold has been killed, then install a filter.

Do not filter it before you kill the mold. breathing moldy air poses health risks, and installing a filter only masks the original problem. Which will continue to get worse.

There have been people talking aobut it all over the internet. From special killers to dousing the blower & vent pickups with a can of Lysol. There are ways to do it.

[mburnickas]

When i had my Older Powerstroke Diesel I had an issue. I tried the Lysol and it worked for like 1 month. To prevent it shut off AC (but leave fan going) about 2 to 5 miles before shutting car off. Use external air. This will help big time.

What I do is once per year take an ozone machine from my house (size of shoe box) and put it in the car; the car is running with AC on 100%. Do this for about 15 minutes running ozone at MAX. I think it is like 2g/hr. It kills mold spores, mildew, bacteria, etc. Heck, you can smoke a cigar in the car and then 20 minutes later the smell is gone.

The sell machines for detail shops online; but they are not cheap >$500.

[greasemonkey]

When i had my Older Powerstroke Diesel I had an issue. I tried the Lysol and it worked for like 1 month. To prevent it shut off AC (but leave fan going) about 2 to 5 miles before shutting car off. Use external air. This will help big time.

What I do is once per year take an ozone machine from my house (size of shoe box) and put it in the car; the car is running with AC on 100%. Do this for about 15 minutes running ozone at MAX. I think it is like 2g/hr. It kills mold spores, mildew, bacteria, etc. Heck, you can smoke a cigar in the car and then 20 minutes later the smell is gone.

The sell machines for detail shops online; but they are not cheap >$500.

I have a strange problem with my 92 es. I thought the heater core was leaking because i get a steam bath in the car. But that didn't help. I checked the drain hose and that was clear. The only we can use the car is to run with the air on. That seems to be a waste of gas. The other option is to unplug the air. That clears everything up. Any ideas? Could the evap be too dirty?

[Scrub Hunter]

When i had my Older Powerstroke Diesel I had an issue. I tried the Lysol and it worked for like 1 month. To prevent it shut off AC (but leave fan going) about 2 to 5 miles before shutting car off. Use external air. This will help big time.

What I do is once per year take an ozone machine from my house (size of shoe box) and put it in the car; the car is running with AC on 100%. Do this for about 15 minutes running ozone at MAX. I think it is like 2g/hr. It kills mold spores, mildew, bacteria, etc. Heck, you can smoke a cigar in the car and then 20 minutes later the smell is gone.

The sell machines for detail shops online; but they are not cheap >$500.

None of this will solve the issue. Your evap is most likely blocked, and simply needs to be cleaned. For vents you need a 4000 MG per hour to kill the bacteria. Furthermore, for you to get the vents you will need to make a manifold to shoot the ozone directly into the vents, and it should be on a timer so you don't go near it for 30 minutes after it's done. When you get into 6000 miligram per hour machines you start having problems with the machine damaging the internal parts on a car, but 4000 seams to be the perfect combination of killing but keeping the car from being damaged. Anyway, unclog the evap, 99% of the time that's your problem, and when it's unclogged you don't even have to spray anything in there, the SMELL WILL GO AWAY ON IT'S OWN. If you want you can spray some lysol down there but it's not necessary. If your evap becomes a problem it could be because of it's location. I have actually had to move the evap on some cars from the side to the bottom to prevent gathering of moisture. Good luck with it.....

[mburnickas]

Problem was not the evap blocked; when you shut down the ac there is water/condensation in the sys. You WANT to dry the water out before stopping the car. If not, the water will collect and get mold etc. That most times is what you smell and nothing major.

Thanks for the info but the ozone machined worked to kill the mold/bacteria. I also do not get when you stated you need a manifold to get into vents. If makes not sense since this huge ammount of O3 will get into the vents since most O3 units are made for homes/business, not a 50 sq/ft car.

In this short duration of time, 30 minutes you will not hurt anything if you want up to 10,000 MG. If you did it day in/out yes, short duration of time, no. Damage will be brittle plastic and discoloration; but again, this would take years at the level and 24/7 I would also wonder why anyone would even think to use something that big in a car. You only need something about 100 to 200 MG in a car envir.

[greasemonkey]

Problem was not the evap blocked; when you shut down the ac there is water/condensation in the sys. You WANT to dry the water out before stopping the car. If not, the water will collect and get mold etc. That most times is what you smell and nothing major.

Thanks for the info but the ozone machined worked to kill the mold/bacteria. I also do not get when you stated you need a manifold to get into vents. If makes not sense since this huge ammount of O3 will get into the vents since most O3 units are made for homes/business, not a 50 sq/ft car.

In this short duration of time, 30 minutes you will not hurt anything if you want up to 10,000 MG. If you did it day in/out yes, short duration of time, no. Damage will be brittle plastic and discoloration; but again, this would take years at the level and 24/7 I would also wonder why anyone would even think to use something that big in a car. You only need something about 100 to 200 MG in a car envir.

I believe what you say about the evap not drying off. everything seems to be ok. The smell is not bad either.

The problem may be in the automatic heat / cool system. Whenever you have it in automatic the air con is running. My daughter uses the car and doesn't bother to turn it off. So the air is on even in the winter cold weather with the heater running. I unplugged the comp and the problem goes away. Will this hurt to leave the comp disconnected till the need for air> Maybe 2-3 months. Or is there a way to turn off the automatic mode. I believe it will improve gas milage too. Thanks

[Scrub Hunter]

Problem was not the evap blocked; when you shut down the ac there is water/condensation in the sys. You WANT to dry the water out before stopping the car. If not, the water will collect and get mold etc. That most times is what you smell and nothing major.

Thanks for the info but the ozone machined worked to kill the mold/bacteria. I also do not get when you stated you need a manifold to get into vents. If makes not sense since this huge ammount of O3 will get into the vents since most O3 units are made for homes/business, not a 50 sq/ft car.

In this short duration of time, 30 minutes you will not hurt anything if you want up to 10,000 MG. If you did it day in/out yes, short duration of time, no. Damage will be brittle plastic and discoloration; but again, this would take years at the level and 24/7 I would also wonder why anyone would even think to use something that big in a car. You only need something about 100 to 200 MG in a car envir.

Listem Bro,

The problem with these is a layer of water that sits in the condensor. Ozone will not get this as a permanant solution regardless of how strong it is. Even if it gets it for a while it will come back if the drain plug is clogged or it has a poor design. You are 100% wrong about the ozone generators, in fact I'd bet money you never tried using a 10000mg unit yourself. I have used 2000, 4000, 6000, and a 20,000 mg unit before. I have also dked around with lesser machines and they don't do anything compared to these machines. 100 to 200 mg an hour in a car will do nothing past slightly refreshing the air. Don't try to win a pizzing contest when you simply don't know what your talking about. This poor guy might go spend 500 plus dollars on an ozone machine when that is not the right thing for this application. Ozone gererators in auto repair are mostly for cabin issues, and should be used after the interior has been cleaned extensively and dried. They will work in vents but yiou need a manifold to be effective.

[wwest]

I have always unplugged my AC compressor clutch during the winter months, all the way back to the first car with AC I had, a 67 Mustang. The only thing its good for other than cooling is dehumidification and thereby help with keeping the windshield from fogging.

Since we cannot predict nor detect when that will be effective it is always best to rely on HEAT for defogging.

The 01 and later RX300s have two c-best options, one so you can disable the AC indefinitely, and the second to unling it from operating automatically in defrost/defog/demist mode. That little green car to your left has a switch within the center console glove box that opens the AC compressor clutch circuit.

[mburnickas]

Listem Bro,

The problem with these is a layer of water that sits in the condensor. Ozone will not get this as a permanant solution regardless of how strong it is. Even if it gets it for a while it will come back if the drain plug is clogged or it has a poor design. You are 100% wrong about the ozone generators, in fact I'd bet money you never tried using a 10000mg unit yourself. I have used 2000, 4000, 6000, and a 20,000 mg unit before. I have also dked around with lesser machines and they don't do anything compared to these machines. 100 to 200 mg an hour in a car will do nothing past slightly refreshing the air. Don't try to win a pizzing contest when you simply don't know what your talking about. This poor guy might go spend 500 plus dollars on an ozone machine when that is not the right thing for this application. Ozone gererators in auto repair are mostly for cabin issues, and should be used after the interior has been cleaned extensively and dried. They will work in vents but yiou need a manifold to be effective.

Funny it has never come back. ........... But ha if it works for ya. I go by what works in detail shops and car dealerships. Plus I like to use multi-tasker tools. Not going to go buy another single event tool. Foolish.... plus these machines are not needed and way to dangerious.

Ps. What is with the bro everything.

I believe what you say about the evap not drying off. everything seems to be ok. The smell is not bad either.

The problem may be in the automatic heat / cool system. Whenever you have it in automatic the air con is running. My daughter uses the car and doesn't bother to turn it off. So the air is on even in the winter cold weather with the heater running. I unplugged the comp and the problem goes away. Will this hurt to leave the comp disconnected till the need for air> Maybe 2-3 months. Or is there a way to turn off the automatic mode. I believe it will improve gas milage too. Thanks

I almost never use auto. It is always off in my car.If auto is on, I just hit the "vent" button (floor or dash) and it turns auto off. And yes, auto will hurt mpg since it is like running AC 100% The turning off AC "a few mile before stopping" (noted last page) trick was from whe I had my diesel truck. I thought it was something major (was not) and about a billion other diesel people had the samething

[greasemonkey]

I have always unplugged my AC compressor clutch during the winter months, all the way back to the first car with AC I had, a 67 Mustang. The only thing its good for other than cooling is dehumidification and thereby help with keeping the windshield from fogging.

Since we cannot predict nor detect when that will be effective it is always best to rely on HEAT for defogging.

The 01 and later RX300s have two c-best options, one so you can disable the AC indefinitely, and the second to unling it from operating automatically in defrost/defog/demist mode. That little green car to your left has a switch within the center console glove box that opens the AC compressor clutch circuit.

;)

Hey I hear you. I see no big advantage to having the air on durring defrost. The old fashioned way works fine. Is there a way to eliminate it from the auto mode on an 92 es 300 ? lso I have seen posts that not running thr comp for a month or more can hurt the compresor? Thanks

[wwest]

I have always unplugged my AC compressor clutch during the winter months, all the way back to the first car with AC I had, a 67 Mustang. The only thing its good for other than cooling is dehumidification and thereby help with keeping the windshield from fogging.

Since we cannot predict nor detect when that will be effective it is always best to rely on HEAT for defogging.

The 01 and later RX300s have two c-best options, one so you can disable the AC indefinitely, and the second to unling it from operating automatically in defrost/defog/demist mode. That little green car to your left has a switch within the center console glove box that opens the AC compressor clutch circuit.

;)

Hey I hear you. I see no big advantage to having the air on durring defrost. The old fashioned way works fine. Is there a way to eliminate it from the auto mode on an 92 es 300 ? lso I have seen posts that not running thr comp for a month or more can hurt the compresor? Thanks

On my 92 LS400 I added a 2700 ohm resistor in series with the OAT sensor so that below about 45F the ECU "thought" the OAT was below freezing and disabled the AC compressor entirely. I also have a switch mounted near my left knee that adds a small resistance, 200 ohms, to the cabin temperature sensor. Just before engaging the defrost/defog/demist function I flip the switch, the ECU "thinks" the cabin has just gotten COLD resulting in a HIGH volume of HOT airflow to the windshield.

[greasemonkey]

I have always unplugged my AC compressor clutch during the winter months, all the way back to the first car with AC I had, a 67 Mustang. The only thing its good for other than cooling is dehumidification and thereby help with keeping the windshield from fogging.

Since we cannot predict nor detect when that will be effective it is always best to rely on HEAT for defogging.

The 01 and later RX300s have two c-best options, one so you can disable the AC indefinitely, and the second to unling it from operating automatically in defrost/defog/demist mode. That little green car to your left has a switch within the center console glove box that opens the AC compressor clutch circuit.

;)

Hey I hear you. I see no big advantage to having the air on durring defrost. The old fashioned way works fine. Is there a way to eliminate it from the auto mode on an 92 es 300 ? lso I have seen posts that not running thr comp for a month or more can hurt the compresor? Thanks

On my 92 LS400 I added a 2700 ohm resistor in series with the OAT sensor so that below about 45F the ECU "thought" the OAT was below freezing and disabled the AC compressor entirely. I also have a switch mounted near my left knee that adds a small resistance, 200 ohms, to the cabin temperature sensor. Just before engaging the defrost/defog/demist function I flip the switch, the ECU "thinks" the cabin has just gotten COLD resulting in a HIGH volume of HOT airflow to the windshield.

:(

sounds lke you know your stuff. Way over my head. I think I'll just unplug the comp for now. Thanks

[Scrub Hunter]

Hey Bro, there is a recall that came out in the beggining of last year on the air conditioning sensor. It's cool that Lexus recalls a 94 in the very end of 2004 if there's a problem. Anyhow, might want to run it by the dealer.

[92Lex]

Why would the A/C "senor" cause such a horrific smell? Sounds like mildew to me.